Show us your "Drain Holes" :)
05-01-20, 12:48 AM
#176
Rider since 74. New here.
Thanks for the advisement, I’ll add those.
The blue is a 1975 Raleigh Professional built at the Carlton Worksop Cycleworks - the cutouts are ‘CC’ for Carlton Cycles.
https://on-the-drops.blogspot.com/20...leigh.html?m=1
The orange one is a repainted 1988 Schwinn Premis.
The blue is a 1975 Raleigh Professional built at the Carlton Worksop Cycleworks - the cutouts are ‘CC’ for Carlton Cycles.
https://on-the-drops.blogspot.com/20...leigh.html?m=1
The orange one is a repainted 1988 Schwinn Premis.
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05-01-20, 01:58 AM
#177
blahblahblah chrome moly
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Breaking the rules, I know -- it's not a bottom bracket...
As fork blade drain holes go, pretty effective, no way any puddle can collect when the hole is at the very bottom. An unthreaded hub axle could theoretically block this hole from draining, but this bike has always had Campy Record hubs with threaded axles -- the threads would let any water through. Not that there ever is any.
This is an internal plug-style dropout, which I drilled on the lathe before brazing. The plug is drilled so it's hollow, at a larger diameter than the hole you see. Mostly to be easier/quicker to braze (with pre-placed rings of braze filler of course), and also a few milligrams lighter, for dominating on the mountain passes.
Then a 3 mm drain hole is drilled all the way through, for quick drainage (and saving another milligram or two).
Drilling each one on a WWII-era manual lathe was not cost-effective, so I only did this on "specials".
The vent hole for the top of the fork blades is inside the fork crown -- see it?
The crown was drilled at 1/2" so it's "hollow" (milligrams!), then the steerer and blades are drilled at a smaller size for venting. That hole is hidden in use, by a wood "cornouiller" (dogwood dowel), shoved in the bottom of the steerer, so water never gets in there.
I also drilled the rear dropouts to vent the seatstays; the hole emerges into the semi-triangular cutout between the seatstay and the hub axle. Don't have a great photo of it, so use your imagination:
The vent hole for the top of the seatstays is inside the seat lug:
This works because of the "half-fast" seatstay top, that's hollow right out to the top. None of that solid-plug nonsense you see on some bikes.
The bottom bracket drain hole is super boring:
But it lets the water out.
This is on a 1988 Davidson I made for myself. I raced it for a few years, then it became a sunny Sundays kinda bike.
Mark B in Seattle
As fork blade drain holes go, pretty effective, no way any puddle can collect when the hole is at the very bottom. An unthreaded hub axle could theoretically block this hole from draining, but this bike has always had Campy Record hubs with threaded axles -- the threads would let any water through. Not that there ever is any.
This is an internal plug-style dropout, which I drilled on the lathe before brazing. The plug is drilled so it's hollow, at a larger diameter than the hole you see. Mostly to be easier/quicker to braze (with pre-placed rings of braze filler of course), and also a few milligrams lighter, for dominating on the mountain passes.
Then a 3 mm drain hole is drilled all the way through, for quick drainage (and saving another milligram or two). Drilling each one on a WWII-era manual lathe was not cost-effective, so I only did this on "specials".
The vent hole for the top of the fork blades is inside the fork crown -- see it?
The crown was drilled at 1/2" so it's "hollow" (milligrams!), then the steerer and blades are drilled at a smaller size for venting. That hole is hidden in use, by a wood "cornouiller" (dogwood dowel), shoved in the bottom of the steerer, so water never gets in there.
I also drilled the rear dropouts to vent the seatstays; the hole emerges into the semi-triangular cutout between the seatstay and the hub axle. Don't have a great photo of it, so use your imagination:
The vent hole for the top of the seatstays is inside the seat lug:
This works because of the "half-fast" seatstay top, that's hollow right out to the top. None of that solid-plug nonsense you see on some bikes.
The bottom bracket drain hole is super boring:
But it lets the water out.
This is on a 1988 Davidson I made for myself. I raced it for a few years, then it became a sunny Sundays kinda bike.
Mark B in Seattle
05-01-20, 08:22 AM
#179
blahblahblah chrome moly
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* yeah this was before digital cameras, or at least before rubes like me ever heard of them. Anyone remember film? Was anyone else here ever too poor to afford to get their film developed?
My roommate did take 4 pics each, of the 2nd and 3rd frames I ever made, in '78. you can see them here. The first frame came out nice too, but I didn't know that photog roommate yet when #1 was made, so no pics. #1 is still being ridden though, it never broke (yay me!)
Check out especially how the brakes, F.der. and saddle are attached on #2 (the red one). That was before braze-on F. der.s were a "thing" ya know. Clever? Insane/stupid? All of the above? In my defense, I was 20 years old, and that's practically a teenager! ~30 years later, "seat masts" became a thing, and I thought they were stupid. Not just because I was a crotchety old retrogrouch, but because I'd tried the idea, so I knew first-hand it was stupid (and still is). I don't like braze-on F.der.s either -- been there, tried that.
Some of my later frames got written up in bike magazines, so they're documented there, and there are a few racing shots of people winning medals at Nationals and Worlds, or riding in the Olympics, on frames that I was too poor/lazy to take my own pictures of as I made them.
Bicycling! tested a Rodriguez tandem I built in 1980, and called it the most advanced tandem they'd ever seen. Really bad pictures though.
Bicycle Guide did a "Hot Tubes" half-page feature on a Davidson frame I built in about '89. They misquoted me though. For one thing, they said the frame was under 3 lb., which was true, but it was also under 2.5 lb, which was noteworthy I think! Pretty much unheard-of at the time. The steel fork was under a pound. Laurie rode that bike for over 15 years, and she rode hard, and high-mileage back then. (Ex-racer, and all her riding buddies were racers or ex-racers.) I mention that in case anyone thinks that was a "bike-shaped object", not strong enough to actually ride. It eventually died from rust -- perforated, ironically, from being ridden hard and put away wet, literally. Hung from the front wheel, so water collected in the chainstays at the dropouts, and that's where it rusted through. The one place I didn't put a drain hole! (oops)
There are albums in my Flickr of a few frames I built, including a superlight Ti Cycles titanium XC-racing MTB I made for Laurie, which we later turned into a grocery-getter. I never did get around to making a Ti frame for myself, but I did make one for my mom (!) And here's a touring bike I made for my dad.
A guy I built a stainless-steel frame for in '98 did a photo montage, which you can see here. That's the last frame I ever built. I got laid off (the only time in my life) when Match went out of business. Too bad, fun place to work, but an insane business model. That was '98 and it was real easy to get a job in IT at the time, so I reluctantly took a job at Microsoft... where I could finally afford a camera but had no shop or any time to make frames.
I miss framebuilding though, and I will probably make a few more frames before I croak. Still no shop, but I'm setting up to be able to build a frame out in my driveway, total caveman style. No jig or alignment table, hand-filed miters, a hand drill as my only power tool. Proudly no-tech.
Thanks for indulging me.
Mark B
05-01-20, 06:35 PM
#180
Disciple of St. Tullio
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1970s Losa
05-01-20, 07:31 PM
#181
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Well, ain't you sweet. But unfortunately I never took pics while I was building frames. Either (a) too poor to afford a camera and film processing* or (b) just didn't think of it. Or both. A couple frames I built for me or Laurie are still in the house, and that's all I can take pictures of.
* yeah this was before digital cameras, or at least before rubes like me ever heard of them. Anyone remember film? Was anyone else here ever too poor to afford to get their film developed?
My roommate did take 4 pics each, of the 2nd and 3rd frames I ever made, in '78. you can see them here. The first frame came out nice too, but I didn't know that photog roommate yet when #1 was made, so no pics. #1 is still being ridden though, it never broke (yay me!)
Check out especially how the brakes, F.der. and saddle are attached on #2 (the red one). That was before braze-on F. der.s were a "thing" ya know. Clever? Insane/stupid? All of the above? In my defense, I was 20 years old, and that's practically a teenager! ~30 years later, "seat masts" became a thing, and I thought they were stupid. Not just because I was a crotchety old retrogrouch, but because I'd tried the idea, so I knew first-hand it was stupid (and still is). I don't like braze-on F.der.s either -- been there, tried that.
Some of my later frames got written up in bike magazines, so they're documented there, and there are a few racing shots of people winning medals at Nationals and Worlds, or riding in the Olympics, on frames that I was too poor/lazy to take my own pictures of as I made them.
Bicycling! tested a Rodriguez tandem I built in 1980, and called it the most advanced tandem they'd ever seen. Really bad pictures though.
Bicycle Guide did a "Hot Tubes" half-page feature on a Davidson frame I built in about '89. They misquoted me though. For one thing, they said the frame was under 3 lb., which was true, but it was also under 2.5 lb, which was noteworthy I think! Pretty much unheard-of at the time. The steel fork was under a pound. Laurie rode that bike for over 15 years, and she rode hard, and high-mileage back then. (Ex-racer, and all her riding buddies were racers or ex-racers.) I mention that in case anyone thinks that was a "bike-shaped object", not strong enough to actually ride. It eventually died from rust -- perforated, ironically, from being ridden hard and put away wet, literally. Hung from the front wheel, so water collected in the chainstays at the dropouts, and that's where it rusted through. The one place I didn't put a drain hole! (oops)
There are albums in my Flickr of a few frames I built, including a superlight Ti Cycles titanium XC-racing MTB I made for Laurie, which we later turned into a grocery-getter. I never did get around to making a Ti frame for myself, but I did make one for my mom (!) And here's a touring bike I made for my dad.
A guy I built a stainless-steel frame for in '98 did a photo montage, which you can see here. That's the last frame I ever built. I got laid off (the only time in my life) when Match went out of business. Too bad, fun place to work, but an insane business model. That was '98 and it was real easy to get a job in IT at the time, so I reluctantly took a job at Microsoft... where I could finally afford a camera but had no shop or any time to make frames.
I miss framebuilding though, and I will probably make a few more frames before I croak. Still no shop, but I'm setting up to be able to build a frame out in my driveway, total caveman style. No jig or alignment table, hand-filed miters, a hand drill as my only power tool. Proudly no-tech.
Thanks for indulging me.
Mark B
* yeah this was before digital cameras, or at least before rubes like me ever heard of them. Anyone remember film? Was anyone else here ever too poor to afford to get their film developed?
My roommate did take 4 pics each, of the 2nd and 3rd frames I ever made, in '78. you can see them here. The first frame came out nice too, but I didn't know that photog roommate yet when #1 was made, so no pics. #1 is still being ridden though, it never broke (yay me!)
Check out especially how the brakes, F.der. and saddle are attached on #2 (the red one). That was before braze-on F. der.s were a "thing" ya know. Clever? Insane/stupid? All of the above? In my defense, I was 20 years old, and that's practically a teenager! ~30 years later, "seat masts" became a thing, and I thought they were stupid. Not just because I was a crotchety old retrogrouch, but because I'd tried the idea, so I knew first-hand it was stupid (and still is). I don't like braze-on F.der.s either -- been there, tried that.
Some of my later frames got written up in bike magazines, so they're documented there, and there are a few racing shots of people winning medals at Nationals and Worlds, or riding in the Olympics, on frames that I was too poor/lazy to take my own pictures of as I made them.
Bicycling! tested a Rodriguez tandem I built in 1980, and called it the most advanced tandem they'd ever seen. Really bad pictures though.
Bicycle Guide did a "Hot Tubes" half-page feature on a Davidson frame I built in about '89. They misquoted me though. For one thing, they said the frame was under 3 lb., which was true, but it was also under 2.5 lb, which was noteworthy I think! Pretty much unheard-of at the time. The steel fork was under a pound. Laurie rode that bike for over 15 years, and she rode hard, and high-mileage back then. (Ex-racer, and all her riding buddies were racers or ex-racers.) I mention that in case anyone thinks that was a "bike-shaped object", not strong enough to actually ride. It eventually died from rust -- perforated, ironically, from being ridden hard and put away wet, literally. Hung from the front wheel, so water collected in the chainstays at the dropouts, and that's where it rusted through. The one place I didn't put a drain hole! (oops)
There are albums in my Flickr of a few frames I built, including a superlight Ti Cycles titanium XC-racing MTB I made for Laurie, which we later turned into a grocery-getter. I never did get around to making a Ti frame for myself, but I did make one for my mom (!) And here's a touring bike I made for my dad.
A guy I built a stainless-steel frame for in '98 did a photo montage, which you can see here. That's the last frame I ever built. I got laid off (the only time in my life) when Match went out of business. Too bad, fun place to work, but an insane business model. That was '98 and it was real easy to get a job in IT at the time, so I reluctantly took a job at Microsoft... where I could finally afford a camera but had no shop or any time to make frames.
I miss framebuilding though, and I will probably make a few more frames before I croak. Still no shop, but I'm setting up to be able to build a frame out in my driveway, total caveman style. No jig or alignment table, hand-filed miters, a hand drill as my only power tool. Proudly no-tech.
Thanks for indulging me.
Mark B
Keith Lippy in late '74 did an integrated seat mast for a guy I raced against, as he was 15, I wondered about that being a permanent idea, there was room to braze a provision for a bolt later on.
I forget how the saddle attachment was done.
Clever through-bolt fitting for the derailleur, I think I would have brazed on an added thickness- You gave a generous amount of adjustment.
Overall, clever.
the detail I saw on one frame that was not clever was where the chain-stay bridge was a clear through section of tubing. So it was brazed at the inner and outer edges of the stays. Filed net to the stay outer surfaces, I think the builder used the same diameter as Reynolds supplied for the brake bridge with some sets. It cracked.
05-01-20, 07:36 PM
#182
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Breaking the rules, I know -- it's not a bottom bracket...
As fork blade drain holes go, pretty effective, no way any puddle can collect when the hole is at the very bottom. An unthreaded hub axle could theoretically block this hole from draining, but this bike has always had Campy Record hubs with threaded axles -- the threads would let any water through. Not that there ever is any.
This is an internal plug-style dropout, which I drilled on the lathe before brazing. The plug is drilled so it's hollow, at a larger diameter than the hole you see. Mostly to be easier/quicker to braze (with pre-placed rings of braze filler of course), and also a few milligrams lighter, for dominating on the mountain passes. Then a 3 mm drain hole is drilled all the way through, for quick drainage (and saving another milligram or two).
Drilling each one on a WWII-era manual lathe was not cost-effective, so I only did this on "specials".
The vent hole for the top of the fork blades is inside the fork crown -- see it?
The crown was drilled at 1/2" so it's "hollow" (milligrams!), then the steerer and blades are drilled at a smaller size for venting. That hole is hidden in use, by a wood "cornouiller" (dogwood dowel), shoved in the bottom of the steerer, so water never gets in there.
I also drilled the rear dropouts to vent the seatstays; the hole emerges into the semi-triangular cutout between the seatstay and the hub axle. Don't have a great photo of it, so use your imagination:
The vent hole for the top of the seatstays is inside the seat lug:
This works because of the "half-fast" seatstay top, that's hollow right out to the top. None of that solid-plug nonsense you see on some bikes.
The bottom bracket drain hole is super boring:
But it lets the water out.
This is on a 1988 Davidson I made for myself. I raced it for a few years, then it became a sunny Sundays kinda bike.
Mark B in Seattle
As fork blade drain holes go, pretty effective, no way any puddle can collect when the hole is at the very bottom. An unthreaded hub axle could theoretically block this hole from draining, but this bike has always had Campy Record hubs with threaded axles -- the threads would let any water through. Not that there ever is any.
This is an internal plug-style dropout, which I drilled on the lathe before brazing. The plug is drilled so it's hollow, at a larger diameter than the hole you see. Mostly to be easier/quicker to braze (with pre-placed rings of braze filler of course), and also a few milligrams lighter, for dominating on the mountain passes.
Then a 3 mm drain hole is drilled all the way through, for quick drainage (and saving another milligram or two).Drilling each one on a WWII-era manual lathe was not cost-effective, so I only did this on "specials".
The vent hole for the top of the fork blades is inside the fork crown -- see it?
The crown was drilled at 1/2" so it's "hollow" (milligrams!), then the steerer and blades are drilled at a smaller size for venting. That hole is hidden in use, by a wood "cornouiller" (dogwood dowel), shoved in the bottom of the steerer, so water never gets in there.
I also drilled the rear dropouts to vent the seatstays; the hole emerges into the semi-triangular cutout between the seatstay and the hub axle. Don't have a great photo of it, so use your imagination:
The vent hole for the top of the seatstays is inside the seat lug:
This works because of the "half-fast" seatstay top, that's hollow right out to the top. None of that solid-plug nonsense you see on some bikes.
The bottom bracket drain hole is super boring:
But it lets the water out.
This is on a 1988 Davidson I made for myself. I raced it for a few years, then it became a sunny Sundays kinda bike.
Mark B in Seattle
Always wondered about the diameter to select of the "plug" as the stay or forkblade tapers.
05-01-20, 07:49 PM
#183
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Thanks for sharing those images - I'm inspired. I'd love to try my hand at building a frame one day, although I really have no experience with metal work at all.
Out of interest, why don't you like braze-on FD mounts? Because it weakens the frame?
05-01-20, 08:27 PM
#184
blahblahblah chrome moly
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But for me it's more the limiting of chainring sizes and derailer brands/models, with no real advantage that I can see, to outweigh or "pay you back for" those limitations.
I made probably a thousand frames with braze-on F.der.s, so my hatred for them is not all-consuming! That '80s pink bike (in the drain-hole pictures) that I made for myself has a braze-on, and no one was holding a gun to my head to make me do it. I just don't like 'em quite as much anymore.
Mark B
05-01-20, 10:50 PM
#185
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I guess, a little -- I have seen frames break there at the braze-on. But then again I've also seen frames get a dent from overtightening the clamp-on style too.
But for me it's more the limiting of chainring sizes and derailer brands/models, with no real advantage that I can see, to outweigh or "pay you back for" those limitations.
I made probably a thousand frames with braze-on F.der.s, so my hatred for them is not all-consuming! That '80s pink bike (in the drain-hole pictures) that I made for myself has a braze-on, and no one was holding a gun to my head to make me do it. I just don't like 'em quite as much anymore.
Mark B
But for me it's more the limiting of chainring sizes and derailer brands/models, with no real advantage that I can see, to outweigh or "pay you back for" those limitations.
I made probably a thousand frames with braze-on F.der.s, so my hatred for them is not all-consuming! That '80s pink bike (in the drain-hole pictures) that I made for myself has a braze-on, and no one was holding a gun to my head to make me do it. I just don't like 'em quite as much anymore.
Mark B
spot and limitations, glad he did, you guys are right, not sure I would have got there.
05-02-20, 05:53 AM
#186
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But function demands a drain hole, and yes of course it should be at the bottom.
Here's the drain hole on a 59 Carlton fork:
Last edited by oneclick; 05-02-20 at 05:57 AM.
05-02-20, 12:55 PM
#187
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AFAIK those little holes in the fork blades, stays, bridges, etc. are less for moisture to drain away then for the heated air (and gasses) that would be trapped in a closed tube during brazing ( whatever other method of high-heat application during the build) and need an escape path.
I also think some of the "extreme" examples of material removed from a BB shell is a highly dubious practice, and especially when "stress risers" are also incorporated. But, I don't build 'em so it's just IMHO. The fact that they (or at least one) are still on the road must count for something.
I also think some of the "extreme" examples of material removed from a BB shell is a highly dubious practice, and especially when "stress risers" are also incorporated. But, I don't build 'em so it's just IMHO. The fact that they (or at least one) are still on the road must count for something.
05-02-20, 05:01 PM
#188
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AFAIK those little holes in the fork blades, stays, bridges, etc. are less for moisture to drain away then for the heated air (and gasses) that would be trapped in a closed tube during brazing ( whatever other method of high-heat application during the build) and need an escape path.
I also think some of the "extreme" examples of material removed from a BB shell is a highly dubious practice, and especially when "stress risers" are also incorporated. But, I don't build 'em so it's just IMHO. The fact that they (or at least one) are still on the road must count for something.
I also think some of the "extreme" examples of material removed from a BB shell is a highly dubious practice, and especially when "stress risers" are also incorporated. But, I don't build 'em so it's just IMHO. The fact that they (or at least one) are still on the road must count for something.
a) there are other vent holes at the tops of the fork blades; and
b) they were drilled after brazing.
05-02-20, 05:05 PM
#189
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AFAIK those little holes in the fork blades, stays, bridges, etc. are less for moisture to drain away then for the heated air (and gasses) that would be trapped in a closed tube during brazing ( whatever other method of high-heat application during the build) and need an escape path.
I also think some of the "extreme" examples of material removed from a BB shell is a highly dubious practice, and especially when "stress risers" are also incorporated. But, I don't build 'em so it's just IMHO. The fact that they (or at least one) are still on the road must count for something.
I also think some of the "extreme" examples of material removed from a BB shell is a highly dubious practice, and especially when "stress risers" are also incorporated. But, I don't build 'em so it's just IMHO. The fact that they (or at least one) are still on the road must count for something.
Some high-end builders closed the vent holes, typically by brazing, before plating or painting. Trouble with that is, in the case of chrome, the brass braze plug was sometimes porous and let some chroming acid in, but prevented thorough flushing of the acid out, and the result was a seatstay completely eaten through in maybe a year. Saw that a few times, on fancy custom or high-end production frames.
Turns out, plugging a vent hole by brass brazing it is really hard, because of the heated air trying to escape as you're trying to plug the hole. Can still be worth it, if only to keep sand-blasting sand from getting out while you're painting, and sticking in the wet paint. But don't try it on the seatstays or other closed space, with a frame that will be plated. Just drill vent holes that are a nice fit for wooden toothpicks and your painter will be happy.
As far as BB cutouts causing "stress risers" -- has anyone here ever seen a frame that developed a crack or other problem due to cutouts? I didn't think so.
The "CC" in a Carlton or the "M" in a Masi had plenty of sharp corners. Others removed a higher percentage of the total amount of metal in the bottom of the shell, still zero problems. The metal is thick there, and relatively lightly stressed. Don't worry about it. On a few superlight frames, I bored out the BB shell on the inside, the center section between the threads, to a pretty thin wall, around 1/3 the as-delivered thickness (which was already lightened somewhat by boring). Never any problem, which led me to believe most shells are at least 3 times as thick there as they need to be.
Mark B in Seattle
05-03-20, 01:47 AM
#190
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Bikes: Looking to buy a Masi Special track frame 57*57 or thereabouts or a Pogliaghi Italcorse or a De Rosa Prestige. I have owned a Mario Confenti brazed Carlsblad Masi with twin plate fork crown [Brian Bayliss] and 2 later model Pogliaghi track frames.
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Rust free for life
No water accumulation issues with my track frame.
Has the Shimano seatstay end and chainstay end [frame ens] been modified where it meets the seatstay, or were they made like that?
In the 1970s on flat tracks around ovals track racing was an all weather race [from dim/distant recollection]
Has this seatstay end been modified?
Has the Shimano seatstay end and chainstay end [frame ens] been modified where it meets the seatstay, or were they made like that?
In the 1970s on flat tracks around ovals track racing was an all weather race [from dim/distant recollection]
Has this seatstay end been modified?
Last edited by campagnolo kid; 05-03-20 at 02:20 AM.
05-03-20, 03:35 AM
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I don't think modified is the right word - there are many ways to finish the stay ends, yours was just what the framebuilder decided on. The track ends (dropouts) have been modified though - Shimano track ends didn't have a hole where the stays terminate:
But most framebuilders would modify the track ends or dropouts to some degree, if only to match the width of the stays.
But most framebuilders would modify the track ends or dropouts to some degree, if only to match the width of the stays.
05-03-20, 05:22 AM
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05-03-20, 01:32 PM
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"As far as BB cutouts causing "stress risers" -- has anyone here ever seen a frame that developed a crack or other problem due to cutouts? I didn't think so." Completely valid, most I have ever seen were cracked at the seat tube or down tube sockets, so probably had some "overheating" involved...and Mark B. knows far more about building a frame then I ever will, but nevertheless, when I look at THIS one (a Witcomb) I just shakes my head.
05-03-20, 05:27 PM
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Bikes: Looking to buy a Masi Special track frame 57*57 or thereabouts or a Pogliaghi Italcorse or a De Rosa Prestige. I have owned a Mario Confenti brazed Carlsblad Masi with twin plate fork crown [Brian Bayliss] and 2 later model Pogliaghi track frames.
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There are more pictures on page 7 including a twin plate fork crown which is different from Masi twin plates.
I'm keen to find out myself as it's awaiting a metallic spray in a panel shop.
The track ends are the shimano ones pictured above.
I suspect it's Australian and maybe from South Australia. 68mm bb shell. Steerer tube cut down to suit 34mm track headset (Campi Nuovo Record or Japanese)
I'm keen to find out myself as it's awaiting a metallic spray in a panel shop.
The track ends are the shimano ones pictured above.
I suspect it's Australian and maybe from South Australia. 68mm bb shell. Steerer tube cut down to suit 34mm track headset (Campi Nuovo Record or Japanese)
Last edited by campagnolo kid; 05-03-20 at 05:36 PM. Reason: additional info
05-13-20, 05:39 PM
#197
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Bikes: Looking to buy a Masi Special track frame 57*57 or thereabouts or a Pogliaghi Italcorse or a De Rosa Prestige. I have owned a Mario Confenti brazed Carlsblad Masi with twin plate fork crown [Brian Bayliss] and 2 later model Pogliaghi track frames.
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has anyone seen a De Rosa bb shell like this one?
It's for sale on ebay presently but not a bargain if it isn't what it claims.
If those holes were hand filed they are incredibly detailed and even.
It's for sale on ebay presently but not a bargain if it isn't what it claims.
If those holes were hand filed they are incredibly detailed and even.
Last edited by campagnolo kid; 05-22-20 at 12:53 AM. Reason: additional comment
05-31-20, 09:50 AM
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There's certainly some inconsistencies in De Rosas of that period but I'd be a bit skeptical of that cutout.
Last edited by sheddle; 05-31-20 at 09:53 AM.
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