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What is your cruise speed in top gear on flat ground?

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What is your cruise speed in top gear on flat ground?

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Old 04-20-23, 08:04 PM
  #26  
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I cruise in whatever gear enables me to pedal about 90 rpm.
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Old 04-20-23, 08:08 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Eric F
By "cruise speed", I will assume you mean a fairly easy-to-moderate effort level that can be sustained for a long distance. Assuming flat ground, with no wind, riding my road bike, it's probably going to be somewhere around 18-20mph. I would not use my top gear (53x11) for that kind of riding, however. I would use a gear ratio that results in 85-90rpm, which is were I tend to be most efficient.
This is similar for me. I run a GRX setup with a 48T in the front, and even with that I'm not using the 11 on flat ground short of a hurricane strength tailwind. A fast cruise speed for me on the flat is 20 MPH, at 85 RPM I would be in 48/17 (8th gear in the back). And while on a good day, I can hold this for an extended time (2+ hours with some breaks), it would not be "easy to moderate" for me. Certainly a moderate+ effort.

For me to run 85 RPM in 48/11 I'd be going about 31 MPH and needing to push about 500-600 W. I could maybe sprint for 10 seconds at that power. So, no cruising in big-little for me.
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Old 04-20-23, 08:21 PM
  #28  
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my tempo cruising speed on flat ground with no wind is around 20mph.

i like 80rpm or so, which equates to somewhere between my 16 and 17t in the 52t up front.

the 52-11 combo is used for downhill or big tailwinds, which are of course lots of fun. basically 30mph and up.
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Old 04-20-23, 08:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by pdlamb
What is this "flat" of which you write?
Beat me to it.
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Old 04-21-23, 09:34 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by DaveSSS
That would be an incredibly low 42 rpm cadence. The lowest I ever do is around 68 on a difficult climb. I use 85 to 105 on the flats.
Yup. The OP is definitely doing it wrong. For well over 100 years, cadence in the range of 80-100 rpm has been shown to be optimal. 40 rpm is not.
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Old 04-21-23, 10:34 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by KerryIrons
Yup. The OP is definitely doing it wrong. For well over 100 years, cadence in the range of 80-100 rpm has been shown to be optimal. 40 rpm is not.
40 rpm is reserved for those moments when the road pitches up to ludicrous grades. Hopefully, for very short distances.

At 40 rpm in my lowest gear (34/28), I am going 4 mph. On a 20% grade, that's 4.2 watts/kg for me. Absolutely brutal--I can't last long at that pace.

There are roads that pitch up to 20% or higher, but not for very long. A few I can think of: Sonora Pass (26%), Pacific Grade (24%), Santa Rosa Creek Rd. (20%), and a bunch of little roads in the local area. All brutal.
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Old 04-21-23, 10:48 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by eljayski
I'm starting to see the error of my ways: Have always assumed that the objective is to ride the tallest gear that is comfortable and that i should ride front-big and rear-little as much as possible.

Poking around the internet this afternoon has made me aware of the benefit of higher cadence and the availability of cadence sensors. A change in technique may be in the offing for me.
In my racing days long ago I did my weekly long ride once as an out and back with a turn around 50 miles from the highway belt around Boston I used as a start/finish. 5 hours flat. (Wasn't monitoring either time or speed. No computer, just an ordinary wrist watch. Fun when I looked at my watch and saw the exact 5 hours.) And I doubt I ever got off the inside chainiring. (42 teeth)


Originally Posted by urbanknight
If you didn't do it on a velodrome, it doesn't count as "flat"

...
The local velodrome (the sadly closed Alpenrose) has 48 degree banking. Flat?
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Old 04-21-23, 10:51 AM
  #33  
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I never cruise in my top gear. It is like 120 inches. I cruise in an 84 incher at 80 rpm or a tad less.
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Old 04-21-23, 11:11 AM
  #34  
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About 24mph for a minute or two, then I get tired and stop pedaling for about 15 seconds and let it drift back down to 21-22, then speed up again. Consistency is over-rated. 39-13 gearing
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Old 04-21-23, 11:17 AM
  #35  
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Where do they come from?

What do they get out of it?
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Old 04-21-23, 11:19 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by eljayski
I'm starting to see the error of my ways: Have always assumed that the objective is to ride the tallest gear that is comfortable and that i should ride front-big and rear-little as much as possible.

Poking around the internet this afternoon has made me aware of the benefit of higher cadence and the availability of cadence sensors. A change in technique may be in the offing for me.

You may very well find a different gear ratio and cadence that works better for you. I'm an outlier who finds 53x11 with a cadence in the 50s really good for me on level ground. I have met some other older guys who ride like I do, and we are really pretty fast.

Experimentation is your friend, avoid taking the word of anyone who wants to dictate the right cadence for you. There's no substitute for individualized knowledge.
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Old 04-21-23, 11:35 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by grantelmwood
I have 1/2/3 and 1/2/3/4/5/6/7 for my gears.
On flat, I put it on 3/7 and can hold a moderately resistance pedal
I will try to count rpms next time

Just so you know, there's no standardization as to how big those gears are. Generally, cogs are referred to by the number of teeth. So your biggest one up front might be a 48t ring or a 52t or a 50t. The rear ones vary as well. The smallest could be as small as 11t or maybe as big as 14t.

What matters is the ratio--if you are running a 48x12 combination, for example, every time you pedal the crank over once, you are turning the rear wheel 4 times. Thus you can go faster with a low cadence than you can with, say 48x16, where the rear wheel will turn over 3 times for every turn of the crank. The catch is, of course, that it takes a lot more torque to turn over a 4:1 combo than it does a 3:1, so most people find that drop-off in cadence outweighs the increase in "gear inches", and they also fatigue much faster in the higher ratio..

Don't overthink this, just try different combinations and have fun with it.
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Old 04-21-23, 11:38 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by rsbob
Jeremy Clarkson may have some thoughts on Top Gear (speeds).

If things are going too slow, he'll find a producer to slap.
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Old 04-21-23, 12:04 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by terrymorse
40 rpm is reserved for those moments when the road pitches up to ludicrous grades. Hopefully, for very short distances.

At 40 rpm in my lowest gear (34/28), I am going 4 mph. On a 20% grade, that's 4.2 watts/kg for me. Absolutely brutal--I can't last long at that pace.

There are roads that pitch up to 20% or higher, but not for very long. A few I can think of: Sonora Pass (26%), Pacific Grade (24%), Santa Rosa Creek Rd. (20%), and a bunch of little roads in the local area. All brutal.
i have a 36/34 on my main bike, so 40 rpm gives me 3.4mph. exactly 300 watts required for that speed at 20%.

i’m not sure how often i’ve encountered a 20% + that i couldn’t go around, but our cross street at home is a bit over 20% and i can do it only for a block or two, maybe 1/4 mile, which is interesting because at high speeds, level or slight grades, in the higher gears at higher cadence i can sustain 300w for much longer! something about going that slow…
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Old 04-21-23, 12:17 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by eljayski
50-11 for me yields about 15 mph at a comfortable pace
This makes my knees hurt just reading it.
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Old 04-21-23, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
The local velodrome (the sadly closed Alpenrose) has 48 degree banking. Flat?
LOL If you stay on the black line, it’s flat.
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Old 04-21-23, 12:37 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by eljayski
50-11 for me yields about 15 mph at a comfortable pace
Originally Posted by caloso
This makes my knees hurt just reading it.
15 mph would only require about 100 W on flat ground, so the knee strain wouldn't be any worse than 200 W at double the cadence (80 RPM?).
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Old 04-21-23, 12:50 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by nomadmax
Where do they come from?

What do they get out of it?
Questions for the ages ... sigh.
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Old 04-21-23, 12:57 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
LOL If you stay on the black line, it’s flat.
But if you go slower than 12 mph you fall off that flat surface.
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Old 04-21-23, 06:52 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by nomadmax
Where do they come from?

What do they get out of it?
...Cotton eyed Joe?
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Old 04-21-23, 11:01 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by tomato coupe
15 mph would only require about 100 W on flat ground, so the knee strain wouldn't be any worse than 200 W at double the cadence (80 RPM?).

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Old 04-22-23, 06:30 PM
  #47  
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I put a cadence sensor on my bike yesterday. Will try it out as soon as the weather permits.
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Old 04-23-23, 09:26 AM
  #48  
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34mph max


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Old 04-23-23, 12:01 PM
  #49  
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As an older, slower cyclist these days, my average speed on flattish ground will be between 10-13 mph according to my CatEye speedometer, depending on what shape I'm in and what I'm riding. In a 38/18, that's about 60-80 rpm cadence, according to that nifty calculator that shelbyfv posted above. I don't even get into the big chainring unless I'm on a long, steep downhill.

In my glorious youth, on a challenge, I rode up the back side of Gate's Pass in Tucson, supposedly a Dangerous Road(!), in a 52/15, remaining seated the entire way, never out of the saddle.

Was I doing that wrong?
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Old 04-23-23, 01:47 PM
  #50  
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Just took a look at a couple of my bikes. The smallest cog on both of them are perfectly clean while the middle cogs show signs of having been in contact with the chains. Long story short is that I very seldom ride in my highest gear. Never on level ground, even when I am sprinting. Fastest sprint I ever did on flat ground was at about 70 kph and even then I wasn't in my highest gear

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