For the love of English 3 speeds...
11-02-15, 12:00 PM
#8401
Bike Butcher of Portland
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@gster - great looking bikes!
I have a photo of him doing some final grinding but don't want to post without his permission.
I have a photo of him doing some final grinding but don't want to post without his permission.
edit: looking at the photos, if I knew my work was going to be in close ups, I woulda polished it up through 240 grit!
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
Last edited by gugie; 11-02-15 at 12:22 PM.
11-02-15, 12:17 PM
#8402
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Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed
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@gster - great looking bikes!
So @gugie agreed to do some welding work for me on my 1971 Raleigh Twenty. I'm using modern brakes and the rear one wouldn't reach the rim (Tektro R559), so wanted the rear brake bridge plate moved down. The plate serves 3 purposes; brake bridge, fender mount and original rack mount. I am using a modern rack, so he suggested using those eyelets for mounting racks on the seat stays, then using a normal piece for the brake bridge. I also had him remove the chain guard attatchment piece since I am not using the chain guard. Of course now it will really need painting.
Raleigh Twenty Brake Bridge by velocivixen, on Flickr
R20 New Bridge by velocivixen, on Flickr
Rack Eyelets R20 by velocivixen, on Flickr
I have a photo of him doing some final grinding but don't want to post without his permission.
So @gugie agreed to do some welding work for me on my 1971 Raleigh Twenty. I'm using modern brakes and the rear one wouldn't reach the rim (Tektro R559), so wanted the rear brake bridge plate moved down. The plate serves 3 purposes; brake bridge, fender mount and original rack mount. I am using a modern rack, so he suggested using those eyelets for mounting racks on the seat stays, then using a normal piece for the brake bridge. I also had him remove the chain guard attatchment piece since I am not using the chain guard. Of course now it will really need painting.
Raleigh Twenty Brake Bridge by velocivixen, on FlickrR20 New Bridge by velocivixen, on FlickrRack Eyelets R20 by velocivixen, on FlickrI have a photo of him doing some final grinding but don't want to post without his permission.
Looking forward to seeing this one finished.
g
11-02-15, 01:06 PM
#8403
Bike Butcher of Portland
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Here's a photo of @gugie doing the final touches.
Mark's Final Touches by velocivixen, on Flickr
Mark's Final Touches by velocivixen, on Flickr
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
11-02-15, 02:04 PM
#8404
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
I opted for V brakes when I modded my P20 and have added V brake bosses to a number of frames... if a 20 is going to get a new coat of powder or paint it is worthwhile to add bosses or bridges for better brakes.
Your work looks great btw.
Your work looks great btw.
11-02-15, 03:18 PM
#8405
Abuse Magnet
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Happy belated birthday, @Sixty Fiver! 
11-02-15, 03:31 PM
#8406
Senior Member
@Sixty Fiver - Your R20's have been an inspiration. They are all quite unique.
11-02-15, 03:38 PM
#8407
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
@Sixty Fiver - Your R20's have been an inspiration. They are all quite unique.
Am presently building a number of SA coaster hubs for customers, this solves the rear brake issue nicely.
11-02-15, 03:56 PM
#8408
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Thanks for the compliment! For small wheeled bikes, V brakes are good choices. Velocivixen is lithe and lean, the Tektros are more than adequate for her needs, IMO.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
11-02-15, 04:01 PM
#8409
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
I have to warn people about the brakes on my P20... it stops on a dime and gives back a nickel in change.
11-02-15, 05:11 PM
#8410
Senior Member
@ Sixty Fiver - I searched this and can't find specific info so please bear with me when I ask. My Raleigh chain wheel has 46 teeth. When I tried a 48 tooth it rubbed the chainstay. So my question is: if I were to have the bottom bracket cut down to 73 & rethreaded to standard would I be able to get a bb with a long enough spindle (square taper) so the teeth would not scratch the frame? Longest is usually about 127.5 or so.
11-02-15, 06:01 PM
#8411
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Wouldn't it be easier to get a larger rear cog? That would prevent a lot of work.
11-02-15, 06:06 PM
#8412
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Meant "smaller." Can't edit or do much else these days in this forum.
11-02-15, 06:18 PM
#8413
Senior Member
The issue is the current cottered crankset is fine, but I may want to go cotterless using a square taper bottom bracket. The issue isn't gear inches or anything. With a modern chainring I would maybe go as low as 46t.
11-02-15, 07:48 PM
#8414
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
@ Sixty Fiver - I searched this and can't find specific info so please bear with me when I ask. My Raleigh chain wheel has 46 teeth. When I tried a 48 tooth it rubbed the chainstay. So my question is: if I were to have the bottom bracket cut down to 73 & rethreaded to standard would I be able to get a bb with a long enough spindle (square taper) so the teeth would not scratch the frame? Longest is usually about 127.5 or so.
11-02-15, 10:40 PM
#8415
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I've noticed, not on 20s but on the Sports models is that sometimes there's a flat hammered into the right chainstay for added clearance behind the chainwheel and sometimes there isn't. I think this was done at the factory because the paint is undisturbed. A fudge factor sort of thing. Anyway, setting the chainstay against an anvil and hammering it a bit flatter seems to be one way to keep the chainwheel from rubbing on the frame.
Have you decided on a color yet?
Have you decided on a color yet?
11-03-15, 08:23 AM
#8416
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
I've noticed, not on 20s but on the Sports models is that sometimes there's a flat hammered into the right chainstay for added clearance behind the chainwheel and sometimes there isn't. I think this was done at the factory because the paint is undisturbed. A fudge factor sort of thing. Anyway, setting the chainstay against an anvil and hammering it a bit flatter seems to be one way to keep the chainwheel from rubbing on the frame.
Have you decided on a color yet?
Have you decided on a color yet?
11-03-15, 08:53 AM
#8417
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I can see that. One thing I know for sure is that this low carbon steel can be heated and not become hard and brittle. It can also take plenty of cold forging without weakening. I think that if modifying the BB and crank caused clearance problems, forging a flat on the chainsay would be a legit way to go.
Last edited by BigChief; 11-03-15 at 08:59 AM.
11-03-15, 09:53 AM
#8418
Old fart
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11-03-15, 11:40 AM
#8419
Senior Member
More photos of @gugie at work. Note the wild sparks! I thought my tires were gonna melt!
Sparks Fly on R20 Modification by velocivixen, on Flickr
1971 R20 Modification Progress by velocivixen, on Flickr
Grinding Chain Guard Mount by velocivixen, on Flickr
Again, I am really appreciative and happy that @gugie was willing to help me out on this. I'm very happy with the results.
Sparks Fly on R20 Modification by velocivixen, on Flickr1971 R20 Modification Progress by velocivixen, on FlickrGrinding Chain Guard Mount by velocivixen, on FlickrAgain, I am really appreciative and happy that @gugie was willing to help me out on this. I'm very happy with the results.
11-03-15, 11:59 AM
#8420
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
I can see that. One thing I know for sure is that this low carbon steel can be heated and not become hard and brittle. It can also take plenty of cold forging without weakening. I think that if modifying the BB and crank caused clearance problems, forging a flat on the chainsay would be a legit way to go.
11-03-15, 11:59 AM
#8421
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I hope to be joining this club tomorrow! A Raleigh Sport for an actual reasonable price has been spotted on my radar, and IMO is worth the 2.5 hour drive. 3 speeds don't come up too often where I am, and if they do you are looking at somethign way overpriced, or completely roached.
11-03-15, 04:37 PM
#8422
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I hope to be joining this club tomorrow! A Raleigh Sport for an actual reasonable price has been spotted on my radar, and IMO is worth the 2.5 hour drive. 3 speeds don't come up too often where I am, and if they do you are looking at somethign way overpriced, or completely roached.
11-03-15, 04:53 PM
#8423
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11-03-15, 04:56 PM
#8424
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11-03-15, 05:07 PM
#8425
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