Useless and Worthless Tools
#76
Senior Member
#77
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,611
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10955 Post(s)
Liked 7,484 Times
in
4,186 Posts
I must be the only person that builds wheels with the Park SW-7 triangle spoke wrench. I have two "dedicated" spoke wrenches that work much better on really tight spokes (final tensioning). But for me the SW-7 is easier to add a full turn or two to every spoke.
Worthless tools? The Park chainring bolt holder. I bent mine up pretty bad the first time I ever tried using it on a tough chainring bolt that would turn but wouldn't loosen. Any tool that isn't as strong as my hand is pretty lousy.
I need a pair of these for my 600 headset! I used normal wrenches very carefully with a rag underneath, but would like to have the correct tool.
Worthless tools? The Park chainring bolt holder. I bent mine up pretty bad the first time I ever tried using it on a tough chainring bolt that would turn but wouldn't loosen. Any tool that isn't as strong as my hand is pretty lousy.
I need a pair of these for my 600 headset! I used normal wrenches very carefully with a rag underneath, but would like to have the correct tool.
Count me as another. Darn 600 headset gets hand tightened since I cant get the star nut tight enough.
#78
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
#80
Senior Member
#81
Senior Member
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,489
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1182 Post(s)
Liked 833 Times
in
435 Posts
Park USED to have a good warranty. However I'll no longer buy a Park tool unless it's the ONLY tool made for the job. The Park warranty sucks and they refused to replace two tools i have that broke in use.
A warranty is only as good as the company's willingness to stand behind it. My experience is that Park does everything it can to get out of a warranty replacement of a tool. Other's may have had better luck but I've blacklisted Park tools as far as any of my future purchases go.
Cheers
A warranty is only as good as the company's willingness to stand behind it. My experience is that Park does everything it can to get out of a warranty replacement of a tool. Other's may have had better luck but I've blacklisted Park tools as far as any of my future purchases go.
Cheers
#84
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,331
Bikes: 89 Schwinn 754, 90 Trek 1100, 93 Trek 2300, 94 Trek 1400 (under construction), 94 Trek 930, 97 Trek 1400
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
No, when you return a tool to a Performance Store, you get your choice of Tool Exchange, or Store Credit, or Cash Back (I don't know if a receipt is required for Cash Back, for Exchange or Store Credit the receipt is not required).
Tools wear out with use, no matter how high the initial quality is/was. It's nice to know that I won't have to pay for a replacement wrench (unless I lose it). I have some U.S. Made Craftsman hand tools that date to almost 45 years ago when I bought them new from Sears Stores. Over the years, some wrench and socket sizes have been worn-out, broken, or sprung several times, while others are still like new. It's all about how much you them them, and how hard.
Bicycle cone wrenches are much thinner (and weaker) than mechanics wrenches. I expect the life of a cone wrench to be shorter than a regular mechanic's wrench. I wore-out, broke, or sprung several inexpensive cone wrenches (replacing the entire set when it happened) before I bought my first set of Park Tool cone wrenches, and haven't worn-out, broken, or sprung one since.
Last edited by RoadGuy; 05-14-16 at 12:55 AM.
#85
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 766
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Tools wear out with use, no matter how high the initial quality is/was.
Bicycle cone wrenches are much thinner (and weaker) than mechanics wrenches. I expect the life of a cone wrench to be shorter than a regular mechanic's wrench
Last edited by techsensei; 05-14-16 at 10:10 PM.
#86
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
I have a matching headset, but no tools.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#88
Senior Member
#90
Banned
Superlight aluminum chain breakers .
I gave a friend a decent steel chain tool to take on a tour of southern Argentina, He found an aluminum one and went weight weenie .
When he needed a chain break repaired the tool broke, immediately, and so had to figure out the spanish phrase to get a Nail
and used a Nail An a Rock to try to get the bike fixed again..
I gave a friend a decent steel chain tool to take on a tour of southern Argentina, He found an aluminum one and went weight weenie .
When he needed a chain break repaired the tool broke, immediately, and so had to figure out the spanish phrase to get a Nail
and used a Nail An a Rock to try to get the bike fixed again..
#91
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
#92
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Ukraine Kharkov
Posts: 160
Bikes: CUBE Acid 29er, Salsa El Mariachi SSGT Avalanche X 2009, MMVZ Minsk 1980, Trek 4300 custom, HVZ Ukraina 111-411, Cannondale Trail 5
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I make about half tools in my workshop himself hands. For example- whip to the hold cassette, BB and Cassete tool upgraded simply weld left crank.
I make that because nice tools very expensive in my country. A buy cheap tool that's about drop money in trash.
I make that because nice tools very expensive in my country. A buy cheap tool that's about drop money in trash.
#93
Senior Member
Not a fan? YRMV. I drive in Boston, MA on a daily basis. Try potholes, crazy drivers and contact parking. Been rear ended 4 times. The good car is not my regular commuter. 165,000 miles, works well. Allows for " other things" in my budget. Oh, and just recently got 2 daughters up to speed on driving. Start there. And I dislike making interest payments on a depreciating assets.
#94
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Posts: 6,301
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 273 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
9 Posts
Just teasing; Corolla is the original "Smart" car...
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
#95
Senior Member
I had the opportunity to use a Park crown race puller, CRP-2, last night. Talk about overkill. The tool weighs more than an average frame. It takes at least three hands to hold it, the fork, and to position it on the fork to pull the crown race off. Then it has a big honking handle to turn to pull the race off. All it needs if a flick of the wrist, and knob would do fine. By the time you get it on the fork, and pull the race, you could just pop it off with a razor blade, or a thin screw driver. And it's pretty expensive too.
#96
Keepin it Wheel
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,245
Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,427 Times
in
2,534 Posts
BB-cradle-style bike stands like this are the worst. Even at $35 delivered it's overpriced.
It takes an annoying amount of time to bolt the bike into the BB-cradle, and the clamp on the downtube arm is not big enough for your average modern MTB.
For just a few more dollars, one can get a clamp-type stand; although the build quality will be similarly low, at least it will be much more usable until it breaks. If you use it gently and/or rarely, it may well last a lifetime.
It takes an annoying amount of time to bolt the bike into the BB-cradle, and the clamp on the downtube arm is not big enough for your average modern MTB.
For just a few more dollars, one can get a clamp-type stand; although the build quality will be similarly low, at least it will be much more usable until it breaks. If you use it gently and/or rarely, it may well last a lifetime.
#97
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 766
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I had the opportunity to use a Park crown race puller, CRP-2, last night. Talk about overkill. The tool weighs more than an average frame. It takes at least three hands to hold it, the fork, and to position it on the fork to pull the crown race off. Then it has a big honking handle to turn to pull the race off. All it needs if a flick of the wrist, and knob would do fine. By the time you get it on the fork, and pull the race, you could just pop it off with a razor blade, or a thin screw driver. And it's pretty expensive too.
#98
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Stephenville TX
Posts: 3,697
Bikes: 2010 Trek 7100
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 697 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Frankly, I'm about ready to commission a set of nipples made from AUS8. The weight can't hurt as much as the drag from not being able to turn the ones I need to to finish truing because they're rounded off by crappy "spoke wrenches."
#99
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
I had the opportunity to use a Park crown race puller, CRP-2, last night. Talk about overkill. The tool weighs more than an average frame. It takes at least three hands to hold it, the fork, and to position it on the fork to pull the crown race off. Then it has a big honking handle to turn to pull the race off. All it needs if a flick of the wrist, and knob would do fine. By the time you get it on the fork, and pull the race, you could just pop it off with a razor blade, or a thin screw driver. And it's pretty expensive too.
#100
a77impala
I have a set of Performance cone wrenches that useless, they are soft metal, why would a wrench not be hardened steel?