What have you been wrenching on lately?
#6301
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Cockpit Revision 2.0
Trimmed 1 1/4" off the right handlebar to place the Jtek shifter in a more useful location and re-shimmed for better clamping. The IRD levers were replaced with TRP carbon for better ergos and build quality. Added a black alloy Nitto handlebar end cap for bling.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
The NJS Nitto seat post arrived, good fit in the frame and I like the look with the titanium Brooks saddle.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
A new used set of MKS RX-1 pedals arrived and were dressed with ALE toeclips and NJS straps, good to go!!!
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
: Mike
Trimmed 1 1/4" off the right handlebar to place the Jtek shifter in a more useful location and re-shimmed for better clamping. The IRD levers were replaced with TRP carbon for better ergos and build quality. Added a black alloy Nitto handlebar end cap for bling.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
The NJS Nitto seat post arrived, good fit in the frame and I like the look with the titanium Brooks saddle.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
A new used set of MKS RX-1 pedals arrived and were dressed with ALE toeclips and NJS straps, good to go!!!
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
: Mike
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Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
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#6302
Senior Member
I'm really enjoying the photos and the project! I have to be honest such a setup never would have occurred to me, well done on inspiration, planning and execution.
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#6304
señor miembro
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What have you been sawing on lately?
5mm off this axle I got with a 6207 rear hub from eBay.
Damn thing was 140mm. Who uses 130mm spacing???
5mm off this axle I got with a 6207 rear hub from eBay.
Damn thing was 140mm. Who uses 130mm spacing???
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#6305
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Peugeot UO 9ish late 70s
I finished up this late 70s Peugeot UO 9ish. It started out life as a UO 10 but I decided to use the wheels for another project (they're nice wheels, Normandy high flange hubs laced to Rigida 16-22 alloy rims). I installed a set of steel rim wheels with Normandy hubs that were OEM on a UO 9 also from the late 70s. So this bike is UO 9ish. I finished overhauling the bike (hubs, BB, and headset) as well as replacing all the cables and cable housing. Plus I had to toss the delrin front derailleur and shifters. It was a lot of work but these are, IMO, fine riding bikes.
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#6306
1991 PBP Anciens
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I overhauled the front hub on The Tetanus Express yesterday because it felt ‘sticky’.
I built this in 2005 and I used ‘Blue Slip II’ in that hub. Jeez, that stuff turned to tar and took almost an hour to clean the races and bearings. Thankfully, I ran out of the stuff years ago.
I built this in 2005 and I used ‘Blue Slip II’ in that hub. Jeez, that stuff turned to tar and took almost an hour to clean the races and bearings. Thankfully, I ran out of the stuff years ago.
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#6307
Newbie
76 super course 3 speed fully loaded
I ground off the 52T chainring and added a modified chain guard and fenders. It's now my go to grocery getter and have taken it on a few long rides.
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#6308
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The F. W. get test fit of wheels. I went to put some 126 on the back, expecting to spread to I saw that it was at 130-. So I tried some black rimsI thought this Ultegra hub 32/28 with black looked really good. I also tried a new build set of Grand Bois rims 32/32 on Ultegra.
I think the bright Grand Bois will get the nod...
The saddle mounted, I think that it is a bmx. It is spiderweb plastic with Chromoly rail. Probably will not be used on finale. A rather generic Kalloy maybe seatpost. SR Forged 90mm stem, and a set handlebars from a Raleigh Super Course rounds out the first of test fit.
I think the bright Grand Bois will get the nod...
The saddle mounted, I think that it is a bmx. It is spiderweb plastic with Chromoly rail. Probably will not be used on finale. A rather generic Kalloy maybe seatpost. SR Forged 90mm stem, and a set handlebars from a Raleigh Super Course rounds out the first of test fit.
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#6310
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#6311
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Part II went much easier than expected
Proper tool makes all the difference here, required a good bit of torque to get these loose
Bottom bracket came off with no special tools (thankfully) just a large adjustable wrench and a pair off pump pliers (with a bit of gaff tape on the jaws)
Proper tool makes all the difference here, required a good bit of torque to get these loose
Bottom bracket came off with no special tools (thankfully) just a large adjustable wrench and a pair off pump pliers (with a bit of gaff tape on the jaws)
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#6312
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This all started several years ago with a pile of leftover parts and a "what could possibly go wrong?" attitude.
I was in possession of a beat-up black 26" coaster brake bike with orange rims and black hubs & spokes. I thought the bike would look better with black rims, so I unbuilt the wheels and rebuilt them with black rims. Once that black bike cleaned up and came together, it was great - so good that it sold in minutes for $200 at the height of covid to a woman who said it was exactly what she was looking for since before the mess. Yay. So far so good.
So now I have a set of 26" bright orange rims just yelling "buillld meeee!" So I laced them into a set of spare cassette hubs and installed them on the bike I call the "Great Pumpkin" - a Specialized in nearly the same shade of orange. Win-win!
Not quite. I discovered that the orange paint on the sidewalls didn't behave the same as prior colored anodized rims I'd had - no matter what brake shoe or compound type I used, applying brakes would result in unpredictable deceleration and a howl that embarrassed the Mafacs on my fixie. And the rim accumulated gobs of shoe junk on the sidewalls, too.
I finally decided that even though I'd already put a bunch of work into thesecheap inexpensive wheels, I'd have to put in some more and remove the paint from the sidewalls. But hopefully without removing that glorious orange color from the rest of the rim.
After some trial and error, it seems the least-destructive method is scrubbing with a Goof-Off soaked towel and scraping the softened paint with a fingernail. The fumes are fun, and it's working without marring the sidewall or destroying the paint I want to keep, but it's sloooow. They used thick paint. So I'm only doing one small part at a time, then recovering by going off to do something more interesting such as paying work or pondering the fate of the universe, then doing a little more. But the parts I've finished look good so far.
At this rate, I think I'll be done by... July. Maybe. But most of my career has been "elephant-eating" assignments, so I'll just keep at it one piece at a time. At least I have the Goof-Off fumes to keep me happy...
I was in possession of a beat-up black 26" coaster brake bike with orange rims and black hubs & spokes. I thought the bike would look better with black rims, so I unbuilt the wheels and rebuilt them with black rims. Once that black bike cleaned up and came together, it was great - so good that it sold in minutes for $200 at the height of covid to a woman who said it was exactly what she was looking for since before the mess. Yay. So far so good.
So now I have a set of 26" bright orange rims just yelling "buillld meeee!" So I laced them into a set of spare cassette hubs and installed them on the bike I call the "Great Pumpkin" - a Specialized in nearly the same shade of orange. Win-win!
Not quite. I discovered that the orange paint on the sidewalls didn't behave the same as prior colored anodized rims I'd had - no matter what brake shoe or compound type I used, applying brakes would result in unpredictable deceleration and a howl that embarrassed the Mafacs on my fixie. And the rim accumulated gobs of shoe junk on the sidewalls, too.
I finally decided that even though I'd already put a bunch of work into these
After some trial and error, it seems the least-destructive method is scrubbing with a Goof-Off soaked towel and scraping the softened paint with a fingernail. The fumes are fun, and it's working without marring the sidewall or destroying the paint I want to keep, but it's sloooow. They used thick paint. So I'm only doing one small part at a time, then recovering by going off to do something more interesting such as paying work or pondering the fate of the universe, then doing a little more. But the parts I've finished look good so far.
At this rate, I think I'll be done by... July. Maybe. But most of my career has been "elephant-eating" assignments, so I'll just keep at it one piece at a time. At least I have the Goof-Off fumes to keep me happy...
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Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Last edited by RCMoeur; 05-12-23 at 11:48 PM.
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#6313
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Over 40 years ago when I was much poorer, I splurged and invested in a set of good Sugino bottom bracket tools. I still use them today. And when properly used they have a near-100% record on removing the most uncooperative of fixed and adjusting cups.
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Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
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#6314
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The gearing for the Stratos has arrived, 47 tooth Campagnolo Super Record 3/32", Sram 24 tooth gear hub sprocket 3/32", the "primary" drive ratio is 1.958, in line with Shimano's recommendations for the Alfine 11. below is the Sheldon chart...
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Making an attempt at weight control, a Sturmey-Archer 24 tooth 1/8" sprocket weighs 127 grams, the Sram sprocket weighs 82 grams (-45 grams).
The choice of chain matters.
112 links of Connex 7R8 3/32" chain weighs 454grams. 104 links = 421.6 gr.... Nope.
106 links of NJS Spec. 1/8" chain weighs 372 grams. 104 links = 365.0 gr (base line)
114 links of Sram PC870 3/32" chain weighs 317 grams 104 links = 289.1gr
Calc... 365.0 gr NJS - 289.1 gr Sram = -75.9 grams + -45 grams for Sram sprocket = -120.9 grams that wont be there by choosing the right parts.... Yup
: Mike
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Making an attempt at weight control, a Sturmey-Archer 24 tooth 1/8" sprocket weighs 127 grams, the Sram sprocket weighs 82 grams (-45 grams).
The choice of chain matters.
112 links of Connex 7R8 3/32" chain weighs 454grams. 104 links = 421.6 gr.... Nope.
106 links of NJS Spec. 1/8" chain weighs 372 grams. 104 links = 365.0 gr (base line)
114 links of Sram PC870 3/32" chain weighs 317 grams 104 links = 289.1gr
Calc... 365.0 gr NJS - 289.1 gr Sram = -75.9 grams + -45 grams for Sram sprocket = -120.9 grams that wont be there by choosing the right parts.... Yup
: Mike
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Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
Last edited by Nemosengineer; 05-12-23 at 11:58 PM. Reason: add stuff
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#6315
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Heard, and agreed . . . that said this one pretty much took itself off, perhaps it was out of fear of my indelicate choice of tools! I had barely checked to see if the wrench was big enough to fit when the cup spun loose, after that opposite side came loose by hand, pliers only came out when I hit some gunk on the threads that was making my fingers work too hard. Had any part of this taken much more effort/torque I would have stopped and gotten the right tool for the job.
#6316
Steel is real
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No pics, but my bike tech will install a chris king threadless headset on the Daccordi Fly, a campy record headset on the Grandis , a campy record headset on the Fausto Coppi and a Stronglight JDX94 headset on the Vetta.Once this will be done, I will install the ITM goccia stems and the ITM supertraining bars plus install the dura ace 7800 rim brakes and also buy plus install a dura ace sp 7400 seat post on the Pinarello Stelvio.
#6317
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Added a front pannier rack to my 87 High Sierra.
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#6318
ambulatory senior
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#6319
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Finally found a seat post and saddle clamp for my rescued 1946 Cleveland Welding Company Roadmaster. A bit of tuning and did a short ride yesterday. It was donated in 2020 after hanging outdoors on a garden fence for over 30 years covered head to toe in faded Rustoleum red. A rarity here in Canada.
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
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#6320
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Viking "European"
I'm rebuilding a 1979 Viking "European." The original Viking company based in Wolverhampton went out of business in the late 60s. The name and company were bought up and the bikes made in Northern Ireland. Not a bad bike with a Reynolds 531 plain gauge main frame, Reynolds 531 forks, and Campagnolo drop outs. This will be a parts bin build as I'll eventually sell the bike. I did splurge by buying the correct Reynolds sticker for the frame as it was missing when I bought the bike, These are pics of the bike, the Viking catalog page for this model, and a pic of the stickers:
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#6322
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!
Adjusted the TP holders…they’ve loosened up over the year…
Fine line betwix too loose and too tight…
…no general set angle…no grease…
I’d like to shake the hands of whoever came up with this…after he washes them of course…
Fine line betwix too loose and too tight…
…no general set angle…no grease…
I’d like to shake the hands of whoever came up with this…after he washes them of course…
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#6323
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#6324
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I'm rebuilding a 1979 Viking "European." The original Viking company based in Wolverhampton went out of business in the late 60s. The name and company were bought up and the bikes made in Northern Ireland. Not a bad bike with a Reynolds 531 plain gauge main frame, Reynolds 531 forks, and Campagnolo drop outs. This will be a parts bin build as I'll eventually sell the bike. I did splurge by buying the correct Reynolds sticker for the frame as it was missing when I bought the bike, These are pics of the bike, the Viking catalog page for this model, and a pic of the stickers:
#6325
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https://www.ebay.com/str/cyclomondo?...75.m3561.l2563
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