Rocker dropouts
02-10-20, 01:51 PM
#1
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Rocker dropouts
Have a project coming up that will use Rocker drop outs. I've been studying them and as I'm still pretty new to this, I've been trying understand just how to set these up in a fixture. What are used to align the dropouts? There doesn't seem like a way to do it without the inserts but even then the DS is threaded. I'm certainly missing something, but not sure what it is.
Info on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Brandon
Info on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Brandon
02-10-20, 03:24 PM
#2
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I don't think there is a way absent the inserts. If you are worried about heat control, put a wet rag around them
02-10-20, 08:38 PM
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You need to use the inserts with a dummy axle installed. The drive side being threaded is not an issue. It will be obvious when you have the parts and the dummy axle in hand. In order to align the dropouts with each other, I push the rockers all the way forward with the dummy axle installed and only tightened on one side. I set the dummy axle on a 123 block on a relatively flat surface and align the chainstay ends of the frame part with the flat surface. When the chainstay ends are aligned and the dummy axle is flat on the 123 block, I tighten the other side of the dummy axle to hold them in alignment.
You only need the inserts in place until you have the dropouts tacked. With TIG, it doesn't effect the inserts at all. A torch might discolor the anodizing. The inserts are the cheap part, so you could buy a sacrificial set.
BTW- buy the titanium bolt kit with the dropouts. The steel ones that come with the dropouts are not capable of withstanding the necessary torque to prevent slipping of the insert without rounding out the hex in the bolt.
You only need the inserts in place until you have the dropouts tacked. With TIG, it doesn't effect the inserts at all. A torch might discolor the anodizing. The inserts are the cheap part, so you could buy a sacrificial set.
BTW- buy the titanium bolt kit with the dropouts. The steel ones that come with the dropouts are not capable of withstanding the necessary torque to prevent slipping of the insert without rounding out the hex in the bolt.
02-11-20, 11:01 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
You need to use the inserts with a dummy axle installed. The drive side being threaded is not an issue. It will be obvious when you have the parts and the dummy axle in hand. In order to align the dropouts with each other, I push the rockers all the way forward with the dummy axle installed and only tightened on one side. I set the dummy axle on a 123 block on a relatively flat surface and align the chainstay ends of the frame part with the flat surface. When the chainstay ends are aligned and the dummy axle is flat on the 123 block, I tighten the other side of the dummy axle to hold them in alignment.
You only need the inserts in place until you have the dropouts tacked. With TIG, it doesn't effect the inserts at all. A torch might discolor the anodizing. The inserts are the cheap part, so you could buy a sacrificial set.
BTW- buy the titanium bolt kit with the dropouts. The steel ones that come with the dropouts are not capable of withstanding the necessary torque to prevent slipping of the insert without rounding out the hex in the bolt.
You only need the inserts in place until you have the dropouts tacked. With TIG, it doesn't effect the inserts at all. A torch might discolor the anodizing. The inserts are the cheap part, so you could buy a sacrificial set.
BTW- buy the titanium bolt kit with the dropouts. The steel ones that come with the dropouts are not capable of withstanding the necessary torque to prevent slipping of the insert without rounding out the hex in the bolt.
02-11-20, 11:32 AM
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The dummy axle has to match the dropouts (thru-axle or QR) and the intended hub (QR 135, 12x142, 12x148, etc). If you only have QR dummy axles, you could buy a sacrificial set of the cheaper silver QR inserts and switch them out for the Thru-axle version after the build is finished. The QR 135 and 12x142 are interchangeable.
02-11-20, 11:52 AM
#6
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The dummy axle has to match the dropouts (thru-axle or QR) and the intended hub (QR 135, 12x142, 12x148, etc). If you only have QR dummy axles, you could buy a sacrificial set of the cheaper silver QR inserts and switch them out for the Thru-axle version after the build is finished. The QR 135 and 12x142 are interchangeable.
Thank you! I've got 12x142 so no worries there.
02-13-20, 12:03 PM
#7
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Dsaul - Once you've mate the CS with the front triangle, how do you then align the dropouts? Or in your experience, have you needed too? I would guess that some aligning would be needed. Maybe not with this set up.
02-13-20, 07:34 PM
#8
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What type of alignment are you referring to? I usually keep the inserts in the full forward position, with the dummy axle installed, while I'm doing anything that requires the frame to be in the jig. If you're referring to H-tool type alignment, I've never had an issue that caused me to question the alignment and I don't own those tools. Some minor wheel alignment adjustment can be done by offsetting the inserts slightly. Generally, with thru axle dropouts, the alignment is correct or you have to cut one of the dropouts off and try again. Rockers are slightly more forgiving of slightly differing chainstay lengths, but there is no fixing seatstay problems without cutting tacks and shortening the longer stay.
