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Replacement triple crankset for my hybrid?

Old 05-09-19, 02:33 AM
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MiPeGr
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Replacement triple crankset for my hybrid?

So I've got a 2006 Trek 7.5 FX that's mostly stock, including the original Bontrager-branded crankset (48/36/26). I've recently come to the conclusion that I need more climbing gear than the 26t can give me, even with an 11-34 in back. So I'm looking at what it would take to replace it with something like a 44/32/22 or thereabouts. The rest of the drivetrain is a 9-speed system, with Deore LX deraileurs and shifters.

I've done some digging around, and it looks like there are some options, but I've always been bewildered by the myriad product lines from each company. I've compiled a list of what seems to be generally available (and inexpensive)...no need to spend $$$ on an old bike. I'm hoping somebody out in Bike Forums land can tell me what I can rely on and what I should avoid (especially once I go away from Shimano or SRAM). Or if everything at this price point is pretty much the same. Looking keep the total cost below $100 (including shop labor if I need it, e.g. specialty tools). I'm shopping in the USA, so for this price point, I'm not sure EU vendors would make any sense, given what shipping will cost.

So here's the list:

SRAM S600 44/32/22
Shimano FC-M361 (Acera) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-MT300 (Acera) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-M430 (Alivio) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-T4060 (Alivio) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-M590 (Deore) 44/32/22
Suntour XCC-T 42/32/22
Suntour XCM-T 44/32/22
Suntour XCT9-T 44/32/22
Sunrace FCM954 44/32/22
Sunrace FCM914 44/32/22

I've been trying to understand bottom brackets, too, and I don't even know where to start. Is it safe to assume that it has a certain type of bottom bracket without me having to start un-bolting parts?

Thanks for any help...

Last edited by MiPeGr; 05-09-19 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 05-09-19, 05:16 AM
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Understand BCD and see if you can put a 22 on your existing crank.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...e-diameter-bcd
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Old 05-09-19, 06:18 AM
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If you decide to go with a new unit the Deore is pretty good. I have it on my touring bike and it has taken me across North America twice!
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Old 05-09-19, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dedhed
Understand BCD and see if you can put a 22 on your existing crank.

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...e-diameter-bcd
Would that mess with shifting? Either with the deraileur due to the big # of tooth jump between middle and inner, or with the ramps and pins?
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Old 05-09-19, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MiPeGr
Would that mess with shifting? Either with the deraileur due to the big # of tooth jump between middle and inner, or with the ramps and pins?
That is certainly a possibility. You would need to see what specs your FD and RD have and what they will handle as far as capacity and tooth jumps.

If you have a coop in your area, there's a good chance you can pick up a chainring (even all 3 or a crankset) dirt cheap and try it. Might need some FD adjustment or tweeking.

You can certainly replace the crankset with one of those mentioned. Most likely this will require a new bottom bracket compatible with the new crankset. The crankset determines what BB you use. The variables will be frame interface (PF, threaded, HTII etc), the length of spindle required to create the required chainline, and the interface on the spindle to crank arm connection (sq. taper, ISIS, octalink, HTII etc). While this may sound complicated, it's really not that bad unless you really start trying to mix & match things.

A new crankset with the smaller rings on all 3 WILL require the FD to be remounted and adjusted lower.

Do a little research regarding BB, chainline, derailleur capacity and you'll get an idea of some of the things to look out for.

Good places to look are Sheldon Brown, Park tool and some of the Shimano tech docs.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

https://si.shimano.com/#/

Celebrazio: Bicycling - Shimano Road Bike Parts Compatibility
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Old 05-09-19, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MiPeGr
Would that mess with shifting? Either with the deraileur due to the big # of tooth jump between middle and inner, or with the ramps and pins?
I run a 9s Deore M590 crankset with 48-36-22 for the same reason. It works fine for me. Specific Sheldon Brown's page on FD: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html He says that surprisingly, the size of the "granny" chainring has little effect on derailer performance. Many cyclists customize their "road triple" cranksets by installing a more-useful smaller ring in place of the 30 that comes stock.

You may encounter some problems with low/absent chain tension in low-low gears which you should not be using anyway (insufficient RD capacity). For example, I have M591 RD, which is rated for 45t wrap capacity. The front difference is 48-22=26, rear is 34-11=23. The total is 26+23=49, which slightly exceeds 45. Not a problem for me, YMMV.

Edit: when shifting from the middle to the granny ring under some load, the chain may drop. "Dog fang" chain catchers can help.
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Old 05-10-19, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by MiPeGr
Would that mess with shifting? Either with the deraileur due to the big # of tooth jump between middle and inner, or with the ramps and pins?
I'll echo csport. It shouldn't make a difference. If it does, change the middle ring to a 34. But I really doubt you'll have a problem.
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Old 05-10-19, 08:38 AM
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I am another vote for simply getting a smaller granny ring. I would add that even a 24 would give you a useful drop in gear inches, and will have less potential issues with shifting.
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Old 05-10-19, 09:42 AM
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Like other posters I'll throw in another vote in support of the Deore triple. We have 3 bikes here with that crank. The price on it seems to have gone up in the past year though,

The Alivio FC-T4060 looks like a good budget option.
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Old 05-10-19, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 88Tempo
Like other posters I'll throw in another vote in support of the Deore triple. We have 3 bikes here with that crank. The price on it seems to have gone up in the past year though,

The Alivio FC-T4060 looks like a good budget option.
That Alivio was the other one that was high on my list. Seems like the opinion is split on new crankset vs. new granny ring (certainly the cheapest option)

Anyone have any thoughts on the Sunrace or Suntour crank options?

Another possibility I'm considering is ordering replacement chain rings as a set (44/32/22) and installing all new rings. More $ than just a granny, but probably less than a complete crankset & bottom bracket & shop labor.

Dug up the specs on my derailleur, and I'm good there. Minimum big ring 44t, 22t total capacity, 12t gap.
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Old 05-10-19, 01:39 PM
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I have a friction thumb shifted 22,36, 48 crank on my Old MTB It shifts fine , by planning the shift..

BITD MTB Deore , now 48t big ring triples get named 'Trekking' ..

13 - 32t freewheel drum brake hubs , relegated to the occasional Icy Rd, wearer of the studded tires..
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Old 05-10-19, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MiPeGr
That Alivio was the other one that was high on my list. Seems like the opinion is split on new crankset vs. new granny ring (certainly the cheapest option)

Anyone have any thoughts on the Sunrace or Suntour crank options?

Another possibility I'm considering is ordering replacement chain rings as a set (44/32/22) and installing all new rings. More $ than just a granny, but probably less than a complete crankset & bottom bracket & shop labor.

Dug up the specs on my derailleur, and I'm good there. Minimum big ring 44t, 22t total capacity, 12t gap.
I just said heck with it and bought the tool for Hollowtech Bottom Brackets. I enjoy working on stuff though.
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Old 08-21-19, 03:01 PM
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Just wanted to touch base back with this thread for an update.

I ordered the FC-T4060 44/32/22 from one of the German retailers just before Shimano shut down that avenue for those of us in the US. Finally got around to making the time to make the swap. It went really smoothly, just had to take my time and make sure I didn't screw anything up in taking out the old ISIS crank and BB and replacing them with the new HT BB and crank. Getting the FD height right and getting it dialed back in was the hardest part, and now it shifts way smoother than the old crank did, despite multiple previous attempts at adjustment. Maybe the new chain helps, too?

Have done a couple of rides with it, and the extra hill climbing gear (combined with 36t rear) really makes a noticeable difference. Hauling my heavy self up grades up to 8% is now a comfortable and reasonable proposition.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback on my crank choice, and in general to everyone on BF for the resource to help me figure out how to do it myself.
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Old 08-21-19, 03:52 PM
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glad it worked out for you, and it does feel good to do something yourself doesnt it?

Perhaps have someone check the adjustment on the bb to make sure that the hollowtech is neither too tight, nor too loose. Too loose is easy to feel for by holding both pedals, and forcing back and forth perpendicular to the frame, any loose movement shouldnt be happening.

I ride a bike with very similar gearing, my heavy touring bike, 44/32/22 and 11-34 9 spd, and unloaded the 32 is too low, but for touring and riding up steep hills, the 22t granny gear is great to have.
There is really no downside to really low gears, you use them when needed, and shift up when you dont.

If ever down the road you find the bike too undergeared, putting a 22 on your existing old crank if the bcd allows it, should be an easy do. Ive changed a few bikes to smaller granny chain rings, and never had to move the fd or adjust anything.
Ive done 50/40/28 to a 24
50/39/30 to 26 a few times also.
and they just worked each time, nothing to do afterwards--except you do tend to have to shift up a few more gears in back when going from mid ring to granny, just because of the teeth jumps.

happy spinning up hills, your knees will thank you down the road and through the years.
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Old 08-21-19, 03:54 PM
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oh, check out Park Tools tutorial video series, great well made vids that help explain stuff and show good techniques. Trusted and well produced, lighting, sound, camera....there are loads of them for all kinds of mechanical stuff.
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Old 08-21-19, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by djb
If ever down the road you find the bike too undergeared...
Heh...unlikely. This gearing can do 25 MPH at a reasonable cadence, and I don't really feel like I have much need to go faster. I had a mile+ descent last weekend where I topped 28 MPH coasting, and I found it terrifying, can't imagine why I would want to pedal down that hill.

I just wish bike mfr's put gearing on that was more realistic for average-joe riders. Can't believe 1:1 low gears (or higher!) on endurance/gravel/adventure bikes....but that's a topic for another time.
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Old 08-21-19, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MiPeGr
Heh...unlikely. This gearing can do 25 MPH at a reasonable cadence, and I don't really feel like I have much need to go faster. I had a mile+ descent last weekend where I topped 28 MPH coasting, and I found it terrifying, can't imagine why I would want to pedal down that hill.

I just wish bike mfr's put gearing on that was more realistic for average-joe riders. Can't believe 1:1 low gears (or higher!) on endurance/gravel/adventure bikes....but that's a topic for another time.
I know what you mean. My similarly geared bike is a 26in wheeled bike, and I spin out at about 50-55kph, and thats really spinning out, very fast cadence. Especially if you are not into going fast, I agree 100% on the gearing, and anyway, with this gearing we can still bike along comfortably at 25 mph, 40kph, which frankly, never happens.
The times I have been able to hold 30kph, or 20mph, is reallllllly rare.
and all the times I have set speed records on bicycles downhill, I've been way past redline anyway, and am coasting, so its a moot point.

the main reason I mentioned that, is that for unloaded riding, the 36 mid ring is more versatile, with the 44/32 setup, we tend to find ourselves at the end of the 32 range and having to shift up to the 44t ring--but it aint a big deal with the 44/32/22 overall, and as you clearly appreciate, the lower gearing is great at times.
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