Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#6726
bOsscO
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 746
Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
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Cool thanks! We'll see what comes to light as I continue. If I can find a serial # maybe I can narrow down the age.
#6727
Senior Member
Not sure if they made them late enough to have V-brake specific cable routing with no canti hanger, but that would be '97ish.
#6728
bOsscO
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
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Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
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Bottom bracket yoke
Seat post diameter is 26.8mm.
Original sticker on toptube says OMP
Canti hanger on rear
Rear brake bosses
Headtube diameter is 1.25''.
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#6730
Senior Member
Matches this '95 IBOC Comp: Mongoose IBOC Comp SX 1995 | Retrobike
I would be careful if stripping the paint that's left with anything harsh. Looks to have bonded main tubes.
I would be careful if stripping the paint that's left with anything harsh. Looks to have bonded main tubes.
#6731
Junior Member
Cannondale M800, Continued
Took the plunge a couple of weeks ago and ordered parts from all over, which eventually all arrived. Spent yesterday putting things together, and went for an 80km shake-down spin today. Nothing rattled, and nothing fell off. Happy enough with how it turned out, I haven't decided what to do regarding rack or luggage, not settled on saddle or pedals, but I'll leave it as is for a while. It's pretty tall, due to the high bottom bracket on these bikes, approx 2" higher than normal. The brace between the chainstays wasn't drilled for a fender, so I ended up with a bit of a bodge, using a Daruma eyebolt and cable tie, if anyone has a better suggestion, let me know.
Nitto Threadless Adapter, Nitto Bars, Ergotec Stem, Gran Compe Friction Bar end Shifters, Cane Creek V Brake Levers, Berthoud Fenders, Compass Naches Pass Tyres.
Cheers, Niall.
M800 Before
M800 After
Nitto Threadless Adapter, Nitto Bars, Ergotec Stem, Gran Compe Friction Bar end Shifters, Cane Creek V Brake Levers, Berthoud Fenders, Compass Naches Pass Tyres.
Cheers, Niall.
M800 Before
M800 After
Last edited by Niall Dublin; 06-07-20 at 05:06 PM.
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#6732
bOsscO
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 746
Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
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Matches this '95 IBOC Comp: Mongoose IBOC Comp SX 1995 | Retrobike
I would be careful if stripping the paint that's left with anything harsh. Looks to have bonded main tubes.
I would be careful if stripping the paint that's left with anything harsh. Looks to have bonded main tubes.
#6733
Senior Member
Cool thanks for the info on the IBOC model, and warning on paint removal. Rather than paint stripper would multiple steps of metal specific sandpaper be a safe alternative for this frame? I've seen a few videos of this starting with 400 grit, then 800, and 1500 to finish. https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/com...4529206&rt=rud
Pretty sure I've seen a bonded frame on here that was powder coated and the person seems to be alive still. It just seems like a bad idea to attack decades old bonded joints with solvents and/or heat though.
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#6734
2-Wheeled Fool
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I would think doing it all by hand would be okay. Wet paint would probably be the way to go if you want to paint it.
Pretty sure I've seen a bonded frame on here that was powder coated and the person seems to be alive still. It just seems like a bad idea to attack decades old bonded joints with solvents and/or heat though.
Pretty sure I've seen a bonded frame on here that was powder coated and the person seems to be alive still. It just seems like a bad idea to attack decades old bonded joints with solvents and/or heat though.
#6735
bOsscO
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 746
Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
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I would think doing it all by hand would be okay. Wet paint would probably be the way to go if you want to paint it.
Pretty sure I've seen a bonded frame on here that was powder coated and the person seems to be alive still. It just seems like a bad idea to attack decades old bonded joints with solvents and/or heat though.
Pretty sure I've seen a bonded frame on here that was powder coated and the person seems to be alive still. It just seems like a bad idea to attack decades old bonded joints with solvents and/or heat though.
I've repainted composite and bonded frames with little more than wet-sanding and a coat of primer. as in this case however, a little more sanding will be required to remove the hideous respray coat. Laborious, surely, but it can be a soul-soothing exercise if you do it right. I sometimes take a frame and an assortment of abrasives and water out to my deck and sit there and enjoy the air while I merrily sand away the sins of the previous owner. Sun shining. Birds singing. Breezes blowing. Ahh!
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#6736
Junior Member
Not MY conversion but the one owner before me... I’m not sure I like it yet, I’ve got some fiddling to do with it to get it just right but always wanted a 90’s Stumpy, and I think this is a ‘90 or ‘91. I added a vintage Blackburn rack for a bag for the family, and I love those Sim Works/Panaracer Homage tires. Got it cheap too.... it also came with ALL the original components.
Voo
Voo
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#6737
bOsscO
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Vancouver
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Bikes: 2024 Spec Crux, 2015 Norco Search S1, 93 Mongoose IBOC COMP
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Not MY conversion but the one owner before me... I’m not sure I like it yet, I’ve got some fiddling to do with it to get it just right but always wanted a 90’s Stumpy, and I think this is a ‘90 or ‘91. I added a vintage Blackburn rack for a bag for the family, and I love those Sim Works/Panaracer Homage tires. Got it cheap too.... it also came with ALL the original components.
Voo
Voo
#6738
Junior Member
Ha, Thanks! It is pristine...I bought this one and an '88 Hard Rock for 200$. I picked them up and was shocked for the price. They are pristine... I only found one or two spots that are chipped. No dents, dings, nothing...a scratch here and there that buffed out but other than that they are both in pristine condition. Here is the SS '88 Hard Rock...it is a rocket.
I will probably change out the drop bars back to a MTB setup for the Stumpy... or maybe just raise them up some, not in love with the setup...not real comfortable to me.
I will probably change out the drop bars back to a MTB setup for the Stumpy... or maybe just raise them up some, not in love with the setup...not real comfortable to me.
#6739
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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#6740
Junior Member
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#6742
Senior Member
#6743
Junior Member
Stupid question and I'm probably overthinking it:
I feel like I need additional reach and I'm close to maxing out the height of my stem. Does the minimal insertion line need to be below the top bearings of the headset or the top of the headtube? Or is it just a simple matter of, as long as you don't see the minimal insertion line then you're fine?
I feel like I need additional reach and I'm close to maxing out the height of my stem. Does the minimal insertion line need to be below the top bearings of the headset or the top of the headtube? Or is it just a simple matter of, as long as you don't see the minimal insertion line then you're fine?
#6744
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Bikes: Dawes Lightning DLX, 1988 Klein Performance, 1991 Peugeot Safari, 1985 Raleigh Alyeska, Carrera Phantom, 1973 Raleigh Record
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Stupid question and I'm probably overthinking it:
I feel like I need additional reach and I'm close to maxing out the height of my stem. Does the minimal insertion line need to be below the top bearings of the headset or the top of the headtube? Or is it just a simple matter of, as long as you don't see the minimal insertion line then you're fine?
I feel like I need additional reach and I'm close to maxing out the height of my stem. Does the minimal insertion line need to be below the top bearings of the headset or the top of the headtube? Or is it just a simple matter of, as long as you don't see the minimal insertion line then you're fine?
You might want to try a stem that extends farther forward, too.
#6745
Enthusiast
Haro
My old 80's Haro converted into a 3x1 speed. Perfect for cruising the trails around town....
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#6746
Full Member
My Marin project in almost it's final form. Set up as a 1x7. Carried me along a comfortable 25 miles for her inaugural ride this past weekend.
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#6747
Junior Member
To me they ride like very lively steel bikes - but heavier than the super lightweight, whippy stuff. It's not weird or super alien or anything - and it's certainly not "mid suspension" of any meaningful type. I've owned many and find them to be a lot of fun. It's perfect for how I have it setup now and I ride it off road somewhat frequently still.
#6748
Enthusiast
Haro Front View
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#6750
High Plains Luddite
Ha, Thanks! It is pristine...I bought this one and an '88 Hard Rock for 200$. I picked them up and was shocked for the price. They are pristine... I only found one or two spots that are chipped. No dents, dings, nothing...a scratch here and there that buffed out but other than that they are both in pristine condition. Here is the SS '88 Hard Rock...it is a rocket.
I will probably change out the drop bars back to a MTB setup for the Stumpy... or maybe just raise them up some, not in love with the setup...not real comfortable to me.
I will probably change out the drop bars back to a MTB setup for the Stumpy... or maybe just raise them up some, not in love with the setup...not real comfortable to me.
Does anyone know if those late '80s Specialized MTB have a wide enough frame to take a modern 8/9/10-speed rear wheel? I saw a twin of that one (same size and color) on craigslist recently that tempted me but it had a 6-speed rear wheel and I figured I just wouldn't bother with it for that reason alone.