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Thread size for pedals

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Thread size for pedals

Old 10-16-18, 04:17 PM
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wgbatche
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Arrow Thread size for pedals

Hello, I have a Townie 7D. A recent accident tweaked the pedal (right side) just enough to screw up the threads on the crank arm. I have removed the pedal and would like to use a tap to clean the threads in the crank arm. It is the right pedal and I believe that is the "normal" (aka not reverse) thread. Anyone know what size tap and thread count to use?

Thanks,
William
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Old 10-17-18, 11:09 AM
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Velo Mule
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That should be a 9/16"-20 thread. I don't know how common that size is outside of bike shops. Oh, I see that Amazon has them. The left hand threads are more bike shop specific, however, Amazon has them too.

What did you do to mess up the threads? Did the pedal not come out cleanly? If the pedal is messed up, the threads in the crank arm should be fine. You will just need a new pedal.
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Old 10-17-18, 11:19 AM
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Thank you Velo! I have ordered a set (both right and left) from Amazon. I spent a lot of time at Ace and Lowes to no avail. Then online looking at "specialized" tool places. No luck there either. It was SO specialized, I did not even consider Amazon! Here is what happened. I was hit by a car. They turned in front of me away from the curb on my right. I am still sore and have a few scabs, but no broken bones or head impact. Since the impact was at a 45 degree hit, the bike was a little tweaked (handle bars and seat), but seems okay. As a result, the bike now has a slight "tick" when the pedal reaches the 12 o'clock position on the left side. I can feel it in my left foot, but not the right foot. As a result, I suspected it is in the pedal and not in the crank because I would more likely feel that in both feet. So to test this theory, I thought I'd try replacing the pedals. I could not rotate the pedal thought by hand to recreate it. I had to be in motion with some slight resistance (slightly up hill for example). The right pedal (which I don't believe is the culprit) was hard as heck to get off. The inside threads on the crank are messed up. Was this a result of the accident? I can't say. It could be that it was cross-threaded at the factory when it was built. Now I have a lingering question still about the "tick" AND a screwed up thread. So I have made things worse. Now I have some good taps coming from amazon to clean out the threads. I am fairly certain when I get this done, I will still have the damn tick :-). Then I will be back to my original mystery.
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Old 10-17-18, 11:43 AM
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When the bike was assembled, the technician should have put grease on the pedal threads. They sometimes don't do that. When there is steel threaded into an aluminum part, they can corrode together making it difficult to remove. This may be the source of the bad threads. It has happened to me as well. So, cleaning out the threads and applying grease to the pedal threads will be a good step to getting things back together properly.

As for the tick, you are probably right, it might still be there. Check to see if the crank is hitting something. It is not likely if it happening at 12 o'clock, but check anyway. Check for play in the crank. They let us know what you find.

Good luck. Feel better.
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Old 10-17-18, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by wgbatche
Thank you Velo! I have ordered a set (both right and left) from Amazon. I spent a lot of time at Ace and Lowes to no avail. Then online looking at "specialized" tool places. No luck there either. It was SO specialized, I did not even consider Amazon! Here is what happened. I was hit by a car. They turned in front of me away from the curb on my right. I am still sore and have a few scabs, but no broken bones or head impact. Since the impact was at a 45 degree hit, the bike was a little tweaked (handle bars and seat), but seems okay. As a result, the bike now has a slight "tick" when the pedal reaches the 12 o'clock position on the left side. I can feel it in my left foot, but not the right foot. As a result, I suspected it is in the pedal and not in the crank because I would more likely feel that in both feet. So to test this theory, I thought I'd try replacing the pedals. I could not rotate the pedal thought by hand to recreate it. I had to be in motion with some slight resistance (slightly up hill for example). The right pedal (which I don't believe is the culprit) was hard as heck to get off. The inside threads on the crank are messed up. Was this a result of the accident? I can't say. It could be that it was cross-threaded at the factory when it was built. Now I have a lingering question still about the "tick" AND a screwed up thread. So I have made things worse. Now I have some good taps coming from amazon to clean out the threads. I am fairly certain when I get this done, I will still have the damn tick :-). Then I will be back to my original mystery.
That tick is likely one of these:
crankarm hitting the front derailleur cage: adjust front derailleur
crankarm brushing against a cable: bend cable out of the way
chainring hitting chainstay: replace chainring
bent tooth on chainring: replace chainring
crankarm hitting chainstay: replace crankarm
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Old 10-17-18, 03:57 PM
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Quote: "That tick is likely one of these:
crankarm hitting the front derailleur cage: adjust front derailleur
crankarm brushing against a cable: bend cable out of the way
chainring hitting chainstay: replace chainring
bent tooth on chainring: replace chainring
crankarm hitting chainstay: replace crankarm"

Thanks, I went and checked all of these items and it does none appear to be the case. I turned the bike over so I could pedal it a bit, and I can feel it. It has nothing to do with the pedals either since I am not rotating those. It is always right about the 12 o-clock position, where the crank arms are not hitting anything for sure. No teeth appear bent, I moved the chain location, nothing. It really does appear to be from inside the crank. I could be one of the arms when it hit made a slight ding inside where the arm attaches, or a small dent inside the crank case itself. Lastly, and worse case, is a small ding in the crank housing - aka, the part of the frame itself where the crank and parts all sit. This will be a bear to figure out. I will be waiting on the new thread taps to fix the pedal installations. If I want to inspect/trouble shoot further myself, I will need a crank extractor tool. Might be time to just let a bike repair shop take over. It is really not that big of a deal, but it bugs me when something does not work right. I don't want to "get used to it" because it is such a small pop.
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Old 10-18-18, 03:40 PM
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May have Bent the Crank arm, in that accident , if the drive side, buy a whole new crank set - set..
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