Full Chaincase
#76
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I have full chain CASE on a brand new Torker Cargo-T, so there ARE modern examples. So find a shop that has an account with Seattle Bicycle. Order a spare chain CASE.
Torker Cargo-T.jpg
Torker Cargo-T.jpg
Last edited by Fat Tire; 01-04-10 at 01:20 AM.
#77
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Just thought I would mention, in case anyone missed it, that I had written quite a bit about the rear axle stand in the Dutch Center Stand thread here in the Utility Bike form.
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I have full chain guard on a brand new Torker Cargo-T, so there ARE modern examples. So find a shop that has an account with Seattle Bicycle. Order a spare chain guard.
Attachment 130374
Attachment 130374
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#79
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Aaron is correct about that. Supposedly, the Sunbeam chaincase was designed as an oil bath chaincase. I have never seen one, but it would be interesting to know if you had to drain it to change a tube or tyre? From things I have read, the Sunbeam may have been the high-end roadster of all time. Or maybe it was the American made Columbia of about 1900? What, you thought alloy frames, shaft drive, and things like that were new technology?
#80
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Just resurrecting an old thread here, but I was wondering if anyone has made their own chain case and would like to share some pics and some mounting ideas. I like the way the VO polished chain guard uses a BB mount. It would be nice to design the back half of a chain case to work like that... I am going to try and make some mock-ups and see how they work out for me.
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I had a Hebie Chainglider on a Raleigh Shopper here.
https://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=P1020760.jpg
I also had one on a Racing bike that I adapted to be a fast commuter here.
https://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=P1020421.jpg
They are a right pain if you get a puncture and you end up covered in oil. However they do keep your chain really clean. On the Racer I had Schwalbe Marathon Plus - they've been on for nearly four years and I have never had a puncture. On the Shopper though I have Duranos and they get punctures all the time. Eventually I just took it off.
I had to cut both of them a little with a craft knife to get them to fit. These are both Superbe Pro 42t chainrings.
https://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=P1020760.jpg
I also had one on a Racing bike that I adapted to be a fast commuter here.
https://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=P1020421.jpg
They are a right pain if you get a puncture and you end up covered in oil. However they do keep your chain really clean. On the Racer I had Schwalbe Marathon Plus - they've been on for nearly four years and I have never had a puncture. On the Shopper though I have Duranos and they get punctures all the time. Eventually I just took it off.
I had to cut both of them a little with a craft knife to get them to fit. These are both Superbe Pro 42t chainrings.
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Clasher, you might use that VO bottom bracket mount as a starting point for making a dutch style chaincase, that is to say a metal frame that is covered in a fabric covering. The really old chaincases of this type use leather, wereas newer models use vinyl.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lovely_bicycle/5295129917
Here is an example of the chaincase frame as mounted onto a frame braze-on. Raleigh DL-1s from the early 70s had such braze-ons.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lovely_bicycle/5295130067
This is a full view of the chaincase, it can't be made out too easily, but there is a metallic piece that completes the back end of the frame that goes between the hub and the dropout.
https://www.dutchbikeseattle.com/imag..._4373_blog.jpg
This is what such a piece looks like.
https://vintagebicycle.wordpress.com/...-bicycle-1946/
If you want to go for a partial porteur chaincase in this style, the VO hardware seems like it can be modified for this purpose as well.
https://prollyisnotprobably.com/2009/...r_tutorial.php
As far as the Hebie chaincase goes, a cheap and ghetto way of imitating it would be to use electrical conduit from auto-supply stores (they are used to tidy up the mass of cables) to wrap the chain. Since the conduit is essentially a long bendy straw that's been split down the middle, it moves with the chain; its not perfect, the plastic used is not made to withstand repetitive bending and will eventually break into smaller fragments, each bit clinging to the chain. Despite this flaw, such a chaincase works fine to keep clothes clean, although it does not do much to prevent the chain from accumulating grime.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lovely_bicycle/5295129917
Here is an example of the chaincase frame as mounted onto a frame braze-on. Raleigh DL-1s from the early 70s had such braze-ons.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lovely_bicycle/5295130067
This is a full view of the chaincase, it can't be made out too easily, but there is a metallic piece that completes the back end of the frame that goes between the hub and the dropout.
https://www.dutchbikeseattle.com/imag..._4373_blog.jpg
This is what such a piece looks like.
https://vintagebicycle.wordpress.com/...-bicycle-1946/
If you want to go for a partial porteur chaincase in this style, the VO hardware seems like it can be modified for this purpose as well.
https://prollyisnotprobably.com/2009/...r_tutorial.php
As far as the Hebie chaincase goes, a cheap and ghetto way of imitating it would be to use electrical conduit from auto-supply stores (they are used to tidy up the mass of cables) to wrap the chain. Since the conduit is essentially a long bendy straw that's been split down the middle, it moves with the chain; its not perfect, the plastic used is not made to withstand repetitive bending and will eventually break into smaller fragments, each bit clinging to the chain. Despite this flaw, such a chaincase works fine to keep clothes clean, although it does not do much to prevent the chain from accumulating grime.
Last edited by jrecoi; 05-28-11 at 08:46 PM.
#83
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Aaron is correct about that. Supposedly, the Sunbeam chaincase was designed as an oil bath chaincase. I have never seen one, but it would be interesting to know if you had to drain it to change a tube or tyre? From things I have read, the Sunbeam may have been the high-end roadster of all time. Or maybe it was the American made Columbia of about 1900? What, you thought alloy frames, shaft drive, and things like that were new technology?
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https://www.yellowjersey.org/mguard.html
26" one fit my frame. Had the same measurements from the rear dropout to the bottom bracket as Raleigh Sports frames and the same bottom bracket size.
Fabricated brackets from pipe clips. Though in hindsight I'd recommend fabricating an L shaped bracket which would attach to the the top of the kickstand plate and be secured with the kickstand bolt. Also drilled through the case at the fender eyelet and used the fender bolt with a nut to help secure the case at the dropout. Between that, the stay clip, and the bottom bracket clip locations the chaincase stays put.
26" one fit my frame. Had the same measurements from the rear dropout to the bottom bracket as Raleigh Sports frames and the same bottom bracket size.
Fabricated brackets from pipe clips. Though in hindsight I'd recommend fabricating an L shaped bracket which would attach to the the top of the kickstand plate and be secured with the kickstand bolt. Also drilled through the case at the fender eyelet and used the fender bolt with a nut to help secure the case at the dropout. Between that, the stay clip, and the bottom bracket clip locations the chaincase stays put.
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I'd like to get one of the Dutch Bike chain covers, but ordering from the Netherlands seems like it would be an ordeal for something I've never seen
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I've had good experience with this vendor in Holland:
https://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=43
Shipping to US is not outrageous, stuff shows up in a couple weeks. The owner is actually English.
https://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=43
Shipping to US is not outrageous, stuff shows up in a couple weeks. The owner is actually English.
Last edited by kevbo; 05-16-12 at 09:04 PM.
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Added one of DutchBikeBits' Hesling chaincases. Required some modification to enlarge the crank arm opening for clearance and custom anchor bracket due to the presence of a kickstand plate.
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Hi, I know this is a really old thread, but I was wondering if you have any close-up pictures of how the chaincase is actually mounted on your bike?
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I took a stainless steel L shaped shelf bracket and drilled holes in it to create a mounting bracket sandwiched between the kickstand plate. It was a lot of trial and error to get the alignment of the bracket to correspond with the mounting plate inside the chaincase and provide the correct spatial relationship with the chain line. Expect several hours of fitting and fussing to get it correct. In the time since I did this I've never had an issue with the case shifting out of alignment or any other trouble.
The crank arm isn't quite centered, but it works fine.
The rear mounting is a Y shaped plate of sheet metal which comes with the chaincase which snaps into the two halves of the case on one end and slips over the axle on the other. The plate is pinched into place against the dropout by the axle nut.
The crank arm isn't quite centered, but it works fine.
The rear mounting is a Y shaped plate of sheet metal which comes with the chaincase which snaps into the two halves of the case on one end and slips over the axle on the other. The plate is pinched into place against the dropout by the axle nut.
Last edited by Fenway; 11-14-16 at 11:56 AM.
#91
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@Fenway - thanks for the pictures. Do you find that the rear axle bracket adds any particular complication to installing or removing the wheel? I've been struggling to picture how it wouldn't be a huge pain to deal with, particularly with forward-facing semi-horizontal dropouts.
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When the nut is taken off to remove the wheel the bracket comes off as well. Usually I have to unscrew the two sides of chain case to take the wheel off. It's a real pain compared to the modern copies of Raleigh chaincases that Yellow Jersey sells. Unfortunately those Raileigh copy cases don't work with anything other that cottered cranks or the special cottered look cotterless cranks that Pashley makes, but can't be purchased separately.
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When the nut is taken off to remove the wheel the bracket comes off as well. Usually I have to unscrew the two sides of chain case to take the wheel off. It's a real pain compared to the modern copies of Raleigh chaincases that Yellow Jersey sells. Unfortunately those Raileigh copy cases don't work with anything other that cottered cranks or the special cottered look cotterless cranks that Pashley makes, but can't be purchased separately.
Traditional design steel crankset - without cotter pins
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That one is actually a cotterless crank that's modeled after cottered cranks. Very similar to, if not the same as, the one that Pashley uses on their Roadsters. I'm planning to use it for a build I'm working on.
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huh, missed that it was cotterless. There were some stronglights in the early days that had steel arms and looked a lot like that. Although if they would fit a lot of the 54mm cranks would fit
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I finally ordered my chaincase and installed it on the bike:
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Nicely done. I wish I had known Dutch Bike Bits had those steel Pashley/Raleigh cotterless (cottered in appearance) crank army when I had purchased my chaincase years ago such that I wouldn't have had to cut a larger opening to clear the spider of a traditional cotterless crank arm.