Bike Fitting
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Bike Fitting
Is it true and accurate to say that in a properly fit road bike the handlebars should be obstructing the front hub from your view when looking down while holding the bars from the drops?
In my case, the hub is mostly obstructed ONLY when holding the bars before the hoods and sitting in a fairly upright position. It also depends on how much I bend my neck. I try to maintain a "neutral" neck position when doing so, but it does make me wonder what the correct neck posture should be for this rule of thumb to work.
If this rule is not accurate, how can one determine if the length of a frame is too short. I know you can always get a longer stem, and I did by switching from 90 mm to 110 mm. However, I don't want to go so long as to sacrifice bike aesthetics. Which by the way, it would be interesting to see what people think is too long of a stem in terms of aesthetics ?
Thanks
Jesus
In my case, the hub is mostly obstructed ONLY when holding the bars before the hoods and sitting in a fairly upright position. It also depends on how much I bend my neck. I try to maintain a "neutral" neck position when doing so, but it does make me wonder what the correct neck posture should be for this rule of thumb to work.
If this rule is not accurate, how can one determine if the length of a frame is too short. I know you can always get a longer stem, and I did by switching from 90 mm to 110 mm. However, I don't want to go so long as to sacrifice bike aesthetics. Which by the way, it would be interesting to see what people think is too long of a stem in terms of aesthetics ?
Thanks
Jesus
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Well Jesus, first I must say....Im a huge fan of your work, thanks for the fish and bread that one day....was getting really hungry.
But for bike fitting, it isnt strict guidelines just "get you into the ballpark". Your best bet is to get professional bike fitted and have the numbers recorded so on your next bike you can transfer the numbers over.
Also look here:
https://pedalforce.com/online/bikefit...5eb37560adfcda
But for bike fitting, it isnt strict guidelines just "get you into the ballpark". Your best bet is to get professional bike fitted and have the numbers recorded so on your next bike you can transfer the numbers over.
Also look here:
https://pedalforce.com/online/bikefit...5eb37560adfcda
#3
Recusant Iconoclast
LOL! I'm a huge Jesus fan too!
In terms of esthetics of 10mm stem length difference, I wouldn't care or notice if you're the guy that's just passed me.
In terms of esthetics of 10mm stem length difference, I wouldn't care or notice if you're the guy that's just passed me.
#5
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Hello son............. The old bars hiding the hub thing is an OLD rule of thumb that really no longer aplies. The bars should be where ever they are most comfortable for you. You should have a little elbow bend and be able to use your drops efficiently.
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Kona Jake the Snake
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Kona Jake the Snake
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Also look here:
https://pedalforce.com/online/bikefit...5eb37560adfcda
https://pedalforce.com/online/bikefit...5eb37560adfcda
Body Measurements:
Gender: Male
Units: cm
Height: 176.98
Sternal Notch Height: 145.41
Inseam Length: 80.32
Tigh Length: 33.97
Arm length: 58.42
Shoulder Width: 38.10
Foot Length: 26.67
Saddle Height over handlebar: 5.08
Bicycle Sizing Recommendations:
Seat Tube Length (c-c): 53.0 cm 20.9 inch
Seat Tube Angle: 75.0 deg
Crank Arm Length: 170.0 mm 6.7 inch
Saddle-Pedal Length: 85.0 - 87.4 cm 33.4 - 34.4 inch
Top tube Length: 54.0 cm 21.3 inch
Stem Length: 95.0 - 105.0 mm 3.7 - 4.1 inch
Handlebar Width: 38.0 - 39.0 cm 15.0 - 15.4 inch
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This fitting "rule of thumb" like other guidelines is just that. A guideline. It ensures you are in the "ballpark" for correct fit.
Same goes for KOPS.
But it's not (pardon the expression) gospel and certainly can be tweaked for comfort/performance and/or your personal preference.
Same goes for KOPS.
But it's not (pardon the expression) gospel and certainly can be tweaked for comfort/performance and/or your personal preference.
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In that picture is your left foot flat on the ground? If so, that bike is WAY too small for you, like you probably need a 58, not a 56 and DEFINITELY not a 54. You need to go to an LBS and get fitted, THEN buy a bicycle and then get that properly sized bicycle adjusted to fit you. Regardless, return that one ASAP before they won't take it back.
#11
Recusant Iconoclast
Since you've already bought it, isn't this then moot? Or can you still exchange it? Hard to eyeball it in person as it is without trying to do so from a pic. If it's generally comfortable now, maybe tweak it with stem, handlebar, seatpost, etc. adjustments.
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Oh man! That bike looks unbelievably small for you!!!! It literally looks like you are consuming it, not riding it!!!
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I can still return it. That's one of the reasons I decided to buy local. In fact, I am here at the store and they are trying hard to convince me it is my size. I don't believe them as it is not in their interest for me to return it. That is why I am asking here.
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1. The bars obstructing the hub measurement is an old rule of thumb that is generally not thought to be very relevant any more. Forget about it.
2. I think you can't tell a lot from the picture- the angle from which it was taken appears to make the bike look misleadingly small. Remember, he said that he has both feet flat on the pedals in the picture. 177cm tall is about 5'9.5", so a 54cm frame is in the ball park, assuming "average" body dimensions. The fit calculator (which is an estimate, not a pro fitting, but a good starting place) gives a top tube dimension within 7mm of his bike's. A 110mm stem is an average size- the 90mm one is by most standards a short stem. The C-C measurement of seat tube that the OP posted sounds so short because the bike has a sloping top tube, so I am assuming that the "size 54cm" is the effective seat tube length, and is the least important measurement anyway. You also need to assess the head tube length.
I think that you may be ok with the size, but to know for sure you need to have a good fitter look at you on the bike with cycling shoes and kit on (not jeans and running shoes). Another issue is how you feel on it- do you feel cramped or does the fit feel right? Unless you have ridden well fit bike before, however, this may be hard for you to judge.
2. I think you can't tell a lot from the picture- the angle from which it was taken appears to make the bike look misleadingly small. Remember, he said that he has both feet flat on the pedals in the picture. 177cm tall is about 5'9.5", so a 54cm frame is in the ball park, assuming "average" body dimensions. The fit calculator (which is an estimate, not a pro fitting, but a good starting place) gives a top tube dimension within 7mm of his bike's. A 110mm stem is an average size- the 90mm one is by most standards a short stem. The C-C measurement of seat tube that the OP posted sounds so short because the bike has a sloping top tube, so I am assuming that the "size 54cm" is the effective seat tube length, and is the least important measurement anyway. You also need to assess the head tube length.
I think that you may be ok with the size, but to know for sure you need to have a good fitter look at you on the bike with cycling shoes and kit on (not jeans and running shoes). Another issue is how you feel on it- do you feel cramped or does the fit feel right? Unless you have ridden well fit bike before, however, this may be hard for you to judge.
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I returned the bike. The question now is what bike am I going to buy now that the podium 6 is sold out at PB. It was a great deal. I am now deciding between the podium 5 and the Bottecchia USA with CF and dura ace that they sell at eBay for 1800. The podium 5 frame is much nicer and is bb30 and internal cable routing. On the other hand the Bottecchia has excellent components.
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I returned the bike. The question now is what bike am I going to buy now that the podium 6 is sold out at PB. It was a great deal. I am now deciding between the podium 5 and the Bottecchia USA with CF and dura ace that they sell at eBay for 1800. The podium 5 frame is much nicer and is bb30 and internal cable routing. On the other hand the Bottecchia has excellent components.
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Jarango that frame is too short for you. Looks like you are short legged but either way, frame too short in my opinion. The 56 is like ok, the issue is that that frame in specific has a seat tube angle makes the reach of the bike shorter.
I would get the 56 if i was you. In that one you look like a bear riding a scooter, sorry for the analogy. And flip the stem also
Good luck.
I would get the 56 if i was you. In that one you look like a bear riding a scooter, sorry for the analogy. And flip the stem also
Good luck.
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The shop fitted the bike to my measurements and it felt fine, but as someone pointed out I look like I am on my little brother's bike. I did not realized this until I took the picture I posted today. I've learned my lesson: fitting a bike has two components: 1) That it can be adjusted to your measurements 2) Aesthetics: That you don't look ridiculously small or big on the bike. I failed to consider #2 when I bought the bike.
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The rule that works for me and my customers is, with the seat positioned so the center of gravity is over the feet, the humerus (upper arm) should form a 90+ degree angle with the torso when the hands are over the brake hoods. And the elbows are slightly bent. And the back is reasonably straight.
Some guys ride larger than their dimensions would indicate. You seem to be one of them, probably because of your straight back and long-ish arms. The top tube on that 54 Diamondback is also on the short side. I'd try a 56.
Some guys ride larger than their dimensions would indicate. You seem to be one of them, probably because of your straight back and long-ish arms. The top tube on that 54 Diamondback is also on the short side. I'd try a 56.
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Thanks everyone. I returned the bike. Since the Podium 6 is no longer available, I chose the Bottecchia/Carbon/Dura-Ace over the Podium 5. In this decision I chose components over frame. We'll see how that goes.