JaccoW

After playing around in the garden today I decided tonight was a good night to do something about the rear wheel on the SilverAce. The spokes were ever so slightly too long (spoke calculators and large hubs don't work all that well together).

I thought that maybe a nipple washer like Sapim HM nipple washers would help to slightly recess the nipples and tighten up the wheel a bit.
It worked, really well even.

Though I cannot recommend undoing spoke nipples from a medium-profile rim, putting a washer on and then putting them back in. 36 times. I think I've built wheels in less time.

Earlier picture of the wheel:

BFisher

Big changes happening to my Super Course. Going 3x7 indexed rear, friction front. I drilled and tapped the bottom bracket for an underneath cable guide in order to run the FD today. Have a cartridge BB unit and alloy seatpost on order. Respaced and redished the wheel yesterday, and somehow rounded out a spoke nipple in the process. 1 out of 36, I blame the nipple. Quick pic:

rossiny

yup, I feel that way and never laced a wheel

J.Higgins 

Its the silver Logo Evo model, Russ. I'll also be adding a front rack, but I haven't decided which one yet.

Kdogbikes

taking some time on this neglected bike. Looks ok in pics but deep corrosion throughout.

52telecaster

i have the tara on front of my bob with a fly on the back. Very little weight penalty for carrying 4 bags now and then. Incredibly solid as well.

JaccoW

Light-bracket bending. It was either too far outwards or too far inwards to be safely mounted so I clamped it into a vise with some tape to bend it into shape.



Before:



After:

gomango

I put the fenders back on my Monstercross.

It snowed here again yesterday and the ride was messy.

An old pic, but you get the idea.



Black Mountain Monstercross

zjrog

Worked on my 97 Cannondale R300 CAAD2. Needed a new BB and headset. The bike isn't pristine but clean and solid. Mostly using what is on hand. Swapping up from 3x7 to 3x9.

rocks in head 

My current project is stripping and cleaning the Guerciotti. It's a 54cm 1984 GL 7300 in pretty rough shape. Discovered the pads are worn past the wear markers and the seatpost is stuck. Soaking in penetrant currently it'll get clamped in the bench vise in a few days, using the entire frame as a lever. If it's too recalcitrant, it'll go on CL as "seatpost pre-adjusted to perfect height for new owner". All the cables and bar tape have gone right into the bin. Yellow cables, bar wrap, and bottle cage coming, after seeing Hazetguy's 85 Trek 660 on the for sale forum.

2cam16

Not CV but an '01. Sorry, the projects list is thin nowadays.
Running out of projects but this was on the to-do list anyway. Since I can't go shred, it was time to rebuild the shredder:
IMG_2543 by 2cam16, on Flickr
IMG_2489 by 2cam16, on Flickr
IMG_2490 by 2cam16, on Flickr

Blightybiker

The rear wheel on my Raleigh Grand Prix is grossly out of true. I've tried a bit of spoke-wrenching around but am aware of my lack of expertise. Basically, I have been using intuition but I have just about made the bike safely ride-able I hope).

Is there a good thread here, or an alternative website, that can be recommended as a tutorial for a newbie?

I know it's a skilled job but don't know how much I can trust my $$$ to any of the local bike shops..... Some might be good, but I just don't know.

Mad Honk 

Blightybiker,
Contact me by PM and I will help you via e-mail. Smiles, MH

SurferRosa

Step right up!
​​​​​​
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

That's basically all you need to build your own wheels and keep them properly tensioned and trued. Bent rims are another matter.

noglider 

@rocks in head, I can't see your picture. Try opening up the world's permission to view it.

rocks in head 

Replaced with attachment, rather than pasted image... try now?

Here's a few more from seatpost adventures. Took a while!

natterberry 

Tear down of this beauty. Only having trouble with the fixed cup. Mask comes today, trip to the hardware store afterward.

Thanks to Mad Honk

Paging Sprocket Turner

noglider 

@rocks in head, well done! I especially like the nutdrivers-in-seatpost trick and hope to remember it if I ever need it.

Blightybiker

Thanks for your help. Curiously enough, I discovered it myself, too. It's excellent.
I was inspired to do a bit more spoke-twiddling this morning and (I know I'm tempting providence) within ten minutes or so I had really improved how true the wheel was running !

Thanks again!

JaccoW

Tapped some threads in a stainless steel rack strut to make a nearly invisible cable guide for the rear light. Worked pretty well.

70sSanO

This has been hub, gear, wheel month, or two...three... I was out riding on a sedate trail with my '92 Serotta T-Max when my freehub decided that it had had enough. Luckily it was an easy 2 mile walk back. It has DX-650 hubs and I decided to try an XT-732 freehub body. Didn't fit correctly. Pulled the correct one off an MT-62 hub and I'm back in business. Of course I had to buy a backup MT-62 freehub. But this got me going on wheel/gearing stuff.

For a few years I have been wanting to do a miamijim DA 7700 126mm cassette build to run an 8 speed 12-34 cassette on my '88 Cannondale. I'm running a 13-32 Sachs freewheel on Superbe Pro Hubs and I rarely go into the 13t these days, so I'm thinking the 12t will never be used. Long since removed from a weight weenie, I pull off the titanium DA freehub body and slapped on the XT-732 body and it fits perfectly. Since the XT-732 is UG/HG I'm planning on using a threaded 14t UG for the 1st position and the 16-34 HG cogs for 2-7. I will either re-space the HG cogs to 7 speed and use with my current DA downtube shifters or slap on some Ultegra 8 speed downtube shifters that I already have and run 7 gears spaced as 8.

From this I will probably move the Sachs freewheel onto an '86 Cannondale that I converted to a flatbar and run it as 12 or 13-32.

I'll probably hold off of this one... Those DX-650 hubs are laced to Mt. Titan rims, which are light but not great rims. I have some XT-737 hubs laced to Mavic 217's and I will probably take my DA 7700 titanium freehub body and put it on the XT-737 rear hub.

It's all fun.

John

Blightybiker

Thanks for your offer Mad Honk. I think I am OK now that I can see the Sheldon Brown site.

russtopherb

Just swapped 2 tires tonight, looks like I'm going to need to adjust my front derailleur as well after taking it out for a quick test spin. It's my fault for not keeping up on maintenance given how sparingly I've ridden the past few years.

Wildwood 

I finished the new assembly of an AD/Puch Vent Noir - formerly belonging to nesteel. It has been muchly complete for a while, but I stalled awaiting cycling season. Really only needed a chain and a few adjustments, but the last 2+ weeks have been about saddle time not wrenching time. And Life. About to go for maiden voyage (with a couple extra tools) to check der limit stops. The rest better be perfect. Except for Pat83 SR rear der, and chain, the rest was cobbled mostly from my box of Zeus extras - brakes/levers (new Zeus hoods), shifters, coupled with Stronglight 55/44 crank, Cinelli.


I know - don’t take photos in full sun. But, But, But....... Seattle

Cinelli bars & stem, Spanish re-pops are great

‘Take a pic of the gold chain, it won’t be gold long’

Mad Honk 

Tom,and Rocks in head,
That brush doesn't clean the inside of the seat tube very well. I have made a tool that does a great clean up that gets right down to the steel. I figure that I am going to slather a bunch of grease back in the tube before reassembling so likely no rust or corrosion. The tool is simple. This one is a six inch long 1/4" bolt with the head dremeled off and a slot cut into the bolt lengthwise about two inches deep. An extension for the drill, and a sheet of sand paper cut into two inch strips and wound around the bolt until the proper diameter is reached. Then use just like a power ream inside the seat tube. The picture is after cleaning a Raleigh out last week, so you can see the material it removes. If it clogs up just add more sand paper and go after it again. HTH, MH

tool and drill bit extension

the tool after cleaning the Raleigh

the method of winding the paper in the slot