Big chainring junkie....
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Big chainring junkie....
I have been looking into a new gravel/road bike (Diverege Expert) with a 1x group, seem simple and convenient and a small weight savings over a 2x. While a 1x with a 11 speed cassette can cover the largest and smallest gears I use now, I just cant shake the thought of not turning a 48 or 50 chainring. I typically ride out against the wind and turn home for a nice push. There is just something about the big ring and pushing a big gear compared to small ring and trying to spin it at higher rpms. Anyone else have this concern with a 1x? Seems most are concerned with not having a small enough gear to climb.....while I am concerned with not having the option to turn a big ring. Today on crushed limestone, I could get in the big ring with the same perceived effort as my small front ring and go 1 to 2 mph faster. Anyone made the switch to a 1x and have regrets?
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If you are spinning at 90rpm in your 50/11 combo for many minites on end, then yup a 1x with a smaller chainring may not be for you.
Here is the kicker though- that bike you mention comes with a 46t ring and a 10-42t cassette.
Pedal a 46/10 combo at 90rpm with the stock tire size abd you will go FASTER than if you pedal a 50/11 combo at 90rpm with the stock tire size.
33.26mph vs 32.90mph.
W H A T?!?!
Also, look into competitive racing if you can keep 50/11 gearing at 90rpm or more on gravel for many minutes on end, even with a tailwind. Races shall be won.
Here is the kicker though- that bike you mention comes with a 46t ring and a 10-42t cassette.
Pedal a 46/10 combo at 90rpm with the stock tire size abd you will go FASTER than if you pedal a 50/11 combo at 90rpm with the stock tire size.
33.26mph vs 32.90mph.
W H A T?!?!
Also, look into competitive racing if you can keep 50/11 gearing at 90rpm or more on gravel for many minutes on end, even with a tailwind. Races shall be won.
Last edited by mstateglfr; 08-12-17 at 09:06 PM.
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I just re checked Specialized webpage......it shows the Expert with a 42t X-Sync chain ring with a 11 speed 10-42t cassette. Turning a 42t ring has to feel like a lot of spinning compared to a 50 or even a 46. I don't plan on turning a 50/11 gear much at all, more the chance to turn a bigger gear at less rpm's than spinning at 90 rpm. Does that make sense?
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I just re checked Specialized webpage......it shows the Expert with a 42t X-Sync chain ring with a 11 speed 10-42t cassette. Turning a 42t ring has to feel like a lot of spinning compared to a 50 or even a 46. I don't plan on turning a 50/11 gear much at all, more the chance to turn a bigger gear at less rpm's than spinning at 90 rpm. Does that make sense?
Is this not the bike? This diverge expert 1x has a 46t chainring.
As for turning a bigger gear slowly...no, that doesnt make sense.
You want a large chainring, but dont need a large chainring? I mean, cool each of us cycles in our own way to make us happy, but slowly mashing a large chainring doesnt make sense to me.
If you slowly turn a 50/11 setup at 50rpm, ypu will go 18.28mph.
If you slowly turn the 46/10 setup on the linked specialized bike, you will go 18.48mph.
If you slowly turn the 42/10 setup you see somewhere, you will go 16.87mph. Not fast enough for you compared to ypur current mashing 50/11 at 50rpm, sure. So pedal at 5 more rpm and you will go 18.56mph which is now faster than the 50/11 big gearing you like.
So...
- the bike you are interested in, at least what i think you are interested in and linked in this post, actually has a bigger effective gear than what you currently use and your fear is unfounded
-or-
- the bike has a 42t chainring and if you make just 5 more rotations of the crank more per minute than you currently do(whatever your actual rpm is), then you will ride faster than you currently do.)
Seems to be a small issue(or none at all) due to that 10t cassette cog.
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42/10 combo is about 100 gear inches while the 50/11 combo is almost 120 gear inches so there is a significant difference.
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When looked at in cadence, at the stock tire width its just 5 turns per minute difference....and thats at a low cadence so 5 more is quite doable. Its not like the cadence is already high.
But in the end, all this is moot when discussing the linked bike which is what the OP appears to be interested in since that has a SRAM Force 46t chainring.
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If you're not planning on being in your highest gear then why the need for a big chainring? So, for example at 90RPM if you like 50-14 (26mph), then the equivalent for the 46T is 46-13. So just shift one cog! See what I'm saying here? Gear inches are gear inches, doesn't matter what the chainring/cog size combo is.
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Got a power meter? Cause even though the effort perceived felt the same I guarantee you were pushing more watts.
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When looked ay in gear inches, yes it's significantly different.
When looked at in cadence, at the stock tire width its just 5 turns per minute difference....and thats at a low cadence so 5 more is quite doable. Its not like the cadence is already high.
But in the end, all this is moot when discussing the linked bike which is what the OP appears to be interested in since that has a SRAM Force 46t chainring.
When looked at in cadence, at the stock tire width its just 5 turns per minute difference....and thats at a low cadence so 5 more is quite doable. Its not like the cadence is already high.
But in the end, all this is moot when discussing the linked bike which is what the OP appears to be interested in since that has a SRAM Force 46t chainring.
mstateglfr......the 2018 Diverge Expert is listed with a 42t chainring. You are still looking at the 2017, which yes, has a 46t. 46t to 42t is even a bigger difference than the numbers you've been posting.
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As for the difference between a 46t and 42t chainring, the numbers I've posted are all accurate. Those were based on the current bike's stock tire size.
Looking at the upcoming bike's tire size...
50/11 at 50rpm is 18.6mph
42/10 at 50rpm is 17.17mph
42/10 at 55rpm is 18.89mph
So the difference between your current big chainring small cog setup where you slowly churn with the wind at your back, and the potential 42/10 setup is 1.4mph slower at the same cadence.
Pedal just 5 more times each minute and you are now going faster.
This thread is going nowhere and i probably shouldn't continue because it appears actual numbers arent important. Just know that a simple 5 more crank turns in a minute(when the crank is already moving relatively slowly) of the new bike will have you riding faster than your current setup.
...or just get the current year's version thats on their site and for sale.
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If you want a taller top gear, a larger direct mount chainring is a simple and cheap mod. If instead you want a wider range, you need the 2x or a mountain cassette and derailleur, and the latter won't be cheap. I prefer both the 1x and the SRAM double tap system in general, but if you want a 2x, get the Comp and the Roval wheels, and it will be a cheaper and better bike for you.
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ah, thanks for clarifying, didnt realize we were talking about a not yet released bike. Looks like a 2017 model would be perfect for your desired slow mashing.
As for the difference between a 46t and 42t chainring, the numbers i've posted are all accurate. Those were based on the current bike's stock tire size.
Looking at the upcoming bike's tire size...
50/11 at 50rpm is 18.6mph
42/10 at 50rpm is 17.17mph
42/10 at 55rpm is 18.89mph
so the difference between your current big chainring small cog setup where you slowly churn with the wind at your back, and the potential 42/10 setup is 1.4mph slower at the same cadence.
Pedal just 5 more times each minute and you are now going faster.
This thread is going nowhere and i probably shouldn't continue because it appears actual numbers arent important. Just know that a simple 5 more crank turns in a minute(when the crank is already moving relatively slowly) of the new bike will have you riding faster than your current setup.
...or just get the current year's version thats on their site and for sale.
As for the difference between a 46t and 42t chainring, the numbers i've posted are all accurate. Those were based on the current bike's stock tire size.
Looking at the upcoming bike's tire size...
50/11 at 50rpm is 18.6mph
42/10 at 50rpm is 17.17mph
42/10 at 55rpm is 18.89mph
so the difference between your current big chainring small cog setup where you slowly churn with the wind at your back, and the potential 42/10 setup is 1.4mph slower at the same cadence.
Pedal just 5 more times each minute and you are now going faster.
This thread is going nowhere and i probably shouldn't continue because it appears actual numbers arent important. Just know that a simple 5 more crank turns in a minute(when the crank is already moving relatively slowly) of the new bike will have you riding faster than your current setup.
...or just get the current year's version thats on their site and for sale.
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#13
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#14
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The biggest issue with 1x is the gappy cassette. The jumps between gears will drive you crazy if your riding style is anything more than leisurely.
Agree with the others that the Comp + separate wheel purchase is a better deal than the Expert, and the Sport + groupset change + wheels is maybe better still. Interestingly, the Comp also comes with a CG-R seatpost whereas the Expert has a standard one. Even if you're not a fan if it, it can be sold for decent money.
Agree with the others that the Comp + separate wheel purchase is a better deal than the Expert, and the Sport + groupset change + wheels is maybe better still. Interestingly, the Comp also comes with a CG-R seatpost whereas the Expert has a standard one. Even if you're not a fan if it, it can be sold for decent money.
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One gets used to the gaps in the gears.
Hunting for the correct gear was an issue when I first went to a wide range cassette but legs get stronger, optimal cadence changes and the heart rate settles down after a few months of riding. Thankfully the body is able to adapt.
I was able to adapt more or less to a 48/16 fixed gear bike so a wide range 1x setup shouldn't be an issue for someone in reasonable health. It gets easier, or you just go faster, and numbers mean less and less as you do.
-Tim-
Hunting for the correct gear was an issue when I first went to a wide range cassette but legs get stronger, optimal cadence changes and the heart rate settles down after a few months of riding. Thankfully the body is able to adapt.
I was able to adapt more or less to a 48/16 fixed gear bike so a wide range 1x setup shouldn't be an issue for someone in reasonable health. It gets easier, or you just go faster, and numbers mean less and less as you do.
-Tim-
#16
moving target
I am used to mashing on a fixed gear at 46x12 and stuff, and spinning is way past me. My crux is geared with 48x11 and it feels like I am spinning out way to early. and I it is hard to maintain the blood sugar load to spin for that long for several hours, and thanks to family issues it is hard to keep my cardio in form to spin for that long to. I am debating a new big ring.
core strength is the only reason I wouldn't be able to make most of the hills around here.
core strength is the only reason I wouldn't be able to make most of the hills around here.