How is my planned budget 1x setup?
#1
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Thread Starter
How is my planned budget 1x setup?
I like 2x for hilly and mountainous areas to get keep tight cassette ratios, but it's incredibly flat in the Chicago area that I don't need much range. The goal is to reuse most of the existing 6800 hydraulic setup on my Diverge.
Only changes would be:
-Remove FD
-RX800 RD
-1x crankset: undecided
Would there be any issue using the left RS685 shifter to only actuate the brakes? I welcome any feedback on this setup.
Only changes would be:
-Remove FD
-RX800 RD
-1x crankset: undecided
Would there be any issue using the left RS685 shifter to only actuate the brakes? I welcome any feedback on this setup.
#2
Non omnino gravis
You can easily retain your current crankset, just put a narrow-wide ring on it. I've never run 1X with a dedicated 1X crank, and my chainring lines up with the 6th cog, right in the middle of my 11-speed cassette. Wolftooth probably the way to go for the NW ring, they make 'em up to 50T.
And yes, you can absolutely use the left shifter just for brakes. My first 1X setup used a 105 setup for levers, and I just ignored the vestigial shift levers. You can actually lock it out, by basically using a short length of shift cable, fastened so that the shift levers cannot be actuated. I've seen a YouTube video explaining the process, but it was several years ago.
And yes, you can absolutely use the left shifter just for brakes. My first 1X setup used a 105 setup for levers, and I just ignored the vestigial shift levers. You can actually lock it out, by basically using a short length of shift cable, fastened so that the shift levers cannot be actuated. I've seen a YouTube video explaining the process, but it was several years ago.
#3
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I like 2x for hilly and mountainous areas to get keep tight cassette ratios, but it's incredibly flat in the Chicago area that I don't need much range. The goal is to reuse most of the existing 6800 hydraulic setup on my Diverge.
Only changes would be:
-Remove FD
-RX800 RD
-1x crankset: undecided
Would there be any issue using the left RS685 shifter to only actuate the brakes? I welcome any feedback on this setup.
Only changes would be:
-Remove FD
-RX800 RD
-1x crankset: undecided
Would there be any issue using the left RS685 shifter to only actuate the brakes? I welcome any feedback on this setup.
You can easily retain your current crankset, just put a narrow-wide ring on it. I've never run 1X with a dedicated 1X crank, and my chainring lines up with the 6th cog, right in the middle of my 11-speed cassette. Wolftooth probably the way to go for the NW ring, they make 'em up to 50T.
And yes, you can absolutely use the left shifter just for brakes. My first 1X setup used a 105 setup for levers, and I just ignored the vestigial shift levers. You can actually lock it out, by basically using a short length of shift cable, fastened so that the shift levers cannot be actuated. I've seen a YouTube video explaining the process, but it was several years ago.
And yes, you can absolutely use the left shifter just for brakes. My first 1X setup used a 105 setup for levers, and I just ignored the vestigial shift levers. You can actually lock it out, by basically using a short length of shift cable, fastened so that the shift levers cannot be actuated. I've seen a YouTube video explaining the process, but it was several years ago.
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#4
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#5
Non omnino gravis
Unused shift paddle to actuate a dropper is great-- I wish I had thought ahead and bought Rival 22 HRD levers instead of the Rival 1 HRD I got, because my dropper routing would be even cleaner. The PNW Roadie Lever is great, but using the shifter that's already there would be even better.
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Probably. I got a 6700 GS to clear an 11-42 using a Roadlink, but the RD was definitely being asked to do more than it wanted too-- just not enough spring tension. I've no experience with the clutched RX800, but I imagine it should be better than a straight-up road derailleur designed for a 32T max.
Just ordered it.
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#7
Non omnino gravis
#8
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edit: Oh wait, the DM replaces the rd's stock mount. Got it.
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#9
Non omnino gravis
The direct mount actually replaces the top arm on the derailleur. With the regular one, the pivoty-bit on the RD connects to the Roadlink, so the parallelogram of the RD is now a bit wonky.
The regular Roadlink is a bit of a bodge, the direct mount is just a longer top arm for the RD, to clear bigger cogs.
The regular Roadlink is a bit of a bodge, the direct mount is just a longer top arm for the RD, to clear bigger cogs.
#10
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The direct mount actually replaces the top arm on the derailleur. With the regular one, the pivoty-bit on the RD connects to the Roadlink, so the parallelogram of the RD is now a bit wonky.
The regular Roadlink is a bit of a bodge, the direct mount is just a longer top arm for the RD, to clear bigger cogs.
The regular Roadlink is a bit of a bodge, the direct mount is just a longer top arm for the RD, to clear bigger cogs.
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#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You can easily retain your current crankset, just put a narrow-wide ring on it. I've never run 1X with a dedicated 1X crank, and my chainring lines up with the 6th cog, right in the middle of my 11-speed cassette. Wolftooth probably the way to go for the NW ring, they make 'em up to 50T.
And yes, you can absolutely use the left shifter just for brakes. My first 1X setup used a 105 setup for levers, and I just ignored the vestigial shift levers. You can actually lock it out, by basically using a short length of shift cable, fastened so that the shift levers cannot be actuated. I've seen a YouTube video explaining the process, but it was several years ago.
And yes, you can absolutely use the left shifter just for brakes. My first 1X setup used a 105 setup for levers, and I just ignored the vestigial shift levers. You can actually lock it out, by basically using a short length of shift cable, fastened so that the shift levers cannot be actuated. I've seen a YouTube video explaining the process, but it was several years ago.
Probably the biggest concern with reusing a 2x crankset would be chainline.
#13
Non omnino gravis
Well, if you have to buy a new crank anyway, might as well go with 1X. That FSA uses a truly asymmetric bolt pattern, it seems.
And again-- no real chainline issues with a 2X crankset. I've never used a dedicated 1X crank. My current crank is a Rotor 3D30, which replaced an FSA Gossamer. With the narrow-wide in the outer position, the chain is dead straight in the 6th cog.
And again-- no real chainline issues with a 2X crankset. I've never used a dedicated 1X crank. My current crank is a Rotor 3D30, which replaced an FSA Gossamer. With the narrow-wide in the outer position, the chain is dead straight in the 6th cog.
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Some chainrings offset chainline to center for 2x cranksets like sram and wolftooth. Others do not like raceface. I had problems with a raceface nw on a 2x shimano crank on a bike with short chainstays but not with a sram 5 bolt nw or dedicated 1x crankset
#15
Senior Member
Have you seen these chainrings? https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/t...inring-1x-3256
I was looking for 110mm ABS narrow wide chainrings for a road powerbox crank.
I was looking for 110mm ABS narrow wide chainrings for a road powerbox crank.
#16
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Thread Starter
Have you seen these chainrings? https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/t...inring-1x-3256
I was looking for 110mm ABS narrow wide chainrings for a road powerbox crank.
I was looking for 110mm ABS narrow wide chainrings for a road powerbox crank.
Edit: at $92 for a chainring it's more economical to sell my crankset and get a Force 1 instead. FSA's pricing has always been pretty steep.
https://www.fsaproshop.com/FSA_PRODU...370-0032017050
Last edited by vinuneuro; 08-05-19 at 09:02 PM.
#18
Non omnino gravis
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
At retail prices perhaps not. I purchased a new (takeoff?) Force 1 crankset today for $140. My SL-K light will fetch $100-150 on ebay.
In any case, budget was meant in the context of not getting a 'dedicated' 1x groupset a la Force 1 or GRX.
In any case, budget was meant in the context of not getting a 'dedicated' 1x groupset a la Force 1 or GRX.
#20
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Thread Starter
I probably will do just that but I don't see how this won't work out. It's so flat here I will be using an 11-28 cassette with a 38T ring. This should give me all I need given how much of the range I'm using in the current 50/34 + 11/32 setup.
https://ritzelrechner.de/?GR=DERS&KB=...25,28&UF2=2168
https://ritzelrechner.de/?GR=DERS&KB=...25,28&UF2=2168
#21
Senior Member
Thanks, I hadn't come across this. Do you know if it is offset slightly to correct the chainline for 1x?
Edit: at $92 for a chainring it's more economical to sell my crankset and get a Force 1 instead. FSA's pricing has always been pretty steep.
https://www.fsaproshop.com/FSA_PRODU...370-0032017050
Edit: at $92 for a chainring it's more economical to sell my crankset and get a Force 1 instead. FSA's pricing has always been pretty steep.
https://www.fsaproshop.com/FSA_PRODU...370-0032017050
There is someone selling some on ebay for about $52 shipped, by the way. I am waiting for FSA to get back to me after they test fit some on a Powerbox crank, but they did say they were specifically corrected for making the SL-K cranks 1x.
Last edited by jeffreythree; 08-05-19 at 09:37 PM. Reason: Edited for price changing when you click to buy