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Old 11-10-18, 09:41 PM
  #5326  
Godsight
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Originally Posted by taras0000 View Post
. "Real" track geometry has about 14-17 mm of flop in the front end. Road geo's tend to average around 20-22mm.
Actually most road race bike are also in 14-17mm of flop range with a trail number hovering between 55 to 58mm. My old dolan df3 is the road/track bike that i rode with the biggest trail number at 66mm (tied with some gravel/cyclocross bikes)

Trail, top tube length, stem length and chainstays length are what make the handling of any bike. My dolan DF3 was still twitchy because i had a top tube 2cm shorter than what I should ride normally like my Felt TK FRD 55cm.

For short tail helmets suitable for match sprinting, you have the choice of:
Lazer wasp air or the newer(and shorter tail) Victor
Giro Aerohead
Poc Cerebel
Oakley Aro7

Last edited by Godsight; 11-10-18 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 11-11-18, 11:53 PM
  #5327  
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Stiff stem recommendations? Realised during a standing start yesterday that I really need to replace the cheap one I was using to dial in my position...
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Old 11-12-18, 01:00 AM
  #5328  
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There was a stiffness test done a while back, someone moight be able to find the results. The problem is it's dated now and a few of the stems have changed design or been discontinued. From memory, the PRO Vibe track stem was top dog and the 3T alloy stems with the wider front plate bolt spacing (can still be found as a MTB stem) rolled in after.

NOTE: do not discount the part your steerer, fork and bars have to play in how flexy your front end feels. Decent quality stems would show negligible flex compared to those other parts in the chain
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Old 11-12-18, 01:50 AM
  #5329  
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Originally Posted by ruudlaff View Post
Stiff stem recommendations? Realised during a standing start yesterday that I really need to replace the cheap one I was using to dial in my position...
Originally Posted by brawlo View Post
There was a stiffness test done a while back, someone moight be able to find the results. The problem is it's dated now and a few of the stems have changed design or been discontinued. From memory, the PRO Vibe track stem was top dog and the 3T alloy stems with the wider front plate bolt spacing (can still be found as a MTB stem) rolled in after.

NOTE: do not discount the part your steerer, fork and bars have to play in how flexy your front end feels. Decent quality stems would show negligible flex compared to those other parts in the chain
+1

The 3T Arx stems are really good, fairly priced, easy to find, with LOTS of size options. I've owned a few when experimenting with fit. Avoid the titanium bolts, though. You'll need a star wrench to adjust them as the metal is soft. If you do happen to get a stem with ti bolts, go to a hardware or hobby store and replace the bolts with steel that use allen wrenches. The ti bolts aren't bad. They are just a PITA when you have to carry a special tool to adjust them.



Thomson X4 MTB stems have been a go-to stem for sprinters in the US. However, the sizes are somewhat limited to the most popular options. I've owned several over the years and have one now on my steel bike.



The AUS men and women are known for using both. I was looking for photos and guess what I found in the same photo!



Also...

Jimmy Watkins (USA) using a 3T Arx stem on a Felt TK1 (using a standard fork) vs Shane Perkins (AUS) riding a Thomson X4 stem on a BT in the London Olympics:


Last edited by carleton; 11-12-18 at 02:02 AM.
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Old 11-12-18, 03:01 AM
  #5330  
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Originally Posted by brawlo View Post
NOTE: do not discount the part your steerer, fork and bars have to play in how flexy your front end feels. Decent quality stems would show negligible flex compared to those other parts in the chain
A fair point, unfortunately there is a picture evidence and you can genuinely see it contorting. It's not that surprising, it was like a £15 own brand stem genuinely just bought for fit testing.
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Old 11-12-18, 05:02 AM
  #5331  
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Originally Posted by brawlo View Post
There was a stiffness test done a while back, someone moight be able to find the results.
Here's the link to it
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Old 11-12-18, 06:09 AM
  #5332  
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Some of the recent 3T stems have a single pinch bolt at the steerer tube (like the first one Carleton pictured). I have one on my road bike and I don't recommend it. In my experience I have to supply more torque than I'm really comfortable with for it to stay put (looking for a replacement). I also have a 3T with the two bolt design and it's great, try to find that if you can.
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Old 11-12-18, 02:38 PM
  #5333  
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Is window cleaner ok to use to clean tyres? ( for example before riding on wooden Velodrome?)

I have seen rubbing alcohol and white vinegar reccomended but I was told windex window cleaner does the trick.

Was thinking window cleaner is cheap, doesn’t stink like vinegar and less likely to leak like most rubbing alcohol bottles seem to do. Plus I can clean my window with it haha.
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Old 11-12-18, 05:04 PM
  #5334  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
+1

The 3T Arx stems are really good, fairly priced, easy to find, with LOTS of size options. I've owned a few when experimenting with fit. Avoid the titanium bolts, though. You'll need a star wrench to adjust them as the metal is soft. If you do happen to get a stem with ti bolts, go to a hardware or hobby store and replace the bolts with steel that use allen wrenches. The ti bolts aren't bad. They are just a PITA when you have to carry a special tool to adjust them.



Jimmy Watkins (USA) using a 3T Arx stem on a Felt TK1 (using a standard fork) vs Shane Perkins (AUS) riding a Thomson X4 stem on a BT in the London Olympics:

Not the stem above but this one with the wider bolt spacing on the face as seen on Jimmy's bike. The current MTB stems run a wider spacing, but still not as wide as the older versions. I doubt you'd be able to find any that are new. The titanium bolts on the 2nd tier (red) model are a PITA. I've broken a couple, but never broken when using a torque wrench to tighten. Those older versions don't have them, just the old allen head bolts, but I actually prefer the torx bolts. I think it's a far better design, especially when used for bolts that you work with a lot. I have rounded a number of allen bolts and was due to change out my DA set on my cranks but I just changed to 165 vision cranks and they came with torx bolts and I like them!

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Old 11-12-18, 05:38 PM
  #5335  
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Ah. Now I see what you mean.

Torx is the word I was looking for! Torx *is* superior to allen due to the fact that more surface area is engaged. Personally, I prefer ball-head medium length single allen wrenches. Makes for easy spinning in the fingers when slightly off-center.

BTW, one could easily swap allen for torx bolts on stems and crank spiders. I’ve seen the chainring bolts offered as torx in the past. I haven’t seen bolts in the hardware store though.
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Old 11-15-18, 11:42 PM
  #5336  
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Aus team ended up making their own thomson style stems after london due to the limited sizing, I've got pictures somewhere that I'll look for.
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Old 11-16-18, 09:57 AM
  #5337  
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Originally Posted by pierrej View Post
Aus team ended up making their own thomson style stems after london due to the limited sizing, I've got pictures somewhere that I'll look for.
Interesting.

I wonder if they contracted Thomson for the job. Bike components is sort of a "side gig" for them and they are open to custom work:

Loronzo H. “Ronnie” Thomson founded L.H. Thomson Company, Inc. in 1981 with a mission to manufacture precision machined parts using CNC equipment. In the mid-‘90s, Ronnie used his aerospace engineering expertise to create a bicycle seatpost for his daughter, a team cyclist at Carnegie Mellon University. Rather than making a post similar to other posts on the market, Ronnie created something entirely new: a one-piece seatpost light enough for an unmatched ride, but strong enough to withstand the pressures of biking. Ronnie patented his creation and Thomson bike components were born.
Their main area of expertise is custom aerospace products: https://www.lhthomson.com

Since 1981, L.H. Thomson has been a leader in creating aerospace parts and assemblies through CNC precision manufacturing. By focusing on superior quality and innovative manufacturing and engineering, Thomson has established a reputation for making complex parts to the highest standards and specifications set forth by some of the largest companies in the world.

Utilizing lean manufacturing principles, Thomson excels in the manufacture of monolithic commercial aircraft components using aluminum, high temperature alloys, titanium, stainless steel, high nickel materials, magnesium, plastics, copper, and other metals and composites.

We specialize in long term agreements and we are well positioned to handle start-up costs. Thomson makes your part to print, in tolerance, and delivers it on time. Our in house tool room assures that any fixture and gage can be created at L.H. Thomson – if a tool doesn’t exist, we’ll create it, just for you.
The company is about an hour away from me in Macon, GA.

Last edited by carleton; 11-16-18 at 10:01 AM.
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Old 11-18-18, 04:01 AM
  #5338  
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Hi guys,

Asking for some crank opinions - I’m trying to choose between the following, both in 165mm

DA 7710 crank set, plus 105 5500 bottom bracket -£300

or

Sugino SG75 “criterium” +SG75 bottom bracket, £205.
https://www.dolan-bikes.com/sugino-s...-pcd144mm.html

Theres is not much info available about the SG75 criteriums. I’m not sure if they are the same crank as the normal SG75 but just bundled with a chainring for the crit racer crowd or built differently. They have a different paint job at least.
Im a big guy, definitely a “Clydesdale” as Carlton likes to put it. I push fairly big watts so want a reliably stiff crank set.

What do you guys think? Are the Sugino’s as good as the dura ace? Any benefits to sticking to square taper for example?

Edit - Adding another layer of complexity, alternatively there is the Sugino Direct Drive DD75 crank for similar money to the dura ace at £320.

thanks

Last edited by Kaben; 11-18-18 at 04:04 AM. Reason: Added question
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Old 11-18-18, 07:25 AM
  #5339  
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Originally Posted by Kaben View Post
Hi guys,

Asking for some crank opinions - I’m trying to choose between the following, both in 165mm

DA 7710 crank set, plus 105 5500 bottom bracket -£300

or

Sugino SG75 “criterium” +SG75 bottom bracket, £205.
https://www.dolan-bikes.com/sugino-s...-pcd144mm.html

Theres is not much info available about the SG75 criteriums. I’m not sure if they are the same crank as the normal SG75 but just bundled with a chainring for the crit racer crowd or built differently. They have a different paint job at least.
Im a big guy, definitely a “Clydesdale” as Carlton likes to put it. I push fairly big watts so want a reliably stiff crank set.

What do you guys think? Are the Sugino’s as good as the dura ace? Any benefits to sticking to square taper for example?

Edit - Adding another layer of complexity, alternatively there is the Sugino Direct Drive DD75 crank for similar money to the dura ace at £320.

thanks
i currently own Sugino 75 DD(Direct drive).
i will personally recommend Dura ace 7710.
i think most of member in this forum will recommend Duraace 7710 over other cranks
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Old 11-18-18, 07:44 AM
  #5340  
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Hi Gycho,

Why would your reccomend the 7710 over the DD75 out of interest?

Thanks
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Old 11-18-18, 02:40 PM
  #5341  
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Vision track cranks? They're good enough for Van den Berg and Bos on their Avantis. I just purchased a set of 165s to try from Ben’s Cycle. I already have DA 7710s in 175 but the Visions with FSA BB came in cheaper than a new set of DA cranks and they look sexy. I didn’t bother looking at NJS stuff because I got a set of cranks via then a few years ago and the BB interface was damaged and they were slightly out of alignment so decided to go new

Last edited by brawlo; 11-18-18 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 11-18-18, 07:16 PM
  #5342  
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Originally Posted by brawlo View Post
Vision track cranks? I just purchased a set of 165s to try from Ben’s Cycle. I already have DA 7710s in 175 but the Visions with FSA BB came in cheaper than a new set of DA cranks and they look sexy. I didn’t bother looking at NJS stuff because I got a set of cranks via then a few years ago and the BB interface was damaged and they were slightly out of alignment so decided to go new
Yeah, as much as I love the 7710 cranks with the BB-7710 bottom bracket, the set is very expensive. They are a "buy it for life" type of item, though. And they are the reference track crankset to which all others are compared.

Maybe they keep the price where it is because of that.
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Old 11-18-18, 07:41 PM
  #5343  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Yeah, as much as I love the 7710 cranks with the BB-7710 bottom bracket, the set is very expensive. They are a "buy it for life" type of item, though. And they are the reference track crankset to which all others are compared.

Maybe they keep the price where it is because of that.
For us in Oz, exchange rate is a big part of the issue. When the $$ was good I got my 175 cranks and they were $315. My first track bike came with DA 170s so I was already onboard. Now the best price is $AU450 plus delivery. Relatively speaking they're up there, but so too is the quality.
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Old 11-18-18, 08:55 PM
  #5344  
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Nothing wrong with Sugino 75's. Sure, square taper is pre-historic technology, but it still works. I've been using them for 10 years with no problems.
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Old 11-19-18, 02:24 AM
  #5345  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
Nothing wrong with Sugino 75's. Sure, square taper is pre-historic technology, but it still works. I've been using them for 10 years with no problems.
Sugino DD75 are their external BB version:

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Old 11-20-18, 02:32 AM
  #5346  
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I managed to pick up a brand new set of DA 7710 for just £165 - was a strange situation where amazon showed them as out of stock but you could still order and they would charge when they came back into stock. I did that a few weeks ago and forgot about it, never expecting them to come back into stock at that low price. Yesterday i got a message to say they were dispatched and they arrived today!

Was half expecting it to be a scam with something of similar weight stuffed in a box but they arrived brand new and factory sealed. They are very pretty - cant wait to get them on the bike! Just got to wait for a bottom bracket to arrive first!
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Old 11-20-18, 08:54 AM
  #5347  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Regarding gloves:

Baseball batting gloves. In the USA there are huge selections at any big sporting goods store and are inexpensive. Golf gloves are just as good and priced similarly, but not as durable and difficult to find in L/R pairs. They are sooooo soft and the right amount of grip. I used golf gloves as my "special occasion" gloves for big events. Baseball gloves for training and weekly racing.

All of the above are better than 5Bling in terms of options, quality of leather, and availability. Plus you get to try before you buy. I do like the idea of supporting a small businessman in the cycling world, though.

I've owned 2 sets of 5Bling gloves. I've never used or handled BLS gloves.

Regarding attaching NJS straps to current generation pedals:

I've done it using small/narrow zip ties with Ultegra carbon pedals. No drilling/shaving required. I'm sure people have pics out there from others. I now have them on my road bike.

I hunted for some alloy Dura Ace PD-7810 and Ultegra (forget the model) which are PERFECT for attaching pedals. Note the metal tab in the center.





Hi Carleton, i just noticed in these images you posted that on your NJS straps you have the straps crossing front to back rather than going into their naturally corresponding buckle - is there a reason / advantage for doing this? Or is it just a case that thats how the straps fit easiest with the zip ties?

Struggling to get mine on quickly so looking for any possible advantage. British cycling marshals are not very accepting of faff!
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Old 11-20-18, 09:49 AM
  #5348  
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Originally Posted by Kaben View Post
Hi Carleton, i just noticed in these images you posted that on your NJS straps you have the straps crossing front to back rather than going into their naturally corresponding buckle - is there a reason / advantage for doing this? Or is it just a case that thats how the straps fit easiest with the zip ties?

Struggling to get mine on quickly so looking for any possible advantage. British cycling marshals are not very accepting of faff!
It's to allow the straps to come together under the pedal.

I could just squeeze them closer, but they don't want to do that. If you cross them and let the cross point be under the pedal, it works better and you get what's in the photo above.
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Old 11-20-18, 10:25 AM
  #5349  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
It's to allow the straps to come together under the pedal.

I could just squeeze them closer, but they don't want to do that. If you cross them and let the cross point be under the pedal, it works better and you get what's in the photo above.
Ok, that makes sense, thanks!
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Old 11-20-18, 11:30 AM
  #5350  
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Who are some good riders to follow on Instagram?
Looking for some insights into training/racing, as well as entertainment.
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