Blightybiker

Well, here is my little beauty! In 2012 I bought her for $120 at a Sharing Wheels community bike shop in Everett,WA.
She suits me very well indeed. Of course, like me, she was Made in England.

branko_76 

Thanks, I'm in the process of cleaning it up now.

Blightybiker

Hello all,
Having fixed a problem on my Raleigh Grand Prix, with the invaluable help of branko 76 and others I would like to ask for a bit of guidance with another issue on the same bike.

The cable for the Weinmann rear brake is difficult to adjust with the associated barrel adjuster and its lock nut. I assumed that the frame is threaded to accept the barrel adjuster but the latter just seems to turn freely without doing anything.
I have attached a photo of the arrangement on the bike.

This shows the barrel adjuster, sitting just above the brake.

Is the frame threaded there?
Do I need a new barrel adjuster?
Can anyone advise for an easier way of adjusting the cable tension?

branko_76 

The brake stand-off of the frame is not threaded. I use a 1/4" open-end wrench on the nut and small pliers on the barrel to adjust it.

branko_76 

Blightybiker , it looks like you have the original "suicide" brake levers. I always replace these with standard road levers that have quick-release and barrel adjusters. These are readily found on ebay, with patience, you can find a good deal.

Prowler 

Correct, the bridge is not threaded and that small adjuster is quite hard to turn with the cable tension on it. I use an Irwin Quick Grip Clamp, passed thru the spokes, to close the brake pads thus loosen the brake cable a bit. Turn the adjuster nut a bit to raise or lower, then remove the clamp to see how fine it all is. Once the tension is back on the cable the adjuster will not change.

Blightybiker

Thanks very much for your replies!

Regarding the brake levers, are you referring to the levers at the handlebar? I have never hear that term "suicide" brake lever and of course it's the kind of term that gets one's attention . Anything that makes the rear brake adjustment easier would be welcome! At the present time I feel like I need a third hand to get near to the optimum adjustment. I did think that prowler's suggestion, of using a clamp on the brake mechanism, was a good one.
If you could provide a web link to the standard levers you referred to that would help me from buying the wrong items.

Blightybiker

Thanks for your help Prowler!
I am glad its not just me who finds the brake adjustment difficult. When working on the task I felt like I need a "third hand" and that is exactly what your clamp provides . Eventually I did manage to make a satisfactory adjustment but it was accompanied by a lot of cursing and swearing from me...

branko_76 

This is the style of lever I look for to replace those crappy "safety (suicide) levers". These have a "quick release" block at the top of the lever allowing more clearance if you need to remove a wheel that is inflated. Some will have the original hoods, if not, the "Cane Creek" hoods are very nice. There are some levers that have barrell adjusters on top. I don't think you need them, the stock barrell adjusters on the Raleigh work just fine if the brakes are adjusted properly.

https://theeverydaycyclist.wordpress...inmann-levers/

Piff 

OH man, I had no idea they made non-aero brake levers with an integrated quick release! Does that brake lever model have a specific name or number?


edit: Huh, all I did was search "weinmann brake levers " in ebay, and a bunch of examples came up...that was easy

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1970s-WEINMANN-Brake-Levers-QUICK-RELEASE-Typical-Patina/283843305863?hash=item4216612187:g:vhQAAOSwNKlekLJH

Blightybiker

Thanks a lot for your help. This is unknown territory for me so I'll give your suggestion some consideration.

thumpism 

Not mine. This tall one with many upgrades has been on the local CL for many weeks now.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...107116103.html

jaimzb

I have a 1971 Raleigh Grand Prix that looks like it was hardly ridden in the past 49 years! It is a "Ladies" model, but is still quite nice. It is all original except for the tires and bar tape. It has the original white Bluemel's front and rear fenders, a neat vintage water bottle holder, and a vintage odometer.

Unfortunately, being new to the forum, I have to post 10 times before I can attach images. This post is one more down! Stay tuned, and I will upload pictures of the Grand Prix as soon as I can.

branko_76 

What derailleurs does it have?

jaimzb

It is currently hanging in my garage, so I would have to take a look, but I am quite sure it has the original Simplex derailleurs

jaimzb

I did my ten "newbie" posts, so I can now add photos! Here is my 1971 Raleigh Grand Prix Ladies Model. The new owner will be here in about an hour!

branko_76 

That's a realy nice looking bike, someone took good care if it these past 49 years. I like those early Raleighs, they didn't have the goofy "safety" levers that the later models were equipped with.

ZudeJammer

Just got this 1972 Grand Prix. Seems to be in good order but when I was cleaning the rear derailleur the lower pulley wheel just cracked apart and part of it fell off. Can I just replace it with a Sunrace Rear Derailleur Pulley, Sp850, 10T ? I road it around it it seems ok with the partial wheel.

ZudeJammer

Cleaned it up a bit and road around with the broken derailleur. It shifts totally fine but I am ordering a new wheel to bolt onto it and maybe new tires. The seatpost bolt is also an issue, I'll have to go to the bike shop with it one day to see what they have laying around.

branko_76 

Nice find ZudeJammer

I just replaced the pulleys on my Simplex Prestige derailleur and the hole in the bearing which the spindle/bolt goes through is about 6mm in diameter, so keep that in mind. I was lucky that I had a pair of Shimano pulleys with the same hole size.

branko_76 

ZudeJammer, keep this in mind before putting too many miles on it..... when I took apart my 1974 Grand Prix, this is what I found...

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...1-headset.html



https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ket-crank.html

ZudeJammer

oh man not too many bearings in the headset there lol

Charliekeet

Well, I’ll revive this one. This is a 1971 Gazelle-made Grand Prix:
Obviously pre-1973 due to the script decals, and has the made in Holland sticker- I didn’t know they had Gazelle manufacture them this early. Based on info on Kurt Kaminer’s site,
https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html
since the serial starts with 267... it’s a 1971.

It looks like I also have the “track hubs”, with nuts, instead of the QR Normandy hubs. What I’d LOVE to know is whether I’m better off buying new 27” tires and keeping these steel wheels, or whether o should try to squeeze in a 700c (126mm rear) set of Al wheels + tires I already have on hand. (That’d have the benefit of being lighter & better braking.)

I’d also like to know is whether there’s a way to tell if this has the Raleigh 26tpi bb or a standard 24tpi without pulling the cranks? (Cause I dont want to get into pulling cotter pins unless it’s “worth it”. I would just roll with the cottered set.)

Topless68

I've been on the hunt for a classic bike to repair, and use. I've found a 1976/7 Grand Prix (silver) in "ok" shape, and a mid-80s Super Grand Prix (i think, based on the decals) in unknown shape, but for cheaper. From the single picture in the ad, i can tell the paint is faded out to pink, needs bar tape, says new tires, brakes and shifting work well. Just wanted to get some insight into the better choice - foundationally.
The 70s GP has some paint issues, and needs new tires. Not sure on the frame material of either, if the SGP has better materials?

Trying to arrange an in-person visit to take a look at them, but any info you Gurus can provide is greatly appreciated. Sorry, I can't post pics yet....

ZudeJammer

Charliekeet I like your pedals better than the pointy ones on my white GP. Its funny we both have the same child seat bracket. Would look a lot cooler with the R nut, I swapped mine out for a QR bolt from a Pacific mtb but I can't post pictures since the bolt is too long and I have not trimmed it yet. Also, I ended up buying 2 Suntour pulley wheels and replacing both the Simplex ones that were disintegrating. The tires are all cracked up on mine, but when they do blow out or crack open I'm sure it would ride super nice on some 27x3/8" Sand Canyon tires.
Topless68 the material is what is referred to as "gas-pipe" or "stove-pipe". Check out the Raliegh catalogs for each year to determine which bike it is and the catalog has all the specs. Look at the 27" tire thread in this forum for tire price ideas. (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ce-thread.html)