Worst gearing of all time?
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Worst gearing of all time?
I'm setting up a new frame with economy in mind but hopefully without sacrificing too much performance for an everyday trainer. The question is: Do I dare put an 11 speed crankset on a 10 speed frame with a 9 speed freehub and an 8 speed cassette?
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I'm not sure frames have a "speed"... at least once one gets beyond 5/6 speed frames.
8/9/10 speed SHIMANO style freehubs are essentially all the same. And even using an 8/9/10 cassette on a 11 speed freehub isn't a problem when using an adequate spacer.
Exceptions are:
Shimano Dura Ace Aluminum freehubs (7800, 10 speed?) used a tall spline and weren't compatible with all cassettes.
Campagnolo, of course, was different, and perhaps other brands. SRAM XD?
You can go up a little bit with chain size, based on the Cassette. So, you should be fine using an 8 or 9 speed chain with the 8 speed cassette. I'd be more comfortable using a 10 speed crankset, but it would be worth trying the 11 speed crankset with 9 speed chain.
The 11s crank will probably work with the 9s chain, with a chance of rubbing in the small front, small rear cross-chained configuration.
I assume you're using 8-speed shifters, and an 8 or 9 speed rear derailleur?
It is possible you'll lose some index precision with the front, but it should be OK.
8/9/10 speed SHIMANO style freehubs are essentially all the same. And even using an 8/9/10 cassette on a 11 speed freehub isn't a problem when using an adequate spacer.
Exceptions are:
Shimano Dura Ace Aluminum freehubs (7800, 10 speed?) used a tall spline and weren't compatible with all cassettes.
Campagnolo, of course, was different, and perhaps other brands. SRAM XD?
You can go up a little bit with chain size, based on the Cassette. So, you should be fine using an 8 or 9 speed chain with the 8 speed cassette. I'd be more comfortable using a 10 speed crankset, but it would be worth trying the 11 speed crankset with 9 speed chain.
The 11s crank will probably work with the 9s chain, with a chance of rubbing in the small front, small rear cross-chained configuration.
I assume you're using 8-speed shifters, and an 8 or 9 speed rear derailleur?
It is possible you'll lose some index precision with the front, but it should be OK.
Last edited by CliffordK; 08-02-19 at 05:47 AM.
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As long as it's not 1x gearing it won't be the worst of all time.
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For the frame I just mean the dropouts are spaced for a 10s so I probably can't put an 11s cassette on it anyway. I bought used shifters that I think are for a 10 speed because I'll make everything but the crankset 10s at some point in the future. The only thing I don't have is a derailleur. If I get a 10S and set the limit screws really narrow I guess it shouldn't fail catastrophically, but it might mess up the indexing quite a bit. Any thoughts?
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For the frame I just mean the dropouts are spaced for a 10s so I probably can't put an 11s cassette on it anyway. I bought used shifters that I think are for a 10 speed because I'll make everything but the crankset 10s at some point in the future. The only thing I don't have is a derailleur. If I get a 10S and set the limit screws really narrow I guess it shouldn't fail catastrophically, but it might mess up the indexing quite a bit. Any thoughts?
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Sounds like someone needs a dose of Sheldon.
Check the first link in my tag, mate
Check the first link in my tag, mate
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There is some flexibility with derailleurs that don't match your target speed perfectly. But, the shifters determine how much it moves.
The sprocket spacing is different with different speeds. So, using an 8 speed cassette with 10 speed shifters generally won't work.
It may take a little studying charts, but this is a good guide about sprocket spacing, derailleur pulls, etc.
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycl...ing_Dimensions
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The worst gearing of all time is the gear you're in when the pack is slowly creeping away on an ascent or in a 35+ mph peloton with not enough shelter from a crosswind. Everyone can hear you trying to find a better gear and they dig in a little deeper to bury you
Sometimes it's done to you and sometimes you do it to someone else
Sometimes it's done to you and sometimes you do it to someone else
Last edited by nomadmax; 08-02-19 at 11:48 AM.
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This shows you really need to do some reading, as Kimmo suggested. Take an hour or two with Sheldon, the help given here will be more useful. Just to be clear, there is no such thing as 10 speed vs 11 speed dropout spacing. I hope you won't take this as snark, but you seem to be starting with a lot of wrong info and that makes it confusing for all. Good luck!
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2) A "10-speed frame" means 130mm hub spacing, which will take everything from 1 to 11 cogs in the back.
3) If your freehub will take a 9-speed cassette it will certainly take an 8-speed one.
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There are a bunch of different spacings.
120/126, vintage road, 5/6 speed, SS?
130/131, modern road QR 8/9/10/11 spd
135 MTB + cross + hybrid QR
141 Thru Axle?
140/145 Tandem?
A lot will depend on your hubs.
Others?
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Non omnino gravis
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They care what chain you're running; best not to try more than one speed difference, with a preference for the narrower chain as long as it doesn't bind on the chainrings. Go two or more sizes narrower, and the chain might be able to find a place between the rings, which is Bad. Too wide, and the chain will catch on the big ring towards small/small.
There are subtle distinctions at play, regarding changes to external and/or internal width from chain speed to chain speed too, it's a bit complicated.
And the shifter/FD combo needs to be pretty close to ideal for the crankset... Folks usually have both shifters from the same groupset.
There are subtle distinctions at play, regarding changes to external and/or internal width from chain speed to chain speed too, it's a bit complicated.
And the shifter/FD combo needs to be pretty close to ideal for the crankset... Folks usually have both shifters from the same groupset.
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They care what chain you're running; best not to try more than one speed difference, with a preference for the narrower chain as long as it doesn't bind on the chainrings. Go two or more sizes narrower, and the chain might be able to find a place between the rings, which is Bad. Too wide, and the chain will catch on the big ring towards small/small.
There are subtle distinctions at play, regarding changes to external and/or internal width from chain speed to chain speed too, it's a bit complicated.
And the shifter/FD combo needs to be pretty close to ideal for the crankset... Folks usually have both shifters from the same groupset.
There are subtle distinctions at play, regarding changes to external and/or internal width from chain speed to chain speed too, it's a bit complicated.
And the shifter/FD combo needs to be pretty close to ideal for the crankset... Folks usually have both shifters from the same groupset.