erebus.alyx

I'm setting out on a tour this December from Bariloche to Ushuaia. I have my route mapped out between both Ruta 40 and the Carretera Austral crossing the border from Argentina to Chile 4 times. My question is has anyone else completed a route similar to this? What recommendations would you make as far as places to spend time at and or some wisdom you could offer about this area of the globe? I am extremely excited and still anxious as I have never completed a trip to this distance before.Thank you,

djb

I always suggest to people to read recent trip journals to get up to date info on specific trips.
If you haven't heard of crazy guy on a bike, check it out, as you'll find numerous journals of this area, and will help be prepared.
Some folks here have ridden there and may chime in, but basically, read as much as you can.
Buenos suertes and have a great and safe trip

mev

I traveled between Bariloche and Ushuaia in 2017 as part of a longer ride (documented at scc2ush.com). After Puerto Montt it was a supported ride. However, a few general thoughts from my trip:

1. The Carretera Austral is definitely a highlight. Each year more parts are paved, so good to go before it changes completely.
2. The (pedestrian/bike-only) crossing at O'Higgins is one of the more interesting transits I've done.
3. We took a rest day at both El Chalten and Torres Del Paines. Both lived up to my expectations of great places to hike and otherwise explore.
4. Wind wasn't too bad on the Chile side and could come up with a fury after we left El Chalten. Fortunately more tailwinds than headwinds but even had some tailwinds that were surprisingly strong. We were on a supported ride so would ride no-matter what, but otherwise it doesn't hurt to have a spare day or two if you get weather-related issues.

mev

One additional thing while I think about it...

5. If you have a smart phone or tablet, get a copy of iOverlander as well as MAPs.ME. You will find some larger gaps in cell service itself. However, there are a lot of people trekking in that area and I found iOverlander to have a lot of useful points e.g. places to camp or additional information on ferry crossings. Because of the construction things like ferry locations or construction closures will change around and iOverlander tended to get updates. You won't necessarily have cell service for large parts but the open street maps shown by MAPs.ME work in those areas (but ignore their bike directions).

Have fun!

erebus.alyx

Thank you very much for the info!

djb

Erebus, I hope this trip does not fill you with Terror.
(yes, I am Canadian)

erebus.alyx

Ahh...You get it!

djb

Was the first thing i thought of seeing your name, but held off until now.

Unlike others who have toured in cold weather, ive only toured where the coldest was maybe a bit under 10c, but as someone who does commute down to -10 or -15c, at least I'm fairly aware of what clothes I need to be comfortable at x degrees celcius.
I've toured a bit in Latin America and would love one day to do what you are doing before geezerhood gets in the way, but I would highly recommend having a really good idea of temp extremes, and to know what various layers make the diff for your comfort-- everyone is different in this regard, but my experience shows that small things like a touque (A winter hat hey), or a good neckup/ buff thing, or warm wool socks, or gloves/mitts, can make all the difference.

Given how soon before you leave, you must have done proper research into what potential weather awaits you.

Oh, dish gloves in cold rain, loose enough for some gloves inside, can really save your ass, well your hands, from becoming inoperable unfeeling lumps at the ends of your arms in constant cold rain with a wind.

mev

A few weather-related notes:

1. The Carretera Austral is considerably wetter than the Argentinian side. Prior to going I'd read multiple cycling blogs including some of people complaining of repeated days of rain. That set my expectations somewhat low. I was thus pleasantly surprised that we had multiple rain showers but also drier periods.
2. Ruta 40 can have strong winds. We had one day we didn't set up tents until evening after they died down some.
3. By time we got to Torres Del Paine and further south, there were some days of rather cold rain and quite cold temperatures overall.
4. Also read in some cyclist blogs about the O'Higgins crossing occasionally closing for a day or two when ferries couldn't travel. We had good weather there but had built in contingency time just in case.

It was a bit of a fluke but a few weeks after we passed through, Villa Saint Lucia was hit with a massive mudslide that killed around a dozen. A combination of a lot of rain and a moraine failing upstream.

axolotl

I didn't bike the Carretera Austral, but I did tour in December in Chile & Argentina beginning in Puerto Montt, then over to Bariloche, then gradually going north and west in a zigzag route (mostly in Chile) ending in Temuco. Prior to beginning that tour, I spent a few days in southern Chile in and around Punta Arenas along the Straight of Magellan, arriving by plane there. Even that far south, it wasn't particularly cold, but the westerly wind down there was audible 24/7. I had normal temperatures in Punta Arenas (high of around 57F/14C). Up in the lake and volcano region (e.g. Puerto Montt, Bariloche, Valdivia, Temuco), temperatures were delightful (70s F/ 20s C) and unusually dry for December. The lake & volcano region of Chile & Argentina is one of the prettiest regions I've ever seen. On Dec. 14, 2020, there will be a total solar eclipse going through the northern part of that region (e.g. Pucon, Chile).

erebus.alyx

I did not even know there was going to be a Solar Eclipse. Freaking awesome! Thank you for the info.

djb

I guess no one else here read Tintin books when they were kids??
In the South American one in Peru, there was a dramatic solar eclipse that saved Tintin from being killed, I immediately thought of that book when you mentioned this axo....

erebus.alyx

Those that have rode this area before, have you encountered many other cyclist? Is camping as readily available as what I have read on some blogs and articles? Correct me if this is not true but I have read that dispersed camping is super easy to find.

mev

We were with a large group, but saw other cyclists every day or two. Sometimes multiple in a day.

I was on my own further north in Argentina and didn't have difficulties finding wild camping. This was where iOverlander came in helpful. Below two photos of sites I picked in part because I found them there. Small towns in Argentina (fewer further south) will also have municipal campgrounds. These were generally pretty good, though I did have an occasion or two where it was a Friday/Saturday night and locals came for their (loud) party.

Great little spot I wouldn't have found otherwise. A small gravel road departed from the main route and then went behind a short hill - so I was not much more than 100m from traffic but also shielded from noise/light. However, also had a nice overlook to lower areas below.

Essentially a campsite in bottom of a gravel pit, shielded from the wind. In Patagonia, but still north of Bariloche.

Campground in Chile north of Puerto Montt, another cyclist also stopped there...

Roadside construction site that gratefully allowed our larger group and some others to camp. Winds were so strong that we waited until sunset to set up tents. This photo take the following morning with calmer winds.

escii_35

TDF and Iceland are the only summer time rides I would recommend true rain pants.

Cherry season aka high season on the east slopes of the Andes brings out the crowds. The worst thing being: Empty campground at 6, cars show up 7-8, BBQ fires up 8-9, music at 10 and does to stop until 3 in the morning.

Argentinian drivers are an odd bunch they are not bad drivers but you may think you are in an F1 Vid. Talk to a rural Chilean about Argentinian driver :-).

djb

Erebus, here's some questions for you, re flights.
Where are you flying from, what legs \ transfers are there, and what range of flight costs are involved?

erebus.alyx

djb, I'm flying from California to Bariloche, Argentina but not directly. I have a stop in Buenos Aires. When I arrive in Ushuaia via bicycle I will not be heading directly home so as far as the price I paid it may be different for say someone heading back to the USA on a direct-ish route. I did quite a bit of shopping around months ahead of time and prices flying from California to Bariloche and Ushuaia back to the US ranged anywhere from 1300USD to 3000USD. I was able to secure a round trip ticket including my other destinations around for 1700USD.

djb

Thanks, I've never looked into Canada to Chile or Argentina flights simply because a trip for me isn't on the table now, but will stick that ish number in my head as a reference. I figure other options could be a flight to Santiago and then a bus a good chunk down, but these are bridges t to cross when I get to them hopefully one day.
Thanks again
Have you taken of vaccines, water filter stuff etc? You're leaving very soon so I imagine yes.
Oh, make a real effort to pick up Spanish, this alone makes a huge difference in traveling in Latin America.
Good last planning

erebus.alyx

Your photos are awesome and give me confidence in finding camping whilst in route south. Were you able to camp without a tent at all under the night sky without being eaten by mosquitos?

djb

this is a given, but especially because you will be doing two legs, your boxed bike will be being handled, put into a plane, taken out of a plane, and handled again--twice---so its really important that you read up and look at proper boxing techniques to protect your bike as much as you can.

along with the basics, take the time and box your bike up a few times, because if this is your first time doing it, or if you havent done it in a while, things are going to screw up.
Basically, try to pack it like new bikes arrive at a bike store, so that hard bits are not going to be going up against other hard bits, specifically your front wheel hub against the frame etc.

the best thing is to be friendly with a bike shop and have them save all the foam and plastic bits from a new bike, have them put them in the box so you can reuse them--also if you can see how a new bike is packed , youčll have a much better understanding of the logic of how stuff goes in.
One thing I do now is to tape some foam to the forks , that have a good solid fork protector in them to stop getting sqwershed by a sideways force, but the foam at bottom will give cushioning if and when the box is stacked vertically and banged downwards , putting a good force into your fork and headset, as chances are, it will be placed or dropped with the rear wheel up...

given the scope of your trip, its really worth being proactive, and getting the right techniques to pack your bike.
simply put, at all stages, imagine a large pile of suitcases stacked piled on top of your laying down bike box, so think of what will get pushed against what.

plan for the worst, but hope for the best

of course, you might be paying a store to box your bike, but its still really good to know how to do it properly, and I suggest keeping the small plastic fork brace, and rd protector with your on your trip, they weigh nothing, but make a real diff for the flight back, where chances are, you wont be able to source any.

cross fingers touch wood , you name it for boxed bike treatment. Its all luck of the draw, so do all you can do to minimize damage.