Should I switch to J-Bend hub?
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Should I switch to J-Bend hub?
Riding a 2016 giant Defy advanced pro 2 that I have roughly 4k miles on.
I'm about 100kg and ride outside in summers and wheel on wahoo trainer in winters.
It's time to replace the bearings and I noticed the free hub has some relatively deep cuts in it as well so thought about having the shop replace it along with the bearings.
The cost isn't too far apart to consider switching to J-Bend. The shop said White Industries are decent if I wanted to get something better than stock.
1. Would anyone suggest switching to J Bend?
2. Suggestions on hubs to look at if switching?
I'm about 100kg and ride outside in summers and wheel on wahoo trainer in winters.
It's time to replace the bearings and I noticed the free hub has some relatively deep cuts in it as well so thought about having the shop replace it along with the bearings.
The cost isn't too far apart to consider switching to J-Bend. The shop said White Industries are decent if I wanted to get something better than stock.
1. Would anyone suggest switching to J Bend?
2. Suggestions on hubs to look at if switching?
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It’s rarely financially sensible to replace hub in a working wheel.
Buy a complete new wheel instead.
If you want specific recommendations, post your preferred budget.
Buy a complete new wheel instead.
If you want specific recommendations, post your preferred budget.
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For the Freehub gouging there are really only2 ways for fixing/eliminating this, either a steel freehub, or a bit guard, like the Novatech AGB ABG feature | N guide Once the gouging is there, it's not going away, would just use a file to smooth out what remaining metal there is left.
For switching to j-bend spokes, as dabac, this is new wheel time, anytime a hub needs to be replaced, your changing so many parts, that you effectively end up with a new wheel.
From a quick look at the specs of your bike, it looks (there is little info on this easily visible) to be from the pre-thru axle rear generation, something to be aware of when looking at wheels.
For switching to j-bend spokes, as dabac, this is new wheel time, anytime a hub needs to be replaced, your changing so many parts, that you effectively end up with a new wheel.
From a quick look at the specs of your bike, it looks (there is little info on this easily visible) to be from the pre-thru axle rear generation, something to be aware of when looking at wheels.
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Like many things, there are both benefits and costs of different types of technology.
J-Bend spokes are widely supported which is a plus.
Straight-Pull spokes are easier to replace in the field.
J-Bend hubs can be cheaply made in just about any desired drilling from 16h to 48h.
Straight Pull spokes may have a limited number of options, often 24h or 28h on the rear (or 21h).
I'd either repair what you have, or replace it with something similar.
J-Bend spokes are widely supported which is a plus.
Straight-Pull spokes are easier to replace in the field.
J-Bend hubs can be cheaply made in just about any desired drilling from 16h to 48h.
Straight Pull spokes may have a limited number of options, often 24h or 28h on the rear (or 21h).
I'd either repair what you have, or replace it with something similar.
#5
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You May, not Should ...
Reason cassettes have most of the cogs on a carrier in one piece ,
is because climbing against gravity, is what digs divots in driver splines ,
not going faster, against air resistance, so last 2 loose is deemed ok..
...
is because climbing against gravity, is what digs divots in driver splines ,
not going faster, against air resistance, so last 2 loose is deemed ok..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-30-19 at 09:53 AM.
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Thanks for the responses. Seems like the best option might be to just plug in new bearings and swap the freewheel for now. Then in the future after another season or two look into new rims the next time .