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Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos

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Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos

Old 11-01-19, 11:39 AM
  #7526  
bianchi4harley
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sounds a bit like my build.... found and scrounged parts to make a new bike. Looks good.
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Old 11-10-19, 04:51 PM
  #7527  
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Hereís my 1984 Trek 660 that was stripped down to bare metal for a clear powdercoat before building it back up with a Dura Ace group I found on CL for cheap.
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Old 11-10-19, 04:58 PM
  #7528  
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Originally Posted by JKohler View Post

Hereís my 1984 Trek 660 that was stripped down to bare metal for a clear powdercoat before building it back up with a Dura Ace group I found on CL for cheap.
Sinister!
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Old 11-10-19, 05:08 PM
  #7529  
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Originally Posted by JKohler View Post
Hereís my 1984 Trek 660 that was stripped down to bare metal for a clear powdercoat before building it back up with a Dura Ace group I found on CL for cheap.
Love it! What wheels are they?
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Old 11-10-19, 07:01 PM
  #7530  
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Originally Posted by ckter View Post
Love it! What wheels are they?

some random set I pulled off another bike. I actually donít remember.
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Old 11-10-19, 10:02 PM
  #7531  
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@JKohler that thing is perfect! All smoke and stealth. The 7900 Dura-Ace complements it just right. It also works so well.
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Old 11-10-19, 10:07 PM
  #7532  
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Here's my '89 Ironman. Dura Ace 7700 9 speed. I'm seriously thinking of putting my other wheelset on there.
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Old 11-11-19, 12:21 AM
  #7533  
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Originally Posted by texaspandj View Post
Here's my '89 Ironman. Dura Ace 7700 9 speed. I'm seriously thinking of putting my other wheelset on there.
Normal drop bars?! I didnt figure you had them.
Love that year's paint.
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Old 11-13-19, 07:16 PM
  #7534  
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86 Super Prestige
still making minor adjustments but it feels pretty good and weighs 20 lbs
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Old 11-21-19, 06:59 PM
  #7535  
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Originally Posted by aidanpringle View Post
90's Simoncini. Just found this thread but about to spend a few hours looking through it.


What are those bars? They look really nice on that, I'd be keen to try something like that on a few of my builds.
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Old 11-22-19, 10:22 AM
  #7536  
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Well I changed out the wheelset and now I'm content.
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Old 11-22-19, 04:32 PM
  #7537  
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Nice. Velocity rims?
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Old 11-29-19, 05:50 AM
  #7538  
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1996 Litespeed Classic

This came with 3x8 Ergos, but I figured Campy could go on Italian steel.

1996 Litespeed, W.David Lynskey signature. Came with garish yellow graphics, and a Kestrel EMS composite fork. Group was triple Campy Record/Racing T 8sp Ergo, which is better suited elsewhere. It had an Uno quill stem that looked like a hatchet, and a decent saddle on an American Classic post (if I remember), and yellow tires. Not one for yellow, I decided it all had to go. Interestingly enough, it also has eyelets for a rear rack. Now, much happier and much lighter with 6800 and a Bontrager RXL/TLR wheelset that will stay "tubed." Carbon post/bars/stem from Mao's entrepreneurial kids, Fizik Arione perch. Sub 18 lbs, and a nice Ti match for my Teledyne Titan, just 20 years older. Maybe I'll find a 2016 and keep that pattern going.



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Last edited by RobbieTunes; 11-29-19 at 05:58 AM.
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Old 11-29-19, 05:56 AM
  #7539  
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1996 Giant Cadex CFR-1

This bike came with ? but based on the headset, probably 6400/Ultegra STI. There was not a lot of wear/tear near the shifter mounts, so I figured STI. Came as a frame to me, and I tried 6800 on it, with a Ritchey carbon fork, and it was boring. I bought what I thought was a 54cm OEM Y-Foil, but it was a 59cm, so the group moved here. The Zipps are on their last legs, but are from the same era, so why not? Dura Ace 7700 group, including the seat post (DA-branded Easton). Cinelli steering. FSA crankset (Octalink) Chinese carbon saddle. 17.2 lbs.

If you look closely, you'll see a working Shimano Flight Deck cyclo.
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Last edited by RobbieTunes; 12-04-19 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 11-30-19, 10:31 PM
  #7540  
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Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
Organize a group buy?



Keep in mind, that's 11 unique custom parts (14 if you count the spacer kit) plus bearings that go into this conversion headset. I'm not saying it's inexpensive but relative to standard threadless adapter there's a lot more going on.
havent seen it asked or mentioned yet- is the headset cap specifically fitted to this or can any random cap be used?
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Old 12-01-19, 11:00 AM
  #7541  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
havent seen it asked or mentioned yet- is the headset cap specifically fitted to this or can any random cap be used?

On mine, the headset cap is fused to the steerer bolt. If I remove the cap, the bolt comes with it. The cone nut, if I recall, is sealed inside the steerer tube. Once you have the top part of the headset threaded down onto the fork's steerer,your headset work is basically "done."

Removing the cap/bolt does not seem remove the load on the headset. You can take it off to work on stem/spacer height and the bike is just fine, fork mounted and tight, Innicycle steerer sticking up like any other, but in this case, it's threaded onto the fork's steerer, so the fork won't slide out with the stem off. A "normal" threadless headset needs downward pressure on the stem/spacer stack, done with an expander nut or star nut, to adjust the headset. This seems to be adjusted once you get it threaded down onto the fork's steerer.

The cap is not a standard cap, so you can't swap it out. In fact, you can leave it on and swap in stems/spacers all you want. I recommend the Innicycle spacers. They're the best I've ever used, due to the inner o-ring that pretty much keeps them in place on the steerer. I've used other spacers, and unless you put some downward force on the stem when you mount it, they'll spin somewhat freely. I wanted my aftermarket spacers to be a bit more firmly in place, so I swapped in a normal cap and quill bolt, tighnted down a bit on the top of the stem, lined up my spacers so the labels were the way I wanted them, and tightened the stem in place. Then I pulled the temporary cap and bolt, and was done. I'm a little AR when using labeled spacers (on some bikes).

The stem's steerer clamp bolts are more than adequate to hold the stem and the bars firmly in place, which is what they do, anyway, on a normal threadless setup. On a normal setup, the star nut or expander nut is what keeps headset tension, but you lose that, and things go south, fast. This happened on my Ironman Carbon, where the force required to keep the threadless headset tight probably contributed to the head lugs cracking. I thought the headset was loose, blamed the star nut, replaced it with an expander bolt. Then I tightened it up to where it most likely cracked the head tube lugs and the carbon head tube, as well. Not seeing the crack, I tightened it up more, until it failed big in the middle of a ride. I made it home, and 30 minutes later the frame was in the dumpster.

I will likely not use another 1" threadless headset/fork on a C&V bike. If I go that route, I'll save the money on a fork/headset and just get an Innicycle adapter.
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Old 12-01-19, 11:01 AM
  #7542  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
havent seen it asked or mentioned yet- is the headset cap specifically fitted to this or can any random cap be used?
The headset cap is specific to this design. The cap functions much like the cap in a standard threadless adapter in that it carries all of the tension for the wedge that anchors the quill into the steerer tube. So whereas a normal threadless headset cap only preloads the bearings and can get away with an M6 screw, this cap uses an M8 stud threaded into the underside with a broached hex on top to tighten it.

If there's a specific look you want for the cap, let me know and I'll see what I can do. If you want to reuse something you own, that's not going to happen.
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Old 12-02-19, 12:15 PM
  #7543  
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Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
The headset cap is specific to this design. The cap functions much like the cap in a standard threadless adapter in that it carries all of the tension for the wedge that anchors the quill into the steerer tube. So whereas a normal threadless headset cap only preloads the bearings and can get away with an M6 screw, this cap uses an M8 stud threaded into the underside with a broached hex on top to tighten it.

If there's a specific look you want for the cap, let me know and I'll see what I can do. If you want to reuse something you own, that's not going to happen.
ok thanks for clarifying. It's what I figured, but wanted to be sure.
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Old 12-02-19, 10:29 PM
  #7544  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
ok thanks for clarifying. It's what I figured, but wanted to be sure.
Don't listen to him. He just invented it. I, on the other hand, have totally screwed one up.
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Old 12-03-19, 11:37 AM
  #7545  
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Gorgeous bikes fellas. Nothing better IMO, a combination of style and function. I hope to be able to add one of my own soon and will have a few questions before I undertake the transition.
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Old 12-03-19, 12:00 PM
  #7546  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
I will likely not use another 1" threadless headset/fork on a C&V bike. If I go that route, I'll save the money on a fork/headset and just get an Innicycle adapter.
I guess I shouldn't be surprised by this statement coming from you but it still feels really good to hear it
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Old 12-03-19, 06:53 PM
  #7547  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
I, on the other hand, have totally screwed one up.
This is a club I didn't really want to be a member of.
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Old 12-03-19, 08:10 PM
  #7548  
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Originally Posted by texaspandj View Post

Well I changed out the wheelset and now I'm content.
Look, a bike with real handlebars.
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