Looking for advice for a Mid late 90s classic or 80s bike
#101
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Thread Starter
Updates
So after a month or so Ive probably done 200km.
my top speed, Cant really break 37- 38 km/h on a flat surface.
My goal is 40km/h top speed.
6'3 230lbs hoping to get back to 205- 210.
I think Im going to raise my seat up.
Thoughts.
Also Cleaning up the 80s Lotus
my top speed, Cant really break 37- 38 km/h on a flat surface.
My goal is 40km/h top speed.
6'3 230lbs hoping to get back to 205- 210.
I think Im going to raise my seat up.
Thoughts.
Also Cleaning up the 80s Lotus
#102
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Not easiest to assess via still pic, but it appears you may have room to comfortably raise the saddle a bit.
Personally I think the biggest factor besides muscular strength (which you can build up) is your torso position. Might want to work on getting a bit lower in the drops if you can.
Those are my thoughts.
Doc James
#103
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As for your saddle height, nobody here knows if its too low based on those picks since your legs arent extended.
A general way to figure out saddle height- sit on your saddle, bring a crank arm to the 6oclock position, and place your heel on the pedal. If your hips rock for you to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If there is bend in your knee, the saddle is too low. Adjust the saddle accordingly and check again until you can fully extend your leg with your heel on the pedal, but without tilting your hips down.
This then gives you a slight bend in the knee when you place your foot on the pedals to ride, which is a proper saddle height an leg extension.
#104
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Thread Starter
Yes It is. Road bikers everywhere all throughout the day. Its a flat farmland road network that isnt that car busy and Bikers flock to it. Saturday morning is a zoo. But all during the week at any given time you will see 10 to 20 riders in your 20km 24 km ride
#105
Junior Member
If you are trying to burn calories then it’s more important to spend more time riding than trying to attain a high speed goal.
Try riding at a slower pace for longer. You’ll burn more calories.
also don’t forget the old adage “you can’t outrun (outbike) a bad diet.”
In other words cut back on the calories.. youll see results faster.
I spend 3-4 hours on an 80km ride but return with an 1800 calorie burn (lots of hills where I live).
avg speed is 17-18 kph.
Try riding at a slower pace for longer. You’ll burn more calories.
also don’t forget the old adage “you can’t outrun (outbike) a bad diet.”
In other words cut back on the calories.. youll see results faster.
I spend 3-4 hours on an 80km ride but return with an 1800 calorie burn (lots of hills where I live).
avg speed is 17-18 kph.
#106
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Building up a bike is not cheap, even buying used components that you recondition yourself, you’ll never recoup your costs, if you care about that kind of stuff. I don’t, its a hobby, its entertainment, and something that keeps me grounded, and sane in retirement. Still it’s way cheaper then buying a decent new bike, if you can even find one these days.
My least expensive bike was my Trek TX900, bought it complete, and perfectly maintained, from someone who could no longer ride it. 600 dollars all in, just had to replace the stem, bike came with a 120mm Cinelli, and re-tape the bars. If you just want something to ride, buy a complete bike from someone who cares.
Tim
1977 Trek TX900
My least expensive bike was my Trek TX900, bought it complete, and perfectly maintained, from someone who could no longer ride it. 600 dollars all in, just had to replace the stem, bike came with a 120mm Cinelli, and re-tape the bars. If you just want something to ride, buy a complete bike from someone who cares.
Tim
1977 Trek TX900
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#107
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Love your tall bikes. I ride a 67cm Taiwan made Schwinn Sports Tourer and a 69cm Nishiki Sebring. Both bikes bought used and built frame up with new components. As you said you don't make money on these, you ride them for pleasure. All my rebuilt bikes cost at least a $1000 in components and wheelsets but they fit me well and ride beautifully. Neither of these two bikes is a high end bike but rather low mid range bikes. As such 32mm tires fit because both bikes could have fenders. Both bikes had 27" wheels but the Nishiki now has 700c. Brakes fit both sizes just fine. Both bikes are lugged steel frames and have been very reliable durable perfomers. Finally I ride the Schwinn off road all the time because the old 27"x1 1/4" wheel size works real well on gravel and dirt roads. I didn't know that back in the 70's but now I know, so off road I go.
Tim
1985 Trek 670
#108
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Quick question
Hi. quick question
I am a bigger guy 6'3 220 lbs as posted
I have a 2014 Masi Partenza https://archive.harobikes.com/masi/2014-masi/partenza-2014
as Ive also posted before
Its aluminum with some carbon pieces and a little better than basic groupset.
My question just mostly out of curiosity, without buying a $2500 bike to find out myself.
How much faster are these Cannondale and Giant and S Works carbon bikes for real.
Im averaging 27 -28km per hour average speed on strava - 40-42km h top speed, and I see carbon bike riders posting 37km average speed on carbon bikes.
These are times on all flats. same flats Im doing.
TT bikes at 42km average top speeds of like 51-57km/h
Are all these riders that better and more fit than I am.....or do these Carbon bikes with Ulterga and Dura Ace gear have that much significant improvement. I just cant believe that im 20km/h less than a TT bike when my legs now are just burnin....
I am a bigger guy 6'3 220 lbs as posted
I have a 2014 Masi Partenza https://archive.harobikes.com/masi/2014-masi/partenza-2014
as Ive also posted before
Its aluminum with some carbon pieces and a little better than basic groupset.
My question just mostly out of curiosity, without buying a $2500 bike to find out myself.
How much faster are these Cannondale and Giant and S Works carbon bikes for real.
Im averaging 27 -28km per hour average speed on strava - 40-42km h top speed, and I see carbon bike riders posting 37km average speed on carbon bikes.
These are times on all flats. same flats Im doing.
TT bikes at 42km average top speeds of like 51-57km/h
Are all these riders that better and more fit than I am.....or do these Carbon bikes with Ulterga and Dura Ace gear have that much significant improvement. I just cant believe that im 20km/h less than a TT bike when my legs now are just burnin....
#109
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It's all about the engine.....
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
#110
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#111
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Either way, you will not be noticeably faster with a $2500 bike.
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#114
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#115
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Thread Starter
You might find something of interest in this GCN video:
Cheap Bike Vs. Super Bike | What's The Difference?.
Cheap Bike Vs. Super Bike | What's The Difference?.
Wow, this video was pretty amazing. Comparing the two bikes in a fast road line the Raleigh was only, 7.1% slower. I find that mind boggling.
So that means the issue is me, my weight, aerodynamics, lack of strength and my mechanics of how im set up on the bike. I could be all wrong in my position.
#116
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Wow, this video was pretty amazing. Comparing the two bikes in a fast road line the Raleigh was only, 7.1% slower. I find that mind boggling.
So that means the issue is me, my weight, aerodynamics, lack of strength and my mechanics of how im set up on the bike. I could be all wrong in my position.
So that means the issue is me, my weight, aerodynamics, lack of strength and my mechanics of how im set up on the bike. I could be all wrong in my position.
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
#117
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Geometry
There is a good Youtube video of $100, $1000, $7000 bikes doing tests
There was a huge difference. I put my Masi at about $500.
But since Im new to biking, I think I should go to the store and check my geometry.
Maybe its not set up for me as it should be.
Anyways, Im never buying a $7000 bike. or a $2500 bike for that matter. Next year I may upgrade to a another used bike with better groupset that is $1000 or $1200.
But I am certainly not being aerodynamic, and I think at 26- 27km 28 km an hour on the flats for 20km distance, that plays into effect.
Im just blown away that people doing the same distance on the leader boards, are double my speed.
Im competitive and Im pushing my fat body and aluminum masi to the limits and my top speed on measured sections flats is 38 km/h. They are pushing 53km/h at the same sections.
Im not a Chris Froome, but he is 145 pounds, and I am 225 lb wearing basketball shorts and Yeezes
Last edited by longhitv; 05-12-21 at 09:14 AM.
#118
Full Member
Wow, this video was pretty amazing. Comparing the two bikes in a fast road line the Raleigh was only, 7.1% slower. I find that mind boggling.
So that means the issue is me, my weight, aerodynamics, lack of strength and my mechanics of how im set up on the bike. I could be all wrong in my position.
So that means the issue is me, my weight, aerodynamics, lack of strength and my mechanics of how im set up on the bike. I could be all wrong in my position.
You are converting stored energy in your body, and you are doing it at some rate. Think of that as your "engine", delivering 100 W, 200 W, whatever.
- Some of that power is going into overcoming aerodynamic drag of the bike itself.
- Some of it is going into overcoming the aerodynamic drag of your body.
- Some of it is going into overcoming the rolling resistance of the tires and tubes.
- Some of it is lost through frictional losses in the drivetrain.
- When you are climbing, some of it is going into lifting your mass, and the mass of the bike, in opposition to gravity; you're doing the work of lifting a weight.
Some improvements can come from changes to technique, and some of those can happen fairly quickly - e.g., improving your position on the bike, changing how you use gears (spinning vs. mashing) to pedal at different cadence, improving the form of your pedaling stroke.
Making significant improvements to your "engine" - increasing the amount of power you can deliver - involves physiological adaptation in response to training. That takes effort and time. Some people are content to "just ride", but some look to more structured training to get where they want to be.
#119
Senior Member
You look pretty cramped on your bike, at least in those photos. A longer stem may help.
One Sunday about 35 years ago, my time was the same (to the minute) as Greg Lemond's. My distance was about half of his. Of course, he drafted better than I did, and he had faster people to draft behind....
Im just blown away that people doing the same distance on the leader boards, are double my speed.
#120
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yeah...umm...not really. For someone riding at the max of performance then the differences with a bike will matter some. For us mere mortals you ain't buying speed.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
#121
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https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/Hw...EkF-970-80.jpg
You will never beat this type of bike on your regular road bike.
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#122
Senior Member
The world is inexorably and unnecessarily going to disc brakes, but a bike with TRP mini-V brakes and 9-10 speed brifters will provide the shifting performance you want with all the braking power you need, hopefully at a reasonable price. I rode with downtube shifters for 30 years - just say no. Clipless pedals are a major improvement as well. Frame material: I have multiple bikes each in steel, titanium, alu and carbon. I cannot tell the difference between them, as tires and the saddle and bars make all the difference in terms of the 'ride'. However, steel is heavier than alu/titanium (tie) and carbon, all things being equal. Low weight is a very good thing.
Sourcing bikes... currently we're in the middle of 'Bikemageddon', in which everything under $1k at a shop is gone, and our local Craigslist, normally a sewer of overpriced, broken and stolen junk, is far worse than usual. Folks are posting take-off reflectors for $5, tubes for $15, and thrashed department-store BSO's for higher than original retail. If you can outwait the pandemic, and the usual crush of spring bike demand, maybe some deals will be available - eventually.
#123
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Notice how there are virtually NO brake cables flapping in the wind with the bike and its down tube shifters. It was ultra clean.
There were a lot of different brands of bikes with lugged frames from the 80s that were great bikes. IMO bikes pretty much reached their zenith in the 80s with their beautiful lugged frames.
There were a lot of different brands of bikes with lugged frames from the 80s that were great bikes. IMO bikes pretty much reached their zenith in the 80s with their beautiful lugged frames.
#124
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Wow, this video was pretty amazing. Comparing the two bikes in a fast road line the Raleigh was only, 7.1% slower. I find that mind boggling.
So that means the issue is me, my weight, aerodynamics, lack of strength and my mechanics of how im set up on the bike. I could be all wrong in my position.
So that means the issue is me, my weight, aerodynamics, lack of strength and my mechanics of how im set up on the bike. I could be all wrong in my position.
The video was not a good test comparing old technology against new technology, it was a good test for cheap poorly made bike vs a expensive bike, but then who would be debating between such an extreme price range? A person wanting a cheap bike wouldn't even entertain a super bike, so if their motivation was to pump up super bike sales...well they failed miserably at that. What they should have done was tested a cheap old bike against a cheap new bike, then flipped it and tested a superbike old bike against a new superbike.
The other thing to consider is that there is only a 2 3/4ths of a miles per hour average speed difference between the TDF from 1960 to 2016, but what that average speed doesn't mention is that the TDF is 500 miles LESS today then it use to be back in the 60's, while the number of racing days has stayed the same, so the reality is the only reason for the 2 3/4 mile per increase is due to racing less miles and therefore the riders are less tired today.
#125
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update
After 10 months of posting this and new tire and clipless pedal, I have biked about 1200 km and my average speed on a 40km ride is 27-28 km/h. That's as good as it gets for me.
Id like to try a newer TT bike just to see how fast I can really be. the 2012 Masi is an entry bike and its great. Time setters on my routes with TT bikes are posting 55km/h. Im at 28km So it would be nice to see just where I fit in
Id like to try a newer TT bike just to see how fast I can really be. the 2012 Masi is an entry bike and its great. Time setters on my routes with TT bikes are posting 55km/h. Im at 28km So it would be nice to see just where I fit in