erudite

I've recently torn down my hubs to rebuild them and being a novice I didn't note how much thread should be exposed each side of the lock nuts.

Is there a general rule of thumb or is it dependent on the hub itself?

Iride01 

Depends on how it fastens into the bike frame. Shall we guess what you have?

erudite

They're fastened using quick release skewers.

Do you need any more information? Apologies for my lack of clarity it's my first time stripping down a bike and so I'm not sure exactly what information is needed to give an accurate answer.

Iride01 

Just balance it out so about an equal amount is sticking out on either side of drop outs where the skewers clamp. You did keep track of the order the spacers and nuts went on didn't you?

2old

Do as indicated above. The most important aspect is to have enough threads (three or four?) to positively be engaged in the dropout, but not exceed its thickness. Usually the threads will encompass about 3/4 of the thickness of the dropout.

Andrew R Stewart 

As mentioned the axle end usually sits just "below flush" WRT the drop out's outer face. The QR skewer has a conical spring that takes up some space. While the QR skewer usually has a shallow recessed pocket to let the spring nestle into this isn't the case always. If the QR end cap bottoms out on the spring, because the axle is sticking too far through the drop out, the wheel won't be properly secured. Andy

davidad

About 5mm is normal.

erudite

​​​​​​Thank your for all your help, it really is appreciated.

You raise a very good point. I took this apart in a hurry back in the summer expecting to put it back together within a couple of days. Like an idiot I only left certain parts together in the order they came apart.
apart.

I've circled the parts I have that I am unsure of. Would it make sense that they fit to this side of this axle?

imgur .co m/a/YmH2V79 (excuse the spacing in the link, I can only post images or links once I hit 10 posts)

Andrew R Stewart 

See this current thread (right now only a few below in the que) that speaks to the what goes where. https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ara-mixte.html Andy

Iride01 

If your chain rubs the rear stay or dropout when you get it all back together, you'll know you futched up the spacers on the axle.

ramzilla

Well, first thing I do is make sure the exact same amount of threads & distance is sticking out on both sides. If you install a new longer axle you can wind up with too much length and skewers wont work. Or, too little length and wheel will not seat properly in dropouts. I've replaced & modified several rear hub axles. I'm not comfortable unless I got at least 4mm sticking out both sides. I like a wheel that is firmly attached inside the brackets. (You'll find out why this is so important when you climb out of the seat to pedal up a really steep hill).

cyccommute 

5mm is pretty close.

It’s too late now but when you repack the bearings, only take one side of the axle apart. You don’t need to remove the cones from both sides and, as you are finding, it makes you life harder to do so. The only reason to remove cones and locknuts is if you need to replace the axle.

If you are working on the rear wheel, work only on the nondrive side, i.e. left side of the wheel.

To put your axle back together, thread the axle, any spacers, and the lock nut onto one side. Measure about 5mm from the end to the axle to the locknut. Tighten the locknut down. After you put the bearings back, slide the axle through and assemble the other side. Adjust the bearings so that they roll freely and don’t have play, then measure the distance from the end of the axle to the locknut on the side you just put together. The two sides should be the same distance from the end of the axle to the locknut within about 0.5mm. If they aren’t, loosen both sides and recenter the axle.

Before you do the final adjustment, put the wheel in the frame without the skewer and ensure that the axle doesn’t go past the frame on either side. If it does recenter. If it doesn’t, finish the adjustment on the bearings.

HillRider

The general rule for quick release axles is that they are 11 mm (sometimes 10 mm) longer than the hub's over-locknut dimension (OLD). So, for a common 100 mm OLD front hub the axle is 111 mm, for a 130 mm OLD rear hub the axle is 141 mm, etc. That means the axle protrudes 5.5 mm from each locknut.

erudite

Point noted, I'll make sure to remember this in future. I often fall foul of thinking only after I've started work on something.

Many thanks for the clear instructions. I'm going to give it a go this afternoon.

erudite

Thank you Andy, I'll take a look.

erudite

Does the cone in the video attached look worn enough to warrant replacing it or does it look like it has plenty of life left in it?

I've replaced 3 out of 4 cones and thought this one was ok. Upon cleaning, it has a score mark in one place (shown in thevideo) and has been slightly smoothed by the bearings.

Video: https://imgur.com/a/kTVcq6y

Andrew R Stewart 

The imaged cone is pretty well "used" and likely could have benefited from more frequent overhauls. If the cone is easily available I would replace it. If not then just reuse it and set the bearing a BCH loose after the QR is tightened. Andy