Maybe I bought the wrong bike?
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 5,585
Bikes: 2017 Colnago C-RS, 2012 Colnago Ace, 2010 Giant Cypress hybrid
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 408 Post(s)
Liked 122 Times
in
85 Posts
If you decide to have a professional bike fit done, or are thinking of having one done, also check out the Retul system. It's a 3D, real time laser/LED fitting system like the GURU system and is done very similarly. It's another option in the event you don't have a GURU fitter in your area. The major difference between the two systems is that you are on your bike (mounted in a special bike trainer) when getting a Retul fit and GURU uses a bike emulator.
__________________
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe ... Ride Hard ... Ride Daily
2017 Colnago C-RS
2012 Colnago Ace
2010 Giant Cypress
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe ... Ride Hard ... Ride Daily
2017 Colnago C-RS
2012 Colnago Ace
2010 Giant Cypress
#27
... part of the machine.
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Central New Jersey
Posts: 210
Bikes: '15 Raleigh Willard 2, '14 Lynskey Sportive, '10 Lynskey R230, '?? Burley Duet Tandem, various others in various states of mobility.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
53 here ... I have arthritis in my neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, back and ankles ... knees have been replaced, so they're fine.
I ride year round ... once I got back on the bike from knee replacements, because I don't want to go through my joints getting used to my riding position again ... very annoying. I ride 5-6 days a week. I just did a 200k last weekend. I ride a bike with drop bars, and a road bike with straight bars/w bar ends.
I have the same issues you speak of. I found my body got used to the longer distances slowly. Over many weeks.
One other thing to know ... aluminum is the worst frame material for aching joints, because as a frame material, it is the least forgiving to road vibration. Your steel frame gives your body a much smoother ride. I gave up on aluminum years ago (for anything over 20 miles). I have both steel and titanium framed bikes, and I ride them without any residual joint pain.
Your body should get used to the position in time. Take the time to allow your body to adjust, working up to longer rides. If it's anything to do with the bike, it's likely the frame material.
I ride year round ... once I got back on the bike from knee replacements, because I don't want to go through my joints getting used to my riding position again ... very annoying. I ride 5-6 days a week. I just did a 200k last weekend. I ride a bike with drop bars, and a road bike with straight bars/w bar ends.
I have the same issues you speak of. I found my body got used to the longer distances slowly. Over many weeks.
One other thing to know ... aluminum is the worst frame material for aching joints, because as a frame material, it is the least forgiving to road vibration. Your steel frame gives your body a much smoother ride. I gave up on aluminum years ago (for anything over 20 miles). I have both steel and titanium framed bikes, and I ride them without any residual joint pain.
Your body should get used to the position in time. Take the time to allow your body to adjust, working up to longer rides. If it's anything to do with the bike, it's likely the frame material.
#28
Senior Member
Saying that your knees are fine made me laugh. I've been told that I'll need a hip replacement one of these years. I hope I can say the same about it!
#29
... part of the machine.
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Central New Jersey
Posts: 210
Bikes: '15 Raleigh Willard 2, '14 Lynskey Sportive, '10 Lynskey R230, '?? Burley Duet Tandem, various others in various states of mobility.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Check out my training at:<https://www.facebook.com/tekkneescycling>
I highly recommend joint replacement ... if needed!
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 314
Bikes: early 80's steel 12speed, CAAD10-3 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
53 here ... I have arthritis in my neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, back and ankles ... knees have been replaced, so they're fine.
I ride year round ... once I got back on the bike from knee replacements, because I don't want to go through my joints getting used to my riding position again ... very annoying. I ride 5-6 days a week. I just did a 200k last weekend. I ride a bike with drop bars, and a road bike with straight bars/w bar ends.
I have the same issues you speak of. I found my body got used to the longer distances slowly. Over many weeks.
One other thing to know ... aluminum is the worst frame material for aching joints, because as a frame material, it is the least forgiving to road vibration. Your steel frame gives your body a much smoother ride. I gave up on aluminum years ago (for anything over 20 miles). I have both steel and titanium framed bikes, and I ride them without any residual joint pain.
Your body should get used to the position in time. Take the time to allow your body to adjust, working up to longer rides. If it's anything to do with the bike, it's likely the frame material.
I ride year round ... once I got back on the bike from knee replacements, because I don't want to go through my joints getting used to my riding position again ... very annoying. I ride 5-6 days a week. I just did a 200k last weekend. I ride a bike with drop bars, and a road bike with straight bars/w bar ends.
I have the same issues you speak of. I found my body got used to the longer distances slowly. Over many weeks.
One other thing to know ... aluminum is the worst frame material for aching joints, because as a frame material, it is the least forgiving to road vibration. Your steel frame gives your body a much smoother ride. I gave up on aluminum years ago (for anything over 20 miles). I have both steel and titanium framed bikes, and I ride them without any residual joint pain.
Your body should get used to the position in time. Take the time to allow your body to adjust, working up to longer rides. If it's anything to do with the bike, it's likely the frame material.
After reading the advice here, in addition to doing a bunch more measurements, I see that (1) I probably do need some time to adjust since the bikes are not the same and (2) I need to watch my technique as I may be doing things quite differently with the shifters on the brakes than I do with my steel (like spending more time on the hoods) and on longer rides make sure I take some time to take breaks from doing that
#31
Galveston County Texas
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: In The Wind
Posts: 33,219
Bikes: 02 GTO, 2011 Magnum
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1349 Post(s)
Liked 1,243 Times
in
621 Posts
All of my bikes are aluminum.
For a softer ride lower the tire PSI.
For a softer ride lower the tire PSI.
__________________
Fred "The Real Fred"
Fred "The Real Fred"
#32
Senior Member
It is adjustment that is the problem. When I first went road I had a similar problem with the neck but due to the position and not a medical problem. Took a while but I spent parts of the ride adjusting position to ease the neck and also kept moving the neck around tso it did not get set in one position. I suggest you do shorter more frequent rides and hope the neck will adjust-But also take time to e "Exercise" the neck in those rides.
#33
Rides Majestic
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Westfield, MA
Posts: 1,339
Bikes: 1983 Univega Gran Turismo, 1970 Schwinn Super Sport, 2001 Univega Modo Vincere, Self-Built Nashbar Touring, 1974 Peugeot U08, 1974 Atala Grand Prix, 1986 Ross Mt. Hood, 80's Maruishi MT-18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
There is a lot of difference in the geometry of a modern road bike like the CAAD and the 30yo bike you've been used to.
The most significant question I can ask is: What is the saddle to handlebar height difference on the CAAD compared with your old bike? Put them side by side and check.
If you bought the bike off the floor, and if it's anything like all the road bikes I've seen on LBS floors, the steerer tube has been cut right down so there is almost no stack height to play with. The LBS has tried to overcome this with a shorter stem, but that might not be a good solution at all. What you actually need might be a new fork with the steerer tube uncut until you find the best height with the original length stem for your comfort.
The most significant question I can ask is: What is the saddle to handlebar height difference on the CAAD compared with your old bike? Put them side by side and check.
If you bought the bike off the floor, and if it's anything like all the road bikes I've seen on LBS floors, the steerer tube has been cut right down so there is almost no stack height to play with. The LBS has tried to overcome this with a shorter stem, but that might not be a good solution at all. What you actually need might be a new fork with the steerer tube uncut until you find the best height with the original length stem for your comfort.
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 314
Bikes: early 80's steel 12speed, CAAD10-3 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Weekend update
Sat I went over the 2 bikes and did my best to match things. The seat to stem was about the same but I felt that the old bike seat to ground was just a tad less maybe 1-1.5 cm (1/2 inch). So I lowered the seat to be similar. Sunday I went on 2hr ride. My neck was stiff all this week so it was stiff even at the beginning of the ride but I also tried my best to change positions etc as suggested by many here. I was really no worse (or not much worse) after the ride and this morning feels actually better than it did Sunday morning when I got up so I'm going to call it a success. Now we'll see what happens on longer rides when/if I can get to them. I should take my old bike on a longer ride too since I think some of the stiffness has nothing to do with the bike now (originally there was a problem) and it may be just me
Sat I went over the 2 bikes and did my best to match things. The seat to stem was about the same but I felt that the old bike seat to ground was just a tad less maybe 1-1.5 cm (1/2 inch). So I lowered the seat to be similar. Sunday I went on 2hr ride. My neck was stiff all this week so it was stiff even at the beginning of the ride but I also tried my best to change positions etc as suggested by many here. I was really no worse (or not much worse) after the ride and this morning feels actually better than it did Sunday morning when I got up so I'm going to call it a success. Now we'll see what happens on longer rides when/if I can get to them. I should take my old bike on a longer ride too since I think some of the stiffness has nothing to do with the bike now (originally there was a problem) and it may be just me
#35
Senior Member
The correct measurement is seat to bottom-bracket, since that determines knee extension. Your seat height may be off by ~3-10 mm if the bottom brackets are at different heights.
#36
Senior Member
The crank length will determine seat height. And if the crank length is different between the two bikes, the seat height from BB-spindle will be slightly different.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JamesInSJ
Road Cycling
17
10-21-14 10:05 AM
lsberrios1
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
20
10-29-12 12:03 PM
Andy Somnifac
Road Cycling
23
04-26-11 05:39 AM