tiger1964 

Left-hand thread seat tube... would that be French or Italian?

randyjawa 

I totally disagree, noglider. We get a bike or frame with a stuck post or stem and we struggle, after complaining, to get it unstuck. But when most of us, who have managed to find a clue, assemble a bicycle, we liberally grease both the post and the stem. That is what we are about, I think.

As for force. Hope some of us has learned - don't use it on a fragile vintage bike. Just cut the post or stem out and, if you want to use a power tool, be extra careful. You can easily damage an already very thin seat tube. For me, a hack saw blade, a pair of gloves and a half hour, yes only a half hour of work, and the offending stem or post is out. With no damage to anything except the stem or post...

noglider 

You're right, @randyjawa. And I just watched that RJ the bike guy's video, and I like his method the best. I've had a couple of badly stuck seatposts to deal with. I broke the seat stay off the seat lug, but it was on a cheap frame I got at a bike swap. On the other, I managed to get it free with lots of force and sweat. I would never use the lye method. It looks too dangerous. RJ's method looks achievable and accessible.

CliffordK

So far I've never had a "stuck" post. Knock on wood!!!

And, I don't grease.

Dropping flutes into the post clamp?

It seems to me like the issue with stuck posts has more to do with extreme abuse than the actual material. For example, leaving the bike out in the weather a lot (plus having flutes too far down).

However, I would draw the line at using Aluminum posts in a Carbon Frame. There is just no reason to do that when there are plenty of good Carbon posts.

I did pick up a used steel frame with a stuck post to play with... sometime. Maybe this spring/summer.

CliffordK

I bumped into this on E-Bay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUN-RIMS-ME...L/272417315174



Is this @sloar's hub?

Bad day out riding?

Actually, that hub is a bit of a puzzle. It appears to have a counter-clockwise twist.

Pedaling from the right would tend to give clockwise torque.
Braking from the left would tend to give clockwise torque.

Tossed a Derailleur into the spokes. Mangled the wheel, then rebuilt it the wheel with bent parts?

SurferRosa

Doesn't he have a few different methods? Which one did you like the best?

noglider 

This one.

SurferRosa

Cutting four slots with a power saw? Wo. I'm too risk averse.

Maybe two slots with a hand saw...

noglider 

Yeah I would do that part by hand. Maybe he gets a good feel through his power saw, but I've only used one of those once, so I wouldn't trust myself with it doing that.

P!N20

CliffordK

Dry posts
Never stuck (so far)

Occasional Zig-Zags which I blame on poor reaming/honing.

The posts might be moved every couple of years for adjustment, or to facilitate changing of a seat.



Aluminum posts in aluminum frames typically slide in well... much better than the old steel frames.

Jeff Wills

Getting a little off-topic, but... that White Industries cassette hub looks pretty normal to me. The hub is machined with a barrel that narrows close to the drive-side flange. I think you are being fooled by the reflection of the spokes in the polished aluminum.

CliffordK

If you read the linked ad, the seller's description:

It is also listed as:
The brake track looks clean, but it would with a disc wheel. Overall the photos look very clean. The freehub also looks very clean.

I'm sticking with the seller's interpretation that the hub has been twisted, but am quite unsure what could do that, or if the wheel would have been built with a bad component.

2cam16

You're a torque monster! lol
Sorry to see.

sharpywarpy

Did you not have any Drano?

jeirvine 

I hate those posts. That was the first thing I swapped out on my DX5000. Dumb design.

timtak

I seem to have a carbon post stuck in a carbon frame. I can't see an aluminum shim but perhaps there is something like that deep inside. What should I pour into the seat tube if it is just a carbon carbon?

The Bike Guy YouTube channel has a number of methods generally of removing aluminum seat-posts from steel frames where there has been galvanic corrosion of the aluminum.

1) Electric reciprocating saw like a giant jigsaw to cut the seat-post out (as mentioned earlier in this thread)

2) Slide Hammer (a lump of metal on a pole for pulling). I bought a 5lbs slide hammer, the biggest available here in Japan, and bent the hook on the end straight before I could remove the post after about 5 minutes of hammering with the bike suspended upside down. The Bike Guy did say that a 10lbs would be needed.

3) Impact wrench. Cut off the seat-post about 2 inches from the frame. Purchase a large socket that will fit over the cut seat-post and drill a hole (the Bike Guy drills two holes) through both the socket and the seat post and attach the socket with bolts. Then use an impact wrench to to bang-bang-bang-twist and turn the seatpost, breaking the interface and pull it out. The BIKE Guy's Wrench was rated at 200nm

I have purchased a 200nm impact wrench (a mere 15usd reduced), mains driven and a socket (10USD) that is big enough to go over the seatpost and had a local metal workshop drill a hole through it (for only 3USD. I couldn't drill into it with my hand held drill at all). replacement seatposts are about 25USD from aliexpress.

I can just about ride the bike but the seat post is rotated 180 degrees to give forward offset when I am now into rear offset because my doddery glutes need the exercise.

But I haven't pulled the trigger literally or figuratively. Will I be able to get the post out? If not, since I will have cut the post, I will not be able to ride the bike. I will have another look for aluminum shim and pour vinegar or ammonia in there first if there is a shim.

I moved this post to this thread from another since I see there is already discussion of The Bike Guy's methods on this thread.