GoJacob

Hello everone,

I'm back... and with a couple of new problems. How is the axle suppose to fit into the front dropouts?
Is the actual axle supposed to be shorter than the fork dropouts (which would mean the fork rests on the QR skewer), then the quick release is used to tighten it down?
Or is the fork suppose to fit over the actual axle (ends)?
Well, if the former is true, my axles are too long and my fork is coming down over the axle.
But, if the latter is true, my fork's dropouts are not wide enough ("open" enough) to accept the axle and I have to spread the fork to get it on the outside of the axle.
I hope this is making sense.
I'm a touch lost on why my fork gets "stuck" on the axle and I can't "quickly" release the wheel.

Sheldon Brown's website is not working for me right now (nor has it been working for the past week or so) so I couldn't even look up proper pictures. Hmmph. thanks

ultraman6970

wonder what bike u have and secondly, the frame and fork are straight? if it is an old low end steel bike probably doesnt matter at all.

google: front wheel axle + road fork

darn im super drunk...

nites

GoJacob

it's an old (the one i've been talking about too much around here) nishiki international. The frame and fork is of excellent quality and, as far as I can tell, is perfectly straight. The wheels were replacement 700c from the original 27", so i'm thinking this has something to do with the axle issue.

MattP.

The axle should be shorter than the outer diameter of the fork blades., but longer than the inside diameter. That is so when you clamp down the QR, the blades can be compressed on the hub itself.

You have a pic?

Retro Grouch 

Did your bike used to have a bolt-on front wheel? If that's the case, your new quick release axle is probably a little fatter. A little judicious use of a file will make it work.

GoJacob

the bike is from the mid 70's so i'm assuming it had bolt on wheels. excellent information!
is it safe to file the dropouts? so, the axle diameters are all the same?
thank you

Retro Grouch 

I converted al old Raleigh Grand Prix to QR that way and rode it for several years with no problems at all. That's 1 for 1 but YMMV.

GoJacob

i'm assuming it would be okay. when i go to my bikeshop to pickup new axles/cones/nuts, I'll ask their opinion on the issue as well. I appreciate your experience and input.

GoJacob

i don't have a camera as of yet, but i'm going to borrow my ex girlfriend's digital one.

my axles stick out beyond the fork ends... which indicates that they are too long. I remember asking the LBS if they could cut them down and they said they just do a whole hub overhaul with new axles/cones and whatnot. I never asked any further, but i'm assuming they come in different lengths? or they cut them down right there before installing? PS, they said it costs anywhere from $15-20 per hub to do an overhaul, is this price reasonable? or should i just get the materials and do it myself? (i'm more than capable, but a bike shop will probably do a better job)

cny-bikeman

Absolutely due to the fork being designed for nutted ("bolt-on") wheels. Perfectly OK to file to allow Q/R, but be sure to file the same (front of dropout or rear) on both fork blades. Sometimes you can cheat a Q/R on if the axle is slotted for a lockwasher by turning it such that the slot is next to the fork blade.