Masque

Presuming you’re asking specifically about inflation and tire health items:
• Plug kit (like Genuine Innovations UST Tubeless Plug Patch Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B139BA0/ ) for very bad punctures.
• Spare tube and tire boot, for the worst case.
• CO2 inflator, if you’re so inclined. I consider this part of the spare tube.

Those and a pump and you’re golden. It takes one heck of a flat to cause a significant loss in pressure before the tire seals, so the pump is insurance and the tube is your “spare tire”.

HNg1970

Thank you so so so much. Now just get the bike built! LBS has all the parts for 3 weeks and counting.

Doge

50mm is the new 90mm.

Dean V

For MTB handlebar stems.

HNg1970

Hope you guys can really shed wisdom on these wheels. I am at point of returning or getting rid of these wheels.
My wheels with Chris King upgrade arrived. After 35 miles, the rear wheels are not rolling as freely as my 303, 404, or Vision.
Is there a break-in period before "rotating resistance" is no longer an issue?
My trusted LBS tells me this is normal break-in period.
Thank you.

HNg1970

Perhaps more background of the issue:
Ordered with Chris King Upgrade
Arrived with QR instead of Thru-Axle. LBS ordered kit to convert.
Within 15 miles, noticed wheel had bad disc-brake rub. LBS said it was due to "hub falling off". Fixed
LBS also informed me that they are waiting for a Chris-King Kit to fix the bottom bracket. Apparently not fit too well with my Sram Red/Quarq.
During next 60 miles, when on bike rack, wheel does not rotate as freely as Zipp 404, Vision. Though these are on different bike.
Brought the bike back to LBS, they told me it needs break-in period.

I love my LBS. But does this make sense?
Thanks

Seattle Forrest

Mine didn't have a break-in period. I have DT 240 hubs.

GuitarBob

Nope, not to me.

FamilyMan007

Makes no sense to me based on my experience with the 'standard' DT hubs - just love the wheels (using Schwalbe Pro One 28mm @ about 60psi)


On reflection, I find it a little unusual to order QR with disk brakes in 2017 (I understand one of the important benefits of Thru-axle is a precise placement of the disk-rotor each and every time wheel is inserted in the frame)
- I think someone must have made a very specific request for that combination.
- Did you ever phone ENVE about this order? I have found their customer service personnel to be very good.

mtbpete

The Chris king hub ratchet system has more drag when coasting than some other hub. The bearings also have good seals. Each of these will break in some and result in a smoother coasting wheel. But most of it is the ratchet system which is normal. You may also have bearings that are not adjusted properly and the preload is too tight.

HNg1970

Took back to my bike shop and per them preload is correct.
Contacted Enve and their response below. This is educational to all of us. Perhaps, DT would be a better options.

"It is true that Chris King hubs do have a break in period...from our personal experience I've only seen them get smoother and smoother over time. To some extent, every hub has a break in period as the teeth begins to take shape and the grease works in the the mechanisms."

152 miles, as of today and still rotating with drag. IF I were to do this all over again, as of today, I would have gone with other wheels.

GuitarBob

Huh, I still find some of that surprising. Teeth take shape? Anyway, thanks for following up.

Dean V

11 posts on BF and all of them knocking this wheelset!!
Maybe the issue is with the LBS?
There is no reason why they can't be set up to be as good or better than any other hub/wheelset out there.
Are you happy with the way they ride?
Can you notice this drag slowing you down when you ride or is it only noticable when you spin them off the ground?

joejack951

There's no such thing as a perfectly made part. Gears in transmissions have break-in periods and I see no reason why not to expect a freehub ratchet mechanism to require some break-in, too. However, I'm far more inclined to believe that the seals in the bearings are what the source of the drag is, but that is also something that will get smoother over time.

The beauty of freehub drag is that it goes away if you pedal your bike

HNg1970

My LBS is great. Same person takes care of my Pinarello, Erickson, Niners, Cervelo.... So this is why I am so frustrated with these wheels.

I like the way these ride at pressure of 65. However, do notice issue during ride and rolling of of the ground. It is not bad. Since I waited so long for the correct hub and paid good $ for them, am I being too picky?

Seattle Forrest

What do you mean exactly?

HNg1970

Well we found out partial issue today.
After 58 miles, while I was dying keeping up 26mph, one my fellow rider drafting behind me for the last 2 miles, noted the rear wheel has lateral movement.
On my Kuat bike carried, lateral slack was noticeable. Even with 180 lbs on the bike the wheel showed similar lateral slack.
Drop the bike at LBS.

FamilyMan007

I can understand frustration if your 4.5ARs are failing to meet your expectations for the $ spent.

As previously indicated, I am loving my 4.5ARs built with DT-240 hubs (just wish I was a stronger cyclist so I could realise the full benefit from these outstanding wheels!)

I do not know if you are being too picky. However, at this stage I think I should leave you to sort this out on your own - right or wrong (see pre-apology below) my impression is you have developed fixed views about certain aspects of the situation:
~ issues started with QR (but you ignored more than one suggestion to contact ENVE to find out the background to this situation);
~ you have concerns about the CK hubs, which I have no experience of but I believe have a good reputation. (I note you contacted ENVE about these hubs, but not CK directly);
~ your concern about the hubs seems to have turned you off the entire wheel (despite all other input on the quality of these wheels being uniformly positive);
~ you maintain a complete trust in your LBS, but (i) you did not check with ENVE re the QR issue (seems quite possible to me that LBS to blame); and now (ii) you have an issue with lateral movement of the wheel. As stated, I have no experience with CK hubs, but if that is a potential issue with the hubs I would expect an excellent LBS to be alerting you to need for checking. Thought, did the LBS respond to your question about over-loading by loosening too much?

I apologize in advance if I am misreading the situation - perhaps I am in a difficult mood because winter has descended up in Canada and I am likely restricted to the trainer for 10 weeks or so.

Hope you manage to sort everything out, and get to enjoy the 4.5ARs before too long.

HNg1970

I am not dedicated enough to be on a trainer. Bought the Wahoo, Monitor stands.... Used it (3) times and they are aging quite nicely.

Regarding the QR, after my frame maker and LBS recommended these wheels, I configured the wheels online and sent the link to LBS. There were NO QR options at all. I called and sent them email questioning why QR was sent (we had to wait for the wheels to be made)l and they skirted the issue. Once the conversion kit arrived, they finally responded "...glad that the correct axle kit was provided and you are rolling..."

Perhaps these wheels are like wines, I am not good enough to appreciate. I can't tell the huge difference between 2014 and 2012 Joseph Phelps. Sadly, my significant other can. Just finished ride on my backup titanium with newer Zipp 454/Corsa 28mm. To be honest, I wouldn't miss the Enve at all if they don't come back.

HNg1970

oh BTW, this will the third preload adjuster...within 200 miles.

Dean V

It isn't brain surgery. They are just bike hubs.
Your LBS should be able to tear them down, diagnose faults (if any), fix them, and reassemble them.
If they can't do that find someone that can.
Venting about mystery faults on a public forum won't solve anything.

Seattle Forrest

Hey, look at that. I started this thread a year ago today.

Might as well update it.

I bought the wheels, back around when I started this thread. And loved them. Enve even hard a promotion going and threw in a free road bar.

Then the bike/wheels got stolen, it was locked in the car for a rest stop, somebody broke the window. Riding on just regular very good wheels was kind of disappointing after getting used to the 4.5 ARs. They're incredibly smooth, very fast, handle beautifully, they're better in cross winds than they have any right to be. I'm a little heavy by road standards, and I beat the crap out of these wheels. So I got another set. And guess what? They're fantastic wheels.

New bike:

SkepticalOne

^Remember your early posts...

I've put about 7,000km on mine since getting them...wouldn't want to be rinding anything else...

Ald1 

Can you use compass spampede pass 32mm on these rims?

HTupolev

It's not recommended.

First, the rims use a special hookless wall design that relies on a very stiff bead to securely mount the tire. The Stampede Pass is a non-tubeless tire, so it isn't guaranteed to have an appropriate bead. It might work, but it might also be more blowout-prone.

Second, the Stampede Pass has a nominal width of 32mm, whike the 4.5 AR is optimized for tires of 28-30mm. A too-big tire can prevent the rim from smoothly capturing the airflow off the tire, compromising the purpose of the wheels. Not a huge issue, but one that I'd care about if I was dropping $3000 on a wheelset.