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Is there a ramped and pinned 33T 5-bolt 110mm BCD Chainring?

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Is there a ramped and pinned 33T 5-bolt 110mm BCD Chainring?

Old 01-20-20, 11:05 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by williaty
The RD won't take that much chain. Chain length will be set so nothing is destroyed if it's accidentally put into big-big and then will fall slack about half way through the cassette when in the granny ring. The goal is just to keep tension on the chain in the granny ring up to a small enough cog to get a ratio overlap with the middle ring.

26" rear wheel so I'm looking at about ~10.5 gear inches, which isn't unusually low for loaded touring in a recumbent tadpole trike. I currently have a 22T granny wit the 42T cog in back and it's nowhere near low enough.
Have you considered adding a chain idler to your trike? There are some with multiple pulleys that could take up additional chain slack for you.
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Old 01-20-20, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
Have you considered adding a chain idler to your trike? There are some with multiple pulleys that could take up additional chain slack for you.
I have been looking but so far everything I've seen expects to be mounted to the rear derailleur dropout, which is obviously busy holding the RD.
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Old 01-20-20, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by williaty
I have been looking but so far everything I've seen expects to be mounted to the rear derailleur dropout, which is obviously busy holding the RD.
I've seen recumbents with what appeared to be an additional rear derailleur cage mounted to the boom tube. It helped to keep the chain off the ground and articulated to take up more chain slack. Looked sort of like this:


(from https://softsolder.com/2010/09/01/im...ain-tensioner/)

It was a neat solution, I figured it was a pretty common thing to do. Maybe not?
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Old 01-20-20, 11:34 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by williaty
I have been looking but so far everything I've seen expects to be mounted to the rear derailleur dropout, which is obviously busy holding the RD.
Not sure about your trike but the recumbent trikes I've seen have a long expanse of chain between the all-the-way forward mounted cranks and the rear derailleur. Somewhere in that open length there should be a place to attach a bracket that could be used to mount a second rear derailleur or chain tensioner. Drill the bracket with a 10 mm (7/16") hole and attach the derailleur/tensioner with a thin M10x1.0 nut that any LBS should have. Alternatively, get a "claw" mount and bolt it to your bracket and attach the derailleur/tensioner to it.

Last edited by HillRider; 01-20-20 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 01-20-20, 11:37 AM
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This is the one that was the most interesting to me, given the price. https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...18&category=54

However, coming up with a mounting bracket will end up costing many times more than the tensioner itself.
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Old 01-20-20, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by williaty
This is the one that was the most interesting to me, given the price. https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...18&category=54

However, coming up with a mounting bracket will end up costing many times more than the tensioner itself.
The bracket should be dirt cheap. A piece of scrap metal attached to a tube or between two tubes and fastened with radiator clamps should work fine.
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Old 01-20-20, 07:36 PM
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In general, undersize chain rings are a crap shoot. The reduced diameter brings the chain closer to the nuts on the inside of the inner ring and the flange of the spider between the ring. This can cause the chain to skate over the teeth (skip) as the chain and teeth wear in. I'd seen this in the shop with 38t rings on a 130 mm BCD. I'd seen this in the shop, and a forum discussion of this a few years ago. You can try it, you can try grinding off some crank arm spider, but this is time and money going into something that might not work and will only show itself after you've been using it for a few months.
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Old 01-20-20, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbobcat
In general, undersize chain rings are a crap shoot. The reduced diameter brings the chain closer to the nuts on the inside of the inner ring and the flange of the spider between the ring. This can cause the chain to skate over the teeth (skip) as the chain and teeth wear in. I'd seen this in the shop with 38t rings on a 130 mm BCD. I'd seen this in the shop, and a forum discussion of this a few years ago. You can try it, you can try grinding off some crank arm spider, but this is time and money going into something that might not work and will only show itself after you've been using it for a few months.
That's the whole point of the Mountain Tamer. It turns the inside of the crank into a freewheel body so the bolt placement no longer matters.
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Old 01-20-20, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
I've seen recumbents with what appeared to be an additional rear derailleur cage mounted to the boom tube. It helped to keep the chain off the ground and articulated to take up more chain slack. Looked sort of like this:

(from https://softsolder.com/2010/09/01/im...ain-tensioner/)

It was a neat solution, I figured it was a pretty common thing to do. Maybe not?
That's an idler on a Tour Easy two-wheel recumbent (I had one a few years ago- one in a series of recumbents). Other recumbents have similar arrangements in order to take up excess chain when the boom length is adjusted.
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