Replacement triple crankset for my hybrid?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 89
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
4 Posts
Replacement triple crankset for my hybrid?
So I've got a 2006 Trek 7.5 FX that's mostly stock, including the original Bontrager-branded crankset (48/36/26). I've recently come to the conclusion that I need more climbing gear than the 26t can give me, even with an 11-34 in back. So I'm looking at what it would take to replace it with something like a 44/32/22 or thereabouts. The rest of the drivetrain is a 9-speed system, with Deore LX deraileurs and shifters.
I've done some digging around, and it looks like there are some options, but I've always been bewildered by the myriad product lines from each company. I've compiled a list of what seems to be generally available (and inexpensive)...no need to spend $$$ on an old bike. I'm hoping somebody out in Bike Forums land can tell me what I can rely on and what I should avoid (especially once I go away from Shimano or SRAM). Or if everything at this price point is pretty much the same. Looking keep the total cost below $100 (including shop labor if I need it, e.g. specialty tools). I'm shopping in the USA, so for this price point, I'm not sure EU vendors would make any sense, given what shipping will cost.
So here's the list:
SRAM S600 44/32/22
Shimano FC-M361 (Acera) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-MT300 (Acera) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-M430 (Alivio) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-T4060 (Alivio) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-M590 (Deore) 44/32/22
Suntour XCC-T 42/32/22
Suntour XCM-T 44/32/22
Suntour XCT9-T 44/32/22
Sunrace FCM954 44/32/22
Sunrace FCM914 44/32/22
I've been trying to understand bottom brackets, too, and I don't even know where to start. Is it safe to assume that it has a certain type of bottom bracket without me having to start un-bolting parts?
Thanks for any help...
I've done some digging around, and it looks like there are some options, but I've always been bewildered by the myriad product lines from each company. I've compiled a list of what seems to be generally available (and inexpensive)...no need to spend $$$ on an old bike. I'm hoping somebody out in Bike Forums land can tell me what I can rely on and what I should avoid (especially once I go away from Shimano or SRAM). Or if everything at this price point is pretty much the same. Looking keep the total cost below $100 (including shop labor if I need it, e.g. specialty tools). I'm shopping in the USA, so for this price point, I'm not sure EU vendors would make any sense, given what shipping will cost.
So here's the list:
SRAM S600 44/32/22
Shimano FC-M361 (Acera) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-MT300 (Acera) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-M430 (Alivio) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-T4060 (Alivio) 44/32/22
Shimano FC-M590 (Deore) 44/32/22
Suntour XCC-T 42/32/22
Suntour XCM-T 44/32/22
Suntour XCT9-T 44/32/22
Sunrace FCM954 44/32/22
Sunrace FCM914 44/32/22
I've been trying to understand bottom brackets, too, and I don't even know where to start. Is it safe to assume that it has a certain type of bottom bracket without me having to start un-bolting parts?
Thanks for any help...
Last edited by MiPeGr; 05-09-19 at 02:52 AM.
#2
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,516
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2731 Post(s)
Liked 3,355 Times
in
2,034 Posts
Understand BCD and see if you can put a 22 on your existing crank.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...e-diameter-bcd
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...e-diameter-bcd
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 2,585
Bikes: 1992 Serotta Colorado II,Co-Motion Speedster, Giant Escape Hybrid, 1977 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 453 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 112 Times
in
85 Posts
If you decide to go with a new unit the Deore is pretty good. I have it on my touring bike and it has taken me across North America twice!
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 89
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
4 Posts
Understand BCD and see if you can put a 22 on your existing crank.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...e-diameter-bcd
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...e-diameter-bcd
#5
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,516
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2731 Post(s)
Liked 3,355 Times
in
2,034 Posts
If you have a coop in your area, there's a good chance you can pick up a chainring (even all 3 or a crankset) dirt cheap and try it. Might need some FD adjustment or tweeking.
You can certainly replace the crankset with one of those mentioned. Most likely this will require a new bottom bracket compatible with the new crankset. The crankset determines what BB you use. The variables will be frame interface (PF, threaded, HTII etc), the length of spindle required to create the required chainline, and the interface on the spindle to crank arm connection (sq. taper, ISIS, octalink, HTII etc). While this may sound complicated, it's really not that bad unless you really start trying to mix & match things.
A new crankset with the smaller rings on all 3 WILL require the FD to be remounted and adjusted lower.
Do a little research regarding BB, chainline, derailleur capacity and you'll get an idea of some of the things to look out for.
Good places to look are Sheldon Brown, Park tool and some of the Shimano tech docs.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
https://si.shimano.com/#/
Celebrazio: Bicycling - Shimano Road Bike Parts Compatibility
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 672
Bikes: Soma Double Cross Disc (2017), red Hardrock FS (circa 1996)
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 215 Post(s)
Liked 153 Times
in
101 Posts
You may encounter some problems with low/absent chain tension in low-low gears which you should not be using anyway (insufficient RD capacity). For example, I have M591 RD, which is rated for 45t wrap capacity. The front difference is 48-22=26, rear is 34-11=23. The total is 26+23=49, which slightly exceeds 45. Not a problem for me, YMMV.
Edit: when shifting from the middle to the granny ring under some load, the chain may drop. "Dog fang" chain catchers can help.
#7
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,274
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 150 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6147 Post(s)
Liked 4,091 Times
in
2,325 Posts
I'll echo csport. It shouldn't make a difference. If it does, change the middle ring to a 34. But I really doubt you'll have a problem.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#8
Bad example
I am another vote for simply getting a smaller granny ring. I would add that even a 24 would give you a useful drop in gear inches, and will have less potential issues with shifting.
__________________
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 280
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times
in
15 Posts
Like other posters I'll throw in another vote in support of the Deore triple. We have 3 bikes here with that crank. The price on it seems to have gone up in the past year though,
The Alivio FC-T4060 looks like a good budget option.
The Alivio FC-T4060 looks like a good budget option.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 89
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
4 Posts
Anyone have any thoughts on the Sunrace or Suntour crank options?
Another possibility I'm considering is ordering replacement chain rings as a set (44/32/22) and installing all new rings. More $ than just a granny, but probably less than a complete crankset & bottom bracket & shop labor.
Dug up the specs on my derailleur, and I'm good there. Minimum big ring 44t, 22t total capacity, 12t gap.
#11
Banned
I have a friction thumb shifted 22,36, 48 crank on my Old MTB It shifts fine , by planning the shift..
BITD MTB Deore , now 48t big ring triples get named 'Trekking' ..
13 - 32t freewheel drum brake hubs , relegated to the occasional Icy Rd, wearer of the studded tires..
BITD MTB Deore , now 48t big ring triples get named 'Trekking' ..
13 - 32t freewheel drum brake hubs , relegated to the occasional Icy Rd, wearer of the studded tires..
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 280
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times
in
15 Posts
That Alivio was the other one that was high on my list. Seems like the opinion is split on new crankset vs. new granny ring (certainly the cheapest option)
Anyone have any thoughts on the Sunrace or Suntour crank options?
Another possibility I'm considering is ordering replacement chain rings as a set (44/32/22) and installing all new rings. More $ than just a granny, but probably less than a complete crankset & bottom bracket & shop labor.
Dug up the specs on my derailleur, and I'm good there. Minimum big ring 44t, 22t total capacity, 12t gap.
Anyone have any thoughts on the Sunrace or Suntour crank options?
Another possibility I'm considering is ordering replacement chain rings as a set (44/32/22) and installing all new rings. More $ than just a granny, but probably less than a complete crankset & bottom bracket & shop labor.
Dug up the specs on my derailleur, and I'm good there. Minimum big ring 44t, 22t total capacity, 12t gap.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 89
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
4 Posts
Just wanted to touch base back with this thread for an update.
I ordered the FC-T4060 44/32/22 from one of the German retailers just before Shimano shut down that avenue for those of us in the US. Finally got around to making the time to make the swap. It went really smoothly, just had to take my time and make sure I didn't screw anything up in taking out the old ISIS crank and BB and replacing them with the new HT BB and crank. Getting the FD height right and getting it dialed back in was the hardest part, and now it shifts way smoother than the old crank did, despite multiple previous attempts at adjustment. Maybe the new chain helps, too?
Have done a couple of rides with it, and the extra hill climbing gear (combined with 36t rear) really makes a noticeable difference. Hauling my heavy self up grades up to 8% is now a comfortable and reasonable proposition.
Thanks to everyone for the feedback on my crank choice, and in general to everyone on BF for the resource to help me figure out how to do it myself.
I ordered the FC-T4060 44/32/22 from one of the German retailers just before Shimano shut down that avenue for those of us in the US. Finally got around to making the time to make the swap. It went really smoothly, just had to take my time and make sure I didn't screw anything up in taking out the old ISIS crank and BB and replacing them with the new HT BB and crank. Getting the FD height right and getting it dialed back in was the hardest part, and now it shifts way smoother than the old crank did, despite multiple previous attempts at adjustment. Maybe the new chain helps, too?
Have done a couple of rides with it, and the extra hill climbing gear (combined with 36t rear) really makes a noticeable difference. Hauling my heavy self up grades up to 8% is now a comfortable and reasonable proposition.
Thanks to everyone for the feedback on my crank choice, and in general to everyone on BF for the resource to help me figure out how to do it myself.
#14
Senior Member
glad it worked out for you, and it does feel good to do something yourself doesnt it?
Perhaps have someone check the adjustment on the bb to make sure that the hollowtech is neither too tight, nor too loose. Too loose is easy to feel for by holding both pedals, and forcing back and forth perpendicular to the frame, any loose movement shouldnt be happening.
I ride a bike with very similar gearing, my heavy touring bike, 44/32/22 and 11-34 9 spd, and unloaded the 32 is too low, but for touring and riding up steep hills, the 22t granny gear is great to have.
There is really no downside to really low gears, you use them when needed, and shift up when you dont.
If ever down the road you find the bike too undergeared, putting a 22 on your existing old crank if the bcd allows it, should be an easy do. Ive changed a few bikes to smaller granny chain rings, and never had to move the fd or adjust anything.
Ive done 50/40/28 to a 24
50/39/30 to 26 a few times also.
and they just worked each time, nothing to do afterwards--except you do tend to have to shift up a few more gears in back when going from mid ring to granny, just because of the teeth jumps.
happy spinning up hills, your knees will thank you down the road and through the years.
Perhaps have someone check the adjustment on the bb to make sure that the hollowtech is neither too tight, nor too loose. Too loose is easy to feel for by holding both pedals, and forcing back and forth perpendicular to the frame, any loose movement shouldnt be happening.
I ride a bike with very similar gearing, my heavy touring bike, 44/32/22 and 11-34 9 spd, and unloaded the 32 is too low, but for touring and riding up steep hills, the 22t granny gear is great to have.
There is really no downside to really low gears, you use them when needed, and shift up when you dont.
If ever down the road you find the bike too undergeared, putting a 22 on your existing old crank if the bcd allows it, should be an easy do. Ive changed a few bikes to smaller granny chain rings, and never had to move the fd or adjust anything.
Ive done 50/40/28 to a 24
50/39/30 to 26 a few times also.
and they just worked each time, nothing to do afterwards--except you do tend to have to shift up a few more gears in back when going from mid ring to granny, just because of the teeth jumps.
happy spinning up hills, your knees will thank you down the road and through the years.
#15
Senior Member
oh, check out Park Tools tutorial video series, great well made vids that help explain stuff and show good techniques. Trusted and well produced, lighting, sound, camera....there are loads of them for all kinds of mechanical stuff.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 89
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
4 Posts
Heh...unlikely. This gearing can do 25 MPH at a reasonable cadence, and I don't really feel like I have much need to go faster. I had a mile+ descent last weekend where I topped 28 MPH coasting, and I found it terrifying, can't imagine why I would want to pedal down that hill.
I just wish bike mfr's put gearing on that was more realistic for average-joe riders. Can't believe 1:1 low gears (or higher!) on endurance/gravel/adventure bikes....but that's a topic for another time.
I just wish bike mfr's put gearing on that was more realistic for average-joe riders. Can't believe 1:1 low gears (or higher!) on endurance/gravel/adventure bikes....but that's a topic for another time.
#17
Senior Member
Heh...unlikely. This gearing can do 25 MPH at a reasonable cadence, and I don't really feel like I have much need to go faster. I had a mile+ descent last weekend where I topped 28 MPH coasting, and I found it terrifying, can't imagine why I would want to pedal down that hill.
I just wish bike mfr's put gearing on that was more realistic for average-joe riders. Can't believe 1:1 low gears (or higher!) on endurance/gravel/adventure bikes....but that's a topic for another time.
I just wish bike mfr's put gearing on that was more realistic for average-joe riders. Can't believe 1:1 low gears (or higher!) on endurance/gravel/adventure bikes....but that's a topic for another time.
The times I have been able to hold 30kph, or 20mph, is reallllllly rare.
and all the times I have set speed records on bicycles downhill, I've been way past redline anyway, and am coasting, so its a moot point.
the main reason I mentioned that, is that for unloaded riding, the 36 mid ring is more versatile, with the 44/32 setup, we tend to find ourselves at the end of the 32 range and having to shift up to the 44t ring--but it aint a big deal with the 44/32/22 overall, and as you clearly appreciate, the lower gearing is great at times.