Are Drop bars just an illusion for most?
#451
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I don't measure my braking or cornering forces, what a silly question. But I see what you're doing.
The trigonometry problem I presented used numbers to illustrate that even when approaching the limits of traction, that braking in a turn is safe.
But your argument tactic is clear. You select the fact that those numbers that aren't being measured to discredit braking in a turn as a safe technique. It didn't work.
"Why brake in the turn? If all braking is done before the turn, speed will be slower than necessary before the apex. Anticipating maximum speed for the apex is difficult, and because the path is not a circular arc, speed must be trimmed all the way to that point. Fear of braking in curves usually comes from an incident of injudicious braking at a point where braking should have been done with a gentle touch to match the conditions." -- Jobst Brandt
The trigonometry problem I presented used numbers to illustrate that even when approaching the limits of traction, that braking in a turn is safe.
But your argument tactic is clear. You select the fact that those numbers that aren't being measured to discredit braking in a turn as a safe technique. It didn't work.
"Why brake in the turn? If all braking is done before the turn, speed will be slower than necessary before the apex. Anticipating maximum speed for the apex is difficult, and because the path is not a circular arc, speed must be trimmed all the way to that point. Fear of braking in curves usually comes from an incident of injudicious braking at a point where braking should have been done with a gentle touch to match the conditions." -- Jobst Brandt
Could you explain the whole cornering maths like you were explaining it to say, a complete layman? How exactly does it work out? I'm all ears.
#453
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When braking, there is a force generated on the tire-road interface that is in the direction of travel.
When turning, there is a force generated on the tire-road interface that is perpendicular to the direction of travel.
We call these two forces vectors, as they have each a value and a direction.
When both braking and turning, the resulting force at the tire-road interface is the sum of these two force vectors. But since the turning and braking vectors are perpendicular to each other, they can be combined using the Pythagorean Theorem (which should familiar to any high school student):
Where:
a = turning force
b = braking force
c = combined force
As I wrote in my example earlier, pick a turning force of a very substantial 0.9g, and the braking force a substantial 0.2g.
The combined force at the tire-road interface in this case is:
square root of [ cornering force squared + braking force squared ], or
SQRT[ 0.9^2 + 0.2^2 ] =
SQRT[ 0.81 + 0.04 ] =
SQRT[ 0.85 ] = 0.92
This example demonstrates that even when turning at 0.9 g, and braking with 0.2 g, the force at the tire-road interface only increases by 0.02g.
As shown, substantial braking can be done in a turn with very little increase in tire-road force, and thus the warning that braking in a turn substantially increases the risk of slipping out has no merit.
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Last edited by terrymorse; 09-19-19 at 12:59 PM. Reason: formatting
#454
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If I said "riding without hands is a good way to crash"
Is that saying "you will crash", if you ride without hands?
NO SIR it is not ! So Quit twisting words.
the same applies to handlebars, one way leaves your self open to a crash, it doesn't mean that you will crash.
2 groups of people, those who elect to ride drops on a dropbar, and those who claim "that is not my Drop bar!!!!"
Is that saying "you will crash", if you ride without hands?
NO SIR it is not ! So Quit twisting words.
the same applies to handlebars, one way leaves your self open to a crash, it doesn't mean that you will crash.
2 groups of people, those who elect to ride drops on a dropbar, and those who claim "that is not my Drop bar!!!!"
#455
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Okay, I'll try to explain it using only high school level math.
When braking, there is a force generated on the tire-road interface that is in the direction of travel.
When turning, there is a force generated on the tire-road interface that is perpendicular to the direction of travel.
We call these two forces vectors, as they have each a value and a direction.
When both braking and turning, the resulting force at the tire-road interface is the sum of these two force vectors. But since the turning and braking vectors are perpendicular to each other, they can be combined using the Pythagorean Theorem (which should familiar to any high school student):
Where:
a = turning force
b = braking force
c = combined force
As I wrote in my example earlier, pick a turning force of a very substantial 0.9g, and the braking force a substantial 0.2g.
The combined force at the tire-road interface in this case is:
square root of [ cornering force squared + braking force squared ], or
SQRT[ 0.9^2 + 0.2^2 ] =
SQRT[ 0.81 + 0.04 ] =
SQRT[ 0.85 ] = 0.92
This example demonstrates that even when turning at 0.9 g, and braking with 0.2 g, the force at the tire-road interface only increases by 0.02g.
As shown, substantial braking can be done in a turn with very little increase in tire-road force, and thus the warning that braking in a turn substantially increases the risk of slipping out has no merit.
When braking, there is a force generated on the tire-road interface that is in the direction of travel.
When turning, there is a force generated on the tire-road interface that is perpendicular to the direction of travel.
We call these two forces vectors, as they have each a value and a direction.
When both braking and turning, the resulting force at the tire-road interface is the sum of these two force vectors. But since the turning and braking vectors are perpendicular to each other, they can be combined using the Pythagorean Theorem (which should familiar to any high school student):
Where:
a = turning force
b = braking force
c = combined force
As I wrote in my example earlier, pick a turning force of a very substantial 0.9g, and the braking force a substantial 0.2g.
The combined force at the tire-road interface in this case is:
square root of [ cornering force squared + braking force squared ], or
SQRT[ 0.9^2 + 0.2^2 ] =
SQRT[ 0.81 + 0.04 ] =
SQRT[ 0.85 ] = 0.92
This example demonstrates that even when turning at 0.9 g, and braking with 0.2 g, the force at the tire-road interface only increases by 0.02g.
As shown, substantial braking can be done in a turn with very little increase in tire-road force, and thus the warning that braking in a turn substantially increases the risk of slipping out has no merit.
I suspect that there are a few more vectors involved as well.
Also the numbers are off which makes me heavily suspect the whole validity of Brandts expertise on the matter. Cornering at 0.9g's with a bicycle is unlikely if not impossible altogether. Racing motorcycles with specially formulated sticky hot tires on hot tarmac can reach 1g or even go just above it. However for a bicycle I'd say the theoretical maximum cornering force is below 0.8g's as that's within the typical coefficient of friction achieved with bicycle tyres on tarmac.
It's wholly beside the point but considering that brandts example rider would have wiped out before he ever touched the brakes just takes a good chunk of validity out of his argument.
#456
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Wrong. Braking inside of a turn is not an unsafe technique.
Stop perpetuating a myth.
Going slower is always a good idea, if you are unsure of your skills. But telling people never to brake in a turn is almost as dangerous as saying never to use the front brake, because you'll catapult yourself over the bars.
Stop perpetuating a myth.
Going slower is always a good idea, if you are unsure of your skills. But telling people never to brake in a turn is almost as dangerous as saying never to use the front brake, because you'll catapult yourself over the bars.
And, going slow isn't because one is unsure of skill - it is a skill. It's called critical thinking.
Your explanation (while entertaining in a theoretical semantic school physics exercise sense), lacks any application in the real world. As admitted, if you don't have an instrument to measure fractional G forces, talking about combining .9 and .2 (as your example) is just bafflegab. Not able to apply IRL. In real life, measuring actual grip vs potential remaining grip becomes more difficult the closer to the edge of performance one goes which is why... tires suddenly lose complete traction and slide out when cornering and trying to apply brakes. It's a failure of traction that is in a practical sense unpredictable at the small numbers you are making up out of your head.
The skill therefore, if one has a near miss while braking and cornering at the same time, would be to slow the rate of speed before the curve next time. Otherwise one would need to brake from the aerobars so you could work the calculator.
#457
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I think the OP is on to something here. I see lots of cyclists who just cannot get in the drops. IMO, I think this is because too many cyclists buy aggressive racing frames with short head tubes. People buy something like a CAAD or Allez, both of which are for racing, and wind up having to run a giant stack of spacers with the hoods tilted to the sky to get their bars in a somewhat reasonable position.
Even with these adjustments, many are forced to ride around 100% of their time on the hoods with locked out elbows and hunched shoulders. This looks like ****, it's uncomfortable and it reduces a rider's ability to safely handle their bike. More people should buy bikes with long head tubes and minimal saddle to bar drop. Get an endurance bike, a rando bike or even a touring bike. You'll be more comfortable and have a better ride. IMO, you should spend a good portion (if not the majority) of each ride in the drops with bent elbows. If you can't do that, the bike is too aggressive for you.
Side note: you even see the same thing in the pro ranks these days. I see pros all the time even PULLING on the front in World Tour races on the hoods with locked out elbows. I don't get it. When I was a kid in the 80s, pros were in the drops the vast majority of the time. No longer. Now, they set their bikes up ridiculously aggressively and then can't get in the drops.
Even with these adjustments, many are forced to ride around 100% of their time on the hoods with locked out elbows and hunched shoulders. This looks like ****, it's uncomfortable and it reduces a rider's ability to safely handle their bike. More people should buy bikes with long head tubes and minimal saddle to bar drop. Get an endurance bike, a rando bike or even a touring bike. You'll be more comfortable and have a better ride. IMO, you should spend a good portion (if not the majority) of each ride in the drops with bent elbows. If you can't do that, the bike is too aggressive for you.
Side note: you even see the same thing in the pro ranks these days. I see pros all the time even PULLING on the front in World Tour races on the hoods with locked out elbows. I don't get it. When I was a kid in the 80s, pros were in the drops the vast majority of the time. No longer. Now, they set their bikes up ridiculously aggressively and then can't get in the drops.
The main problem as several have alluded to, is obesity.
The average adult male in the U.S. has a waistline of over 40 inches, and weighs 200 lbs. Adult females in the US have almost caught up, nearly 39"!
The bottom line is that most Americans are way too fat to be riding in the drops.
Last edited by radroad; 09-19-19 at 02:11 PM.
#458
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What I don't understand about braking in corners is the effect that wants to make the bicycle go upright and which then causes the bicyclist to veer off the line they intend to go in. hat seems to be what causes crashes whilst braking and cornering at the same time. That's why braking in a corner is considered to be a high-skill and is not recommended for most bicyclists.
Cheers
Cheers
#459
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What I don't understand about braking in corners is the effect that wants to make the bicycle go upright and which then causes the bicyclist to veer off the line they intend to go in. hat seems to be what causes crashes whilst braking and cornering at the same time. That's why braking in a corner is considered to be a high-skill and is not recommended for most bicyclists.
Cheers
Cheers
The big issue in braking in a corner is misjudging and losing traction. There's only a certain total amount of traction available to our tires, and both cornering and braking need some of it.
I haven't followed this discussion so I don't really know how it came up, but having drop bars vs straight bars has no impact on how well the bike can take a corner, braking or otherwise.
#460
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I'll have to get back to this after I discuss it with a friend who's a math wiz but at first glance the formula seems too simplistic to factor in all relevant forces. Just the formulae for cornering forces without braking are much more advanced as are pure braking force calculations.
I suspect that there are a few more vectors involved as well.
Also the numbers are off which makes me heavily suspect the whole validity of Brandts expertise on the matter. Cornering at 0.9g's with a bicycle is unlikely if not impossible altogether. Racing motorcycles with specially formulated sticky hot tires on hot tarmac can reach 1g or even go just above it. However for a bicycle I'd say the theoretical maximum cornering force is below 0.8g's as that's within the typical coefficient of friction achieved with bicycle tyres on tarmac.
It's wholly beside the point but considering that brandts example rider would have wiped out before he ever touched the brakes just takes a good chunk of validity out of his argument.
I suspect that there are a few more vectors involved as well.
Also the numbers are off which makes me heavily suspect the whole validity of Brandts expertise on the matter. Cornering at 0.9g's with a bicycle is unlikely if not impossible altogether. Racing motorcycles with specially formulated sticky hot tires on hot tarmac can reach 1g or even go just above it. However for a bicycle I'd say the theoretical maximum cornering force is below 0.8g's as that's within the typical coefficient of friction achieved with bicycle tyres on tarmac.
It's wholly beside the point but considering that brandts example rider would have wiped out before he ever touched the brakes just takes a good chunk of validity out of his argument.
Centripetal force, ie momentum, is what causes the bike to go upright and pushes you wider. Your lean counters this force (as far as pushing you upright goes.)
The big issue in braking in a corner is misjudging and losing traction. There's only a certain total amount of traction available to our tires, and both cornering and braking need some of it.
I haven't followed this discussion so I don't really know how it came up, but having drop bars vs straight bars has no impact on how well the bike can take a corner, braking or otherwise.
The big issue in braking in a corner is misjudging and losing traction. There's only a certain total amount of traction available to our tires, and both cornering and braking need some of it.
I haven't followed this discussion so I don't really know how it came up, but having drop bars vs straight bars has no impact on how well the bike can take a corner, braking or otherwise.
Thanks for your reply.
Cheers
#461
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I've read of cases where a bicyclist brake hard in a corner and the bike straightened up vertically to such a point that the bicyclist lost the ability to turn and the bike and bicyclist went off the side of the road - sometimes with dire results. I still think that for most bicyclists any braking in a corner should be very gentle or even not at all depending on their level of skill.
Thanks for your reply.
Cheers
Thanks for your reply.
Cheers
But it's good to know how and have a bit of confidence in it, when you happen to find yourself at the bottom of a hill going way too fast and have to make that turn. I've been there.
#462
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#463
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What does happen: the turn radius gets smaller. This in itself is a useful technique, especially when you come around a blind right curve to find a car over the center line and encroaching into your lane. Grab some brake, tighten your turn radius, slip past the car on the right. I have use this method more times than I can remember.
You can demonstrate this radius shrinking effect to yourself: Go out in a parking lot, pedal around in a fairly tight circle, until you are leaning the bike over (but not enough to ground a pedal!) and traveling at a moderate speed. Now, grab some brake and watch what where your bike goes.
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#464
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That is not what happens when you brake in the middle of a turn.
What does happen: the turn radius gets smaller. This in itself is a useful technique, especially when you come around a blind right curve to find a car over the center line and encroaching into your lane. Grab some brake, tighten your turn radius, slip past the car on the right. I have use this method more times than I can remember.
You can demonstrate this radius shrinking effect to yourself: Go out in a parking lot, pedal around in a fairly tight circle, until you are leaning the bike over (but not enough to ground a pedal!) and traveling at a moderate speed. Now, grab some brake and watch what where your bike goes.
What does happen: the turn radius gets smaller. This in itself is a useful technique, especially when you come around a blind right curve to find a car over the center line and encroaching into your lane. Grab some brake, tighten your turn radius, slip past the car on the right. I have use this method more times than I can remember.
You can demonstrate this radius shrinking effect to yourself: Go out in a parking lot, pedal around in a fairly tight circle, until you are leaning the bike over (but not enough to ground a pedal!) and traveling at a moderate speed. Now, grab some brake and watch what where your bike goes.
Seems that others disagree with braking a turn.
GCN video, Mistake #2.
https://www.bicycling.com/training/a...cending-hills/
Quote. "The biggest mistake people make descending: They wait until they're in the middle of a turn to brake. Instead, scrub speed before the turn. If you have to brake in the turn, you didn't slow enough to begin with. Then, push your outside pedal down (right turn, left foot down) with pressure on that foot. To initiate the turn, lean the bike--not your body--into the turn (right turn, lean bike right). The faster and sharper the turn, the more you'll lean the bike. This action is similar to downhill skiing: The lower body angulates into the turn while the upper body remains upright. To exit the turn, gently straighten the bike."
Like I said before many people brake too hard in a turn and thereby lose control of their bike often to the point of not being able to regain steerage/control before crashing.
Cheers
#465
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Sorry, but that's not what I've read about happening on winding descents where someone without the NEEDED SKILL braked fairly hard on a curve. In one particular case the bicycle of the woman who braked hard straightened up, took a new line towards the edge of the road and went over the edge.
More common mishap is braking hard before a turn and losing traction, before you can start into the turn. If you can't start your turn in time, you're going straight. You can see this often in pro races.
That happened to me once descending Ebbets Pass. I was going fast down a long straight section that ended in a left hairpin. As I was braking hard, I hit a bump that caused the rear wheel to jump, then skid, and I wasn't able to initiate the turn in time. I straightened the bike, kept on the front brake, rode straight as an arrow, and slowly exited the roadway. No harm done.
Braking during a turn is a useful skill that improves with practice, and it's a skill that can avoid unpleasant outcomes. Of course, suddenly grabbing two big handfuls of brake--at any time--is a bad idea.
EDIT: Here's an example of what happens when your rear wheel loses traction as you start a turn. Your track straightens out.
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#466
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More likely she veered outside the turn because she was going too fast and was afraid to lean over and turn sharply enough. That happens, and it's scary, but it's when you lose your nerve or don't have the skill to take the turn at that speed. I don't think the braking per se, will push you out.
When you slow down (braking) centripetal force is less, which would naturally tend to lean you more into the curve, not less.
When you slow down (braking) centripetal force is less, which would naturally tend to lean you more into the curve, not less.
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#467
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Your "no downsides" flies in the face of every safe driving course out there. I wont argue it any more. Anyone who's ridden a bike for a while understands the problems of braking while in a curve. Your saying there isn't doesn't make it so.
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Is it coincidental , that hood riding and fear of braking in corners goes hand in hand?
Last edited by Metieval; 09-19-19 at 06:25 PM.
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When I searched You Tube for that video I posted above there were a LOT of other videos in the Search return that showed motorcycles sliding out in turns. They were talking about low-side crashes as well as high-side crashes. Thus improper braking in a curve is not limited to bicyclists and seems to be a rather advanced skill t hat a LOT of people don't have. hence the advice given by many to non-racing bicyclists to not brake in a curve. Do what works for you.
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#471
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Curves
Reduce speed before entering the curve, and slowly lighten the pressure on the brake until reaching the apex point (where the car is closest to the inside of the curve line). At the apex or exit point, apply light acceleration to pull the car out of the curve.
I wonder why driversed.com would every advise braking in a curve when such action is, as you claim, is "suboptimal".
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Every safe driving course? Even the written course material from, say, driversed.com?
Reduce speed before entering the curve, and slowly lighten the pressure on the brake until reaching the apex point (where the car is closest to the inside of the curve line). At the apex or exit point, apply light acceleration to pull the car out of the curve.
I wonder why driversed.com would every advise braking in a curve when such action is, as you claim, is "suboptimal".
Curves
Reduce speed before entering the curve, and slowly lighten the pressure on the brake until reaching the apex point (where the car is closest to the inside of the curve line). At the apex or exit point, apply light acceleration to pull the car out of the curve.
I wonder why driversed.com would every advise braking in a curve when such action is, as you claim, is "suboptimal".
Like I said, an alternate reality. It has to be to misinterpret that statement so completely. Let's brake it down (pun intended)...
Reduce speed before entering the curve, - That's brake before the curve
and slowly lighten the pressure on the brake until reaching the apex point - That's ease off the brakes in the curve.. not apply them.
Thanks for the example btw.
#473
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The reason you go upright and flip over the outer side of the bike when applying the brakes too hard in a curve is the forward momentum of your body over taking the arc of the bike. The bike slows but the mass of your weight continues forward towards the outside edge of the bike and over it if the braking force is too hard.
If you could remain low on the inside edge (think cafe racers cornering) you could control that force but your mass might then kick out the tires and you would lose traction. Road bikes typically do not have the sidewall tread design to make that work.
Many people don't anticipate the reduced inner turn radius of the bike when that happens and so they are too high. As they begin to lose balance outward the reflex is to brake even more, which exaggerates the effect.
If you ever downhill mtb and take sharp switchback turns you learn that real quick when applying the more responsive front brake. As you begin to pitch forward you instinctively hit the brake more and over the bars you go! Then you realize you should brake more from the rear in that situation and skid the back tire around.
If you could remain low on the inside edge (think cafe racers cornering) you could control that force but your mass might then kick out the tires and you would lose traction. Road bikes typically do not have the sidewall tread design to make that work.
Many people don't anticipate the reduced inner turn radius of the bike when that happens and so they are too high. As they begin to lose balance outward the reflex is to brake even more, which exaggerates the effect.
If you ever downhill mtb and take sharp switchback turns you learn that real quick when applying the more responsive front brake. As you begin to pitch forward you instinctively hit the brake more and over the bars you go! Then you realize you should brake more from the rear in that situation and skid the back tire around.
#474
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20 pages of replies and maybe 10 posts that actually address the OPs point.
That’s actually pretty good by BF standards.
That’s actually pretty good by BF standards.
#475
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EDIT: Here's an example of what happens when your rear wheel loses traction as you start a turn. Your track straightens out.
Phillipe Gilbert TdF 2018
Phillipe Gilbert TdF 2018
In racing there are lines you follow through turns. At Daytona this is a case of going to high and hitting the wall.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 09-19-19 at 07:18 PM.