Recommendations: Modern MTB for Touring?
09-10-14, 09:24 PM
#26
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I'd keep the pieces to 3 or 4 on the flyrods. Just don't like too many joints, not even sure who makes a serious 8 piece flyrod. Normally a 4 piece will tie in with your tent, but it depends how long it is I guess.
Googled, and in a thread where a guy was being told not to get more than 4 pieces, someone mentioned Orvis makes a 7 piece, so I guess you could get one.
Googled, and in a thread where a guy was being told not to get more than 4 pieces, someone mentioned Orvis makes a 7 piece, so I guess you could get one.
09-11-14, 10:39 AM
#27
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I should've known that "suspension vs rigid" was yet another flame-war in the bike communities 
I think the only way to know if I need suspension is to put some low-pressure tires on my cross bike, and do a trail. If I can't hack it, I'll benefit from suspension.
That said, I'm still not clear on one point. What is the likely difference between the steel cross bike, and something like the Fargo or other tour-oriented MTB?
I think the only way to know if I need suspension is to put some low-pressure tires on my cross bike, and do a trail. If I can't hack it, I'll benefit from suspension.
That said, I'm still not clear on one point. What is the likely difference between the steel cross bike, and something like the Fargo or other tour-oriented MTB?
09-11-14, 11:18 AM
#28
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A suspension seat post like Cane Creek's is nice .. to suspend just your butt.
the mass in 4 panniers is an effective dampener of a lot of smaller bumps..
Consider .. how will you field repair a suspension fork when it fails in the middle of nowhere..
the mass in 4 panniers is an effective dampener of a lot of smaller bumps..
Consider .. how will you field repair a suspension fork when it fails in the middle of nowhere..
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-11-14 at 11:23 AM.
09-11-14, 11:47 AM
#29
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I should've known that "suspension vs rigid" was yet another flame-war in the bike communities
I think the only way to know if I need suspension is to put some low-pressure tires on my cross bike, and do a trail. If I can't hack it, I'll benefit from suspension.
That said, I'm still not clear on one point. What is the likely difference between the steel cross bike, and something like the Fargo or other tour-oriented MTB?
I think the only way to know if I need suspension is to put some low-pressure tires on my cross bike, and do a trail. If I can't hack it, I'll benefit from suspension.
That said, I'm still not clear on one point. What is the likely difference between the steel cross bike, and something like the Fargo or other tour-oriented MTB?
09-11-14, 12:17 PM
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The MTB I tour on has nothing in common with a cross bike and I wouldn't take my cross bike anywhere near the trails I tour with it.
However, I find it works well for easier dirt/gravel touring and since I want to do both types of rides that style of bike made sense for me.
The Fargo is a bit of a cross between the two. I wouldn't buy one for technical MTB touring, but for dirt road touring and less demanding singletrack it would be a good choice.
You'll need to look at the geo charts and frame specs for the bikes you are interested in and compare them to highlight all the differences. As boring as it sounds [and it is boring] put all the key info in a spreadsheet for your top 3-5 bikes for easy comparison.
Last edited by vik; 09-11-14 at 12:33 PM.
09-11-14, 01:26 PM
#31
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If you will pardon my specificity...
Assuming both use the same tires, the comfort will be roughly the same. However, handling, control, clearance will be different. Suspension will increase comfort, a little bit of control, a little bit of performance, but will also make the bike heavier and more complex. Right?
Assuming both use the same tires, the comfort will be roughly the same. However, handling, control, clearance will be different. Suspension will increase comfort, a little bit of control, a little bit of performance, but will also make the bike heavier and more complex. Right?
09-11-14, 01:28 PM
#32
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I should've known that "suspension vs rigid" was yet another flame-war in the bike communities
I think the only way to know if I need suspension is to put some low-pressure tires on my cross bike, and do a trail. If I can't hack it, I'll benefit from suspension.
That said, I'm still not clear on one point. What is the likely difference between the steel cross bike, and something like the Fargo or other tour-oriented MTB?
I think the only way to know if I need suspension is to put some low-pressure tires on my cross bike, and do a trail. If I can't hack it, I'll benefit from suspension.
That said, I'm still not clear on one point. What is the likely difference between the steel cross bike, and something like the Fargo or other tour-oriented MTB?
Also, don't get hung up on the steel/aluminum thing. Aluminum mountain bikes are every bit as capable and every bit as rugged as steel. A steel mountain bike doesn't ride like a steel road bike. The frame is usually stronger so it's stiffer. And the terrain that you are riding makes any slight differences in the ride basically unnoticeable.
That said:
Tire clearance, BB height and steering geometry are some important differences. The other thing I'd look at is compatibility with a suspension fork if you think you might want one.
The MTB I tour on has nothing in common with a cross bike and I wouldn't take my cross bike anywhere near the trails I tour with it.
However, I find it works well for easier dirt/gravel touring and since I want to do both types of rides that style of bike made sense for me.
The Fargo is a bit of a cross between the two. I wouldn't buy one for technical MTB touring, but for dirt road touring and less demanding singletrack it would be a good choice.
You'll need to look at the geo charts and frame specs for the bikes you are interested in and compare them to highlight all the differences. As boring as it sounds [and it is boring] put all the key info in a spreadsheet for your top 3-5 bikes for easy comparison.
The MTB I tour on has nothing in common with a cross bike and I wouldn't take my cross bike anywhere near the trails I tour with it.
However, I find it works well for easier dirt/gravel touring and since I want to do both types of rides that style of bike made sense for me.
The Fargo is a bit of a cross between the two. I wouldn't buy one for technical MTB touring, but for dirt road touring and less demanding singletrack it would be a good choice.
You'll need to look at the geo charts and frame specs for the bikes you are interested in and compare them to highlight all the differences. As boring as it sounds [and it is boring] put all the key info in a spreadsheet for your top 3-5 bikes for easy comparison.
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09-11-14, 01:31 PM
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I'd keep the pieces to 3 or 4 on the flyrods. Just don't like too many joints, not even sure who makes a serious 8 piece flyrod. Normally a 4 piece will tie in with your tent, but it depends how long it is I guess.
Googled, and in a thread where a guy was being told not to get more than 4 pieces, someone mentioned Orvis makes a 7 piece, so I guess you could get one.
Googled, and in a thread where a guy was being told not to get more than 4 pieces, someone mentioned Orvis makes a 7 piece, so I guess you could get one.
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09-11-14, 03:32 PM
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I agree with pretty much everything you have to say here. About the only difference is that I probably wouldn't buy a Fargo for any purpose. A good hardtail mountain bike (or softtail like the YBB) will do everything that the Fargo does in all conditions so I don't really see the point of the Fargo. The adjustable dropouts are interesting but they're just another thing to worry about coming loose out in the middle of nowhere.
I don't think the dropouts are an issue. I tend to run IGHs and I'm building a SS 2nd wheelset for my touring MTB so some sort of chain tension mechanism is desirable.
I posted the Fargo link because the OP seemed to favour drop bars based on his initial post.
I agree a mountain bike can be quite versatile. I've been riding a rigid steel MTB for the past 2 seasons and it's great for both GDR style chill dirt tours and real singletrack mountain biking.
I think a Fargo style bike helps folks who want to get off the pavement and tour, but are avid drop bar riders find a rig that offers them some familiarity with added options for exploring dirt.
09-11-14, 03:45 PM
#35
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I'm with you there. I'm both brave and stupid but not that brave nor stupid!
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09-11-14, 03:48 PM
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A 6 piece rod I was looking at has sections that are 17" or 18" long and as a bonus costs 25% of my Sage rod. So it carries much easier and I'm less concerned about what happens to it when crash or a drag/carry/throw my bike around during bushwacking hike-a-bike moments.
The Orvis 7 piece rod is a tad shorter and priced between the Cabela's model and my Sage.
I've seen Tenkara rods that are around 20" long and even simpler so I may go that route.
My tent poles are ~18" so that's a convenient length to shoot for for my bikey fly rod.
09-11-14, 04:00 PM
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I have a 4 piece Sage rod and its sections are ~27" long which is long enough to get in the way when I carry it on my bike's front bag.
A 6 piece rod I was looking at has sections that are 17" or 18" long and as a bonus costs 25% of my Sage rod. So it carries much easier and I'm less concerned about what happens to it when crash or a drag/carry/throw my bike around during bushwacking hike-a-bike moments.
The Orvis 7 piece rod is a tad shorter and priced between the Cabela's model and my Sage.
I've seen Tenkara rods that are around 20" long and even simpler so I may go that route.
My tent poles are ~18" so that's a convenient length to shoot for for my bikey fly rod.
A 6 piece rod I was looking at has sections that are 17" or 18" long and as a bonus costs 25% of my Sage rod. So it carries much easier and I'm less concerned about what happens to it when crash or a drag/carry/throw my bike around during bushwacking hike-a-bike moments.
The Orvis 7 piece rod is a tad shorter and priced between the Cabela's model and my Sage.
I've seen Tenkara rods that are around 20" long and even simpler so I may go that route.
My tent poles are ~18" so that's a convenient length to shoot for for my bikey fly rod.
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
09-11-14, 04:28 PM
#38
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I'm sure you do fine with that rod. I'm continually lightening/streamlining my touring setup. The gold bag in the photo above contains my 18" tent poles and anything longer is a PITA.
I won't have a proper case or anything else like that around it. That sort of weight/bulk is just not in the cards.
I also spend a decent chunk of time not riding the bike, but carrying it, pushing it, dragging it or throwing it over/under/through obstacles.
At 18" it's well protected by my tent poles and bar bag. If it's closer to 30 there is lots to damage/snag and it's the delicate tips and connectors that are getting beat up.
09-11-14, 04:39 PM
#39
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I've just bought a telescopic spinning rod to take touring with me and I'm going to get a 7 or 8 piece fly rod next year so I understand the need to fish and ride.
If you want to ride on the beach get a fat bike no question. A Krampus or Ogre will stop rolling [with you on it] as soon as you hit sand. You might get away with some riding on really compacted sand, but that's not something I would count on.
So your real choice is 4" or 5" tires. You can make 4" tires work and they'd be better on the road, but 5" tires will let you ride more on the beach so you need to decide what's most important. Factor in how much you weigh and how much gear you'll have with you to determine if you need max floatation.
If you go 4" tires get Black Fyoyds or Larrys. They will roll well on pavement and sand. 4-8psi on the beach and 15-17psi on the road. A Pugs can rock 4" tires nicely.
If you go 5" tires get Big Fat Larrys. Similar pressures to above....a little less on the road pressure. A Pugs can fit 5" tires, but you may have some chain rub in the lowest gears. A Moonlander or the new Ice Cream Truck will swallow 5" rubber with no issues.
Have an awesome time. Tight lines!
If you want to ride on the beach get a fat bike no question. A Krampus or Ogre will stop rolling [with you on it] as soon as you hit sand. You might get away with some riding on really compacted sand, but that's not something I would count on.
So your real choice is 4" or 5" tires. You can make 4" tires work and they'd be better on the road, but 5" tires will let you ride more on the beach so you need to decide what's most important. Factor in how much you weigh and how much gear you'll have with you to determine if you need max floatation.
If you go 4" tires get Black Fyoyds or Larrys. They will roll well on pavement and sand. 4-8psi on the beach and 15-17psi on the road. A Pugs can rock 4" tires nicely.
If you go 5" tires get Big Fat Larrys. Similar pressures to above....a little less on the road pressure. A Pugs can fit 5" tires, but you may have some chain rub in the lowest gears. A Moonlander or the new Ice Cream Truck will swallow 5" rubber with no issues.
Have an awesome time. Tight lines!
09-12-14, 06:46 AM
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Or get a duel purpose rod... Eagle Claw Trailmaster Pack Rods
Unfortunately, I do not do any fly fishing. I am sure it is awesome fun but I've been spoiled by big pelagics off shore. The fishing I will do down the coast will mostly be salt/inshore but I will take no less than 8 trips offshore in kayaks on my way to an offshore kayak fishing tournament. So my selection of rods is pretty much offshore medium action stuff. A couple of companies make offshore rods that break down but unless I can get all three of the rods I need before the trip, it will be pointless to have just one or two of them that break down. I will post pics of the setup once I get the bike I will be riding but it's not going to look very conventional, to say the least.
09-12-14, 06:59 AM
#41
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Are MTB wheels heavier duty in the spoke area usually? I'm pretty sure the salsa wheels would be ready on purchase.
09-12-14, 09:12 AM
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I've never bothered with high spoke count wheels for touring. I run 32H on everything and I tend to carry less weight and don't beat up on my wheels. So aside from having a human check the tension on them I'd ride the stock Fargo wheels without a second thought.
09-12-14, 01:41 PM
#43
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Alrighty, so I'm now looking at the Kona Rove or Rove AL:
KONA BIKES | 2015 BIKES | FREERANGE | ROVE
KONA BIKES | 2015 BIKES | FREERANGE | ROVE AL
The AL has Claris (meh but functional), mechanical disc, fairly wide cassette range, 29ers which can take up to 2". Compared to my CrossCheck, the reach is shorter, chainstay & wheelbase is longer, it has more bb drop. It doesn't have the insane handlebars on the Fargo. List price is $900 for the AL version....
Edit: I figure if I really need suspension, I can add a Thudbuster. Not sure whether it is wise to add a suspension fork, but I'll worry about that if that really becomes necessary.
KONA BIKES | 2015 BIKES | FREERANGE | ROVE
KONA BIKES | 2015 BIKES | FREERANGE | ROVE AL
The AL has Claris (meh but functional), mechanical disc, fairly wide cassette range, 29ers which can take up to 2". Compared to my CrossCheck, the reach is shorter, chainstay & wheelbase is longer, it has more bb drop. It doesn't have the insane handlebars on the Fargo.
List price is $900 for the AL version....Edit: I figure if I really need suspension, I can add a Thudbuster. Not sure whether it is wise to add a suspension fork, but I'll worry about that if that really becomes necessary.
Last edited by Bacciagalupe; 09-12-14 at 02:01 PM.
09-12-14, 02:54 PM
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If going thudbuster, you could get a suspension stem also. https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?page_id=7331
09-12-14, 04:20 PM
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The AL has Claris (meh but functional), mechanical disc, fairly wide cassette range, 29ers which can take up to 2". Compared to my CrossCheck, the reach is shorter, chainstay & wheelbase is longer, it has more bb drop. It doesn't have the insane handlebars on the Fargo. List price is $900 for the AL version....
List price is $900 for the AL version....
09-12-14, 08:28 PM
#46
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If going thudbuster, you could get a suspension stem also. https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?page_id=7331
09-13-14, 08:15 AM
#47
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I'm sure you do fine with that rod. I'm continually lightening/streamlining my touring setup. The gold bag in the photo above contains my 18" tent poles and anything longer is a PITA.
I won't have a proper case or anything else like that around it. That sort of weight/bulk is just not in the cards.
I also spend a decent chunk of time not riding the bike, but carrying it, pushing it, dragging it or throwing it over/under/through obstacles.
At 18" it's well protected by my tent poles and bar bag. If it's closer to 30 there is lots to damage/snag and it's the delicate tips and connectors that are getting beat up.
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Stuart Black
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Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
09-13-14, 08:22 AM
#48
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You can make the wheels much stronger by building them yourself and using a spoke with a 2.3mm head. That increases the strength by about 50%.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
09-14-14, 08:24 PM
#49
Professional Fuss-Budget
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OK, now that I have a concept for the bike, next question is tires for this kind of setup.
Any tips? Ideally, something a little wider than a 32c, where I can keep a reasonably low pressure for off-road (50?) and around 80 on the road.
Any tips? Ideally, something a little wider than a 32c, where I can keep a reasonably low pressure for off-road (50?) and around 80 on the road.
09-15-14, 08:59 AM
#50
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If you are planning on touring where there is a lot of sand or the roads are very rocky or where it is likely to be muddy, you probably want to go to a wide tire that provides lots of floatation and/or grip. In other words, you probably want a 50mm tire and probably a knobby. That doesn't work as well on pavement but it works a whole lot better off-pavement. Look at vik's bikes for examples that fit the kind of terrain that he is riding.
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Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
