Freehub overhaul vs. flush and lube
#1
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Freehub overhaul vs. flush and lube
I have a Deore LX hub that's about 20 years old and the freehub is sticky. I'm comfortable removing the freehub and making a spline tool to disassemble it if it comes to that, but I wanted to ask for opinions on doing a full overhaul versus flushing it with solvent and lubricating with a heavy oil. I'd rather do less work, but how long would tenacious oil effectively lubricate the bearings? Won't solvent remain in the freehub and make it even less effective? If I overhaul, how likely is it that park grease won't eventually run and impede the pawls? Anyone have thoughts or experience?
#2
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BTW, what do you mean that the freehubs is "sticky"?
Less work, more riding.
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I'm a do-less-work guy too. Whenever I am repacking the hub bearings, I remove the freehub body and lube it. For me, this means peeling back the rubber seal and dripping a little 30w oil into it. I spin it to distribute the oil and listen. When it begins to sound wet, I'm done.
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#4
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I got it from a friend, don't know how many miles on it but the rim it's laced to is very worn. It ratchets but there's a lot of resistance when turning the freehub by hand, my best guess is the grease in the freehub has turned to gunk.
#5
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Ditto. You can also soak the freehub in Odorless Mineral Spirits after removing the rubber seal. Spin the hub around every few hours to loosen up the gunk. If you have access to an air compressor you can blow out the residual OMS to dry or just let it sit for a couple of days to dry. I've found that Shimano hubs like a lube roughly in the 90 weight viscosity such as Phil's Tenacious, Chain L chain lube, 90wt gear oil, etc. Anything heavier such as grease tends to slow the teeth from engaging and lighter tends to seep through the seals. I've done the complete disassembly/clean/re-assemble deal and is a PITA trying to count and put all the little ball bearings in place and not much better than the flush and lube method.
#6
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I'd make the options a) remove flush and relube , or b) just replace ..
given, as you say, : "It's about 20 years old" ...
Freehub drivers separate from the hubshell (except for low/least cost bike's parts) ...
....
given, as you say, : "It's about 20 years old" ...
Freehub drivers separate from the hubshell (except for low/least cost bike's parts) ...
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-01-19 at 10:54 AM.
#7
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might be time to get a new replacement wheel, general bike shop repair wheel ..
#8
Blamester
[QUOTE=BCDrums;20909114]I'm a do-less-work guy too. Whenever I am repacking the hub bearings, I remove the freehub body and lube it. For me, this means peeling back the rubber seal and dripping a little 30w oil into it. I spin it to distribute the oil and listen. When it begins to sound wet, I'm done.
BTW, what do you mean that the freehubs is "sticky"?
Less work, more riding.
This to begin and see how you get on. Most likely all you need to do.
BTW, what do you mean that the freehubs is "sticky"?
Less work, more riding.
This to begin and see how you get on. Most likely all you need to do.
#9
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Ditto. You can also soak the freehub in Odorless Mineral Spirits after removing the rubber seal. Spin the hub around every few hours to loosen up the gunk. If you have access to an air compressor you can blow out the residual OMS to dry or just let it sit for a couple of days to dry. I've found that Shimano hubs like a lube roughly in the 90 weight viscosity such as Phil's Tenacious, Chain L chain lube, 90wt gear oil, etc. Anything heavier such as grease tends to slow the teeth from engaging and lighter tends to seep through the seals. I've done the complete disassembly/clean/re-assemble deal and is a PITA trying to count and put all the little ball bearings in place and not much better than the flush and lube method.
I'll add that on the various freewheels and FH bodies I have greased I've never had an issue with pawl hang up. But I only applied grease to the ball pathways and coated all else with Phil oil or equivalent. Same as I do with SA AW hubs Andy.
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#10
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Years ago I bought the shimano freehub tool so I could add a heavier spring for the pawls. The reason for the heavier spring is that I have a Freehub Daddy and use it to pump grease through the freehub body every 5k miles. I never have freehub problems.
If I were going to service mine today I would flush and oil because the 'Daddy' is no longer available.
If I were going to service mine today I would flush and oil because the 'Daddy' is no longer available.
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Morningstar and JA Stein both offered (still do?) grease injection tools for freewheels and FH Bodies. I've used both many times and sometimes they work less messily the other times. Always with Phil grease which is thinner then some and less prone to pawl stick. Not heard of the "Daddy" tool name though. Andy
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[QUOTE=Andrew R Stewart;20909561]Morningstar and JA Stein both offered (still do?).../QUOTE]
Andy, I don't think I have seen anything in a several years as my family could use a couple.
Andy, I don't think I have seen anything in a several years as my family could use a couple.
#15
Senior Member
Years ago I bought the shimano freehub tool so I could add a heavier spring for the pawls. The reason for the heavier spring is that I have a Freehub Daddy and use it to pump grease through the freehub body every 5k miles. I never have freehub problems.
If I were going to service mine today I would flush and oil because the 'Daddy' is no longer available.
If I were going to service mine today I would flush and oil because the 'Daddy' is no longer available.
#16
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[QUOTE=easyupbug;20910287]
https://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...eehub-flusher/
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After the solvent, I like to spray brake cleaner inside. It drives out the solvent and naturally evaporates quickly. Then the air.