Bertin C37
#1
Montedino
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 292
Bikes: Bertin, Ross Mt Hood; Schwinn Circuit
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
20 Posts
Bertin C37
Hi,
Any thoughts on value (and any info in general) in regard to the below Bertin C37 would be much appreciated. I’m going to try to setup time to see it today. Thanks
https://newjersey.craigslist.org/bik/d/sparta-54cm-bertin-c37made-in-belgium/6990063391.html
[img]blob:https://www.bikeforums.net/512b17b0-b74d-425e-a554-a57b110dd7cc
Last edited by Mdl; 11-02-19 at 07:40 AM. Reason: Added pics
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
That bike looks to be in great shape and is a good deal (particularly given bike prices on the east coast) at $225. It looks like all the pieces may not be original (the crank looks to be a Sugino and the wheels are clinchers which is not a bad change). I'd buy it at this price particularly given the condition.
#3
Montedino
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 292
Bikes: Bertin, Ross Mt Hood; Schwinn Circuit
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
20 Posts
That bike looks to be in great shape and is a good deal (particularly given bike prices on the east coast) at $225. It looks like all the pieces may not be original (the crank looks to be a Sugino and the wheels are clinchers which is not a bad change). I'd buy it at this price particularly given the condition.
would you know whether all the tubes are 531 and what it weighs?
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,829 Times
in
1,995 Posts
Bertin made a lot of models- looks worthy of inspection. The C-37 was the top of the production range.
One could drop a few steps and still have Campagnolo ends specified.
study the tubing decal- the cranks are atypical and Huret derailleurs are too.
look for kickstand stay squish
the geometry of the frame looks decent.
the lugs don't look typical for a C37 either.
looks like clincher tires- new from the factory would have been tubulars.
I cannot tell the rim material-
French bikes do present dimension and thread issues- I do not consider them a big problem but more effort.
One could drop a few steps and still have Campagnolo ends specified.
study the tubing decal- the cranks are atypical and Huret derailleurs are too.
look for kickstand stay squish
the geometry of the frame looks decent.
the lugs don't look typical for a C37 either.
looks like clincher tires- new from the factory would have been tubulars.
I cannot tell the rim material-
French bikes do present dimension and thread issues- I do not consider them a big problem but more effort.
#5
Montedino
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 292
Bikes: Bertin, Ross Mt Hood; Schwinn Circuit
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
20 Posts
Bertin made a lot of models- looks worthy of inspection. The C-37 was the top of the production range.
One could drop a few steps and still have Campagnolo ends specified.
study the tubing decal- the cranks are atypical and Huret derailleurs are too.
look for kickstand stay squish
the geometry of the frame looks decent.
the lugs don't look typical for a C37 either.
looks like clincher tires- new from the factory would have been tubulars.
I cannot tell the rim material-
French bikes do present dimension and thread issues- I do not consider them a big problem but more effort.
One could drop a few steps and still have Campagnolo ends specified.
study the tubing decal- the cranks are atypical and Huret derailleurs are too.
look for kickstand stay squish
the geometry of the frame looks decent.
the lugs don't look typical for a C37 either.
looks like clincher tires- new from the factory would have been tubulars.
I cannot tell the rim material-
French bikes do present dimension and thread issues- I do not consider them a big problem but more effort.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
Stickers can disappear. The bike has a half chromed fork and a half chromed rear triangle. That is usually the sign of quality tubing. If the drop outs are forged rather than stamped, then the tubing-whether it is Reynolds or Durifort which Bertin also used--will be good as well.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Bronx, NYC
Posts: 1,885
Bikes: '19 Fuji Gran Fondo 1.5, '72 Peugeot PX10, '71ish Gitane Super Corsa, '78 Fuji Newest, '89 Fuji Ace, '94 Cannondale R600, early '70s LeJeune Pro project
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 293 Post(s)
Liked 218 Times
in
101 Posts
Let us know how this turned out.
#8
Montedino
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 292
Bikes: Bertin, Ross Mt Hood; Schwinn Circuit
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
20 Posts
Stickers can disappear. The bike has a half chromed fork and a half chromed rear triangle. That is usually the sign of quality tubing. If the drop outs are forged rather than stamped, then the tubing-whether it is Reynolds or Durifort which Bertin also used--will be good as well.
I bought it. I love it.
The seller said he’s the original owner. He bought the bike new in ‘73 for $275. He said he knows for sure it’s Reynolds 531. The ride and handling are excellent.
In addition, I love the way it looks. Silver forks, suede Concor SanMarco seat. Very cool. Worth every penny.
Thanks again for the quick responses, Bikemig. I really appreciate it.
Last edited by Mdl; 11-19-20 at 09:52 PM.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
You got a very good deal. I really like buying the bike from the original owner as that means generally that the bike has not been muddied up too much.
You will need to post some pics of the bike. That bike will need a complete overhaul before you ride it. This is a very cool bike.
You will need to post some pics of the bike. That bike will need a complete overhaul before you ride it. This is a very cool bike.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,265
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3811 Post(s)
Liked 3,338 Times
in
2,178 Posts
-----
Will look forward to learning more regarding this mount.
In enlargement of first image the cycle's wheel rims appear to be chrome.
The chainset is slightly puzzling. The left arm is clearly an early Sakae Ringyo Custom with the eagle crest marking. However, the triangular pattern in the outer chainwheel matches a Sugino Maxy and is one SR did not employ on their three arm Custom set. Both firms offered a 106mm BCD three-arm so perhaps Sugino chainwheels have been fitted to an SR arm giving this appearance. Thought perhaps of the possibility that right arm is Sugino Maxy, however both of the red plastic dust covers are Sakae Ringyo.
The drive side pedal looks somewhat junky from what can be seen in the pictures and does not appear to match its NDS partner.
Unfortunately not eno' rez in images to identify frame ends.
The "made in Belgium" description fits right in with the 1973 date. Andy's factory burned down in 1972 and production was moved across the border for a period.
Shall look forward to reading the observations of @bertinjim.
-----
Will look forward to learning more regarding this mount.
In enlargement of first image the cycle's wheel rims appear to be chrome.
The chainset is slightly puzzling. The left arm is clearly an early Sakae Ringyo Custom with the eagle crest marking. However, the triangular pattern in the outer chainwheel matches a Sugino Maxy and is one SR did not employ on their three arm Custom set. Both firms offered a 106mm BCD three-arm so perhaps Sugino chainwheels have been fitted to an SR arm giving this appearance. Thought perhaps of the possibility that right arm is Sugino Maxy, however both of the red plastic dust covers are Sakae Ringyo.
The drive side pedal looks somewhat junky from what can be seen in the pictures and does not appear to match its NDS partner.
Unfortunately not eno' rez in images to identify frame ends.
The "made in Belgium" description fits right in with the 1973 date. Andy's factory burned down in 1972 and production was moved across the border for a period.
Shall look forward to reading the observations of @bertinjim.
-----
Last edited by juvela; 11-03-19 at 12:11 AM. Reason: addition
#11
Montedino
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 292
Bikes: Bertin, Ross Mt Hood; Schwinn Circuit
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
20 Posts
Are the wheels (Weinmann) and spokes stainless? If not can you recommend a product I can apply to prevent rust?
You got a very good deal. I really like buying the bike from the original owner as that means generally that the bike has not been muddied up too much.
You will need to post some pics of the bike. That bike will need a complete overhaul before you ride it. This is a very cool bike.
You will need to post some pics of the bike. That bike will need a complete overhaul before you ride it. This is a very cool bike.
Before yesterday, I knew nothing about French bikes. So, I’m very interested to know your thoughts. Especially in regard to the cranks - I don’t think I’ve seen them before. They’re not Japanese, right?
Last edited by Mdl; 11-03-19 at 08:17 AM. Reason: Correction in re: cranks, obviously “SR” stands for Suntour.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
This bike is beautiful and you got a good deal.
I am not that familiar with Bertins and I did not know that some of their bikes were manufactured in Belgium. @bertinjim knows more about them than I do. One thing about at least some Belgian bikes is that they use British threading not metric. I think this is likely metric.
At this point, rust is not an issue so just keep it clean with a good cleaning and polishing product. There are plenty of good products out there. This is one I've used and like, https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-B...g-goods&sr=1-8
Before riding this bike, it will need a complete overhaul. I would use grade 25 ball bearings. Wheels manufacturing sells good quality bearings (you will need 1/4 inch for the BB and rear wheel, likely 3/16 for the front hub, and headset/pedal bearings vary). Here is a good resource:
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/2255/st...ng-ball-sizes/
You will also need to replace consumables as well (the cables, the chain, tires, and the brake shoes).
The rims likely lack a hook bead so you will need tires with a wire bead and run them around 70-75 psi. If you run them too hard (or get tires without a wire bead), you are likely to blow the tire off the rim. Panaracer makes good tires that look right on vintage bikes.
These kool stop continental brake shoes are very good
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bic...R8ZTVY8219A2SY
In overhauling the bike, I'd strip the bike down first. That will allow you to deal with any missing paint (clear nail polish works or you can look around for a matching paint) and to wax the frame before building it back up. You will want to grease all the fittings (anything threaded plus seatpost, handlebar, and stem, and the rear hub threads for the freewheel). There is a debate over whether to grease the crank arms or not. I don't.
Lucky you. Since you have a Japanese crank, you will not need to track down a special French crank puller.
This is a beautiful bike and quite the score.
I am not that familiar with Bertins and I did not know that some of their bikes were manufactured in Belgium. @bertinjim knows more about them than I do. One thing about at least some Belgian bikes is that they use British threading not metric. I think this is likely metric.
At this point, rust is not an issue so just keep it clean with a good cleaning and polishing product. There are plenty of good products out there. This is one I've used and like, https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-B...g-goods&sr=1-8
Before riding this bike, it will need a complete overhaul. I would use grade 25 ball bearings. Wheels manufacturing sells good quality bearings (you will need 1/4 inch for the BB and rear wheel, likely 3/16 for the front hub, and headset/pedal bearings vary). Here is a good resource:
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/2255/st...ng-ball-sizes/
You will also need to replace consumables as well (the cables, the chain, tires, and the brake shoes).
The rims likely lack a hook bead so you will need tires with a wire bead and run them around 70-75 psi. If you run them too hard (or get tires without a wire bead), you are likely to blow the tire off the rim. Panaracer makes good tires that look right on vintage bikes.
These kool stop continental brake shoes are very good
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bic...R8ZTVY8219A2SY
In overhauling the bike, I'd strip the bike down first. That will allow you to deal with any missing paint (clear nail polish works or you can look around for a matching paint) and to wax the frame before building it back up. You will want to grease all the fittings (anything threaded plus seatpost, handlebar, and stem, and the rear hub threads for the freewheel). There is a debate over whether to grease the crank arms or not. I don't.
Lucky you. Since you have a Japanese crank, you will not need to track down a special French crank puller.
This is a beautiful bike and quite the score.
Last edited by bikemig; 11-03-19 at 08:58 AM.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,265
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3811 Post(s)
Liked 3,338 Times
in
2,178 Posts
-----
Thanks very much for the new photos!
Fine job with them.
Drive side pictures would help readers to give you more information about the bike.
Pedals are Lyotard model Nr. 36. The MILREMO name is a case of private labelling by Bertin.
Spokes appear to be galvanized.
-----
Thanks very much for the new photos!
Fine job with them.
Drive side pictures would help readers to give you more information about the bike.
Pedals are Lyotard model Nr. 36. The MILREMO name is a case of private labelling by Bertin.
Spokes appear to be galvanized.
-----
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
-----
Thanks very much for the new photos!
Fine job with them.
Drive side pictures would help readers to give you more information about the bike.
Pedals are Lyotard model Nr. 36. The MILREMO name is a case of private labelling by Bertin.
Spokes appear to be galvanized.
-----
Thanks very much for the new photos!
Fine job with them.
Drive side pictures would help readers to give you more information about the bike.
Pedals are Lyotard model Nr. 36. The MILREMO name is a case of private labelling by Bertin.
Spokes appear to be galvanized.
-----
#15
Montedino
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 292
Bikes: Bertin, Ross Mt Hood; Schwinn Circuit
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Liked 27 Times
in
20 Posts
This bike is beautiful and you got a good deal.
I am not that familiar with Bertins and I did not know that some of their bikes were manufactured in Belgium. @bertinjim knows more about them than I do. One thing about at least some Belgian bikes is that they use British threading not metric. I think this is likely metric.
At this point, rust is not an issue so just keep it clean with a good cleaning and polishing product. There are plenty of good products out there. This is one I've used and like, https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-B...g-goods&sr=1-8
Before riding this bike, it will need a complete overhaul. I would use grade 25 ball bearings. Wheels manufacturing sells good quality bearings (you will need 1/4 inch for the BB and rear wheel, likely 3/16 for the front hub, and headset/pedal bearings vary). Here is a good resource:
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/2255/st...ng-ball-sizes/
You will also need to replace consumables as well (the cables, the chain, tires, and the brake shoes).
The rims likely lack a hook bead so you will need tires with a wire bead and run them around 70-75 psi. If you run them too hard (or get tires without a wire bead), you are likely to blow the tire off the rim. Panaracer makes good tires that look right on vintage bikes.
These kool stop continental brake shoes are very good
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bic...R8ZTVY8219A2SY
In overhauling the bike, I'd strip the bike down first. That will allow you to deal with any missing paint (clear nail polish works or you can look around for a matching paint) and to wax the frame before building it back up. You will want to grease all the fittings (anything threaded plus seatpost, handlebar, and stem, and the rear hub threads for the freewheel). There is a debate over whether to grease the crank arms or not. I don't.
Lucky you. Since you have a Japanese crank, you will not need to track down a special French crank puller.
This is a beautiful bike and quite the score.
I am not that familiar with Bertins and I did not know that some of their bikes were manufactured in Belgium. @bertinjim knows more about them than I do. One thing about at least some Belgian bikes is that they use British threading not metric. I think this is likely metric.
At this point, rust is not an issue so just keep it clean with a good cleaning and polishing product. There are plenty of good products out there. This is one I've used and like, https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-B...g-goods&sr=1-8
Before riding this bike, it will need a complete overhaul. I would use grade 25 ball bearings. Wheels manufacturing sells good quality bearings (you will need 1/4 inch for the BB and rear wheel, likely 3/16 for the front hub, and headset/pedal bearings vary). Here is a good resource:
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/2255/st...ng-ball-sizes/
You will also need to replace consumables as well (the cables, the chain, tires, and the brake shoes).
The rims likely lack a hook bead so you will need tires with a wire bead and run them around 70-75 psi. If you run them too hard (or get tires without a wire bead), you are likely to blow the tire off the rim. Panaracer makes good tires that look right on vintage bikes.
These kool stop continental brake shoes are very good
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bic...R8ZTVY8219A2SY
In overhauling the bike, I'd strip the bike down first. That will allow you to deal with any missing paint (clear nail polish works or you can look around for a matching paint) and to wax the frame before building it back up. You will want to grease all the fittings (anything threaded plus seatpost, handlebar, and stem, and the rear hub threads for the freewheel). There is a debate over whether to grease the crank arms or not. I don't.
Lucky you. Since you have a Japanese crank, you will not need to track down a special French crank puller.
This is a beautiful bike and quite the score.
Two things. The front derailer is sticking now and the cable now has slack in it. I tightened it and ride it, tried to shift but it’s still stuck and slacked out again.
In addition, while I was taking pictures, the wind blew it over an now the brake lever is scratched! Lol. I have to laugh or else cry right? Any tricks on smoothing out the scratch? Light sandpaper, for example?
Oh and here are some drivetrain pics.
Thanks!
Mike
Last edited by Mdl; 10-27-20 at 05:33 AM.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Niagara Region, Canada
Posts: 1,455
Bikes: 1970s Alex Singer, 1960s Peugeot PX 10, 1960s Bertin C37, 1973 Carre Bertin C 37, 1972 Carlton Kermesse, 1981 Peugeot PX 14 Super Competition
Mentioned: 65 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 346 Post(s)
Liked 266 Times
in
157 Posts
Mdl-
Your Belgian Bertin may be an equivalent model of the C 37 but C 37s in 1972-73 were made by Bernard Carre due to the old Bertin factory having been burnt down. They were decaled in French style transfers whereas your bike is Belgian in graphic style. It is quite possibly built with Reynolds "A" hi-tensile tubing which was often used by the Belgian factory, usually in a double butted version. The made up into quite a light frameset, usually within a pound of an equal sized full 531 frameset. When you tear down the bike to re-lube the bearings, look down the steerer tube to check for a seam. Do the same on the seat tube and the chainstays where they enter the BB shell. If seamed, then likely "A", if seamless then likely 531 as the seller mentioned.
The components look OEM except for the seat and wheels (likely tubulars originally) but SR Silstar and Sugino Maxy in a swaged 3 arm configuration were often used by Cycles Bertin Belgium as the OEM crankset.
EDIT: Mdl, your rear derailleur attachment claw is missing the retention bolt that holds it to the dropout. It is retained only by just the quick release and may move under pedal pressure . Please check.
The bike is in outstandingly good cosmetic condition and congratulations on the purchase!
Further info:
https://bertinclassiccycles.wordpres...lgian-bertins/
https://bertinclassiccycles.wordpress.com/tag/reynolds/
Your Belgian Bertin may be an equivalent model of the C 37 but C 37s in 1972-73 were made by Bernard Carre due to the old Bertin factory having been burnt down. They were decaled in French style transfers whereas your bike is Belgian in graphic style. It is quite possibly built with Reynolds "A" hi-tensile tubing which was often used by the Belgian factory, usually in a double butted version. The made up into quite a light frameset, usually within a pound of an equal sized full 531 frameset. When you tear down the bike to re-lube the bearings, look down the steerer tube to check for a seam. Do the same on the seat tube and the chainstays where they enter the BB shell. If seamed, then likely "A", if seamless then likely 531 as the seller mentioned.
The components look OEM except for the seat and wheels (likely tubulars originally) but SR Silstar and Sugino Maxy in a swaged 3 arm configuration were often used by Cycles Bertin Belgium as the OEM crankset.
EDIT: Mdl, your rear derailleur attachment claw is missing the retention bolt that holds it to the dropout. It is retained only by just the quick release and may move under pedal pressure . Please check.
The bike is in outstandingly good cosmetic condition and congratulations on the purchase!
Further info:
https://bertinclassiccycles.wordpres...lgian-bertins/
https://bertinclassiccycles.wordpress.com/tag/reynolds/
Last edited by bertinjim; 11-03-19 at 01:39 PM. Reason: update
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,265
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3811 Post(s)
Liked 3,338 Times
in
2,178 Posts
-----
Thanks so much for all of this great information Jim!
---
Mdl -
missing bolt on hanger for rear mech may have been done intentionally so as to permit hub axle to move all the way to the rear of the axle slot
---
sticky front mech -
this is Huret model 700 Luxe which launched 1966
when left idle for a period this linkage can stiffen up, usually only lubrication is needed
you may be able to free things up by loosening the pivot screws a bit and working some spray lubricant into the mechanism
if this does not do it it may be necessary to disassemble the mech for cleaning and lubrication; nothing will be worn out or broken
another possible cause for this symptom could be the gear cable corroding inside the cable casing
---
two notes on chainset -
a) these early Sakae Ringyo sets with the swaged outer often come with thick chainwheel spacers to permit a rider to run the small/small gear combination without the chain rubbing on the inner face of the outer chainwheel
this leaves them vulnerable to derailments of the chain between chainwheels when shifting from large to small; avoid using a narrow drive chain in order to minimize this risk
b) also on these early sets with the swaged outer the taper for the mating of crank arm to spindle is often three degree rather than the industry standard two degree
if set is two degree the spindle will likely be marked 68S, 3S, 3SS or 3T
if set is three degree spindle will be marked something like 3S3 or 3K
dropouts -
Jim mentioned Bernard C.
found it interesting to note that these are the same model as employed on many Sauvage - Lejeune and Lejeune frames
have never known their name/maker; perhaps another reader will know...
-----
Thanks so much for all of this great information Jim!
---
Mdl -
missing bolt on hanger for rear mech may have been done intentionally so as to permit hub axle to move all the way to the rear of the axle slot
---
sticky front mech -
this is Huret model 700 Luxe which launched 1966
when left idle for a period this linkage can stiffen up, usually only lubrication is needed
you may be able to free things up by loosening the pivot screws a bit and working some spray lubricant into the mechanism
if this does not do it it may be necessary to disassemble the mech for cleaning and lubrication; nothing will be worn out or broken
another possible cause for this symptom could be the gear cable corroding inside the cable casing
---
two notes on chainset -
a) these early Sakae Ringyo sets with the swaged outer often come with thick chainwheel spacers to permit a rider to run the small/small gear combination without the chain rubbing on the inner face of the outer chainwheel
this leaves them vulnerable to derailments of the chain between chainwheels when shifting from large to small; avoid using a narrow drive chain in order to minimize this risk
b) also on these early sets with the swaged outer the taper for the mating of crank arm to spindle is often three degree rather than the industry standard two degree
if set is two degree the spindle will likely be marked 68S, 3S, 3SS or 3T
if set is three degree spindle will be marked something like 3S3 or 3K
dropouts -
Jim mentioned Bernard C.
found it interesting to note that these are the same model as employed on many Sauvage - Lejeune and Lejeune frames
have never known their name/maker; perhaps another reader will know...
-----
Last edited by juvela; 11-03-19 at 06:19 PM. Reason: spelln'
#18
Friendship is Magic
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,984
Bikes: old ones
Mentioned: 304 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26418 Post(s)
Liked 10,380 Times
in
7,208 Posts