First road bike - Some help please!
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First road bike - Some help please!
Okay, I’m going to be 67 in April. Been riding a Cannondale Quick Aluminum for last 6 months. Take two rides during week about 12 miles each, and 1 ride on weekend about 30 miles (will extend the ride when summer comes to 50 miles?). The two bikes I’m considering are the Trek Emonda SLR 6 or the Moots Vamoots. I live in SW Utah, the roads aren’t flat, but not mountain climbs either, Unfortunately the dealer for Trek never has bikes in stock, and the Moots dealer is 5 hours away.
Ideas?
Ideas?
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Okay, I’m going to be 67 in April. Been riding a Cannondale Quick Aluminum for last 6 months. Take two rides during week about 12 miles each, and 1 ride on weekend about 30 miles (will extend the ride when summer comes to 50 miles?). The two bikes I’m considering are the Trek Emonda SLR 6 or the Moots Vamoots. I live in SW Utah, the roads aren’t flat, but not mountain climbs either, Unfortunately the dealer for Trek never has bikes in stock, and the Moots dealer is 5 hours away.
Ideas?
Ideas?
There are many benefits to an LBS but if the ones near you don't stock the bikes you want and are NOT local (an NLBS?) then those benefits are pretty minimal.
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Read this review if you are not going to ride on really smooth roads: Trek Emonda SLR 6 review - BikeRadar USA It doesn't read that this would be a comfortable bike for less than perfect roads.
Here's a 2014 review on the second bike Moots Cycles Vamoots Road Bike Reviews - RoadbikeReview.com
I'd want a good long ride on either model before plunking down more than a couple thousand dollars on a bike to be sure it was a good fit and comfortable for long rides. I know from experience that as I got older a more aggressive riding position became less and less to my liking.
Here's a 2014 review on the second bike Moots Cycles Vamoots Road Bike Reviews - RoadbikeReview.com
I'd want a good long ride on either model before plunking down more than a couple thousand dollars on a bike to be sure it was a good fit and comfortable for long rides. I know from experience that as I got older a more aggressive riding position became less and less to my liking.
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Both are good bikes, but I think having an LBS to back it up would be a good thing in your circumstance. If your local bike shop never has bikes in stock, it makes me wonder if they will reliably stand behind what they sell and help you out along the way.
Where in southern Utah are you? Maybe you should consider a different bike from a better bike shop and go from there?
Where in southern Utah are you? Maybe you should consider a different bike from a better bike shop and go from there?
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Having a LBS nearby that can service your bike and handle any warranty claims is a plus. Maybe a drive into LAS or SLC might have to happen in order to get what you want.
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Lbs will service any bike, not just ones purchased there. As an earlier poster stated, if they don't stock your size and are that far away consider mail order if you know your size. As for Moots vsTrek, my preference is the Moots. They are both nice though.
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Must have been a different Utah.
The only exception might be a frame warranty repair (which is rare), might have to go back through the original dealer, assuming the bike was bought new. Even component warranty claims should be able to be handled by different stores.
Also talk to the Trek dealer about deposit/return policies. You've been riding for a while now, and should have an idea of what you want. Is there anybody you know that would loan you a bike?
Ordering a bike in the early spring, and if it is a normal size, 52 to 56cm or so, with fairly standard components, then the store should be able to display/sell it over the year if you don't take it.
#8
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Fit, Fit, fit make sure it FITS
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I just obtained a TREK SLR6 and put about 375 miles on it. I will tell you that it is a very rough bike. I personally love it as its what I want, but its extremely twitchy and harsh. 50+ mile rides My shoulders feel like screws are popping loose. You will definitely have to do extra workouts to strengthen your shoulders just to be able to ride it. At 67 years, old if you have issues of any kind, I would recommend something much easier going for you. If you do go for it, I would certainly look into getting 25mm tires instead of 23mm. Keep in mind that is the widest you can go as well.
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It's literally engineered to be as smooth a ride as possible.
If it's not smooth enough for a 50 mile ride for you to not be rattled to btis afterwards, you may need to consider your fit or look at mountain bikes with full suspension.
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Are you talking about the Domane SLR6 with the ride softeners at the head tube and seat tube and so on? https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b.../1475000-2017/
It's literally engineered to be as smooth a ride as possible.
If it's not smooth enough for a 50 mile ride for you to not be rattled to btis afterwards, you may need to consider your fit or look at mountain bikes with full suspension.
It's literally engineered to be as smooth a ride as possible.
If it's not smooth enough for a 50 mile ride for you to not be rattled to btis afterwards, you may need to consider your fit or look at mountain bikes with full suspension.
I am talking about the bike in question: Trek Emonda SLR 6
Last edited by Elvir; 01-08-18 at 01:12 PM.
#12
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Direct from the Trek site about the Emonda SLR 6: "Light weight is your biggest consideration. You want components you can depend on, but above all you want a featherlight frame with outstanding ride quality. You want your bike to perform on big climbs, steep descents, and fast sprints."
Both bikes he is considering are performance bikes and really intended for someone that is interested in speed paved roads. "Outstanding ride quality" is interpreted as ""rides great for a race bike." Cannondale has the Synapse, Specialized the Roubaix, etc. The "Endurance Road" category may be a choice you don't know about. At 67, if speed is your thing and body position is more speed oriented (ie, more leaned over) then the two bikes you suggest from the start are good choices.
As previously mentioned, get a fit. This will guide the salesman to the bike that best fits your body and related needs, and the bike may or may not be the SLR6 or Vamoots.
Both bikes he is considering are performance bikes and really intended for someone that is interested in speed paved roads. "Outstanding ride quality" is interpreted as ""rides great for a race bike." Cannondale has the Synapse, Specialized the Roubaix, etc. The "Endurance Road" category may be a choice you don't know about. At 67, if speed is your thing and body position is more speed oriented (ie, more leaned over) then the two bikes you suggest from the start are good choices.
As previously mentioned, get a fit. This will guide the salesman to the bike that best fits your body and related needs, and the bike may or may not be the SLR6 or Vamoots.
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Okay, I’m going to be 67 in April. Been riding a Cannondale Quick Aluminum for last 6 months. Take two rides during week about 12 miles each, and 1 ride on weekend about 30 miles (will extend the ride when summer comes to 50 miles?). The two bikes I’m considering are the Trek Emonda SLR 6 or the Moots Vamoots. I live in SW Utah, the roads aren’t flat, but not mountain climbs either, Unfortunately the dealer for Trek never has bikes in stock, and the Moots dealer is 5 hours away.
Ideas?
Ideas?
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The reviews I had read on the Trek made it sound comfortable in the H2 version. But I honestly was leaning toward the Moots Vamoots DR for a few reasons.
1 - I prefer the concept of titanium for several reasons. I work on my own bike and the concept of carbon fiber (yes I have several torque wrenches) tightening parts doesn’t appeal to me. My current bike weighs about 26 lbs. I believe the Moots would come in at about 17.5 lbs. Replaceable derailier hanger and more likely to survive the inevitable crash.
2 - More of an “endurance” bike geometry. I would order with additional 1 cm headtube length and plus 6 degree stem.
1 - I prefer the concept of titanium for several reasons. I work on my own bike and the concept of carbon fiber (yes I have several torque wrenches) tightening parts doesn’t appeal to me. My current bike weighs about 26 lbs. I believe the Moots would come in at about 17.5 lbs. Replaceable derailier hanger and more likely to survive the inevitable crash.
2 - More of an “endurance” bike geometry. I would order with additional 1 cm headtube length and plus 6 degree stem.
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Bikesdirect has some great titanium bikes, or at least on paper. Their Motobecane Ti bikes are just north of 2 grand and have great group and wheelsets. Look them up also, though not sure how they are in real life.
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There are a lot of good options in that category/price, so you 'may' want to consider something else. Perhaps some LBS stock some other brands you'd be willing to consider? Or you could order online.. there are a few bike shops that with a few measurements can get you a great fit on a bike that you'll love.
#17
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How close are you to like Cedar City or St George? Looks like there are some shops around there. I wouldn't recommend ordering online for your first road bike though. It would be one thing if you have been riding for several years and know how to wrench yourself a bit, but first time: not so much
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What some people suggest for a person getting a new road bike is to buy something really cheap, so you can test fit, geometry, preferred riding style .... Everybody who loves a bike will say it is the best, but it might be the worst for you. The opposite is true.
I'd suggest (if you know a little about bikes and it seems you do) considering a cheap used bike .... get used to where you like your contact points and also, gt used to how you feel after a couple hours.
Most bike shops might let you have 15 minutes, but in that time all you can really test if whether the levers are all connected correctly.
Sorry to keep telling the same tale but ... couple years back I had the use of a Cannondale 6-13 (I beleive) while on a supported tour. I could do 90 minutes and it was unbelievably good, but 94 minutes and my neck and shoulders started screaming. if I had done a 20-minute test i would have said it was perfect.
You might be most comfortable in a full, laid-out racer's stretch or in any number of other positions. Until you know where you want to be after a couple hours .... don't buy a bike which might make it hard to get there.
On the other hand, if you plan to ride for 60-90 minutes at high effort, a CAAD12 or Emonda or something might be perfect. You might feel the effects of the jarring afterwards a little, but if you get off soon enough you will appreciate the stiffness and quick response of the racier bikes.
There is a difference between a race-geometry bike and an endurance-geometry bike, even if you can set them both up to have almost the same contact points. And while I am not questioning your fitness ... I do know that some folks lose flexibility and strength over time, and if you want to buy a bike today which you will be riding ten or 15 years from now, you will probably want to by a bike which will leave some room to sit more upright over the years.
If you are okay buying a bike now and another if five or seven years .... or buying two bikes (always the best solution, unless you can buy three or four ) then whatever.
If this is a "bike for the rest of my life" bike then I think a bike which can handle wider tires and has a little more relaxed fit might be a consideration.
Also ... people in this community will debate everything, anything, even nothing (guilty as charged .... ) but i haven't heard much debate of the idea that a proper Titanium frame generally makes for the most comfortable ride available this side of actual suspension.
I'd suggest (if you know a little about bikes and it seems you do) considering a cheap used bike .... get used to where you like your contact points and also, gt used to how you feel after a couple hours.
Most bike shops might let you have 15 minutes, but in that time all you can really test if whether the levers are all connected correctly.
Sorry to keep telling the same tale but ... couple years back I had the use of a Cannondale 6-13 (I beleive) while on a supported tour. I could do 90 minutes and it was unbelievably good, but 94 minutes and my neck and shoulders started screaming. if I had done a 20-minute test i would have said it was perfect.
You might be most comfortable in a full, laid-out racer's stretch or in any number of other positions. Until you know where you want to be after a couple hours .... don't buy a bike which might make it hard to get there.
On the other hand, if you plan to ride for 60-90 minutes at high effort, a CAAD12 or Emonda or something might be perfect. You might feel the effects of the jarring afterwards a little, but if you get off soon enough you will appreciate the stiffness and quick response of the racier bikes.
There is a difference between a race-geometry bike and an endurance-geometry bike, even if you can set them both up to have almost the same contact points. And while I am not questioning your fitness ... I do know that some folks lose flexibility and strength over time, and if you want to buy a bike today which you will be riding ten or 15 years from now, you will probably want to by a bike which will leave some room to sit more upright over the years.
If you are okay buying a bike now and another if five or seven years .... or buying two bikes (always the best solution, unless you can buy three or four ) then whatever.
If this is a "bike for the rest of my life" bike then I think a bike which can handle wider tires and has a little more relaxed fit might be a consideration.
Also ... people in this community will debate everything, anything, even nothing (guilty as charged .... ) but i haven't heard much debate of the idea that a proper Titanium frame generally makes for the most comfortable ride available this side of actual suspension.
#19
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Consider a Domane rather than a Emonda. Test out a few bikes before taking the plunge. You cannot read on the internet what fits you.