drkdede

I'm new to buying bikes on Craigslist. Apparently, this is a Bianchi Nuovo Alloro. The seller states that this is a restored 70s bike. How much would you pay for this bike? Also, what kind of spec does it have and what year is it? I don't have the expertise to figure out how much to pay for this.

imgur dot com/a/Qa1KvPO
Sorry about the link, I can't post images or links...

drkdede

Also, what is that extra metal bar used for? It is underneath the seat.

T-Mar

Welcome to the forums. The subject bicycle is a 1985 mid-range model. The tubeset is custom made Bianchi Special by Columbus. Given the era and level, most believe it is a forerunner to Columbus Matrix/Cromor. The derailleurs are Campagnolo Nuovo Record. The crankeset is a rebranded Ofmega Competezione while the brakeset should be Modolo America. Most of the other components are from 2nd tier Italian manufacturers. Claimed weight was 22.5 lbs and MSRP was $599 US. Current value is ~$250 US.

Bianchigirll 

Hello and welcome to the forums. Nice looking Bianchi The white tube is a pump

drkdede

I ended up buying this bike. I'm not sure if it is me being weak or what but I'm not able to pull the brake lever to stop the wheels when I'm on the hood. It would slow but the wheel doesn't come to a halt. I'm only able to do it when I'm on the drops. I'm not sure if the bike was designed like this, or if it is old and that I should buy new brakes. What do you guys think?

drkdede

Based on this post, I feel like it is the calipers problem. It is quite difficult to squeeze together. Bianchigirll or T-Mar, do you two have any recommendations on brake calipers? I believe this one is a single pivot. Any insight is appreciated.
bikeforums dot net/bicycle-mechanics/376745-brake-lever-pull-too-tight.html

T-Mar

The vintage of this model is just before the revolution in brakes that introduced lower hand force and a higher mechanical advantage. Many of these older brakes have issues with stopping while on the hoods. Having said that, the problem may not be the calipers itself. Old brake pads harden, which decreases performance and those Modolo pads were not the best in the first place. Also, there could be some rust present in the cable housings or simply a bad cut at the end of the housing. Replacement with modern, Teflon lined housing and new cables should significant reduce cable friction and increase modulation. Finally, there may be too much compression on the caliper thrust washers or they could be damaged. Most Modolo thrust washers of this era are bronze, so they can lubricated with a light grease, which may decrease operating friction. Generally, the levers are not an issue but when the cables are removed, you should check them for smooth operation.

The above should improve the operation by decreasing hand force required to stop and improving modulation. However, it is impossible to predict if it will be sufficient in your case. The best solution might be a pair of modern, dual pivot brakes,which typically have lighter return springs and a higher mechanical advantage.

capnjonny 

At the bike Exchange we always sand down the brake pads on our donation bikes. Also important is to clean the rims with alcohol. Any contamination of the brakes or rims can keep brakes from working properly. I often will sand the rims braking surface with 400 grit sand paper then clean with alcohol to increase performance. replacing pads with koolstops is another good idea. Also check that the brakes are adjusted properly. many bikes come to us with the brakes so loose that you can squeeze the brakes till the handles almost touch the bars. While doing all this be sure that the rims are true with minimal runout.

tkamd73 

Nice Bianchi! If non of the above works, as to lessen the brake modulation pressure, and you don’t want to buy some dual pivots, remove the calipers from the bike, pull the main spring off, and take some tension out of it. Did that with a set of Modolo Flash calipers, and a NR set. Pretty easy to stop from the hoods afterwards.
Tim