What is your cruise speed in top gear on flat ground?
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I cruise in whatever gear enables me to pedal about 90 rpm.
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By "cruise speed", I will assume you mean a fairly easy-to-moderate effort level that can be sustained for a long distance. Assuming flat ground, with no wind, riding my road bike, it's probably going to be somewhere around 18-20mph. I would not use my top gear (53x11) for that kind of riding, however. I would use a gear ratio that results in 85-90rpm, which is were I tend to be most efficient.
For me to run 85 RPM in 48/11 I'd be going about 31 MPH and needing to push about 500-600 W. I could maybe sprint for 10 seconds at that power. So, no cruising in big-little for me.
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my tempo cruising speed on flat ground with no wind is around 20mph.
i like 80rpm or so, which equates to somewhere between my 16 and 17t in the 52t up front.
the 52-11 combo is used for downhill or big tailwinds, which are of course lots of fun. basically 30mph and up.
i like 80rpm or so, which equates to somewhere between my 16 and 17t in the 52t up front.
the 52-11 combo is used for downhill or big tailwinds, which are of course lots of fun. basically 30mph and up.
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At 40 rpm in my lowest gear (34/28), I am going 4 mph. On a 20% grade, that's 4.2 watts/kg for me. Absolutely brutal--I can't last long at that pace.
There are roads that pitch up to 20% or higher, but not for very long. A few I can think of: Sonora Pass (26%), Pacific Grade (24%), Santa Rosa Creek Rd. (20%), and a bunch of little roads in the local area. All brutal.
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I'm starting to see the error of my ways: Have always assumed that the objective is to ride the tallest gear that is comfortable and that i should ride front-big and rear-little as much as possible.
Poking around the internet this afternoon has made me aware of the benefit of higher cadence and the availability of cadence sensors. A change in technique may be in the offing for me.
Poking around the internet this afternoon has made me aware of the benefit of higher cadence and the availability of cadence sensors. A change in technique may be in the offing for me.
The local velodrome (the sadly closed Alpenrose) has 48 degree banking. Flat?
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I never cruise in my top gear. It is like 120 inches. I cruise in an 84 incher at 80 rpm or a tad less.
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About 24mph for a minute or two, then I get tired and stop pedaling for about 15 seconds and let it drift back down to 21-22, then speed up again. Consistency is over-rated. 39-13 gearing
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I'm starting to see the error of my ways: Have always assumed that the objective is to ride the tallest gear that is comfortable and that i should ride front-big and rear-little as much as possible.
Poking around the internet this afternoon has made me aware of the benefit of higher cadence and the availability of cadence sensors. A change in technique may be in the offing for me.
Poking around the internet this afternoon has made me aware of the benefit of higher cadence and the availability of cadence sensors. A change in technique may be in the offing for me.
You may very well find a different gear ratio and cadence that works better for you. I'm an outlier who finds 53x11 with a cadence in the 50s really good for me on level ground. I have met some other older guys who ride like I do, and we are really pretty fast.
Experimentation is your friend, avoid taking the word of anyone who wants to dictate the right cadence for you. There's no substitute for individualized knowledge.
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Just so you know, there's no standardization as to how big those gears are. Generally, cogs are referred to by the number of teeth. So your biggest one up front might be a 48t ring or a 52t or a 50t. The rear ones vary as well. The smallest could be as small as 11t or maybe as big as 14t.
What matters is the ratio--if you are running a 48x12 combination, for example, every time you pedal the crank over once, you are turning the rear wheel 4 times. Thus you can go faster with a low cadence than you can with, say 48x16, where the rear wheel will turn over 3 times for every turn of the crank. The catch is, of course, that it takes a lot more torque to turn over a 4:1 combo than it does a 3:1, so most people find that drop-off in cadence outweighs the increase in "gear inches", and they also fatigue much faster in the higher ratio..
Don't overthink this, just try different combinations and have fun with it.
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40 rpm is reserved for those moments when the road pitches up to ludicrous grades. Hopefully, for very short distances.
At 40 rpm in my lowest gear (34/28), I am going 4 mph. On a 20% grade, that's 4.2 watts/kg for me. Absolutely brutal--I can't last long at that pace.
There are roads that pitch up to 20% or higher, but not for very long. A few I can think of: Sonora Pass (26%), Pacific Grade (24%), Santa Rosa Creek Rd. (20%), and a bunch of little roads in the local area. All brutal.
At 40 rpm in my lowest gear (34/28), I am going 4 mph. On a 20% grade, that's 4.2 watts/kg for me. Absolutely brutal--I can't last long at that pace.
There are roads that pitch up to 20% or higher, but not for very long. A few I can think of: Sonora Pass (26%), Pacific Grade (24%), Santa Rosa Creek Rd. (20%), and a bunch of little roads in the local area. All brutal.
i’m not sure how often i’ve encountered a 20% + that i couldn’t go around, but our cross street at home is a bit over 20% and i can do it only for a block or two, maybe 1/4 mile, which is interesting because at high speeds, level or slight grades, in the higher gears at higher cadence i can sustain 300w for much longer! something about going that slow…
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#47
slow on any terrain
I put a cadence sensor on my bike yesterday. Will try it out as soon as the weather permits.
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As an older, slower cyclist these days, my average speed on flattish ground will be between 10-13 mph according to my CatEye speedometer, depending on what shape I'm in and what I'm riding. In a 38/18, that's about 60-80 rpm cadence, according to that nifty calculator that shelbyfv posted above. I don't even get into the big chainring unless I'm on a long, steep downhill.
In my glorious youth, on a challenge, I rode up the back side of Gate's Pass in Tucson, supposedly a Dangerous Road(!), in a 52/15, remaining seated the entire way, never out of the saddle.
Was I doing that wrong?
In my glorious youth, on a challenge, I rode up the back side of Gate's Pass in Tucson, supposedly a Dangerous Road(!), in a 52/15, remaining seated the entire way, never out of the saddle.
Was I doing that wrong?
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Just took a look at a couple of my bikes. The smallest cog on both of them are perfectly clean while the middle cogs show signs of having been in contact with the chains. Long story short is that I very seldom ride in my highest gear. Never on level ground, even when I am sprinting. Fastest sprint I ever did on flat ground was at about 70 kph and even then I wasn't in my highest gear
Last edited by alcjphil; 04-23-23 at 01:51 PM.