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Modernizing a Classic: 1984 Trek 760

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Modernizing a Classic: 1984 Trek 760

Old 08-08-19, 04:22 PM
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ridethecliche
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Originally Posted by Cycle Tourist
Thanks. I suppose your right about the 520. I'm not a modern bike guy. I'd more likely be looking for a Nishiki, Miyata, Univega, Panasonic type sport bike. I see them on CL sometimes for 1 or 1:50. The 520 is a bit sadate even for me. I prefer my Klein Performance.
I like technology.

But I also really like this frame. It's the first bike I raced on. Id like to enjoy it again.
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Old 08-08-19, 05:36 PM
  #52  
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I use to own an '85 760. It was an amazing bike! Still kicking myself for selling it during an ill advised phase of "Swedish Death Cleaning."

Anyway, I believe the '84 and '85 frames were pretty much the same in terms of geometry and clearance. Mine definitely did NOT have room for 32 mm tires. 28mm was as wide as I could fit. I also tried some 650b wheels on it and found that it did NOT have enough room between the chainstays or under the fork crown for 650b with 38 mm tires. 650b x 32mm would probably work, but then you'd have a pretty low bottom bracket, and tires that narrow sort of defeat the purpose of converting to 650b.

I recommend making that bike ridable with its original fork and whatever drive train makes you happy. Trek 760s are very special.
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Old 08-26-19, 12:40 AM
  #53  
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So I'm going to go ahead and order one of those Innicycle headset adapter thingamajiggys that I posted about earlier.

What's the verdict on mixing and matching silver/black for seatposts/stems/bars? I'd like to avoid the roadie police coming after me in full force!
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Old 08-26-19, 03:19 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
What's the verdict on mixing and matching silver/black for seatposts/stems/bars? I'd like to avoid the roadie police coming after me in full force!
That's just a good way to get back into shape I guess
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Old 08-26-19, 11:25 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
I'm kicking myself for not just parting out my cannondale now. I think the DA 7800 would have been pretty great on this.
I just picked up a CAAD9 frameset for little money. Maybe the person you sold it to saw the opportunity to part it out and made some cash?
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Old 08-26-19, 12:16 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
So I'm going to go ahead and order one of those Innicycle headset adapter thingamajiggys that I posted about earlier.

What's the verdict on mixing and matching silver/black for seatposts/stems/bars? I'd like to avoid the roadie police coming after me in full force!
Just yesterday I rode my +/- '84 760 build with stock fork. Black and silver components ;"\

Hammer down 35 mile with a mix of road surface, some really rough with busted asphalt. The bike amazes me and even with clinchers (Veloflex Masters 25) on 32 spoke deeper Mavic CX30 rims. Love this bike.

The build is not the lightest means but super mannered, holds a line very well in tight fast corners. Bonus the whisper quiet road sucker, unlike any modern carbon frame / wheels and angry bees sounding hubs.

Interesting enough, few weeks back on a Thurs night fast group ride, I swapped rides with another. Rode his Felt carbon, (don't recall model), we share similar size but I could've used a but of saddle adjustment. Anyways, we hammered on the same route as above. I was pounded to punishment on the Felt but clearly had a boost on the climbs. Contrary, the fellow on my 760 was grinning. He couldn't believe how fast and comfy this 35 year old steel bike and weighing 7-8 lbs more could better tackle the rougher portions.

I've watched many a rider on modern carbon 'slow down', elevate off the saddle in the rough road. So now these same riders whine about how harsh their modern carbon ride and now want the latest frames with clearance for fattie tires.

I suggest to keep the stock fork but to pour the money in a super wheelset. Consider premium tires in any type - clincher, tubeless to tubular.
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Old 08-26-19, 04:44 PM
  #57  
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I think the purple frame would look better with silver accents instead of black ones, no?

Originally Posted by HarborBandS
I just picked up a CAAD9 frameset for little money. Maybe the person you sold it to saw the opportunity to part it out and made some cash?
I wouldn't be surprised to be honest.

I really should have done all this over the winter/spring since I had a fair amount of time. I'd been kicking the can down to sell the CAAD9 for years. Truth be told, I really didn't want to part with it ya know.

Originally Posted by crank_addict
Just yesterday I rode my +/- '84 760 build with stock fork. Black and silver components ;"\

Hammer down 35 mile with a mix of road surface, some really rough with busted asphalt. The bike amazes me and even with clinchers (Veloflex Masters 25) on 32 spoke deeper Mavic CX30 rims. Love this bike.

The build is not the lightest means but super mannered, holds a line very well in tight fast corners. Bonus the whisper quiet road sucker, unlike any modern carbon frame / wheels and angry bees sounding hubs.

Interesting enough, few weeks back on a Thurs night fast group ride, I swapped rides with another. Rode his Felt carbon, (don't recall model), we share similar size but I could've used a but of saddle adjustment. Anyways, we hammered on the same route as above. I was pounded to punishment on the Felt but clearly had a boost on the climbs. Contrary, the fellow on my 760 was grinning. He couldn't believe how fast and comfy this 35 year old steel bike and weighing 7-8 lbs more could better tackle the rougher portions.

I've watched many a rider on modern carbon 'slow down', elevate off the saddle in the rough road. So now these same riders whine about how harsh their modern carbon ride and now want the latest frames with clearance for fattie tires.

I suggest to keep the stock fork but to pour the money in a super wheelset. Consider premium tires in any type - clincher, tubeless to tubular.
I totally believe it.

I have some decent wheels for the bike, but may end up getting something else down the line.

I'm actually keeping the stock fork. I am planning on swapping to a part that someone on bike forums came up with and update to a modern bar/stem combo. I have a bunch of black stems sitting at home, so I'll likely end up getting a silver one when the fit is set up if I'm so inclined. I feel like keeping the 'front end' silver will pay homage to the quill stem setup this bike came with!
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Old 10-14-19, 10:03 PM
  #58  
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Any recs for a basic tool kit for putting a bike together or should i just piece together the few things I'll need? The one I had in college is MIA.

I have a lot of tools for working on cars so I should have the bases covered, but I should have things like a chain whip, headset and bottom bracket tools, etc etc etc. I might just take the bike to a shop to have the cables etc done since there's a good local shop and I think I paid dues for the university affiliate and get a discount there. I'd like to be able to ride the damn thing this year lol. It's much warmer here in NJ than it was in MA.

Or if any one's a local... I have pizza and beer I can offer! You can also check out this awesome headset adapter I got from the forum member mentioned above. I'm pretty excited!
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Old 10-15-19, 07:37 AM
  #59  
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I use a cheap chainwhip that came with an old tool set I got from Nashbar when building my first bike (2004-ish). For bottom bracket tools and just about anything else that's bike-specific, you can't really go wrong with anything from Park Tools. I've bought one dud (for an obsolete ISIS bottom bracket) but other than that, everything else works quite well. I tend to just buy what I need when I need it as there is too much overlap in their bigger sets with tools I already own for automotive work (which I'm sure are nicer than what they include).

For headset and press-fit bottom brackets, I use my automotive wheel bearing set to press the cups in. You can get away with threaded rod, matching nuts, and some sockets/washers for a cheap kit. The forces are fairly low (relative to big front wheel drive bearings). Park Tool's headset cup remover works nicely for disassembly, though I know people have made their own version of that tool.

For cables, a rotary tool with cutoff wheels is my choice for trimming housing. I have a pair of Knipex diagonal cutters for trimming cables. They cut clean without distorting the twisted cable.

You'll want a good hacksaw and a steerer tube cutting guide if you plan to trim the innicycle conversion.
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Old 10-15-19, 08:14 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by CV-6
I think you would be better served running fatter tires, but I am pretty sure you are going to be limited by the frame.
I've gotten 28c on an '86 560. It's tight but works fine.
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Old 10-15-19, 09:31 AM
  #61  
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I bought a PO project bike that is a 760. Haven't done anything with it yet but plan on putting Superbe Pro on it. It is an 1984 model. It does of the socketed seat cluster.

WP_20141102_005, on Flickr

What it came with was a Giant unicrown fork! Went looking for an original but they are few and far between. Found one that was bent, bent it back to 38mm offset. What is unique about it is the crown. It has the sword feature that was not commonly used.

P1030005, on Flickr
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Old 10-15-19, 10:22 AM
  #62  
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I believe there is a tools thread on here someplace with recommendations, If you have a co-op anywhere near most all the use of tools maybe for a small fee but using a shop as you mentioned to get it cabled up and checked over isn't a bad way to go if time is a factor. I hope some pictures are coming soon of this build

I get allot done with Y hex wrenches, metric box end open end and a large adjustable wrench but for things like BB, pedals and cable cutting its good to have the bike specific tools
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Old 10-15-19, 10:26 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by SJX426
What is unique about it is the crown. It has the sword feature that was not commonly used.

P1030005, on Flickr
The first couple years of production, a Cinelli CC sloping crown was used on that model. Later production used the flat Tange "Trident" crown pictured above.
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Old 10-18-19, 09:51 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by ryansu
I believe there is a tools thread on here someplace with recommendations, If you have a co-op anywhere near most all the use of tools maybe for a small fee but using a shop as you mentioned to get it cabled up and checked over isn't a bad way to go if time is a factor. I hope some pictures are coming soon of this build

I get allot done with Y hex wrenches, metric box end open end and a large adjustable wrench but for things like BB, pedals and cable cutting its good to have the bike specific tools
Trust me... I'm trying!

I'm a first year resident and residency doesn't leave time for much... I finally get to leave the hospital and do something more outpatient based for a couple of months starting nov, so hopefully I'll get to start up in the next couple of weeks. I might just buy a small toolkit or so to start off just doing things piecemeal.
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Old 10-19-19, 01:36 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney
OP, you asked about "fork offset" and "rake". Yes, what Trek is calling offset is simply rake. You can see it on the diagram.

Edit: but it is worth checking the actual rake on your fork. Those catalogs typically are printed long before the bikes are made and changes often happen.

Ben
I’ve found the Trek forks to be pretty accurate, of the few I measured. But if this 760 is actually made of 531P (very thin-wall tubes) it is probably seriously intended for racing, and hence should have rather tight wheel clearances. Not sure it can readily be made into anything that isn’t also racy.
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Old 10-19-19, 08:00 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
Trust me... I'm trying!

I'm a first year resident and residency doesn't leave time for much... I finally get to leave the hospital and do something more outpatient based for a couple of months starting nov, so hopefully I'll get to start up in the next couple of weeks. I might just buy a small toolkit or so to start off just doing things piecemeal.
Big toolkits have a bunch of tools you wont need.
Smaller toolkit?...I'm not sure.

Just write down what you need and search amazon. They have quality and crap all right next to one another and pick what you want for the price.

That frame is great, cool that you are bringing it back.
The innicycle headset will open up a lot of options for you in terms of handlebars for comfort(compact are nicer than traditional for me).
Just get the widest size tire that clearly fits for comfort. Wider tires have more to do with comfort.
Buy quality tires. Supple tires will be light and fast. They can change the feel of a bike.
Get a black cockpit or a silver cockpit. Either is fine. Perhaps not both though. It's tough to get quality silver bars and stem. They are available, but not many options and not usually light or cheap.


Enjoy the process!
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Old 04-02-20, 12:45 PM
  #67  
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Thanks for all the input!

With everything going on, I think things are on the backburner from a time perspective. I might try working on things during down time and on days off. I think I have almost all the parts. I can start up with the group etc and start things off. I'm excited. This is going to be a fun build.

I just bought another road bike which happens to be 11 speed though. Kinda unsure what to do now because this bike is 10 speed. The 11 speed bike was a steal but now I'll have two incompatible systems... I did find a set of rollers recently so I can actually use the steel bike for training without feeling bad about it.
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Old 04-02-20, 01:31 PM
  #68  
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Just curious, what is the worry about compatibility between bikes? If you use 11 speed compatible freehubs on both, you can share wheels easily enough with a cassette swap. What else are you looking to share? Maybe cassettes, which I kinda get but those aren't all that expensive especially for 10 speed ones. 10 to 11 speed drivetrains really aren't that big of a change. I doubt you'll miss it if you appreciate riding vintage feel. That feeling will overwhelm any shortcomings in the groupset in my experience. My vintage steel Trek has 11 speed 105 vs. 11 speed Campy Chorus (my preferred ergonomics) on my main road bike and I still enjoy riding the Trek.
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Old 04-05-20, 07:21 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Cycle Tourist
Jethin has a point. Whatever money you spend on a "racing" frame will never make much of a difference. Short chainstays and wheelbase and an upright geometry will do you in.
Turning a hybrid or sport bike into a tourer will be much easier, cheaper and more satisfying in the long run. Wider tires and a longer wheelbase will give you the comfort you crave. Here's a used Nashbar hybrid conversion that ended up costing a couple hundred.(minus the saddle).
Nice bike. Looks familiar.
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Old 04-05-20, 10:44 PM
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You have referenced and quoted yourself...?
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Old 04-09-20, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by joejack951
Just curious, what is the worry about compatibility between bikes? If you use 11 speed compatible freehubs on both, you can share wheels easily enough with a cassette swap. What else are you looking to share? Maybe cassettes, which I kinda get but those aren't all that expensive especially for 10 speed ones. 10 to 11 speed drivetrains really aren't that big of a change. I doubt you'll miss it if you appreciate riding vintage feel. That feeling will overwhelm any shortcomings in the groupset in my experience. My vintage steel Trek has 11 speed 105 vs. 11 speed Campy Chorus (my preferred ergonomics) on my main road bike and I still enjoy riding the Trek.
I came into the entire process hoping to have 10 speed everything. I sold my caad9 with 10 speed DA and ended up buying a used Ghost Nivolet with 11 speed 105 for a song.

I have 3 sets of wheels and I really doubt that the ones that have 10 speed cassettes on them right now are compatible at all with 11 speed stuff since they're all from like 2006-2010 haha. If I end up buying a set of nice wheels, I'll likely get them for the ghost. I doubt my trek is going to be my 'go fast' bike, so I guess you're right that it's a non issue. It'll likely be 10/11 speed compatible so if I ever do want to swap cassettes in the future, I guess it'll be an option then.

The drivetrain I bought for the trek is recent 10 speed ultegra. I don't think it'll really be an issue to have two bikes with different drivetrains on them.
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Old 05-10-20, 03:30 PM
  #72  
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I ended up impulse buying a carbon fork earlier today that I'm thinking of canceling and using the innicycle headset instead.

This is the fork I bought: https://www.wiggle.com/columbus-mini...sku=5360459000

One of the potential issues I'm seeing is that the rake of the stock fork is 38mm and this is 45mm. Will that really have a huge negative issue on the handling?

The other thing is that this isn't going to be my primary bike and it's not a race bike so I don't know if it's worth swapping forks to shave some weight, but my bigger concern was stiffness in the front end which would likely improve with the innicycle and modern stem/bars as well right?

Any help? Indecision strikes!

Last edited by ridethecliche; 05-10-20 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 06-04-20, 06:52 PM
  #73  
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Just got the bike stripped down and used fluid film in there. Should have let the can warm up first! Oops. And of course, someone had grabbed the tube off the can without my realizing it so i didn't have a way to spray directly into the tubes... so i ended up spraying a lot more than I needed to in there I bet. Here's to an extra few grams in the frameset!

I don't really have to be super worried about making sure everything is coated right? I tried to spray through the small drain holes but didn't have a straw to do it with. Managed to get into most of the other tubes and had some stuff come out the drain holes in many places. I had treated this frame with frame saver about 12 years ago and I'm doing this just for safe keeping so to speak.
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Old 06-04-20, 08:08 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
One of the potential issues I'm seeing is that the rake of the stock fork is 38mm and this is 45mm. Will that really have a huge negative issue on the handling?

The other thing is that this isn't going to be my primary bike and it's not a race bike so I don't know if it's worth swapping forks to shave some weight, but my bigger concern was stiffness in the front end which would likely improve with the innicycle and modern stem/bars as well right?

Any help? Indecision strikes!
The new fork will reduce the trail, and low trail is in fashion these days. 7mm is not going to change things that much! For reference, I adjusted the existing fork to increase the rake on my old Trek from 55mm to 70mm, decreasing the trail from 46mm to 31mm. The bike is still rideable with or without a handlebar bag, but rides better with one now.

You can play around with the geometry here:
Bicycle Trail Calculator | yojimg.net

I don't think you'll be able to tell the difference in "stiffness". You may not even tell the difference in handling. What makes you think a stiffer front end is a good thing anyway?
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Old 06-04-20, 10:58 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
Paul was also working at Trek at the time, and I built him a nice track frame:


In case it wasn't mentioned, thanks to the both of you for the cool stories. I appreciated them!
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