700x35 from 700x45
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700x35 from 700x45
Hi eveyone,
This is the first year I've exclusively commuted to work via cycling since the middle of March. I'm considering continuing my commute through the winter and wondered what size range I can work with when changing from my original 700x45 tires that came on my bike. I want to replace them with a winter studded tire. From other forum threads I've read, Schwalbe seems to be a highly recommended brand. I've found a tire I think I'd like, but the closest size I've been able to find compared to my original 700x45 is a studded 700x35. The bike is a Specialized Crossroads. Is 10mm narrower too much of a change on the rim, and what can I expect with performance?
I've considered that narrower is a less desirable direction to go for snow conditions, but since the size is manufactured, it must be effective to a point, correct? My commute is 3 miles each direction with about 1 mile of MUP that is not maintained in the winter. I expect to walk that section on snowier days. The rest of the commute is city streets in a small town where I can avoid excessive traffic by the routes I take.
This is the first year I've exclusively commuted to work via cycling since the middle of March. I'm considering continuing my commute through the winter and wondered what size range I can work with when changing from my original 700x45 tires that came on my bike. I want to replace them with a winter studded tire. From other forum threads I've read, Schwalbe seems to be a highly recommended brand. I've found a tire I think I'd like, but the closest size I've been able to find compared to my original 700x45 is a studded 700x35. The bike is a Specialized Crossroads. Is 10mm narrower too much of a change on the rim, and what can I expect with performance?
I've considered that narrower is a less desirable direction to go for snow conditions, but since the size is manufactured, it must be effective to a point, correct? My commute is 3 miles each direction with about 1 mile of MUP that is not maintained in the winter. I expect to walk that section on snowier days. The rest of the commute is city streets in a small town where I can avoid excessive traffic by the routes I take.
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I don't have a lot of experience riding in the snow but bought some Marathon Winter (700x35) tires a couple of years ago. They work well on ice or packed snow but not really feasible for fresh snow. Below is a picture of my first ride where I went through some virgin snow for a short stretch. Riding on that section took 300+W to go 10kph (6mph). Fun but not sustainable for long.
4-6" of virgin powder
35mm Schwalbe Marathon Winter Performance tire
4-6" of virgin powder
35mm Schwalbe Marathon Winter Performance tire
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deep snow on a hard surface, I prefer skinny.
Actually even on packed snow I'd prefer skinny.
Off road is a different story. Snow also has so many variables. fluffy? wet? fresh? days old frozen crusty stuff? fresh tracks? all tracked up?
bottom line you'll be fine on the 35's, other than giving up some of the plush cush of the bigger tire.
Actually even on packed snow I'd prefer skinny.
Off road is a different story. Snow also has so many variables. fluffy? wet? fresh? days old frozen crusty stuff? fresh tracks? all tracked up?
bottom line you'll be fine on the 35's, other than giving up some of the plush cush of the bigger tire.
#4
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700x35 will be fine on hard packed snow and ice. If you want to float on top of fresh and/or deep snow, you pretty much need a fat bike.
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I commute ~9miles each way on pavement. My studded winter tires are 26x1.65 which is about 42mm. My rims are 1.5 inches which is about 38mm. Skinnier tires hill help your bike cut through the snow down to the pavement, or ice, as the case may be. I am good up to 3" of loose snow. Above that, my speed is too slow to make riding to work practical.
For me, the real "a-ha" moment came when I realized (thanks to bikeforums) that tire pressure was important.
I run Suomi Nokian W106's and max pressure of 65psi is good for dry pavement. 30-45psi seems to work better for icy streets. And 20-25psi for deep loose snow. But on packed snow, ~32-35psi works well for me.
FWIW, I remember watching WRC rally driving and all the teams's studded snow tires were thin. A team tech explained they wanted the cars to cut through the snow, not float on it.
For me, the real "a-ha" moment came when I realized (thanks to bikeforums) that tire pressure was important.
I run Suomi Nokian W106's and max pressure of 65psi is good for dry pavement. 30-45psi seems to work better for icy streets. And 20-25psi for deep loose snow. But on packed snow, ~32-35psi works well for me.
FWIW, I remember watching WRC rally driving and all the teams's studded snow tires were thin. A team tech explained they wanted the cars to cut through the snow, not float on it.
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Thanks for the replies. As far as width, will I be able to fit a 700x35 to a rim that came with a 700x45 on it?
#7
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Other thing...how much traction sand does Your Fair City throw down? Fine fraction sand can foul the studs, ruining their grip on ice....which is a reason to go bigger (more studs walk back those losses).
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Of course. Be warned the Schwalbes are wire-bead and you will probably bruise your knuckles getting them on/off. Also, they're heavy--800gram or so each.
Other thing...how much traction sand does Your Fair City throw down? Fine fraction sand can foul the studs, ruining their grip on ice....which is a reason to go bigger (more studs walk back those losses).
Other thing...how much traction sand does Your Fair City throw down? Fine fraction sand can foul the studs, ruining their grip on ice....which is a reason to go bigger (more studs walk back those losses).
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45 rear 35 front @ 45psi was working best for me. I found that winter riding wasn't for me, so it was shortlived.
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