DT Swiss E1800 DB32 tubeless + GP5000?
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DT Swiss E1800 DB32 tubeless + GP5000?
I'm eyeing a Cervelo C3 to go disk brake, tubeless, relaxed tracking (trailing steering angle), and 25-28mm tires. And I suppose, 11sp. The stock bike comes with a DT Swiss E1800 DB32 wheelset, which is supposedly tubeless. I'd probably try the stock Conti GPs, then mount GP5000s as I'm a big fan of the 4000/5000's in clinchers. I believe there's no difference between the DB32/DB23 other than rim depth? Anyone have experience with this wheelset? Aye keep it, or nay have the dealer put something else on?
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I had those wheels on my Canyon Endurace. I ran them tubeless with 32mm GP5000TL for a couple thousand miles. Very nice combo. I also ran them with 32mm Specialized Roubaix Pros, also in 32mm for a few hundred miles. Very nice combo as well.
-Matt
-Matt
Last edited by MattTheHat; 08-08-19 at 08:45 PM.
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No idea about the wheels, but I'm still in love with my C3 a couple years in. It's a fantastic, versatile bike. Hope you love yours too.
#6
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I'm running the R32 with 25mm and 28mm TL. The wheels have been indestructible over 3 years (?) of abuse after other wheels had failed me. The tires didn't require miracles to mount, though all bike tires require some work. The bead on the GP5K TL is interesting because it is HUGE; it basically fills the rim width. I don't recall needed an air compressor or tank, but a CO2 cartridge works too (note put the goo in after the tire has sat over night, as the CO2 freezes the goo and the tires may unseat when you deflate them to put in the goo, but you want them to take shape over night)
The only differences I've seen in the P PR E ER 1600 1800 family are the hubs - 350 or 370. 350 use the quieter star mechanism; the 370 uses a traditional pawl mechanism which is louder. The quieter hub is nice, but the regular one is great. Spokes- I think they all use bladed spokes, one has lighter versions than the other. Rim, I think the E and ER version use a 2mm wider rim (its not clear whether there are more than one 32mm deep), which is better because the narrow 22mm wide ones are more darty in the wind and the 24mm is better for current wider tires.
The 32mm deep rims to look better with a 25c tire mounted, as the larger tire sizes have too much of a bubble on the end which looks weird with the depth.
The only differences I've seen in the P PR E ER 1600 1800 family are the hubs - 350 or 370. 350 use the quieter star mechanism; the 370 uses a traditional pawl mechanism which is louder. The quieter hub is nice, but the regular one is great. Spokes- I think they all use bladed spokes, one has lighter versions than the other. Rim, I think the E and ER version use a 2mm wider rim (its not clear whether there are more than one 32mm deep), which is better because the narrow 22mm wide ones are more darty in the wind and the 24mm is better for current wider tires.
The 32mm deep rims to look better with a 25c tire mounted, as the larger tire sizes have too much of a bubble on the end which looks weird with the depth.
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Great feedback on the wheelset, sounds like a good bundle - and thanks for the feedback on the C3!
I can see there's going to be some learning curve on tubeless...
I can see there's going to be some learning curve on tubeless...
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The dealer didn't have a suitable size C3 on hand for me to test ride, but had an unbuilt 56 they'll put together and I should be able to test ride it sometime this week. They also have a retul fit studio, so I'll do a fit with them, we'll pick a frame and stem (maybe bars), and if I want one they'll order one with a build kit of my choice (regular ultegra or di2, and I'm seriously considering splurging on the latter). I'm also going to test ride the BMC RM02 back to back (that one I know is available to test ride).
But I really wanted to ask another tubeless question... how durable are the rim valves generally? Same or more than usually found on say Conti butyl tubes? A significant portion of my flats (maybe 5-10 per year, no big deal) are valve failures, especially if I reuse old patched tubes. And I'm pretty careful not to bend them when inflating, but it still happens, most recently last month. Maybe CO2 inflators really shorten their lives.
But I really wanted to ask another tubeless question... how durable are the rim valves generally? Same or more than usually found on say Conti butyl tubes? A significant portion of my flats (maybe 5-10 per year, no big deal) are valve failures, especially if I reuse old patched tubes. And I'm pretty careful not to bend them when inflating, but it still happens, most recently last month. Maybe CO2 inflators really shorten their lives.
#9
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You mean the screwable tip gets bent and broken? On both TL and tubes use the same screwable valve which is easily replaceable. Just buy replacements - https://amzn.to/31wp85v
Are you using something like a topeak dual head pump? Buy a presta chuck/head that doesn't suck.
A lot of tubes get holes where the valve meets the tube, this problem is eliminated. You may get air leaks at the valve though.
Are you using something like a topeak dual head pump? Buy a presta chuck/head that doesn't suck.
A lot of tubes get holes where the valve meets the tube, this problem is eliminated. You may get air leaks at the valve though.
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Sounds like with tubeless it's a good idea to bring a couple of valve inserts and a key! Will the slime ever clog up the valve?
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Just to wrap this up, in case anyone ever finds this thread while looking for info on the wheels.
The wheelset is slightly heavy at 1800ish g, but not excessively so. The rear hub is VERY loud, in fact I can't recall ever encountering a louder hub. It wasn't a stopper for me, and I bought the bike with the wheels anyway, but I'll have to see how the hub grows on me. The wheels are 24 spoke, the rim outside is just over 25mm and my guess is the inside is 21mm or so. 28mm GP5000TL's fit almost inline with the rims, just a small profile bump at the bead, without ballooning. We're talking 1.5mm disparity.
Mine came mounted with 28mm tubed Conti GPs and taped with the supplied tubeless tape. Looking at OEM valves supplied this stuff is pretty generic and I bet almost any rim valve of 40-60mm length will work nicely with the rims. I got an extra bag of Gio presta cores and they look exactly like the ones supplied with the OEM kit, so I bet that's exactly what DT provides with the wheels. The 5000's were a chore to get onto the rim, but once installed seated nicely by inflating them with a floor pump. (I do have a compressor, but am glad I didn't have to haul it out.) 65/75psi F/R, with Orange goop and they run really well.
The logos appear silkscreened and unremovable, not a problem for me but I know some people care.
Love the Cervelo C3 and Ultegra Di2 internal - fantastic bike, fantastic groupset!
The wheelset is slightly heavy at 1800ish g, but not excessively so. The rear hub is VERY loud, in fact I can't recall ever encountering a louder hub. It wasn't a stopper for me, and I bought the bike with the wheels anyway, but I'll have to see how the hub grows on me. The wheels are 24 spoke, the rim outside is just over 25mm and my guess is the inside is 21mm or so. 28mm GP5000TL's fit almost inline with the rims, just a small profile bump at the bead, without ballooning. We're talking 1.5mm disparity.
Mine came mounted with 28mm tubed Conti GPs and taped with the supplied tubeless tape. Looking at OEM valves supplied this stuff is pretty generic and I bet almost any rim valve of 40-60mm length will work nicely with the rims. I got an extra bag of Gio presta cores and they look exactly like the ones supplied with the OEM kit, so I bet that's exactly what DT provides with the wheels. The 5000's were a chore to get onto the rim, but once installed seated nicely by inflating them with a floor pump. (I do have a compressor, but am glad I didn't have to haul it out.) 65/75psi F/R, with Orange goop and they run really well.
The logos appear silkscreened and unremovable, not a problem for me but I know some people care.
Love the Cervelo C3 and Ultegra Di2 internal - fantastic bike, fantastic groupset!
#12
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These need a 44mm valve at the shortest in my experience. 48mm is about perfect. All tubeless valves are almost the same. The exception being e-13 valves.
The hub does not get any quieter, but you can try putting a bit of grease on the pawls and splines by pulling the freehub.
The hub does not get any quieter, but you can try putting a bit of grease on the pawls and splines by pulling the freehub.
Last edited by jfranci3; 08-24-19 at 03:55 PM.