Refitting head badge to Grubb frame
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Refitting head badge to Grubb frame
Before I attempt this I thought I’d reach out 1st.
FH Grubb Steel frame all refurbed and head badge re-enamelled beautifully by a local artist and ready to refit.
I was going to pop rivet it back on and then stopped to think and consult.
The holes in the head tube are 2mm dia and don’t go back very far before they hit the steerer that (obviously) rotates behind.
I don’t want jam the whole thing.
I was thinking - glue 2mm brass threaded bar (2 pack epoxy) into the holes and then cut to right length and secure badge with a brass domed nut to finish it off?
Thoughts from someone who’s done it, got the t-shirt so to speak.
Tony
FH Grubb Steel frame all refurbed and head badge re-enamelled beautifully by a local artist and ready to refit.
I was going to pop rivet it back on and then stopped to think and consult.
The holes in the head tube are 2mm dia and don’t go back very far before they hit the steerer that (obviously) rotates behind.
I don’t want jam the whole thing.
I was thinking - glue 2mm brass threaded bar (2 pack epoxy) into the holes and then cut to right length and secure badge with a brass domed nut to finish it off?
Thoughts from someone who’s done it, got the t-shirt so to speak.
Tony
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2mm = .0787 = 5/64
https://www.lincolnmachine.com/tap_drill_chart.html
You can tap that at 3-48 and use screws.
Probably can even get them at a "real" local hardware store think "miniature" machine screws. Too long file it off inside the head tube after installation.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0151951
https://www.lincolnmachine.com/tap_drill_chart.html
You can tap that at 3-48 and use screws.
Probably can even get them at a "real" local hardware store think "miniature" machine screws. Too long file it off inside the head tube after installation.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0151951
Last edited by dedhed; 01-14-20 at 06:38 PM.
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I think Freddie Grubb did in fact pop-rivet some of his headbadges on. They were pretty tiny rivets IIRC, of which I have never seen before. Personally, I'd do dedhed 's suggestion, or use U-drive screws.
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Glue it on, and glue rivet heads in place for the authentic look.
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On an old Raleigh, I used small brass rivets, and sheared off the backside of the pin with a curved wood chisel, which also bent the stub over to secure the rivet.
...after reading that, it might not make sense.
...after reading that, it might not make sense.
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...the simplest attachment (and it works very well and seems to last a long time) is to glue in some blind rivet heads you find appealing, and then use 3M Trim Tape. ( A very small piece will do the job.) That's how I used to do it, but lately I've experimented with small brass rivets. There's a whole current thread on this here.
You're correct about the limited space between head tube and steerer. Which makes it a little more complicated to use something like a pop rivet.
You're correct about the limited space between head tube and steerer. Which makes it a little more complicated to use something like a pop rivet.
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...Had the same problem getting a Gillott frame refinished - the bike shop fixed the headbadge with a double sided sticky pad. It looked very wrong, and the headbadge draws a lot of attention. Another bike guy I know still had original rivets and did it for me, but you can still get the real thing, on ebay.uk from veloheaven - just search 'head badge rivets'. I'd post the URL but don't have enough posts.
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just ordered 2mm brass rivets.
Thanks to everyone who posted - what a great forum.
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