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Useless and Worthless Tools

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Old 05-13-16, 01:22 PM
  #76  
joejack951
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Yeah, and they required a 3.5 mm hex for their Delta brakes. Got one of those?
You could probably jam a 9/64" (3.57mm) in there.
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Old 05-13-16, 01:55 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by FastJake
I must be the only person that builds wheels with the Park SW-7 triangle spoke wrench. I have two "dedicated" spoke wrenches that work much better on really tight spokes (final tensioning). But for me the SW-7 is easier to add a full turn or two to every spoke.

Worthless tools? The Park chainring bolt holder. I bent mine up pretty bad the first time I ever tried using it on a tough chainring bolt that would turn but wouldn't loosen. Any tool that isn't as strong as my hand is pretty lousy.



I need a pair of these for my 600 headset! I used normal wrenches very carefully with a rag underneath, but would like to have the correct tool.
Originally Posted by bikemig
+ 1, I'd like that special tool for my 600 headset as well, lol.

Count me as another. Darn 600 headset gets hand tightened since I cant get the star nut tight enough.
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Old 05-13-16, 02:11 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by joejack951
You could probably jam a 9/64" (3.57mm) in there.
Yeah, you probably could but would any Campy owner ever stoop to such a low makeshift? For shame!
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Old 05-13-16, 02:15 PM
  #79  
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Chainbreaker from Wal-Mart.
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Old 05-13-16, 03:30 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Yeah, you probably could but would any Campy owner ever stoop to such a low makeshift? For shame!
I was going to add something to that effect. As if a Campy owner would even own Imperial size tools!
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Old 05-13-16, 03:30 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by hambogger
Chainbreaker from Wal-Mart.
Good one. I snapped mine on the first use attempt.
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Old 05-13-16, 08:08 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by asmac
My brother-in-law.
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Old 05-13-16, 08:28 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Miele Man
Park USED to have a good warranty. However I'll no longer buy a Park tool unless it's the ONLY tool made for the job. The Park warranty sucks and they refused to replace two tools i have that broke in use.

A warranty is only as good as the company's willingness to stand behind it. My experience is that Park does everything it can to get out of a warranty replacement of a tool. Other's may have had better luck but I've blacklisted Park tools as far as any of my future purchases go.

Cheers
I've had jsut the opposit experience. I lost a pad on my work stand, and asked if they had a replacement. They sent me a whole new fitting, no questions asked.
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Old 05-14-16, 12:46 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by techsensei
That's awesome, but the only thing that does is get you a new but same crappy tool (in the case of the chainring bolt tool).


No, when you return a tool to a Performance Store, you get your choice of Tool Exchange, or Store Credit, or Cash Back (I don't know if a receipt is required for Cash Back, for Exchange or Store Credit the receipt is not required).

Tools wear out with use, no matter how high the initial quality is/was. It's nice to know that I won't have to pay for a replacement wrench (unless I lose it). I have some U.S. Made Craftsman hand tools that date to almost 45 years ago when I bought them new from Sears Stores. Over the years, some wrench and socket sizes have been worn-out, broken, or sprung several times, while others are still like new. It's all about how much you them them, and how hard.

Bicycle cone wrenches are much thinner (and weaker) than mechanics wrenches. I expect the life of a cone wrench to be shorter than a regular mechanic's wrench. I wore-out, broke, or sprung several inexpensive cone wrenches (replacing the entire set when it happened) before I bought my first set of Park Tool cone wrenches, and haven't worn-out, broken, or sprung one since.

Last edited by RoadGuy; 05-14-16 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 05-14-16, 11:37 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by RoadGuy
No, when you return a tool to a Performance Store, you get your choice of Tool Exchange, or Store Credit, or Cash Back (I don't know if a receipt is required for Cash Back, for Exchange or Store Credit the receipt is not required).
That's cool if they do that; I just assumed it would only be an exchange for the identical product.

Tools wear out with use, no matter how high the initial quality is/was.
Tool wear is a given, no question

Bicycle cone wrenches are much thinner (and weaker) than mechanics wrenches. I expect the life of a cone wrench to be shorter than a regular mechanic's wrench
On that note, I can't tell you how many people pick up a cone wrench here at the co-op and want to use it in place of a regular wrench.

Last edited by techsensei; 05-14-16 at 10:10 PM.
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Old 05-14-16, 12:31 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by melloveloyellow

Got these decades ago for my Shimano 600 headsets. I've never encountered another headset I could use them on.
.
I have a matching headset, but no tools.
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Old 05-14-16, 12:34 PM
  #87  
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That hammer is for NASA.
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Old 05-14-16, 12:38 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
Count me as another. Darn 600 headset gets hand tightened since I cant get the star nut tight enough.
Be careful if it loosens on a fast downhill it can cause wheel shimmy and wipe you out.
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Old 05-14-16, 01:03 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Yeah, and they required a 3.5 mm hex for their Delta brakes. Got one of those?
Well, actually...



--
Ragnar
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Old 05-14-16, 01:03 PM
  #90  
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Superlight aluminum chain breakers .

I gave a friend a decent steel chain tool to take on a tour of southern Argentina, He found an aluminum one and went weight weenie .

When he needed a chain break repaired the tool broke, immediately, and so had to figure out the spanish phrase to get a Nail

and used a Nail An a Rock to try to get the bike fixed again..
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Old 05-14-16, 01:14 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by modelmartin
Don't know how you could ruin a screwdriver on aluminum cups. I simply haven't had an issue. Maybe I do it artfully enough.
No, but you will mar aluminum cups if you use a screwdriver, and you can ruin your screwdriver using it to drive out steel cups.
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Old 05-14-16, 01:36 PM
  #92  
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I make about half tools in my workshop himself hands. For example- whip to the hold cassette, BB and Cassete tool upgraded simply weld left crank.
I make that because nice tools very expensive in my country. A buy cheap tool that's about drop money in trash.
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Old 05-16-16, 09:28 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by rmfnla
Maybe it's the Corolla that's useless and worthless...
Not a fan? YRMV. I drive in Boston, MA on a daily basis. Try potholes, crazy drivers and contact parking. Been rear ended 4 times. The good car is not my regular commuter. 165,000 miles, works well. Allows for " other things" in my budget. Oh, and just recently got 2 daughters up to speed on driving. Start there. And I dislike making interest payments on a depreciating assets.
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Old 05-16-16, 09:57 AM
  #94  
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Just teasing; Corolla is the original "Smart" car...
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Old 06-08-16, 01:07 PM
  #95  
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I had the opportunity to use a Park crown race puller, CRP-2, last night. Talk about overkill. The tool weighs more than an average frame. It takes at least three hands to hold it, the fork, and to position it on the fork to pull the crown race off. Then it has a big honking handle to turn to pull the race off. All it needs if a flick of the wrist, and knob would do fine. By the time you get it on the fork, and pull the race, you could just pop it off with a razor blade, or a thin screw driver. And it's pretty expensive too.
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Old 06-08-16, 01:53 PM
  #96  
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BB-cradle-style bike stands like this are the worst. Even at $35 delivered it's overpriced.

It takes an annoying amount of time to bolt the bike into the BB-cradle, and the clamp on the downtube arm is not big enough for your average modern MTB.

For just a few more dollars, one can get a clamp-type stand; although the build quality will be similarly low, at least it will be much more usable until it breaks. If you use it gently and/or rarely, it may well last a lifetime.
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Old 06-08-16, 02:33 PM
  #97  
techsensei
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Originally Posted by leob1
I had the opportunity to use a Park crown race puller, CRP-2, last night. Talk about overkill. The tool weighs more than an average frame. It takes at least three hands to hold it, the fork, and to position it on the fork to pull the crown race off. Then it has a big honking handle to turn to pull the race off. All it needs if a flick of the wrist, and knob would do fine. By the time you get it on the fork, and pull the race, you could just pop it off with a razor blade, or a thin screw driver. And it's pretty expensive too.
It has to be tons better than the CRP-1. My beef with that one is that the handle is too small/short. I cannot get enough leverage on it to remove particularly tight crown races. Never mind that the jaws are thin and weak and bend under pressure. I used a different puller at another shop; it worked like a slide hammer. I don't know who made it, but it was great.
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Old 06-12-16, 02:14 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by leob1
No one has mentioned those round spoke wrenches. They do a wonderful job of rounding off spoke nipples.
That's what they're for; it keeps pranksters from messing with your wheels.

Frankly, I'm about ready to commission a set of nipples made from AUS8. The weight can't hurt as much as the drag from not being able to turn the ones I need to to finish truing because they're rounded off by crappy "spoke wrenches."
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Old 06-12-16, 06:22 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by leob1
I had the opportunity to use a Park crown race puller, CRP-2, last night. Talk about overkill. The tool weighs more than an average frame. It takes at least three hands to hold it, the fork, and to position it on the fork to pull the crown race off. Then it has a big honking handle to turn to pull the race off. All it needs if a flick of the wrist, and knob would do fine. By the time you get it on the fork, and pull the race, you could just pop it off with a razor blade, or a thin screw driver. And it's pretty expensive too.
Remember, this is intended as a professional shop tool, not a home mechanics tool, so it's expected to be used on a daily basis. Some crown races/base plates do pop off easily but many on steel or alloy steerer can be very tight. Also, I don't know I'd attack a carbon fork with a screwdriver or razor blade.
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Old 06-12-16, 09:22 AM
  #100  
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I have a set of Performance cone wrenches that useless, they are soft metal, why would a wrench not be hardened steel?
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