"Green" cleaner for caked on grease?
#26
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This is an excellent post.
This can't be repeated enough in this thread.
There's a maxim "use the weakest chemical that will do the job." If you want to read between the lines here: use the weakest chemical that does the job using a reasonable amount of it [the chemical], doesn't waste a ton of your time, and isn't a nightmare to dispose of.
Do y'all know how you are supposed to dispose of Simple Green and all those other 'green' or 'natural' cleaners? You can't/shouldn't just pour it down a drain or into soil. Capture all of the used liquid (clean over a container), then pour it all out into an evaporation tray. Once the liquid evaporates off, you need to collect the remaining soil, and take it to a hazmat disposal, since it contains petroleum distillates. Compare this with using mineral spirits, for instance:
You clean over a container using a small amount of mineral spirits. Pour this suspension of crap into a jar, and allow the stuff to settle. Decant the mineral spirits off the top back into the container, or simply wait until you have a full jar, and use it until it no longer cleans effectively...which will be a far longer time than a water-based cleaner. Once it no longer works effectively for your purposes (oil in the mixture will become a larger and larger part), bring the jar to be disposed of at a hazmat site (some auto shops accept these...).
Considering that you need to work in a well-ventilated space, it's a small trade-off to have a superior tool for the job.
There's a maxim "use the weakest chemical that will do the job." If you want to read between the lines here: use the weakest chemical that does the job using a reasonable amount of it [the chemical], doesn't waste a ton of your time, and isn't a nightmare to dispose of.
Do y'all know how you are supposed to dispose of Simple Green and all those other 'green' or 'natural' cleaners? You can't/shouldn't just pour it down a drain or into soil. Capture all of the used liquid (clean over a container), then pour it all out into an evaporation tray. Once the liquid evaporates off, you need to collect the remaining soil, and take it to a hazmat disposal, since it contains petroleum distillates. Compare this with using mineral spirits, for instance:
You clean over a container using a small amount of mineral spirits. Pour this suspension of crap into a jar, and allow the stuff to settle. Decant the mineral spirits off the top back into the container, or simply wait until you have a full jar, and use it until it no longer cleans effectively...which will be a far longer time than a water-based cleaner. Once it no longer works effectively for your purposes (oil in the mixture will become a larger and larger part), bring the jar to be disposed of at a hazmat site (some auto shops accept these...).
Considering that you need to work in a well-ventilated space, it's a small trade-off to have a superior tool for the job.
#27
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The best way to remove caked on grease is not to allow it to get that way to begin with. Spend a few minutes after every ride to wipe down the drivetrain and your bike in general. Never allow grit to accumulate on your cogs/ring/chain because it acts like sandpaper on your components. Ever notice after a wet ride how "gritty" your drivetrain sounds when turning the cranks slowly? You can just hear the grit as the chain travels over your rings and cogs. My advice is to go ahead and do the degrease then spend a few minutes in upkeep after your rides. It saves a lot of time and headaches later. It's much easier if you are able to remove the chain, which is why I use stainless Connex chains with the Connex quick link on all my bikes. The quick link is designed to be removed by hand and does not wear, which means the link does not have to be replaced after repeated use. With the chain removed you can wipe it down in addition to your rings, jockey wheels, and floss the cassette very easily. The only time I have ever used any degreaser was to soak my chain maybe once or twice a year.
#28
Senior Member
Stoddard solvent. Take your bike parts to your local car repair shop and ask them if you can use their parts cleaner. This looks like a sink which sits on top of a metal drum, it has a spigot with a hose, and usually a few brushes. The solvent will clean the grease off completely, the grease and metal particles are captured, and the solvent is recycled by "Safety Kleen" or whoever the garage uses to provide the cleaner. The solvent is safe enough that you don't need gloves, and can be used to clean grease and oil off your hands. Stoddard solvent is also popular with dry cleaners who use it for laundry.
#32
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If all you're cleaning is the chain and cassette. An ultrasonic clean that is large enough for your chainset is pretty pricey. And if you're trying to clean that gunk behind the derailleur mounting bolt the gear floss works much better than trying to immerse the hanger in an ultrasonic cleaner.
#34
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Given that riveted chains with master links are pretty much Standard Practice these days, there's no reason not to remove the chain for cleaning.
#35
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Please back up this bold statement. A while back, at the shop, we bought some 'organic' greases, presumably based on plant oils. They were useless, as the oils separated out quickly, and the tins started to emit a foul odor, presumably due to organics decomposition. So like most 'green' bike products, they were overpriced and inferior.
And in theory, thinking as a chemist (which I am) petroleum-based oils and greases make total sense simply from a performance basis.
And in theory, thinking as a chemist (which I am) petroleum-based oils and greases make total sense simply from a performance basis.
Last edited by Dave Mayer; 01-12-19 at 09:01 AM.
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Please back up this bold statement. A while back, at the shop, we bought some 'organic' greases, presumably based on plant oils. They were useless, as the oils separated out quickly, and the tins started to emit a foul odor, presumably due to organics decomposition. So like most 'green' bike products, they were overpriced and inferior.
And in theory, thinking as a chemist (which I am) petroleum-based oils and greases make total sense simply from a performance basis.
And in theory, thinking as a chemist (which I am) petroleum-based oils and greases make total sense simply from a performance basis.
My comment was intended to be, avoid the petroleum based oils. Use a wax lube (which is still petroleum based) to avoid the caked on grease, requiring the chemicals to remove.
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It's not terribly toxic but don't handle it without some type of resistant gloves and avoid inhaling the fumes.