Tire lever for carbon wheels?
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Tire lever for carbon wheels?
I recently got a set of carbon wheels. I now wonder if I need special or specific tire levels or any other precaution when changing tires.
Im afraid I will damage the rim bead/bed or even the braking surface.
Thoughts?
Im afraid I will damage the rim bead/bed or even the braking surface.
Thoughts?
#2
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Plastic levers will be fine. I’ve never had a problem using them on my carbon wheels. The best thing I ever learned was to reinstall the tire without having to use a lever. You simply squeeze the tire around the rim to place it into the center channel of the rim; push more of the remaining tire onto the rim; then keep repeating until the tire is fully installed. Takes a little patience but works for me every time.
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#3
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Do your best to learn without using levers at all.
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The plain ol' plastic ones next to the register at every LBS work fine - I think mine are Pedro's, but it's not terribly important. Like others, I never use/never had to use them for mounting - just getting the first part of the bead over when removing.
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Plastic ones definitively, and thick enough to not break. Your CF wheels are able to withstand the pressure applied by the lever on a specific area.
I use the TACX.
I use the TACX.
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Plastic levers will be fine. I’ve never had a problem using them on my carbon wheels. The best thing I ever learned was to reinstall the tire without having to use a lever. You simply squeeze the tire around the rim to place it into the center channel of the rim; push more of the remaining tire onto the rim; then keep repeating until the tire is fully installed. Takes a little patience but works for me every time.
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Plastic levers will be fine. I’ve never had a problem using them on my carbon wheels. The best thing I ever learned was to reinstall the tire without having to use a lever. You simply squeeze the tire around the rim to place it into the center channel of the rim; push more of the remaining tire onto the rim; then keep repeating until the tire is fully installed. Takes a little patience but works for me every time.
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You have stronger fingers than me! Most of us still need levers to remove a tire. Avoid them to remount, of course.
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#14
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I use plastic when the tires are stubborn.
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There are lots of setups out there that cannot be bare-handed...and I've seen over-confident wrenches get cocky over it at ride-SAGs....and then return someone's wheel an hour later, crestfallen, and with bruised hands from trying to barehand it in spite of cautions.
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#18
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Well good news for you as you can have easy mounting without sacrificing any detectable performance difference.
If you're one of those people who claim they can tell the grip difference and roll resistance between 2 top performing tires, I'm willing to bet you ride once per week to go to coffee shop and show off to your friends.
Otherwise, like I said, you don't have to sacrifice anything as it's 2019 and you have loads of good choices.
To the ones who have weaker fingers, fair enough.
If you're one of those people who claim they can tell the grip difference and roll resistance between 2 top performing tires, I'm willing to bet you ride once per week to go to coffee shop and show off to your friends.
Otherwise, like I said, you don't have to sacrifice anything as it's 2019 and you have loads of good choices.
To the ones who have weaker fingers, fair enough.
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Judging from other member's answers, it seems like one should be able to unmount one side of the tire only using its fingers.
Perhaps they're Iron Man or something, because I can tell you that my finger will break in half if I try to put it between my rim and my tire and use it to pry the sidewall out.
Perhaps they're Iron Man or something, because I can tell you that my finger will break in half if I try to put it between my rim and my tire and use it to pry the sidewall out.
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Judging from other member's answers, it seems like one should be able to unmount one side of the tire only using its fingers.
Perhaps they're Iron Man or something, because I can tell you that my finger will break in half if I try to put it between my rim and my tire and use it to pry the sidewall out.
Perhaps they're Iron Man or something, because I can tell you that my finger will break in half if I try to put it between my rim and my tire and use it to pry the sidewall out.
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Judging from other member's answers, it seems like one should be able to unmount one side of the tire only using its fingers.
Perhaps they're Iron Man or something, because I can tell you that my finger will break in half if I try to put it between my rim and my tire and use it to pry the sidewall out.
Perhaps they're Iron Man or something, because I can tell you that my finger will break in half if I try to put it between my rim and my tire and use it to pry the sidewall out.
What works for me is to work both beads into the center channel, pinch the tire in one spot at the sidewalls, lift, and push the tire bead over the rim sidewall.
Prying is a non-starter because you make a tight fit worse by putting something else in between. Don't do it.
#22
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#23
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Well, of course. No smart person would do that.
What works for me is to work both beads into the center channel, pinch the tire in one spot at the sidewalls, lift, and push the tire bead over the rim sidewall.
Prying is a non-starter because you make a tight fit worse by putting something else in between. Don't do it.
What works for me is to work both beads into the center channel, pinch the tire in one spot at the sidewalls, lift, and push the tire bead over the rim sidewall.
Prying is a non-starter because you make a tight fit worse by putting something else in between. Don't do it.
#24
Senior Member
Degrees from
Using your thumbs, push the bead off the bead seat and into the center channel of the rim. Turn the rim around and do the same to the other side. During the remainder of this process, be sure to keep the bead in the center channel. The circumference of
the tire bead is larger than that of the center channel
of the rim, and the difference will be the room you have to work with. Beginning at the valve stem, pull the beads deep into the channel, so all of the excess space is on top. Imagine two concentric circles with uniform distance between them......then, pull the outside circle up until the two touch at the bottom . What you’ll have is a much greater distance between them at 180 degrees from that contact point. This, in my experience, has been plenty of room to use the heel of your hand to roll the bead (one side or both, if you want to remove the tire entirely) over the edge of the rim. Remember: at all times during the process, check to maintain that the beads are seated in that center channel. To reinstall the tire, reverse the steps, being sure to start 180 degrees from the valve stem.
I’ve been riding, racing, and wrenching bikes for over 30 years and I’ve not used a tire lever in over the last 25 of those, even with road tubeless tires which have a shallower center channel. It’s faster, safer, and requires fewer tools to carry. Practice, follow the steps. Good luck.
the tire bead is larger than that of the center channel
of the rim, and the difference will be the room you have to work with. Beginning at the valve stem, pull the beads deep into the channel, so all of the excess space is on top. Imagine two concentric circles with uniform distance between them......then, pull the outside circle up until the two touch at the bottom . What you’ll have is a much greater distance between them at 180 degrees from that contact point. This, in my experience, has been plenty of room to use the heel of your hand to roll the bead (one side or both, if you want to remove the tire entirely) over the edge of the rim. Remember: at all times during the process, check to maintain that the beads are seated in that center channel. To reinstall the tire, reverse the steps, being sure to start 180 degrees from the valve stem.
I’ve been riding, racing, and wrenching bikes for over 30 years and I’ve not used a tire lever in over the last 25 of those, even with road tubeless tires which have a shallower center channel. It’s faster, safer, and requires fewer tools to carry. Practice, follow the steps. Good luck.
#25
Full Member
Degrees from
Using your thumbs, push the bead off the bead seat and into the center channel of the rim. Turn the rim around and do the same to the other side. During the remainder of this process, be sure to keep the bead in the center channel. The circumference of
the tire bead is larger than that of the center channel
of the rim, and the difference will be the room you have to work with. Beginning at the valve stem, pull the beads deep into the channel, so all of the excess space is on top. Imagine two concentric circles with uniform distance between them......then, pull the outside circle up until the two touch at the bottom . What you’ll have is a much greater distance between them at 180 degrees from that contact point. This, in my experience, has been plenty of room to use the heel of your hand to roll the bead (one side or both, if you want to remove the tire entirely) over the edge of the rim. Remember: at all times during the process, check to maintain that the beads are seated in that center channel. To reinstall the tire, reverse the steps, being sure to start 180 degrees from the valve stem.
I’ve been riding, racing, and wrenching bikes for over 30 years and I’ve not used a tire lever in over the last 25 of those, even with road tubeless tires which have a shallower center channel. It’s faster, safer, and requires fewer tools to carry. Practice, follow the steps. Good luck.
Using your thumbs, push the bead off the bead seat and into the center channel of the rim. Turn the rim around and do the same to the other side. During the remainder of this process, be sure to keep the bead in the center channel. The circumference of
the tire bead is larger than that of the center channel
of the rim, and the difference will be the room you have to work with. Beginning at the valve stem, pull the beads deep into the channel, so all of the excess space is on top. Imagine two concentric circles with uniform distance between them......then, pull the outside circle up until the two touch at the bottom . What you’ll have is a much greater distance between them at 180 degrees from that contact point. This, in my experience, has been plenty of room to use the heel of your hand to roll the bead (one side or both, if you want to remove the tire entirely) over the edge of the rim. Remember: at all times during the process, check to maintain that the beads are seated in that center channel. To reinstall the tire, reverse the steps, being sure to start 180 degrees from the valve stem.
I’ve been riding, racing, and wrenching bikes for over 30 years and I’ve not used a tire lever in over the last 25 of those, even with road tubeless tires which have a shallower center channel. It’s faster, safer, and requires fewer tools to carry. Practice, follow the steps. Good luck.