carlos danger

I wonder why people post reviews of wheels here if they have only used them for like 100km. why the f even do that. Even the shoddiest built wheels will do good in these circumstances. is this a surprise???

I'll give you my own review here:

currently i have exactly 66km on them and they are the best wheels in the history of humanity. probably the best wheels in the entire universe (known and unknown, all 64 lightyears of it in radius). no question about it!!

They're like circular, and spin round and round and all that crap. Man these are so awesome i can't believe it. best shxx ever!!.
darn! or something....

With that being said. i have put wheels on the stand that was so unbalanced in TENSION that its was almost like a joke. yet they were still round and still quite true.

So how can the common user evaluate wheels after 2 trips to the supermarket, and a sunday cruise? How the F is that even possible??
You tell me!

I'd say its not possible.

when you have at the very least 1000km on the wheels then and only then can you provide any "review" of the wheels at all imo. and this is a good point to take data. and then for the full review then you sample the wheels at 10k km aka 10000 (an extra 0 there). and even then, thats not even a long distance. i have only one bike that has done less than 10k km! and its fukn new-ish!!

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i'll give you a 10000km review of my own built wheels for my lynskey cooper cx that i use as my rainy commuter (since it has brass honjo fenders).

wheels:
they are round
they are true to about 0,1mm
wow.

1 spoke in the front lost tension somehow and one in the rear. about 2 values on the park tool tension scale. i corrected it.
super duper good wheels really. or just regular quality?



a wheel.

seau grateau

Cool.

Dean V

Very cool.

Seattle Forrest

I've been buying octagonal wheels, like a stop sign, but I tried a pair of round ones and oh my god this is such a huge step forward! Looks like you're using circular wheels, too. They're awesome!

Dean V

We need a review of those handlebars too.
Was thinking of a similar set up for my Colnago.

noodle soup

Reviewing a wheelset after a few hundred miles is fine, but it's way too soon to comment on longevity.

WTF did you do to that Colnago?

DrIsotope

While I understand the OP's sentiment, the delivery is a little over the top. I see plenty of capsule "reviews" where someone has used <insert item here> for a week or two, and posted something glowingly positive, because they're still deep inside the honeymoon phase.

I don't even start to seriously evaluate a product until it's been in service for at least 1,000 miles. That's the starting point, AFAIC. Getting out to 10,000+ is a much better indicator, but by then I've usually forgotten to write anything about it. Honestly, aside from quick-wearing items like tires and chains, most everything is well made enough. One of my current wheelsets has like 16,000 not-at-all-easy miles on them, no significant issues. They're round (mostly) and pretty well battered.

Abe_Froman

The OP seems, umm, angry.

MoAlpha

It’s the near complete subjectivity and lack of meaningful comparison to other products, which bugs me about bike gear reviews, amateur and pro. I don’t think time cures that ill.

WhyFi

ikr

noodle soup

I agree with you 100%. After a few hundred miles I give an initial impression of a product, but won't "review" most items until 3k miles.

If you look back at the Light Bicycle wheel thread started by @robbyville, you'll see that I asked him to review them at 3k miles.

Paul Barnard

You are just trying to impress us with your neat freakness aren't you?

shelbyfv

If I had to live somewhere like that, I'd probably be a little off kilter too. What a rat's nest. And the poor Colnago....

noodle soup

You would be angry too, if those were your bikes.

mstateglfr 

Platforms and dura ace.
Unique combo.

What is your lynskey wheelset build? Curious since you don't mention the parts used.

robbyville

I’ve got no issues with initial reviews so long as people identify them as such. Get pics of packaging if applicable, time to delivery if applicable, tensioned properly, yadda yadda. Then can offer updates or invite others to share/post gives you one nice encompassing thread.

carlos danger

you know what i did to it. you saw it even when i firt built it. and you loved it even back then too iirc.

bruce19

But, how long have you used them? How could you even know? Have you even tried the square ones?

Cyclist0108

I thought the power cord running through the pile of oily rags under it was a nice touch.

carlos danger

Here is one guy that gets what i'm trying to say.

its a bit to early to evaluate a part in like 100 miles/km for a road bike. UNLESS the part is severely flawed by design / severely used "outside its intended purpose" or has some very severe quality defect straight out of the factory.

parts simply dont break in 100 miles/km. unless they are very bad. and even at 1000km/miles most low quality stuff will still work just as intended.

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I'll give a real world example. My coworker got a Genesis croix de fer, complete bike, costed about 15-1700€ or so. I think it was the second best model.

*Then after using it for about 1 year and maybe 2000km the rear wheel started breaking spokes. and going of true severely. A complete de-tensioning was needed, with some new spokes. and also the nipples had glue in them so adjusting was a complete nightmare.

*Handlebar bent severely when bike was dropped once. way beyond practical use.. should be better imo.

*Headset starts wobbling/having play even though completely disassembled and greased/adjusted when recieved as new, and its getting worse and worse too (i personally tore the whole bike apart when new, 8h, to make sure it was good, and greased/lubed everything that needed it, including lubing inside the frame tubes). Headset will actually have to be replaced. with cane creek 10.

none of these problems had showed up at 100 miles or even 1000miles. But they all pretty much showed up at 2000km. all 3.

And now with in hand. if reviewing these parts at 1000miles or km they would all have seemed fine right... But in reality all these parts were really crappy parts. very very crappy parts. and that was with me going through them and lubing them and adjusting them after the factory had (not the wheels/spokes though). And i can tell you none and i mean none of the parts would have lasted for more than 2-3 months or so if i had not done that.

lets take the shimano "non series" hubs for instance. I think these were 105 or one level below 105; talking "shimano quality"; disc hubs. they had that translucent green crapola grease, like 1 microscopic blob per hub, and the hubs themselves were not adjusted at all. they were "assembled" though. one wheel was way way too tight and one had play, i cant really remember which one had what but it was a double fault there. And i guess only those 2 faults would have made the wheel bearings give up long before 1000km. For different reasons obviously.

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A couple of years ago I bought like 5 front and 5 rear slx disc hubs, and none of those would have been usable straight away. no way.

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I guess what I'm trying to say is that below 1000km/miles only they crappiest of stuff will actually break down or somehow prove themselves as "bad".
and lets say between 1000 and 3-4000 then the mid grade stuff will start showings its defects.
And the actual real quality control point should maybe be at 10000km/miles. Is everything working good then?? well, then its actually good.
Talking general bike stuff.

But with wheels you could for instance measure spoke tension and radial/axial runout after 1000km and then after 10k, thats quite a good quality stamp imo.

I guess many of you will try to misunderstand this on purpose in the most extreme ways but I think this is most explanatory way i can explain what i mean with this thread.

1000km/miles is not a a long way.......... yeah.

carlos danger

thank you. i live where it actually rains quite a bit. and i have bikes as my only form of transportation (yes its true), and it can get -25C or so now and then. so i have to put these rags under my bikes to soak up the water, or it will simply absorb into the floor. and the actual floor is the cheapest crap floor you can get. its wood looking plastic film on top of mdf/some other crap board. and it will very very easily be damaged by water. So i adapt to that. Btw "my house" is 20m2 in floor area. thats it. and it is a separate house. (and until i have about 500k€ or so laying around to buy something this is what i have to live in, its a brave new world.).

The extension cord is for my winter bike, to charge the lupine wilma. It needs charging every 2 days pretty much if you run it high-ish.

carlos danger

the lynskey is a cooper cx frame 1-1/8 frame. last one before conical HT tube.

the wheels are:

front: dt 240 6 bolt 32h, 180mm slx disc, dt comp 1,8-2,0 spokes, 12mm brass nipples, 3cross laced, dt xr400 rim (450g) i see that i have now misrepresented these as xr or xc440, i guess i should start reading the text). shwalbe marathon supreme 32mm tires.

rear: dt 240 6 bolt 32h, 160mm slx disc, dt comp 1,8-2,0 spokes, 12mm brass nipples, 3cross laced, dt tk540 all black rim (i actually went and read the sticker...) 550-560g or so. marathon supreme 35mm (real 37mm) these rims are quite thin width, they are basically unmachined touring rim brake rims so there is much metal in there to make up that weight.

Extras for the hub is the steel freehub option instead of alu (bikeman has these) and also the 36poe ratchets. i lube the ratchets with 100% molykote in the summer and 50-50 molykote - motor oil in the winter, otherwise they will simply lock up.

very good durable wheels imo. requires minimal, and i mean minimal service, and when service is needed it takes like 5 minutes since you can pop off the freehub with your hands, with the cassette still on it to expose the ratchets and relube/clean them.

I think these wheels weighed in at like 2-2100g in total. but dont quote me on that. i built them a long time ago.

They were also very easy to build.

noodle soup

Incorrect.

The one thing I liked about your conversion, was that you didn’t butcher the frame by filing off the shifter bosses.

carlos danger

needed them to fixate the zipties..

i now also have red zipties