Quill stem
08-08-20, 08:36 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Quill stem
I just refurbished a 1982 Fuji America and took it for its first ride today. Great ride but I’m thinking the handlebars might be too low. I put many miles on this bike when I was younger and I had an aggressive set up. I’m now 67 and looking for a more relaxed ride. Any thoughts on how high I should set the handlebars to get a more comfortable ride.
08-08-20, 08:44 PM
#2
Cheerfully low end
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,971
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 644 Post(s)
Liked 1,044 Times
in
667 Posts
I just refurbished a 1982 Fuji America and took it for its first ride today. Great ride but I’m thinking the handlebars might be too low. I put many miles on this bike when I was younger and I had an aggressive set up. I’m now 67 and looking for a more relaxed ride. Any thoughts on how high I should set the handlebars to get a more comfortable ride.
Otto
08-08-20, 08:54 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fairplay Co
Posts: 9,512
Bikes: Current 79 Nishiki Custum Sport, Jeunet 620, notable previous bikes P.K. Ripper loop tail, Kawahara Laser Lite, Paramount Track full chrome, Raliegh Internatioanl, Motobecan Super Mirage. 59 Crown royak 3 speed
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 789 Post(s)
Liked 1,739 Times
in
630 Posts
While the ideal as said for this bike is a classic level top line. Given the OP's post I would say try lowering the saddle 1 inch or so and raise the stem about a inch to just below the max rise line.
08-08-20, 11:55 PM
#5
Me duelen las nalgas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,513
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4559 Post(s)
Liked 2,802 Times
in
1,800 Posts
The great thing about quill stems is we can adjust the height easily. Sometimes I'll stop during a ride and make an adjustment.
For awhile when I was recovering from neck and shoulder injuries I raised the quill stems quite a bit. And tipped the drop bar slightly back toward me. I prefer the drops slightly angled, not parallel with the ground. And I'd loosen the brake lever clamps and raise the hoods. Then I'd adjust the finger reach to the levers with the little hidden grub screw, so the brakes still fell naturally under my fingers.
Back around 2017 I had to switch from my road bike's original 120mm stem to a 90mm, which I rode for almost two years. But a few months ago I was making enough progress with physical therapy to switch to a 100 or 110mm stem. Feels more stable on fast curves, especially on rippled pavement. The short 90mm stem was comfy but twitchy. But I also had to raise the quill stem about 1/4" and might raise it a bit more.
Try lots of little tweaks. Carry a multi tool and you can make most adjustments during rest breaks in a ride. That's how I tweak all my bike setups.
I wouldn't use the saddle height to influence upper body bike fit. The saddle adjustments should be appropriate for the knees and hips, not the upper body. Same with the fore/aft positioning of a saddle. That's primarily to suit our knees, hips and lower back, and optimal power transfer while being comfortable.
The only saddle adjustment I make to suit my handlebar/stem is the saddle angle. Usually I prefer the saddle flat but sometimes an up or down angle, one or two notches, might be suitable for some handlebar setups. I just go by how my butt and perineum feel during a longer ride. Saddle, padded shorts, etc., can influence these too.
For awhile when I was recovering from neck and shoulder injuries I raised the quill stems quite a bit. And tipped the drop bar slightly back toward me. I prefer the drops slightly angled, not parallel with the ground. And I'd loosen the brake lever clamps and raise the hoods. Then I'd adjust the finger reach to the levers with the little hidden grub screw, so the brakes still fell naturally under my fingers.
Back around 2017 I had to switch from my road bike's original 120mm stem to a 90mm, which I rode for almost two years. But a few months ago I was making enough progress with physical therapy to switch to a 100 or 110mm stem. Feels more stable on fast curves, especially on rippled pavement. The short 90mm stem was comfy but twitchy. But I also had to raise the quill stem about 1/4" and might raise it a bit more.
Try lots of little tweaks. Carry a multi tool and you can make most adjustments during rest breaks in a ride. That's how I tweak all my bike setups.
I wouldn't use the saddle height to influence upper body bike fit. The saddle adjustments should be appropriate for the knees and hips, not the upper body. Same with the fore/aft positioning of a saddle. That's primarily to suit our knees, hips and lower back, and optimal power transfer while being comfortable.
The only saddle adjustment I make to suit my handlebar/stem is the saddle angle. Usually I prefer the saddle flat but sometimes an up or down angle, one or two notches, might be suitable for some handlebar setups. I just go by how my butt and perineum feel during a longer ride. Saddle, padded shorts, etc., can influence these too.
Likes For canklecat:
08-09-20, 04:28 AM
#6
spondylitis.org
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fleetwood, PA, USA
Posts: 1,002
Bikes: '84 Colnago Super; '90 Bridgestone MB-1; '81 Trek 930; '01 Cinelli Supercorsa; '62 Ideor Asso; '87 Tommasini Super Prestige; '13 Lynskey R2300; '84 Serotta Nova Special; '94 Litespeed Catalyst; etc.
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 121 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
63 Posts
Likes For kunsunoke:
08-09-20, 06:14 AM
#8
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,844
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2296 Post(s)
Liked 2,046 Times
in
1,253 Posts
08-09-20, 06:57 AM
#9
weapons-grade bolognium
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Across the street from Chicago
Posts: 6,344
Bikes: Battaglin Cromor, Ciocc Designer 84, Schwinn Superior 1981
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 985 Post(s)
Liked 2,376 Times
in
891 Posts
canklecat hit most of the points.
The position of the brake hoods and length of the stem may also be factors.
Sometimes, the solution to a fit issue can be counter-intuitive. Try raising and lowering the stem, rotate the bars, try a longer and shorter stem.
The position of the brake hoods and length of the stem may also be factors.
Sometimes, the solution to a fit issue can be counter-intuitive. Try raising and lowering the stem, rotate the bars, try a longer and shorter stem.
08-09-20, 10:16 AM
#10
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,642
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2607 Post(s)
Liked 1,694 Times
in
933 Posts
I have trouble with my neck- looking up to see the road in front of me. I got a 'dirt drop' riser stem for my bike. Love it. I got Nitto Technomics for the other 2 main riders in my fleet (hoard). Love 'em.
IMG_1703 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
M1000LT Bars n Bag by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
1985 Trek 620 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
IMG_1703 by Dave The Golden Boy, on FlickrM1000LT Bars n Bag by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr1985 Trek 620 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
08-09-20, 02:08 PM
#11
Disraeli Gears
+1 for the Dirt Drop-type stem on The Golden Boy's Trek above, if you want extra height. Looks way better than a long-necked Technomic IMO. Of course, you're limited to 80 (or 100 maybe) reach, and 26.0 bar barrel diameter.
08-09-20, 02:24 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,827 Times
in
1,995 Posts
Really need to see you on the bike. So, So many riders sit with locked elbows. Not saying this is the case, but locked elbows will place all the shock to be absorbed at the shoulders.
A slight bend in the elbows is actually a learned thing, I was locked elbows when I started.
being interested and having the set up where you move hands around the bars helps too.
I set my son up with inline cyclocross style levers on the tops just to have him move his hands around and still feel the safety of having immediate braking.
A slight bend in the elbows is actually a learned thing, I was locked elbows when I started.
being interested and having the set up where you move hands around the bars helps too.
I set my son up with inline cyclocross style levers on the tops just to have him move his hands around and still feel the safety of having immediate braking.
