Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#4452
Lapped 3x
Those are all methods for tight grips. For loose grips, the tub cement works well. If you put a small bead of it on the inside lip of the grip, it should get forced backwards as you slide it on, leaving no external mess. The hairspray one is also a good idea, as it sets up tacky and dry. 3M super 77 spray adhesive also works well if you can act fast enough.
#4453
Lapped 3x
Roger that.
I have some used bars coming and if they show up by this weekend, I'll give it a try.
Any tips on painting? Since it's carbon, then I'm only limited to wet paint, no sense in trying to powdercoat, right?
I think painting the curved bars might be over my head. Black with clearcoat is probably idiot-proof
I have some used bars coming and if they show up by this weekend, I'll give it a try.
Any tips on painting? Since it's carbon, then I'm only limited to wet paint, no sense in trying to powdercoat, right?
I think painting the curved bars might be over my head. Black with clearcoat is probably idiot-proof
The old adage of "two light coats are better than one heavier coat" is truest when dealing with clearcoats. Really pay attention to the application instructions. Some have varying degrees of "distance" that you can shoot from. Painting curved surfaces isn't that hard as long as you are consistently spraying at (relatively) perpendicular angles to the surface once you have laid down a base coat and allowed it to "tack". The base coat can be really light, and doesn't need to have full coverage (80-90% is good). It allows the droplets of subsequent coats something to grab and bond to. You alter the weight of a coat by how fast your pass over the object is (if you're rattlecanning it). Make sure that your passes go well past the object as you're sweeping side to side. It's at the end of a pass where people tend to slow down in anticipation of going back, and end up with runs because the paint goes on too thick. Edges/corners are the hardest parts to paint. so be careful at the edges. Again, going light, many times is what helps here.
Use some corks with eye hooks in the ends of the bars to suspend the bars. Suspend from both sides, as you don't want something spinning in a manner that isn't allowing you to coat evenly. 3-4 LIGHT coats should do it.
#4454
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times
in
77 Posts
Either way (paint w/clear, or clear only), it's the clearcoat that will give you any problems if you have any. If you get any runs in the paint, you can always to to buff it down and get it smooth again. With clearcoat, this is tougher to fix.
The old adage of "two light coats are better than one heavier coat" is truest when dealing with clearcoats. Really pay attention to the application instructions. Some have varying degrees of "distance" that you can shoot from. Painting curved surfaces isn't that hard as long as you are consistently spraying at (relatively) perpendicular angles to the surface once you have laid down a base coat and allowed it to "tack". The base coat can be really light, and doesn't need to have full coverage (80-90% is good). It allows the droplets of subsequent coats something to grab and bond to. You alter the weight of a coat by how fast your pass over the object is (if you're rattlecanning it). Make sure that your passes go well past the object as you're sweeping side to side. It's at the end of a pass where people tend to slow down in anticipation of going back, and end up with runs because the paint goes on too thick. Edges/corners are the hardest parts to paint. so be careful at the edges. Again, going light, many times is what helps here.
Use some corks with eye hooks in the ends of the bars to suspend the bars. Suspend from both sides, as you don't want something spinning in a manner that isn't allowing you to coat evenly. 3-4 LIGHT coats should do it.
The old adage of "two light coats are better than one heavier coat" is truest when dealing with clearcoats. Really pay attention to the application instructions. Some have varying degrees of "distance" that you can shoot from. Painting curved surfaces isn't that hard as long as you are consistently spraying at (relatively) perpendicular angles to the surface once you have laid down a base coat and allowed it to "tack". The base coat can be really light, and doesn't need to have full coverage (80-90% is good). It allows the droplets of subsequent coats something to grab and bond to. You alter the weight of a coat by how fast your pass over the object is (if you're rattlecanning it). Make sure that your passes go well past the object as you're sweeping side to side. It's at the end of a pass where people tend to slow down in anticipation of going back, and end up with runs because the paint goes on too thick. Edges/corners are the hardest parts to paint. so be careful at the edges. Again, going light, many times is what helps here.
Use some corks with eye hooks in the ends of the bars to suspend the bars. Suspend from both sides, as you don't want something spinning in a manner that isn't allowing you to coat evenly. 3-4 LIGHT coats should do it.
I'll let you know how it goes.
#4455
Senior Member
Those are all methods for tight grips. For loose grips, the tub cement works well. If you put a small bead of it on the inside lip of the grip, it should get forced backwards as you slide it on, leaving no external mess. The hairspray one is also a good idea, as it sets up tacky and dry. 3M super 77 spray adhesive also works well if you can act fast enough.
#4456
Lapped 3x
Actually, they are just tight enough that I had to use more than just an inside bead on the grip, I had to have some on the bar to provide some lube, and that made a big mess. Just in the grip was not enough to keep it sliding. Can anyone confirm that hairspray works with Yoshida Champ grips? These things are a PITA!
#4457
Senior Member
#4458
Senior Member
Hairspray has worked for me on 3 sets of PRO & 3T bars with the 3mm champs. Getting the Soyo grips on my BT barsbars was a different thing. Had to really soak those!
#4459
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hey, guys! I am interested in buying this aluminium Argon 18 track frame (I think 2011 model).
Does anyone have any experience with that? Any problem/difficulty to report?
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone have any experience with that? Any problem/difficulty to report?
Thanks in advance.
#4460
Senior Member
For what it's worth, that looks a lot like the Bianchi frame. I think they're calling it the Super Pista these days. I had the previous version, the Pista Concept, and it was a good frame. The main complaint on my version was with the seatpost clamp, but I never had a problem. I don't have any experience with the new version.
I say, if it fits and the price is right, go for it!
PI
I say, if it fits and the price is right, go for it!
PI
#4461
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
For what it's worth, that looks a lot like the Bianchi frame. I think they're calling it the Super Pista these days. I had the previous version, the Pista Concept, and it was a good frame. The main complaint on my version was with the seatpost clamp, but I never had a problem. I don't have any experience with the new version.
I say, if it fits and the price is right, go for it!
PI
I say, if it fits and the price is right, go for it!
PI
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/11...g?v=1468554010
I have seen the seatpost clamp and it is single-bolted. I am not quite heavy (73 kg) but tilting and slinding seatpost are a nigthmare, overall in very tight bankings.
Thanks for replying and for the info.
#4462
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Qc,Canada
Posts: 159
Bikes: Felt TK FRD
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 59 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The 3D headset cap require a special tool to tighten/remove it.
#4463
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 152
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
4 Posts
Training a bit more nowadays and am after a computer to track workouts.
Knowing nothing about computers as I don't even use one on my roady, is there anything that will track speed/cadence and keep a file that isn't a full on Garmin XYZ. I've found the wahoo blue sc which should do both, but I don't know if it keeps a file and would prefer not to have my phone with me on track.
Any information/opinions appreciated
Knowing nothing about computers as I don't even use one on my roady, is there anything that will track speed/cadence and keep a file that isn't a full on Garmin XYZ. I've found the wahoo blue sc which should do both, but I don't know if it keeps a file and would prefer not to have my phone with me on track.
Any information/opinions appreciated
#4465
Senior Member
Training a bit more nowadays and am after a computer to track workouts.
Knowing nothing about computers as I don't even use one on my roady, is there anything that will track speed/cadence and keep a file that isn't a full on Garmin XYZ. I've found the wahoo blue sc which should do both, but I don't know if it keeps a file and would prefer not to have my phone with me on track.
Any information/opinions appreciated
Knowing nothing about computers as I don't even use one on my roady, is there anything that will track speed/cadence and keep a file that isn't a full on Garmin XYZ. I've found the wahoo blue sc which should do both, but I don't know if it keeps a file and would prefer not to have my phone with me on track.
Any information/opinions appreciated
#4466
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times
in
77 Posts
pierrej, as for a head unit, my favorite now is the SRM PowerControl 7 (even if you don't have power meter cranks).
It's a little pricey, but you get all of your data and it records every 0.5".
Here's a good thread on the subject of bike computers in general: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cyc...computers.html
#4467
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,569
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1851 Post(s)
Liked 678 Times
in
429 Posts
Personally I would recommend that version of the Argon 18 Electron frame over the newer version. The old one has the round (guessing 27.2mm) seatpost and dosen't have the 3D headset gimmick of more recent Argon 18 frame.
The 3D headset cap require a special tool to tighten/remove it.
The 3D headset cap require a special tool to tighten/remove it.
#4468
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Personally I would recommend that version of the Argon 18 Electron frame over the newer version. The old one has the round (guessing 27.2mm) seatpost and dosen't have the 3D headset gimmick of more recent Argon 18 frame.
The 3D headset cap require a special tool to tighten/remove it.
The 3D headset cap require a special tool to tighten/remove it.
Newer alux frame (no 3D headset and not very trustable aero seatpost):
https://racycles.azureedge.net/asset...ctron_16_1.jpg
Carbon frame (3D headset):
https://bikesandbeyond.ca/images/libr...frame_12_z.jpg
Thanks for the reply!
Last edited by Franklin27; 10-11-17 at 08:10 AM.
#4469
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the reply, man!
#4470
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 152
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
4 Posts
$1.99
pierrej, as for a head unit, my favorite now is the SRM PowerControl 7 (even if you don't have power meter cranks).
It's a little pricey, but you get all of your data and it records every 0.5".
Here's a good thread on the subject of bike computers in general: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cyc...computers.html
pierrej, as for a head unit, my favorite now is the SRM PowerControl 7 (even if you don't have power meter cranks).
It's a little pricey, but you get all of your data and it records every 0.5".
Here's a good thread on the subject of bike computers in general: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cyc...computers.html
Quick look around has resulted in a Cannondale road pm and pc5 for only a little more than a bare pc7. Having a compatible Cannondale roady does make it a tempting proposition if I can just swap the head unit between bikes when needed.
Cheers for the info regardless
#4471
Elitist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 15,965
Mentioned: 88 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1386 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times
in
77 Posts
I'll grab that app whenever I pick something up. Do you happen to know if a PC5 would function in a similar manner to the 7?
Quick look around has resulted in a Cannondale road pm and pc5 for only a little more than a bare pc7. Having a compatible Cannondale roady does make it a tempting proposition if I can just swap the head unit between bikes when needed.
Cheers for the info regardless
Quick look around has resulted in a Cannondale road pm and pc5 for only a little more than a bare pc7. Having a compatible Cannondale roady does make it a tempting proposition if I can just swap the head unit between bikes when needed.
Cheers for the info regardless
PC7 is ANT+ wireless and works like any other ANT+ cycling computer. You get: speed, cadence, HR, altitude, distance, and/or power all in a file that you can analyze in SRM software or most popular tools (like Strava, Golden Cheetah).
Unless you know what you are getting into with the PC5, I would advise you to pass on it. It's basically old gear using old tech. If it were free, cool. But, don't spend good money on someone else's old tech. That guy is simply gonna take your money and buy a PC7 or PC8