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Addiction LXXIX

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Addiction LXXIX

Old 08-06-20, 08:44 AM
  #651  
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Originally Posted by bampilot06
If you are really concerned could you use AG wheel in the meantime?
Ha I have a whole selection of Jets I could use, including two backup 6+ fronts. Just hoping to not need to swap tires, but I suppose I should. Then I can just cart the wheel down to the shop for a true anyway.
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Old 08-06-20, 08:44 AM
  #652  
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
Enormous nostrils/ nasal cavity/ everything heading into their lungs, as I recall. I read about them back in my XC days. Fastest sustained land speed in the animal kingdom, yes.
Dual exhausts? Overhead cam?
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Old 08-06-20, 08:48 AM
  #653  
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Update you don't need on a story you don't care about: I finally took the Ritchey out for a ride with the new stem and bars. First thing I noticed is it felt "taller", which is odd because I measured and adjusted the height of the bars to exactly match what it had been. Second thing I noticed was that, instead of the bar blocking my view of the front hub while in the drops, the hub is clearly visible behind the bar - which I guess makes sense, since the stem is 1 cm longer, but the bar has 7mm less reach. This is a little disconcerting because I've always used 'bar blocks view of hub' as an indicator of proper position.

After 8 miles. I rotated the bars down. That was a bit too much, so 4 miles later I turned them back up about halfway. The rest of the ride, about 8 miles, was into the wind, so I spent most of that distance in the drops or on the top of the hoods, which felt pretty good. No lower back issues, reach to brakes felt right, hands comfy on the drops.
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Old 08-06-20, 08:49 AM
  #654  
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
Ha I have a whole selection of Jets I could use, including two backup 6+ fronts. Just hoping to not need to swap tires, but I suppose I should. Then I can just cart the wheel down to the shop for a true anyway.

trying to think of something witty. I got nothing.
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Old 08-06-20, 08:54 AM
  #655  
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Originally Posted by rjones28
There are 50 things to like on BF?
Yes
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People here don't get it.
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Old 08-06-20, 09:27 AM
  #656  
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Originally Posted by datlas
It looks like you are limited to 50 “likes” per day on BF. Who knew?
Those of us who keep up with the latest BF news knew:

https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sug...e-per-day.html
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Old 08-06-20, 09:29 AM
  #657  
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Tire swapped onto my P2 front Jet6+, which is now being held up by AG's P3's front Jet6+, which is currently being held up by the old wheel from her B16 while it's on the trainer so that a nice front wheel doesn't get sweated on on the trainer. In a pinch I also had two front Jet5 C2s and a front Belgium+. And a spare front Altamont.

Really ought to sell some of that...
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Old 08-06-20, 09:31 AM
  #658  
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
Those of us who keep up with the latest BF news knew:

https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sug...e-per-day.html
Thanks, but I seem to be limited to < 1 ****.
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Old 08-06-20, 09:34 AM
  #659  
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Originally Posted by abshipp
Anyone ever made a bike repair with JB Weld?

I have indeed.
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Old 08-06-20, 09:37 AM
  #660  
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Originally Posted by genejockey
Update you don't need on a story you don't care about: I finally took the Ritchey out for a ride with the new stem and bars. First thing I noticed is it felt "taller", which is odd because I measured and adjusted the height of the bars to exactly match what it had been. Second thing I noticed was that, instead of the bar blocking my view of the front hub while in the drops, the hub is clearly visible behind the bar - which I guess makes sense, since the stem is 1 cm longer, but the bar has 7mm less reach. This is a little disconcerting because I've always used 'bar blocks view of hub' as an indicator of proper position.

After 8 miles. I rotated the bars down. That was a bit too much, so 4 miles later I turned them back up about halfway. The rest of the ride, about 8 miles, was into the wind, so I spent most of that distance in the drops or on the top of the hoods, which felt pretty good. No lower back issues, reach to brakes felt right, hands comfy on the drops.
I'd actually be really interested in fool-proof methods for fitting myself to a bike. And figuring out proper geometry. Cicli Barco is happy to make something in the Aspero geometry (even a discount for using an existing geometry) but the 54 is actually closer to my road position than the 56. Is that good? Who knows! I'd like to know before I drop that kind of money.
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Old 08-06-20, 09:37 AM
  #661  
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Originally Posted by datlas
Car update, recall my 18 year old bashed into a big log and bent the front passenger wheel on the 2007 Odyssey Minivan. We actually do have collision coverage on the car, which I think is worth about $4500....estimate from body shop to repair is $3500 and insurance company "thinks" the actual cash value of the car is $3200 so they just want to total it out and pay us the 3200 minus our deductible of $500.

I am thinking we could get the body shop to do just "necessary" repairs to get the car working and screw the superficial/cosmetic damage for something a bit LESS than 3K, and the last thing I want to do is go car shopping during a pandemic.

I have to be an intermediary between body shop and insurance company and hope we can agree to get the car fixed somehow.

Suggestions?
I guess the question is how much will it cost to get it road worthy and after it's repaired will it be serviceable long enough to justify the expense. It's up to you, really. Some people might tell you the car isn't worth anything but if it does what you want it to and the looks/age doesn't bother you then it's worth it to you.

My old Blazer broke the timing chain and I had it towed to the shop and my boss was shocked that I was going to fix it. (It was no big deal, really), but he just thought it was such a piece of crap nobody would want to fix it. I think I drove it for 4 or 5 years after that.
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Old 08-06-20, 09:38 AM
  #662  
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Originally Posted by big john
I guess the question is how much will it cost to get it road worthy and after it's repaired will it be serviceable long enough to justify the expense. It's up to you, really. Some people might tell you the car isn't worth anything but if it does what you want it to and the looks/age doesn't bother you then it's worht it to you.

My old Blazer broke teh timing chain and I had it towed to the shop and my boss was shocked that I was going to fix it. (It was no big deal, really), but he just thought it was such a piece of crap nobody would want to fix it. I think I drove it for 4 or 5 years after that.
I am waiting to hear back from the insurance company, but it is sounding like more of a pain to fix the car than it's worth so we may be getting a new Honda Fit for mrs datlas soon. One of my patients is the sales manager at the local Honda so I am hoping he can help us a bit, although I understand the margins on the economy cars is pretty tight anyway.
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Old 08-06-20, 09:42 AM
  #663  
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Originally Posted by datlas
I am waiting to hear back from the insurance company, but it is sounding like more of a pain to fix the car than it's worth so we may be getting a new Honda Fit for mrs datlas soon. One of my patients is the sales manager at the local Honda so I am hoping he can help us a bit, although I understand the margins on the economy cars is pretty tight anyway.
Sometimes when they total a car they will just let the owner keep it, or buy it back from the insurance company. Then you can do whatever you want with it.
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Old 08-06-20, 09:49 AM
  #664  
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Originally Posted by datlas
I am waiting to hear back from the insurance company, but it is sounding like more of a pain to fix the car than it's worth so we may be getting a new Honda Fit for mrs datlas soon. One of my patients is the sales manager at the local Honda so I am hoping he can help us a bit, although I understand the margins on the economy cars is pretty tight anyway.
Why not get a couple of bids from local dealers and ask him what he thinks of them?
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Old 08-06-20, 09:54 AM
  #665  
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Originally Posted by datlas
I am waiting to hear back from the insurance company, but it is sounding like more of a pain to fix the car than it's worth so we may be getting a new Honda Fit for mrs datlas soon. One of my patients is the sales manager at the local Honda so I am hoping he can help us a bit, although I understand the margins on the economy cars is pretty tight anyway.
Non-existent. When AG bought hers they were willing to negotiate trade-in value of her CR-V, but there was no chance of budging the price of the Fit by a dollar. The only reason the manufacturers sell Fits/ Corollas/ Cruzes is to hope that when you get a promotion and have a kid you want to stick with the brand when you buy something they can make some money on.
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Old 08-06-20, 09:59 AM
  #666  
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
I have indeed.
What kind of repair was it? And did it hold up?

I've got a MTB frame with a cracked weld, you can see grease pushing through in the below picture. I'm thinking about using a 30.9-27.2 seatpost shim as an internal reinforcing sleeve and JB Weld-ing it in place:




I talked to the manufacturer of the frame and they told me that it would be possible to weld, but I'd need to get it heat treated and honed afterwards, and the frame really isn't worth the expense. But it's worth it to spend $15 on a shim and a tube of JB, if it would hold up a decently long time.
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Old 08-06-20, 10:00 AM
  #667  
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New Jam Day!!!! Had it on some buttered 7-sprouted-grain raisin bread. YUM!

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Old 08-06-20, 10:10 AM
  #668  
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Originally Posted by abshipp
What kind of repair was it? And did it hold up?

I've got a MTB frame with a cracked weld, you can see grease pushing through in the below picture. I'm thinking about using a 30.9-27.2 seatpost shim as an internal reinforcing sleeve and JB Weld-ing it in place:




I talked to the manufacturer of the frame and they told me that it would be possible to weld, but I'd need to get it heat treated and honed afterwards, and the frame really isn't worth the expense. But it's worth it to spend $15 on a shim and a tube of JB, if it would hold up a decently long time.
Odyssey has front passenger wheel bent. Apparently the frame and suspension are involved. The body actually looks ok.

Current dealer website shows base Fit MSRP 17.9K and on "sale" for 17.6K. I think we have some "rewards" valuing several hundred dollars towards next purchase (from loyalty program for the minivan repairs), not sure how much of a better deal I can get but will see. I think the Fit makes more sense than the Civic because of versatile seats for cargo etc. even though it's a smaller car. A new base Civic is about 21K.

I honestly think the new car will go from mrs datlas to me if/when the Saturn dies anyway and I don't care much about cars, obv.
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Old 08-06-20, 10:12 AM
  #669  
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Man. I drank 6 bottles of water/sports drink on the bike yesterday (it wasn't hot, the sun wasn't beating down and I was at an endurance pace) and drank another 5 or so glasses of water in the evening... and I still weighed in more than 3 lbs lighter than yesterday.
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Old 08-06-20, 10:18 AM
  #670  
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
Man. I drank 6 bottles of water/sports drink on the bike yesterday (it wasn't hot, the sun wasn't beating down and I was at an endurance pace) and drank another 5 or so glasses of water in the evening... and I still weighed in more than 3 lbs lighter than yesterday.
You have three fluid compartments to fill. The first is circulating plasma; the second is the interstitial space (in tissue between cells); and the third is intracellular. Transfer from compartment to compartment, particularly from interstitial to intracellular is slow. You can dilute your plasma and piss like a race horse while your cells are still dehydrated.

Then there is the weight of muscle and liver glycogen and the water bound in its crystalline structure. That can take a day to replenish too.

Last edited by MoAlpha; 08-06-20 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 08-06-20, 10:28 AM
  #671  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
. You can dilute your plasma and piss like a race horse while your cells are still dehydrated..
Been there, done that.
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Old 08-06-20, 10:50 AM
  #672  
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
Man. I drank 6 bottles of water/sports drink on the bike yesterday (it wasn't hot, the sun wasn't beating down and I was at an endurance pace) and drank another 5 or so glasses of water in the evening... and I still weighed in more than 3 lbs lighter than yesterday.
I didn't even dare to check the scale this morning, but I had four bottles in savage heat and drank all afternoon and still didn't have to pee until bedtime. And woke up starving for extra dinner.
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Old 08-06-20, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by datlas
Odyssey has front passenger wheel bent. Apparently the frame and suspension are involved. The body actually looks ok.

Current dealer website shows base Fit MSRP 17.9K and on "sale" for 17.6K. I think we have some "rewards" valuing several hundred dollars towards next purchase (from loyalty program for the minivan repairs), not sure how much of a better deal I can get but will see. I think the Fit makes more sense than the Civic because of versatile seats for cargo etc. even though it's a smaller car. A new base Civic is about 21K.

I honestly think the new car will go from mrs datlas to me if/when the Saturn dies anyway and I don't care much about cars, obv.
The Fit is a better Civic than the Civic.
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Old 08-06-20, 10:54 AM
  #674  
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
Why not get a couple of bids from local dealers and ask him what he thinks of them?
There is only one local dealer and it's his.
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Old 08-06-20, 10:56 AM
  #675  
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Originally Posted by abshipp
What kind of repair was it? And did it hold up?

I've got a MTB frame with a cracked weld, you can see grease pushing through in the below picture. I'm thinking about using a 30.9-27.2 seatpost shim as an internal reinforcing sleeve and JB Weld-ing it in place:




I talked to the manufacturer of the frame and they told me that it would be possible to weld, but I'd need to get it heat treated and honed afterwards, and the frame really isn't worth the expense. But it's worth it to spend $15 on a shim and a tube of JB, if it would hold up a decently long time.
I had a mountain bike with the same problem (my seat post was too short). Had it welded and it was fine. That crack looks a lot longer than just where the grease is showing.
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