Biker Pete 

I have a new-to-me pair of wheels with Mavic rims and large flange Campagnolo hubs, vintage 1973. Everything is in super fine condition. The wheels are going to replace the original wheels on my 1975 Motobecane Grand Record which I’m in the process of cleaning, greasing, and replacing/upgrading worn parts. The Campagnolo rear axle is a bit narrower than the original Normandy rear axle, 129mm vs 135mm, and I’m a bit concerned about chain clearance to the frame on the smallest cog with the Campy hub. So I’m looking for a longer rear axle for the Campy hub. The threads are different on the Normandy axle so I can’t just swap that one in. I see a multitude of 129mm quick release Campy rear axles for sale on eBay, but none longer. Are there longer Campy QR rear axles available somewhere?

I got some good info on this issue from an earlier thread

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-hub-axle.html

but I am looking for additional input from the group. Thanks in advance!

Andrew R Stewart 

I would find a Wheels Manufacturing replacement axle, cutting it to size if needed. There's no reason except preference to retain the Campy brand for an axle. I ran Campy NR hubs for a few decades and would set the drive side spacers just enough for chain/stay end clearance and filled the non drive side with spacers to make the dropout width, then dish the wheel to suit. Andy

Robvolz 

OK, this is easy.

Ge the kind with the curved QR lever. Replace it with the flat. Boom!!!

No other work is needed.

bktourer1

Try this place
https://www.loosescrews.com/

13ollocks

he’s looking for a QR axle (ie, hollow vs solid), not a QR skewer.

Biker Pete 

Thanks Andy. Couple of noob questions about the Wheels MFG axle:

When cutting to length, is it possible to hacksaw one end and not bugger up the threads?

Tightening locknuts without keyed washers is not problematic?

13ollocks

trick when cutting threaded stock is to put a couple of nuts on first - they essentially “chase” the threads as you unscrew them. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel would be better than a hacksaw - less likely to distort the threads.

mpetry912 

after cutting you can bevel the cut end. Yes, threading on a nut before is a good idea

the keyed washers are nice to have but not essential.

set the spacers to match your rear "over locknut" dimension.

/markp

smd4

Thread on two nuts, with the space between them the width of the hacksaw blade. A perfectly functional saw guide.

TiHabanero

When making the "saw guide" use the cones threaded on backwards and then lock the nuts against the cones. This will prevent the nuts from moving when the saw blade rubs up against them.
Generally speaking one can cut an axle close to square just by eyeballing it. The important thing to remember is to have a nut or two threaded on to the axle behind the cut so the nut(s) can be used as suggested by Andy as thread chaser(s).

Jeff Wills

Ditto to all of the above. A practical example:

A couple decades ago, I rebuilt a Campy C-Record to fit 135mm OLD spacing* with a Wheels Mfg. axle. After using it a while, I reconverted the hub to 126mm spacing in order to sell it. All I did was chop the axle with a hacksaw, reassemble the hub (less one spacer) and away it went.

* I build weird bikes. Always have.

Biker Pete 

Well, I got the bike back together (see my ‘First Ride’ thread) with new waxed chain and the chain DOES clear the frame on the smallest, 13-tooth freewheel cog, yippee! But unfortunately the chain cannot shift to the next larger 14-tooth cog because it binds in the frame making the jump, boooo! So indeed, a longer axle is needed. Until I get the axle issue sorted, I will adjust the derailleur so that it stops at the 14-tooth cog, making my 10 speed bike an 8 speed bike for the time being.

Thanks again one and all for your input, I am learning a lot!

Biker Pete 

Found a 134mm QR Campagnolo rear axle on ebay. So soon I will be able to use all five cogs on my freewheel. Yay!

Hondo6

OP: you indicated above that you're "asking noob questions".

Not trying to be insulting, but I'll ask an obvious question anyway - you did measure your frame's dropout spacing and your "new" Campagnolo hubs OLD distance and make sure they're compatible, didn't you? Because although I'm not a Campagnolo expert by any means, I seem to remember reading that 129mm was the axle length Campagnolo used for 120mm OLD hubs and 134mm was what they used for 126mm OLD hubs. (Shimano and some others used 131mm and 137mm, respectively.)

If your hub is 120mm OLD and the frame designed for 126mm, depending on how thick your rear dropouts are you may find that you need to add spacers to prevent the replacement axle from extending beyond the outer edge of the dropouts when the QR is clamped (the QR will compress the dropouts together until something solid stops it; by design that should be the hub's lock nuts, but an axle that is too long can do that prematurely). The axle end has to remain within the dropout for a QR to clamp properly.

I'll defer to those with more Campagnolo experience regarding what spacers are required and best way to distribute them if that turns out to be the case.

Biker Pete 

Yes, I will need spacers for the new, longer Campagnolo axle. I have a variety of spacers and it is looking like I will need 4mm of spacers to match the inside width of the rear dropouts. I will try a 4mm spacer on the drive side. This will essentially match the distance from the smallest freewheel cog to the drive side locknut on the original wheel and thus allow shifting between the two smallest freewheel cogs without the chain hitting the seat stay. That’s the plan at this point, anyway. New axle arrives in 2 days……

Hondo6

OK. Just wanted to make sure you knew about and were prepared for that possibility.

I'd personally try adding 2mm to each side first. That way, you shouldn't (in theory) need to re-dish the wheel. Plus, 2mm additional space on the DS might - or might not - be enough to let you shift on/off the smallest rear sprocket without frame contact.

Biker Pete 

Yes, good point about the dish. I’ll try both ways, thanks!

Dropouts are Campagnolo and I measure 7mm thickness so shouldn’t be any issues with axle extending too far for the QR.

Biker Pete 

New axle is great! Just needed a drive side 2mm shim and I’m good to go, the rim is centered in the frame so the dish is good, the large chainring is centered with cog 3 on the freewheel, and there is no binding of the chain shifting between the smallest freewheel cog and the next larger one. Time to put some more miles on this bike. And looking forward to installing the new FMB silk sew-ups!