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Old 04-13-20, 06:37 PM
  #5801  
Minion1
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The ones without the logos are a later production run. If the website is reliable then they will be the legit item, they'll still come with all the correct packaging etc.
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Old 04-13-20, 06:56 PM
  #5802  
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Originally Posted by Minion1 View Post
The ones without the logos are a later production run. If the website is reliable then they will be the legit item, they'll still come with all the correct packaging etc.
Thank you much!
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Old 04-14-20, 02:35 AM
  #5803  
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Ok, I'm bored. My city just went into shelter in place. How about people share the plague workouts you're doing inside? Confined to my "home gym" which only has about 85kg of weight available and no rack so I'm experimenting with high volume hack squats. They are murder on the quads!

Whattcha got?
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Old 04-14-20, 07:50 AM
  #5804  
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I do not have weights. When my gym closed, I looked online to buy some, and well, weights are a lot more expensive than I realized. (By my math, it would take me about two years of gym membership to build a basic set up.) So, I went to the hardware store and bought bags of concrete. 50 and 80 lbs. Cost me less than $10. Had to put them in garbage bags and wrap them in duct tape to keep the bags from tearing, but I am doing squats and deadlifts with those.

While it's not a lot of weight, compared to what I used to squat and deadlift, the shape, density and fact that its a bit loose, makes it rather challenging.
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Old 04-14-20, 11:50 AM
  #5805  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
I do not have weights. When my gym closed, I looked online to buy some, and well, weights are a lot more expensive than I realized. (By my math, it would take me about two years of gym membership to build a basic set up.) So, I went to the hardware store and bought bags of concrete. 50 and 80 lbs. Cost me less than $10. Had to put them in garbage bags and wrap them in duct tape to keep the bags from tearing, but I am doing squats and deadlifts with those.

While it's not a lot of weight, compared to what I used to squat and deadlift, the shape, density and fact that its a bit loose, makes it rather challenging.
I remember reading an interview with Eric Heiden, where he said the US National speed-skating team had truck inner tubes filled with sand, which they would hold around their waists and do high-rep squats. I can't find the interview, but the link below has a thread where Heiden describes it.

https://www.letsrun.com/forum/flat_r...thread=1056178
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Old 04-15-20, 05:03 AM
  #5806  
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Plyo box step ups while wearing a weighted vest is a killer leg workout.

but, finding those may be a challenge being that all home workout gear is nearly sold out these days.

Also, search for “prison workouts”. I’ve had guys tell me that they came out of jail fitter than when they went in.
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Old 04-21-20, 11:45 AM
  #5807  
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stripped threads on hub lock ring side

I bought a used Miche Primato track hub (only fixed on one side, nothing on the other) and I foolishly built it on some Mavic Open Pro's before checking the threads.

The threads for the lock ring are striped. I can get only 1 rotation on it before the lock ring slips. Any advice on this? Is there a way I can chase the threads or retap them? (And yes I have been tightening the lock ring anti-clockwise)

It would be a shame to deconstruct the wheel and the cog threads are fine.



the initial thread on the lock ring side are stripped on this hub
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Old 04-21-20, 03:51 PM
  #5808  
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Unfortunately not a good way I know of to recover that.

If the wheel is track only... you could run it without a lockring, a fair amount of people do that.. and once it's on tight (a few good pedalstrokes) it will take some consistent backpressure or skid type maneuver to unscrew it.

Once, for a mountain biker we used a bottom bracket lockring we had laying around and screwed it onto the hub (same threads as the cog) now obviously in that scenario the cog and the lockring would both have the same directional threads, but with no directional force on the lockring (like the chain puts on the cog) it would be tough to spin it off.
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Old 05-10-20, 02:55 PM
  #5809  
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Sorry Morelock if I am responding improperly to your last post. Couldn't find out how to change the subject. I was reading about pedals in the earlier thread (2014 ish) and am in need of getting a new pedal system Ultra or Dura Ace level is ok by me. it seemed the old PD-7810s were highly recommended over some of the others but have been discontinued for a while now. I will be riding more of the enduro stuff at a Masters level (if we ever get out of this mess of a Covid 19) so standing start in the 500 and pursuit and mostly just general riding. So all who are we liking for all around Track pedals available today? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-10-20, 04:53 PM
  #5810  
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Moke Honestly all (big brand) pedals in the current day/age are fine for track for the vast majority of us. For everyone else, there are plenty of strap systems/diy solutions to make sure you don't pull a pedal. All the major brands have been used (successfully) by pro's/top sprinters.
Shimano, Look, Speedplay and (eww) Time are all acceptable
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Old 05-10-20, 05:10 PM
  #5811  
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Bike recommendation for njs build?

Hi, new here, not sure if right thread or way of posting. Could someone please recommend me a nice japanese frame for an NJS type build? I know the 3 rensho, Nagasawa and Anchor but the well know companies are too expensive for frames. Is there a great steel frame I can get cheaper? Like maybe something vintage (nishiki, sekai) but with high quality steel? Steel and price are important, not pedigree. Also brake holes in the forks are needed. It doesn't have to be a track frame per se. Thanks in advance. Cheers
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Old 05-11-20, 03:36 AM
  #5812  
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8pilgrim8 and Phil the power Taylor are 2 eBay sellers selling used Kieren gear from Japan, Phil does more frames. A lot of the frames will be dented but it might be worth looking there, just check the frames carefully.
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Old 05-11-20, 04:21 AM
  #5813  
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Originally Posted by YvesRouban View Post
Hi, new here, not sure if right thread or way of posting. Could someone please recommend me a nice japanese frame for an NJS type build? I know the 3 rensho, Nagasawa and Anchor but the well know companies are too expensive for frames. Is there a great steel frame I can get cheaper? Like maybe something vintage (nishiki, sekai) but with high quality steel? Steel and price are important, not pedigree. Also brake holes in the forks are needed. It doesn't have to be a track frame per se. Thanks in advance. Cheers
You won't find an actual NJS bike with brake holes, but Panasonic does make a road training version of their NJS track frame you can fit F&R brakes to. Prices are going up on those and I think they are now around $1000 for a new one. And they will make them to order for you. Last I checked there were some western vendors who sold them to non-Japanese speakers.
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Old 05-11-20, 01:35 PM
  #5814  
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Originally Posted by YvesRouban View Post
Hi, new here, not sure if right thread or way of posting. Could someone please recommend me a nice japanese frame for an NJS type build? I know the 3 rensho, Nagasawa and Anchor but the well know companies are too expensive for frames. Is there a great steel frame I can get cheaper? Like maybe something vintage (nishiki, sekai) but with high quality steel? Steel and price are important, not pedigree. Also brake holes in the forks are needed. It doesn't have to be a track frame per se. Thanks in advance. Cheers
Check eBay -- search for keirin track frames. Numerous frames at various prices. If you live in the USA I here there may be shipping issues related to covid-19.

Just curios; why do you want such a bike?
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Old 05-11-20, 05:50 PM
  #5815  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
You won't find an actual NJS bike with brake holes, but Panasonic does make a road training version of their NJS track frame you can fit F&R brakes to. Prices are going up on those and I think they are now around $1000 for a new one. And they will make them to order for you. Last I checked there were some western vendors who sold them to non-Japanese speakers.
If you wanted to be really hip you could also run the fork/seatstay clamp brakes the actual racers use

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Old 06-01-20, 12:02 PM
  #5816  
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Anyone ever tried or have fitted bigger chainring to a Dolan TC1 ? I am looking to buy 56-58-60 chainring but not sure they will clear the chainstay
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