Rust + Chain Size!
08-16-19, 09:21 AM
#1
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Rust + Chain Size!
New to me 1986 Peugeot Triathlon. 2 questions I would love your help with:
1) See these two spots on the top tube? Is that rust or just Peugeot Primer perhaps? Found it right under the brake line on the top and bottom. Best guess is this is likely from sweat. Should I do anything about it? If so, what?
Concerns me as I want this beauty to last as long as possible!
2) I have a new KMC X8.99 chain on hand. Can I use it with this bike?
The frame says 12 speeds but there’s only 5 rear sprockets and 2 up front so I’m only seeing 10. Either way this is technically an 8 speed chain. I’ve read conflicting reviews.
Guy i bought it from had it for 13 years and never changed it.
Thanks for the insights all!
08-16-19, 09:30 AM
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Those spots are rust. This is a common occurrence on the top tube when you have a previous owner who sweat a lot and didn't wipe the salty sweat off the top tube after using the bike. Unfortunately this is very common with triathletes. What I would do is take some sandpaper and sand down the rust spots and the wrinkled paint around it. Then find some touch up paint and cover the sanded spots to protect the tube. It might not look great but it will solve your rust problem.
Your X8 chain will work. It is designed for 6/7/8 speed drivetrains, but should be fine for your 5 speed freewheel. Looks like someone switched the original 6 speed freewheel for a 5 speed at some point, perhaps out of thriftiness.
Cool bike. It's a well-appointed mid-range tri bike. Those Vitus tubes are nice and the Sachs-Huret components work well.
Your X8 chain will work. It is designed for 6/7/8 speed drivetrains, but should be fine for your 5 speed freewheel. Looks like someone switched the original 6 speed freewheel for a 5 speed at some point, perhaps out of thriftiness.
Cool bike. It's a well-appointed mid-range tri bike. Those Vitus tubes are nice and the Sachs-Huret components work well.
08-16-19, 11:22 AM
#4
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Those spots are rust. This is a common occurrence on the top tube when you have a previous owner who sweat a lot and didn't wipe the salty sweat off the top tube after using the bike. Unfortunately this is very common with triathletes. What I would do is take some sandpaper and sand down the rust spots and the wrinkled paint around it. Then find some touch up paint and cover the sanded spots to protect the tube. It might not look great but it will solve your rust problem.
Your X8 chain will work. It is designed for 6/7/8 speed drivetrains, but should be fine for your 5 speed freewheel. Looks like someone switched the original 6 speed freewheel for a 5 speed at some point, perhaps out of thriftiness.
Cool bike. It's a well-appointed mid-range tri bike. Those Vitus tubes are nice and the Sachs-Huret components work well.
Your X8 chain will work. It is designed for 6/7/8 speed drivetrains, but should be fine for your 5 speed freewheel. Looks like someone switched the original 6 speed freewheel for a 5 speed at some point, perhaps out of thriftiness.
Cool bike. It's a well-appointed mid-range tri bike. Those Vitus tubes are nice and the Sachs-Huret components work well.
If anyone has pro tips on Vintage Peugeot Touch Up Paint please let me know.
08-16-19, 11:42 AM
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Definitely not the original freewheel. The cogs you can see are set up for index shifting, so it may well be spaced for 6- or 7-speed. Come to think of it, I don't think there were any 5-speed freewheels made for the modern index age. The freewheel itself may well be hacked together. Not sure what it would have had originally, maybe a Regina? But the silver cogs on that freewheel are from a slightly later era.
10GB is right, that's a sweet find, in good shape for its age; that rust is quite manageable. Even before sanding it, I would hit it with a rust neutralizer; Fluid Film works well for us. A good sanding trick is to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around the end of a pencil or pen or the like. Allows you to concentrate on a very small area and avoid "collateral" damage to the finish. There's probably also rust on the INSIDE of the cable guide(s), evidenced by the staining of the cable housing. As said, exactly where sweat would be trapped.
And thanks for making me feel better that I never make the bed......
10GB is right, that's a sweet find, in good shape for its age; that rust is quite manageable. Even before sanding it, I would hit it with a rust neutralizer; Fluid Film works well for us. A good sanding trick is to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around the end of a pencil or pen or the like. Allows you to concentrate on a very small area and avoid "collateral" damage to the finish. There's probably also rust on the INSIDE of the cable guide(s), evidenced by the staining of the cable housing. As said, exactly where sweat would be trapped.
And thanks for making me feel better that I never make the bed......
08-18-19, 10:30 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Definitely not the original freewheel. The cogs you can see are set up for index shifting, so it may well be spaced for 6- or 7-speed. Come to think of it, I don't think there were any 5-speed freewheels made for the modern index age. The freewheel itself may well be hacked together. Not sure what it would have had originally, maybe a Regina? But the silver cogs on that freewheel are from a slightly later era.
10GB is right, that's a sweet find, in good shape for its age; that rust is quite manageable. Even before sanding it, I would hit it with a rust neutralizer; Fluid Film works well for us. A good sanding trick is to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around the end of a pencil or pen or the like. Allows you to concentrate on a very small area and avoid "collateral" damage to the finish. There's probably also rust on the INSIDE of the cable guide(s), evidenced by the staining of the cable housing. As said, exactly where sweat would be trapped.
And thanks for making me feel better that I never make the bed......
10GB is right, that's a sweet find, in good shape for its age; that rust is quite manageable. Even before sanding it, I would hit it with a rust neutralizer; Fluid Film works well for us. A good sanding trick is to wrap a small piece of sandpaper around the end of a pencil or pen or the like. Allows you to concentrate on a very small area and avoid "collateral" damage to the finish. There's probably also rust on the INSIDE of the cable guide(s), evidenced by the staining of the cable housing. As said, exactly where sweat would be trapped.
And thanks for making me feel better that I never make the bed......
Update here! Got the rear brake cable off and inspected the frame closer. Took a no scratch scour pad and knocked of any flaking paint I could. Updated pictures below. I also noticed a smidge of rust where the frame meets the fork. See pics.
08-18-19, 10:34 PM
#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
Those spots are rust. This is a common occurrence on the top tube when you have a previous owner who sweat a lot and didn't wipe the salty sweat off the top tube after using the bike. Unfortunately this is very common with triathletes. What I would do is take some sandpaper and sand down the rust spots and the wrinkled paint around it. Then find some touch
up paint and cover the sanded spots to protect the tube. It might not look great but it will solve your
rust problem.
Your X8 chain will work. It is designed for 6/7/8 speed drivetrains, but should be fine for your 5 speed freewheel. Looks like someone switched the original 6 speed freewheel for a 5 speed at some point, perhaps out of thriftiness.
Cool bike. It's a well-appointed mid-range tri bike. Those Vitus tubes are nice and the Sachs-Huret components work well.
up paint and cover the sanded spots to protect the tube. It might not look great but it will solve your
rust problem.
Your X8 chain will work. It is designed for 6/7/8 speed drivetrains, but should be fine for your 5 speed freewheel. Looks like someone switched the original 6 speed freewheel for a 5 speed at some point, perhaps out of thriftiness.
Cool bike. It's a well-appointed mid-range tri bike. Those Vitus tubes are nice and the Sachs-Huret components work well.
Whoops! Sent to early. My game plan here is to use the pencil sandpaper trick to knock down the handful of rust spots. Then fluid film and touch up paint.
Even with the updated pics, you guys wouldn’t sweat this too much would you?
The rest of the bike is in great condition. No rust on bars, components or elsewhere on the frame. I just have a likely irrational fear that the rust is worse than I can tell. Would you guys spray frame saver or fluid film inside?
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