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Freehub overhaul vs. flush and lube

Old 05-01-19, 07:40 AM
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eeuuugh
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Freehub overhaul vs. flush and lube

I have a Deore LX hub that's about 20 years old and the freehub is sticky. I'm comfortable removing the freehub and making a spline tool to disassemble it if it comes to that, but I wanted to ask for opinions on doing a full overhaul versus flushing it with solvent and lubricating with a heavy oil. I'd rather do less work, but how long would tenacious oil effectively lubricate the bearings? Won't solvent remain in the freehub and make it even less effective? If I overhaul, how likely is it that park grease won't eventually run and impede the pawls? Anyone have thoughts or experience?
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Old 05-01-19, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by eeuuugh
I have a Deore LX hub that's about 20 years old and the freehub is sticky.... I'd rather do less work, but how long would tenacious oil effectively lubricate the bearings?
I'm a do-less-work guy too. Whenever I am repacking the hub bearings, I remove the freehub body and lube it. For me, this means peeling back the rubber seal and dripping a little 30w oil into it. I spin it to distribute the oil and listen. When it begins to sound wet, I'm done.

BTW, what do you mean that the freehubs is "sticky"?

Less work, more riding.
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Old 05-01-19, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BCDrums
I'm a do-less-work guy too. Whenever I am repacking the hub bearings, I remove the freehub body and lube it. For me, this means peeling back the rubber seal and dripping a little 30w oil into it. I spin it to distribute the oil and listen. When it begins to sound wet, I'm done.
Ditto. You can also soak the freehub in Odorless Mineral Spirits after removing the rubber seal. Spin the hub around every few hours to loosen up the gunk. If you have access to an air compressor you can blow out the residual OMS to dry or just let it sit for a couple of days to dry. I've found that Shimano hubs like a lube roughly in the 90 weight viscosity such as Phil's Tenacious, Chain L chain lube, 90wt gear oil, etc. Anything heavier such as grease tends to slow the teeth from engaging and lighter tends to seep through the seals. I've done the complete disassembly/clean/re-assemble deal and is a PITA trying to count and put all the little ball bearings in place and not much better than the flush and lube method.
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Old 05-01-19, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by BCDrums
BTW, what do you mean that the freehubs is "sticky"?

Less work, more riding.
I got it from a friend, don't know how many miles on it but the rim it's laced to is very worn. It ratchets but there's a lot of resistance when turning the freehub by hand, my best guess is the grease in the freehub has turned to gunk.
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Old 05-01-19, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Crankycrank
Ditto. You can also soak the freehub in Odorless Mineral Spirits after removing the rubber seal. Spin the hub around every few hours to loosen up the gunk. If you have access to an air compressor you can blow out the residual OMS to dry or just let it sit for a couple of days to dry. I've found that Shimano hubs like a lube roughly in the 90 weight viscosity such as Phil's Tenacious, Chain L chain lube, 90wt gear oil, etc. Anything heavier such as grease tends to slow the teeth from engaging and lighter tends to seep through the seals. I've done the complete disassembly/clean/re-assemble deal and is a PITA trying to count and put all the little ball bearings in place and not much better than the flush and lube method.
Thanks, I've got mineral spirits and access to an air compressor, was thinking that might be the best way to dissipate the solvent. I watched RJ the bike guy's videos on this and didn't like how he just wiped it dry and shook the solvent out.
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Old 05-01-19, 09:34 AM
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I'd make the options a) remove flush and relube , or b) just replace ..

given, as you say, : "It's about 20 years old" ...

Freehub drivers separate from the hubshell (except for low/least cost bike's parts) ...







....

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Old 05-01-19, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by eeuuugh
I got it from a friend, don't know how many miles on it but the rim it's laced to is very worn. It ratchets but there's a lot of resistance when turning the freehub by hand, my best guess is the grease in the freehub has turned to gunk.
might be time to get a new replacement wheel, general bike shop repair wheel ..
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Old 05-01-19, 09:47 AM
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[QUOTE=BCDrums;20909114]I'm a do-less-work guy too. Whenever I am repacking the hub bearings, I remove the freehub body and lube it. For me, this means peeling back the rubber seal and dripping a little 30w oil into it. I spin it to distribute the oil and listen. When it begins to sound wet, I'm done.

BTW, what do you mean that the freehubs is "sticky"?

Less work, more riding.

This to begin and see how you get on. Most likely all you need to do.
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Old 05-01-19, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Crankycrank
Ditto. You can also soak the freehub in Odorless Mineral Spirits after removing the rubber seal. Spin the hub around every few hours to loosen up the gunk. If you have access to an air compressor you can blow out the residual OMS to dry or just let it sit for a couple of days to dry. I've found that Shimano hubs like a lube roughly in the 90 weight viscosity such as Phil's Tenacious, Chain L chain lube, 90wt gear oil, etc. Anything heavier such as grease tends to slow the teeth from engaging and lighter tends to seep through the seals. I've done the complete disassembly/clean/re-assemble deal and is a PITA trying to count and put all the little ball bearings in place and not much better than the flush and lube method.
This! I've overhauled many freewheels and a number of freehub bodies back when. Even had (still do?) the Shimano tool for working on the FH body's threaded bearing ring. There's little to be gained by taking them apart compared to simple flush/soak. If you have access to compressed air then just use that to blow out solvent/OMS. Often these FH bodies have a "rubber" seal on their backside that can be pried out and reinstalled w/o a complete tear down.

I'll add that on the various freewheels and FH bodies I have greased I've never had an issue with pawl hang up. But I only applied grease to the ball pathways and coated all else with Phil oil or equivalent. Same as I do with SA AW hubs Andy.
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Old 05-01-19, 11:01 AM
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Years ago I bought the shimano freehub tool so I could add a heavier spring for the pawls. The reason for the heavier spring is that I have a Freehub Daddy and use it to pump grease through the freehub body every 5k miles. I never have freehub problems.
If I were going to service mine today I would flush and oil because the 'Daddy' is no longer available.
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Old 05-01-19, 12:01 PM
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Morningstar and JA Stein both offered (still do?) grease injection tools for freewheels and FH Bodies. I've used both many times and sometimes they work less messily the other times. Always with Phil grease which is thinner then some and less prone to pawl stick. Not heard of the "Daddy" tool name though. Andy
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Old 05-01-19, 12:28 PM
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The name was Freehub Buddy
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Old 05-01-19, 02:27 PM
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Thanks everyone! Looks like I'm going to flush it and lubricate it.

Originally Posted by fietsbob
might be time to get a new replacement wheel, general bike shop repair wheel ..
Tossing the rim and keeping the hub.
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Old 05-01-19, 09:58 PM
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[QUOTE=Andrew R Stewart;20909561]Morningstar and JA Stein both offered (still do?).../QUOTE]
Andy, I don't think I have seen anything in a several years as my family could use a couple.
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Old 05-02-19, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by davidad
Years ago I bought the shimano freehub tool so I could add a heavier spring for the pawls. The reason for the heavier spring is that I have a Freehub Daddy and use it to pump grease through the freehub body every 5k miles. I never have freehub problems.
If I were going to service mine today I would flush and oil because the 'Daddy' is no longer available.
My mistake it's Buddy.
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Old 05-02-19, 01:24 PM
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[QUOTE=easyupbug;20910287]
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Morningstar and JA Stein both offered (still do?).../QUOTE]
Andy, I don't think I have seen anything in a several years as my family could use a couple.
https://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...eehub-flusher/
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Old 05-02-19, 08:05 PM
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Unless someone has taken over the Morningstar brand, I'd assume that any of his tools are NLA.
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Old 05-02-19, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by eeuuugh
Thanks, I've got mineral spirits and access to an air compressor, was thinking that might be the best way to dissipate the solvent. I watched RJ the bike guy's videos on this and didn't like how he just wiped it dry and shook the solvent out.
After the solvent, I like to spray brake cleaner inside. It drives out the solvent and naturally evaporates quickly. Then the air.
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