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Painting with Preval and Duplicolor

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Painting with Preval and Duplicolor

Old 08-23-19, 09:54 AM
  #26  
Moe Zhoost
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Originally Posted by Jicafold
Is it better to completely strip the frame down to bare metal, and then apply an etching primer, or is it good enough to sand the existing paint?
Lacquer reducer is a very effective solvent that can quickly eat into an incompatible paint substrate causing it to bubble up. I doubt that you want this sort of effect so best to take it down to bare metal. There may be some primers that would prevent this but you'd have to experiment.
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Old 08-23-19, 10:13 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Jicafold
Is it better to completely strip the frame down to bare metal, and then apply an etching primer, or is it good enough to sand the existing paint?
IME (limited) strip to bare metal, but really well any little bit of left over paint will show up as an imperfection in the finish

the cost to paint will really add up (depending on what you have in your garage) to way more than you would think: Mask for fumes, stripper, scrapers, steel wool, paint prep cleaner, sand paper, tack cloth, etching primer, sandable primer, color, clear, multiple preval cartridges, etc.

you can get a beautiful finish, but unless you use auto paint it simply wont be durable and if the bike is used it will show it soon in chips and such

unless these are super special frames, consider a powder coater.....who has bicyle experience.... it will probably be cheaper

Of course if you want the experience of do this, go for it, I have and won't again
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Old 08-24-19, 08:11 PM
  #28  
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Squirt pappy!,

One of the few time I have agreed with you straight off! I pay a specialized powder coat company in Indy $180 per bike to get it right, Acid dip, bead blast, phosphotize, and then powder coat with an option for later clear coat after decal installs . I have done about twenty so far with excellent results.
Pro Kote Indy is the company and so far they have been a great help for me. Smiles, MH
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Old 08-24-19, 09:10 PM
  #29  
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You can use a single part paint with good results if you clear it with 2000K two-part rattle can clear. The 2000K has a container within a container and when you pop the plug on the bottom it mixes. The results can be exceptional both in looks and durability.
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Old 08-29-19, 11:09 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Loose Chain
You can use a single part paint with good results if you clear it with 2000K two-part rattle can clear. The 2000K has a container within a container and when you pop the plug on the bottom it mixes. The results can be exceptional both in looks and durability.
So do you have to use the whole can right away once you pop that plug? Or can you put it on the shelf and use more like a month or so later?

And does Aircraft paint stripper go bad after a few months? It used to be clear...now its brown and doesn't seem to be doing much.

Last edited by Jicafold; 08-29-19 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 08-29-19, 03:13 PM
  #31  
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I have used Spray Max 2K with very good results. One $20 can will do two bicycles or one model aircraft. It comes out looking like glass,supper shinny. After a few days it is bullet proof. It will go over any paint but you can not go back over it with any Lacquer based product. Decals should go on before using it.. Once the can is started it will last for 3-7 days.
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Old 08-29-19, 04:38 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by EddyR
I have used Spray Max 2K with very good results. One $20 can will do two bicycles or one model aircraft. It comes out looking like glass,supper shinny. After a few days it is bullet proof. It will go over any paint but you can not go back over it with any Lacquer based product. Decals should go on before using it.. Once the can is started it will last for 3-7 days.
That's excellent information. Thank you. And if I wanted to put decals on top of a powder coat could I use this 2K over it?
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Old 08-29-19, 05:52 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Jicafold
That's excellent information. Thank you. And if I wanted to put decals on top of a powder coat could I use this 2K over it?
I recall the 2000K having a pot life of 24 hours, I may remember wrong. In any case, once it is activated it cannot be stored for long periods, the clock starts ticking and it must be used.

It can be used over any clean, dry finish including powder coat to seal decals.

Yes, you can apply decals to the 2000K as you would any finish on top if removal later is wanted but if you spray over a decal it will be on forever util a strong paint stripper is used or mechanical means such as sanding. It is a two-part, activated coating and is very durable.
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Old 09-09-19, 09:02 AM
  #34  
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Revisiting this...and knowing that the Spraymax 2K has a durable finish, wouldn't it be acceptable to to a Rustoleum or Duplicolor paint job knowing that it would have a durable clear finish over it with the 2k?

I haven't painted anything yet...still stripping frames.
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Old 07-13-20, 06:23 AM
  #35  
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Oh, this paint theme evokes wild flashbacks. Once, when I was studying at the university, I had a very complicated topic, of course I passed the material to the highest rating, go to the page if I wonder how, but thanks to the site anyway, otherwise I would not get the best score. Since then, any topic related to essays about painting evokes scary memories and thoughts from me

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Old 07-13-20, 09:11 AM
  #36  
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Best is a subjective term and just like everything in this old thread you dredged up, opinions will differ. Nice thing is, if you know how to paint your bike or anything else with spray equipment. It's easy to do any time you feel a need to change color.

However if you strip your bike, a local powder coater might do it for cheaper than you can get decent paints and equipment together for. Except maybe if you mean rattle can prices as "best"
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Old 07-14-20, 05:19 PM
  #37  
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I did an economy paint job 10 years ago using Rustoleum enamel. It turned out great; however took many weeks (many, many weeks) to cure to the point that I was comfortable building it up. I thinned it 50:50 with acetone and used an HVLP conversion gun.
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Old 07-14-20, 06:21 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Moe Zhoost
I did an economy paint job 10 years ago using Rustoleum enamel. It turned out great; however took many weeks (many, many weeks) to cure to the point that I was comfortable building it up. I thinned it 50:50 with acetone and used an HVLP conversion gun.
Got any pics?
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Old 07-16-20, 08:00 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Wileyone
Got any pics?
Shortly after painting:



Many years and 15,000 miles later. There are a few nicks and scratches, but the paint is holding up very well.


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