TejanoTrackie 

Yes, I was very pleasantly surprised. I wasn't really trying to make it very light, and was just hoping it would come in under 20 lbs. Granted, its a 49cm frame, which is going to be lighter than a larger size, but still it's somewhat impressive.

EpicSchwinn

Nice job TT!! I envy your smaller frame size. I've been shaving weight all over the place and am barely under 18 lbs.

chantymac

Does anyone happen to know what kind of bar tape this is?

Speed2XS

Thats a fine question Mr McliverRot,

It was an definitely upgrade from the twisted pile of metal that was his Kilo, post impact...

I don't have a lot of experience with the Kilo TT, but when I had worked on his bike before I wasn't particularly impressed.

I have built several Pake's in the past however, and they have been very easy to assemble. The seat tubes seemed well prepped, very little facing was ever needed, and the threads seemed clean. I never noticed the frames not being well aligned. I think they have a bad rap from people who just want to hate something, but I think they're great bikes for the price... But obviously that's just my opinion.

NateRod

pink is random NOS 80's tape found on ebay. Purple is f.u.b.a.r. brand.

BP88

I love my Pake - it came already chased and faced from the factory. Not to mention Tange tubing.

Scrodzilla

Hell yeah TT - that looks great! Maybe throw a bright silver Aerohead on the front?

Nice placement of the 'OLR' sticker too.

TMonk

yeah a silver-rimmed front wheel of equal or lesser depth would set it off.

In an ideal world I would say drop the spacers too, but I know that frame's geo isn't necessarily perfect and function > form.

I have long ass femurs and a short torso so I need race bikes with headtubes on the taller side myself.

ddeadserious

I usually hate loud colors on bikes, but the bright green and the purple work really well together. Very nice bike, I take it you sold it?

Looks super nice. Did you go all weight weenie on it or did it just end up that weight?

NateRod

Thanks. Yeah, I sold it a couple of months ago. I kind of miss it.

jpaschall

The black and yellow Pake was one of my favorite bikes on the forums. It will be missed.

ddeadserious

Fortunately, the new Paramount is pretty excellent too.

TejanoTrackie 

Thanks, Scrod. Yeah, I was thinking the same for the front wheel, but decided to use the road wheel for the time being. I removed the tacky Velomax stickers with all the red in them, and I think the rim looks a lot better now.

EpicSchwinn

Looks a lot better with those stickers off. One of these days you should give us a pic with a plain background and your bike on level ground

TejanoTrackie 

The weather is miserable today, overcast 40s and rain, and unfortunately predicted to get worse over the next few days with ice / snow on Monday. Can't wait for it to at least be dry and sunny, even if it's cold so I can check it out on the road and take some decent pics. I'm sure the bars are going to come down a bit, once I get my position fine tuned.

EpicSchwinn

edit: <---poor listener started to answer the wrong question.

TheRealFaux

My frame came today!

EpicSchwinn

YAY!!! What's your timeline?

TheRealFaux

I still need a fork and crankset to get rolling. Hopefully riding by month's end

TejanoTrackie 

Finally got some road miles on it today, after days of cold rain and bitter cold yesterday. It's a sweet responsive ride and
climbs nicely out of the saddle. There's a bit of toe overlap, but nothing excessive, and it's easy to maneuver in tight places. I lowered the saddle 1/4 inch and like the bars where they are now, so I don't plan to change them. The Flite saddle was comfortable enough for my 1/2 hour ride wearing sweat pants over briefs, so I imagine it will be fine for longer rides with padded chamois bib shorts and leg warmers.

Rode it yesterday on the rollers, and determined that the chainline was off with the cog in its normal position. The chain was crunching and popping, and the bike was not tracking straight when I readjusted the wheel. Solved the problem by shifting the hub 2mm to the drive side by moving an axle spacer and redishing the wheel. Now it's smooth as butter and tracks perfectly, but I can no longer flip the wheel to use a different cog on the other side.

EpicSchwinn

Good to hear you're liking it for the most part. Is there some way you could address the chainline issue at the crank so your wheel would be good on either side? Are chainline issues easier to spot on the rollers or was that just because that was your first time riding it? I'm hopefully getting rollers for Christmas but I think my chainline is pretty much dead on.

Stealthammer

My Pake FG/SS in street trim with the spoked flippable wheels, water bottle and drop bars. I also have a set of bullhorn bars with a bit shorter stem and I am working on a second set of aero wheels that will be FG only.

TejanoTrackie 

It can't be fixed at the crank, because the crank would have to move inward 2mm. If it were the other way, I could shim the BB. Chainline issues manifest themselves whether you ride on the road or on rollers, however, bad wheel alignment in the frame is a lot more obvious on rollers, since the bike crabs and is unstable. There's also a lot of drag, since the rear tire is not aligned with the roller drums. I think the problem is a combination of the IRO (Formula) hub and the Soma cog, since I tried one of my Cane Creek racing wheels with a Dura Ace cog, and it worked fine. If your drivetrain runs smoothly, then you don't have chainline problems. I had a similar problem with my Kilo WT, which also has a Formula hub and Soma cog. I also had to shift and redish that wheel, but since the other side was threaded for a freewheel that I'll never use, I didn't care. Anyway, it's no big deal changing cogs, especially now that I've got some Scrod-approved lockring pliers.

Scrodzilla

Seriously, how good are those lockring pliers? Sometimes I feel like taking my lockrings off and reinstalling them just for the sheer hell of it.

ddeadserious

This reminds me of this: