Should I swap bikes?
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Should I swap bikes?
Hello. I have a 2016 Cannondale CAAD 12 105. I purchased the bike recently with only about 200 miles on it. It is a 56cm and I am 5'8" so would prefer a 54cm. I found someone who has the same bike inain a 54 we were talking of swapping bikes . Sounds like he has this bike since 2016 and rides alot so it has way more miles than mine. Is the swap worth it in terms of a better size vs more mileage on the bike? If the bike was kept up well does the mileage on it matter?
#2
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0 chance anyone on a message board can tell you since we don't know the actual condition of the bike you want.
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#4
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swap it!
I agree with Flip Flop Rider. Fit is nearly everything. Everything except the frame can easily be replaced or upgraded.
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So someone with a 4 year old well used Cannondale wants to trade for your basically new Cannondale?
John
John
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swap^^^^ the heart has its reasons that reason cannot know
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#7
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Hard to answer without seeing the bike. The fit is a huge deal, but if the bike you trade for has worn out components, needs a lot of work, not such a good deal. Even if the bike is in good shape, I think I would need a bit of a sweetener of some kind to make that trade. I have a couple of bikes that are a bit too big for me, but with a shorter stem and the saddle positioned right, they are both very comfortable to ride, including long rides/time in the saddle. One of them I have had since I bought it new in 1992. In the end, it is your call.
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Depends. Did the guy ride it hard and put it away wet, or was he like some and lubed the chain every other ride, regularly replaced chains and cassettes, generally maintained it?
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Swap frames, keep your own newer components.
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Thanks all. I guess I just need to see the other bike. I wouldn't swap for a bike in worse condition. I did shorten the stem on mine and don't hate ti by any means. Thanks for all the input.
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Have you ever ridden a 54cm?
What is difference in the top tube length between the two?
What don’t you like about the 56cm or is it just the fit police convincing you to make a change?
If I couldn’t swap components, there is not a chance I would trade.
The funniest thing about this... the guy with the 54cm doesn’t seem to have a fit issue going smaller. Why would he? He just got 4 years of riding pretty much free and will just swap the stem.
John
What is difference in the top tube length between the two?
What don’t you like about the 56cm or is it just the fit police convincing you to make a change?
If I couldn’t swap components, there is not a chance I would trade.
The funniest thing about this... the guy with the 54cm doesn’t seem to have a fit issue going smaller. Why would he? He just got 4 years of riding pretty much free and will just swap the stem.
John
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Think of it this way. You just paid full manufacturer's retail for your bike. If you sell it in four years, you will get maybe a quarter of that. So in effect he is getting your bike---a brand new bike--for one quarter of what you just paid.
No wonder he is eager to do the deal.
You would be Much better off selling the new bike for a few hundred less than you paid and buying a new one in the right size.MUCH smarter move, IMO.
Either lose a couple hundred and still have a brand-new bike in exactly the right size ... or spend full MSRP on a brand new bike and get a breaking-down, wearing out four-year-old bike.
This is a the second-best solution.
Look, if the guy rode 3,000 miles per year---not unreasonable by any means---his cassette would be ready for replacement ($50-$90 maybe), and every other part of the bike would be worn. The chain rings might be ready for replacement, and has he changed brake shoes? How hard has he ridden it? How are the wheel bearings? Has he kept the running gear clean? Are the idler pulleys worn?
How about the shifters? They should last a lot longer than four years, but they do wear---and they are expensive to replace.
On the other hand, your stuff is brand new. Price a new group set at the level on your bike, versus a four-year-old one. $800 versus $200?
However .... if you guys strip both frames, then both of you get to keep the parts, and the associated benefits and drawbacks, so no one really loses. At most, you might have to replace the headset bearings. Otherwise, unless the guy crashed a lot, the frames will be in the same shape.
Offer him that deal. Tell him you want to swap just the frames.
I can guarantee you, if you swap bikes and this time next year you are dumping a lot of money into the bike, he won't be too sympathetic, as he bombs around on his still nearly brand-new bike he got for a real steal.
No wonder he is eager to do the deal.
You would be Much better off selling the new bike for a few hundred less than you paid and buying a new one in the right size.MUCH smarter move, IMO.
Either lose a couple hundred and still have a brand-new bike in exactly the right size ... or spend full MSRP on a brand new bike and get a breaking-down, wearing out four-year-old bike.
This is a the second-best solution.
Look, if the guy rode 3,000 miles per year---not unreasonable by any means---his cassette would be ready for replacement ($50-$90 maybe), and every other part of the bike would be worn. The chain rings might be ready for replacement, and has he changed brake shoes? How hard has he ridden it? How are the wheel bearings? Has he kept the running gear clean? Are the idler pulleys worn?
How about the shifters? They should last a lot longer than four years, but they do wear---and they are expensive to replace.
On the other hand, your stuff is brand new. Price a new group set at the level on your bike, versus a four-year-old one. $800 versus $200?
However .... if you guys strip both frames, then both of you get to keep the parts, and the associated benefits and drawbacks, so no one really loses. At most, you might have to replace the headset bearings. Otherwise, unless the guy crashed a lot, the frames will be in the same shape.
Offer him that deal. Tell him you want to swap just the frames.
I can guarantee you, if you swap bikes and this time next year you are dumping a lot of money into the bike, he won't be too sympathetic, as he bombs around on his still nearly brand-new bike he got for a real steal.
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SWAP. To even things out, get together with the two bikes and inspect them. Agree to exchange components to share the degree of wear. For example, move the less worn wheels and cassette onto the 54cm. Then you can buy a new chain and new brake blocks to recondition the 54cm. While you're at it, replace all of the cables and housing, plus bar tape. Done. You're welcome.
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Just to add.. the other guy does not know my bike has been ridden much less.. we have only agreed to meet and inspect bikes. I honestly am not an expert at bike fit. I purchased my bike from someone much taller than me and this guy is much taller. Although not a bike expert I do know not to simply swap something new for something old. All I do know is my bike feels a bit big. Seems logical that having a bike where I don't have to shorten th stem and push my saddle so forward might make sense. I'll meet the guy, inspect the bike and take it for a test ride. If not a good deal I'll go my separate way. Appreciate ball the input so far .
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#16
aka Phil Jungels
We are talkng 2 cm here, less than 3/4 of an inch! A few minor changes or adjustments, and your new bike is the same size! What's left to figure out!
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You'll be better off on a bike that fits, but don't get ripped off.
A 2016 model with "a lot" of miles on it is unlikely to have the same value as one with just a few hundred miles on it. There are many items that could be worn out, including hub bearings, bottom bracket, headset bearings, chain, cassette, brake pads, bar tape, tires, etc. If your bike only has 200 miles on it, this stuff is all basically brand new.
I would recommend taking the bike into a shop to have them give it a quick assessment.
A 2016 model with "a lot" of miles on it is unlikely to have the same value as one with just a few hundred miles on it. There are many items that could be worn out, including hub bearings, bottom bracket, headset bearings, chain, cassette, brake pads, bar tape, tires, etc. If your bike only has 200 miles on it, this stuff is all basically brand new.
I would recommend taking the bike into a shop to have them give it a quick assessment.
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FWIW....I have a 2019 CAAD 12 w/105. It's labeled a 52 but actual frame measurement is a 54. I am down to 5'8-5'9" and my inseam is 32.5". My bike fits perfectly. And, that frame size has worked for me for 40 yrs. Make sure a bike fits you.
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#21
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Having reread the thread, I hold to my original position.
OP needs to sell his bike and buy one that fits. Every mile he puts on the 56-cm frame drops its value, so he needs to go to the bike store, test a 54, and itf it fits, buy it, then sell the 56. (reverse the order if cash flow is an issue.)
Trading a brand new bike for a hard-ridden four-year-old bike is ridiculous. Imagine if I tried to swap my four-year-old car with 60K miles on it for your just-drove-off-the-lot model ... you wouldn't even laugh, it would be too stupid a proposition to be funny.
As for the size---two cm is a lot and more so one a smaller frame, because proportionally the difference is bigger. Related issues are everything from toe overlap to the overall proportion---some frames get proportionally longer in the headtube at a higher rate as the top-tube dimension increases, so the stack and reach will both change .... and so will the overall balance of the bike.
I have a tiny frame with over a foot of exposed seatpost and a stem as long as my thigh---I acquired it under circumstances to o complicated to bother explaining here, but sure .... a person who normally rides a 56 can ride a 52. I have also ridden a 58, and my old Cannondale is gigantic---I run like a 50-mm stem because I can no longer ride that stretched out and laid down. But if I am going to lay out serious money for a new bike, I am for sure not going to Start with a compromise.
OP brought the wrong size frame, and his/her best bet would be to own up to it, and replace it. A couple hundred dollars lost now will mean nothing over the next ten years of rising the optimally sized frame. Well worth it---put it down to money spent on education.
Swapping a new bike for a beat-up four-year-old bike makes exactly as much sense as it seems as first glance---it is nonsensical.
All opinions expressed are those of the author .... and yes, though i might state things with an air of certainty, they are just opinions. Relax, and move on if you don't like what i write.
OP needs to sell his bike and buy one that fits. Every mile he puts on the 56-cm frame drops its value, so he needs to go to the bike store, test a 54, and itf it fits, buy it, then sell the 56. (reverse the order if cash flow is an issue.)
Trading a brand new bike for a hard-ridden four-year-old bike is ridiculous. Imagine if I tried to swap my four-year-old car with 60K miles on it for your just-drove-off-the-lot model ... you wouldn't even laugh, it would be too stupid a proposition to be funny.
As for the size---two cm is a lot and more so one a smaller frame, because proportionally the difference is bigger. Related issues are everything from toe overlap to the overall proportion---some frames get proportionally longer in the headtube at a higher rate as the top-tube dimension increases, so the stack and reach will both change .... and so will the overall balance of the bike.
I have a tiny frame with over a foot of exposed seatpost and a stem as long as my thigh---I acquired it under circumstances to o complicated to bother explaining here, but sure .... a person who normally rides a 56 can ride a 52. I have also ridden a 58, and my old Cannondale is gigantic---I run like a 50-mm stem because I can no longer ride that stretched out and laid down. But if I am going to lay out serious money for a new bike, I am for sure not going to Start with a compromise.
OP brought the wrong size frame, and his/her best bet would be to own up to it, and replace it. A couple hundred dollars lost now will mean nothing over the next ten years of rising the optimally sized frame. Well worth it---put it down to money spent on education.
Swapping a new bike for a beat-up four-year-old bike makes exactly as much sense as it seems as first glance---it is nonsensical.
All opinions expressed are those of the author .... and yes, though i might state things with an air of certainty, they are just opinions. Relax, and move on if you don't like what i write.
#23
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get someone who knows bikes to look at it with you before trading
comments about the bike being "beat up" or "road hard" for 4 years are just speculation. Maybe it is or was, but an experienced biker could look it over and tell
after 4 years of "hard riding", the chain and cassette would have been changed, as well as other modifications to pedals, saddle, etc.
get an estimate of how many miles the bike has been ridden
lastly. in 4 years you have ridden your bike 200 miles, so in my opinion (and it's just that), you could trade for any bike that fits you and that you will ride. Don't get hung up on absolute equal value. Right now you have a bike that you do not ride. I can guarantee you that if you decide to sell your bike, you will not have enough to buy a new one. Cannondale caad 12 is a premium bike whether it's been ridden or not
either way get something that you will ride....or just sell it and move on to another hobby
comments about the bike being "beat up" or "road hard" for 4 years are just speculation. Maybe it is or was, but an experienced biker could look it over and tell
after 4 years of "hard riding", the chain and cassette would have been changed, as well as other modifications to pedals, saddle, etc.
get an estimate of how many miles the bike has been ridden
lastly. in 4 years you have ridden your bike 200 miles, so in my opinion (and it's just that), you could trade for any bike that fits you and that you will ride. Don't get hung up on absolute equal value. Right now you have a bike that you do not ride. I can guarantee you that if you decide to sell your bike, you will not have enough to buy a new one. Cannondale caad 12 is a premium bike whether it's been ridden or not
either way get something that you will ride....or just sell it and move on to another hobby
#24
Banned
Bring 2 , swap the dirty one for a clean one in the pits, where your crew cleans them and gets it ready for the next swap..
as you run by drop off one and get the clean bike..
It's been how people won muddy Cyclocross races for decades
as you run by drop off one and get the clean bike..
It's been how people won muddy Cyclocross races for decades
#25
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So I checked out the 2016 caad12 geometry.
The top tube is 1.4cm (.55”) longer on the 56.
The seat tube is 1.5cm (.60”) longer.
the stand over is 1.6cm (.62”) higher.
I ride a 56cm, should have a 54cm or less, but it just worked out that way. I “was” 5’ 83/4” but I am probably closer to your height now.
If stand over is not an issue, you can probably get it setup pretty close to the 54. But 54 may not be right for you.
Some people ride larger or smaller sizes than recommended. It is whatever is comfortable or personal preference. And torso length plays a big part.
The truth is that you might not like any size caad12 and might be better off moving on to something else.
John
The top tube is 1.4cm (.55”) longer on the 56.
The seat tube is 1.5cm (.60”) longer.
the stand over is 1.6cm (.62”) higher.
I ride a 56cm, should have a 54cm or less, but it just worked out that way. I “was” 5’ 83/4” but I am probably closer to your height now.
If stand over is not an issue, you can probably get it setup pretty close to the 54. But 54 may not be right for you.
Some people ride larger or smaller sizes than recommended. It is whatever is comfortable or personal preference. And torso length plays a big part.
The truth is that you might not like any size caad12 and might be better off moving on to something else.
John